 
[DML] Re: D Brakes
   
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[DML] Re: D Brakes
- From: "Lawrence Lormand" <lawrencesr@xxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Thu, 12 Apr 2007 04:10:56 -0000
Byron were the rubber Brake lines replaced when the Brake system was 
done? If you want you can call me or email me & we can set up a day 
to look it over to check the problem, I work with Houston, John & 
Dave & will gladly check this out to try to resolve it so you & your 
car are safe.
Lawrence
313-506-3786
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "byrondelorean" <celiambyron@...> 
wrote:
>
> Thanks for the couple replies I have recieved. All very interesting 
> as it does open up some other areas to look. I will have to give 
> Dave a call and run down the list of questions. 
> In a pnic stop the car will stop. There is no pulling in either 
> direction when you apply the barkes. I get a lot of brake pad 
> clatter when driving on bumpy pavement even with Rob Grady's spring 
> and cotter assembly. I never recall this especially when weI had a 
> gravel driveway growing up with the car. Always smooth and quiet, 
> soemtimes alittle brake squeal. The problem in a panic stop is that 
> that the second longer it takes me to get to the brake actually 
> doing anything may be the second I need to prevent an accident. 
This 
> is my main concern of course. 
> BC
> 
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@> 
> wrote:
> >
> > Believe it or not there are several things that can cause a low 
> > pedal. Most common is air in the system (an ineffective bench 
> bleed 
> > of a new master cylinder is not too uncommon). Next is a faulty 
> > master cylinder - and it goes on to more granular issues from 
> there. 
> > You shouldn't need any "pedal adjustment".
> > 
> > Since there is no "pumping up" to get pedal, this would imply 
> there 
> > is no air in the system - except possibly at the master cylinder. 
> > Also, I don't know how the brake system was bleed but, if a pedal 
> > bleed was performed the pedal bottomed-out the master cylinder by 
> > allowing the pedal to go all the way to the floor. The sealing 
> inside 
> > can get messed up when this is done - older MCs are always 
suspect 
> > for this - new MCs can get messed up too. I avoid pedal bleeds on 
> all 
> > my cars for this reason. If the MC is eliminated as a cause then 
I 
> > would suspect a faulty caliper or bad brake lines? How does the 
> car 
> > feel in a panic stop?
> > 
> > Harold McElraft - 3354
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "byrondelorean" <celiambyron@> 
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > I had a full restoration of my DeLorean at Dave Bauerle's 
garage 
> in 
> > > 2004. My DeLorean has been in my family since new. There is no 
> one 
> > > that knows this car better then myself. I cared for this (my 
> dad's 
> > > car) since I was 12 Years of age. I also just sold a DeLorean 
> that 
> > > came in 3rd PLace at the DCS Millenium Concourse this past 
year. 
> My 
> > > concern & Looming irritating deal is with my brakes. I remember 
> a 
> > > nice firm feeling when applying the brakes. Just like a 
> cadillac's 
> > > power assist brakes. Nice smooth transition, just when you 
> depress 
> > > the pedal it should go right into mode soft to firm. I told 
Dave 
> > > that the brakes did not feel right to me after I drove away. 
> Dave 
> > > purchase remanufactured complete brake system from Specialty 
> Auto. 
> > > My understanding was that my original brakes were to be 
> completely 
> > > overhauled and re-installed. Hind site may have forced the 
issue 
> of 
> > > either overhauling the existing or going with houston's set: 
But 
> > > before anyone gets bashed, there may be a simple solution. 
Pedal 
> > > adjustment? Here is the deal. The brakes consistantly depress 
> about 
> > > 4" inches before action takes place. My 3rd place concourse car 
> was 
> > > about 1/2", just the way I remembered it. Nice and firm. I have 
> no 
> > > ackward pumping of the brake and variable pedal height that 
> would 
> > > suggest the master cylinder. Having thought about the Master 
> > > Cylinder as suspect, I went ahead and bought a new master 
> cylinder 
> > > from Houston. Nothing changed. Vaccum was tested. perfect. 
Lines 
> > > were bled 3 times. The owner at Munk's Motors (Porsche VW BMW)  
> > > agrees that my brakes are not adiquate compred to the other 
> > > DeLorean's he's had the privelage to work on and drive. He does 
> not 
> > > know what is going on either. No leaks.
> > > John Hervey & Dave Bauerle spoke about the issue with no 
resolve 
> > for 
> > > me. Yet another year goes by. I want the brakes to work right, 
I 
> > > spent the money, have no problem to spend more when someone can 
> > tell 
> > > me what is needed. So for me the brake sytsem is suspect.
> > > 
> > > Any one that can solve this problem for me is my friend for 
> life. 
> > > Unfortunately Dave's shop is a 3 hour drive, so warranty issues 
> are 
> > > not an easy task. Dave did a remarkable job on my car. To date 
> it 
> > > drives and sound like new other than the brakes. However Dave 
is 
> > > only as good as the parts he recieves. I also had a faulty 
> battery 
> > > light caused by a connection form the alternator purchased at 
> > > Specialty. When I conduct business, a vendor and manufacturer 
> > > (myself) get together with the customer to solve problems. I 
> would 
> > > like to see this happen so I can feel as thou all that could be 
> > done 
> > > was done.
> > > Byron
> > >
> >
>
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