Re: [DML] Re: Dash Light Rheostat

[mike clemens <rmclemns@xxxxxxxxx>]

David,

You may be in for a surprise,  there is no winding in
the rheostat, that's what Marv was trying to say. 
Once you get into the rheostat, which is really a
variable potentiometer, you will find no wires. 
Everything is fixed to a plate, much like the fuel
sender, but on a much smaller scale.  I've had like 5
apart and had no "zero" success at making them work. 
That's why, and I speculate, DMCH will give you a $50
core value, you can't fix the inards, but the case is
valuable!!!

Mike



--- David Teitelbaum <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> You can, as Mark points out, just bypass the
> rehostat and connect all
> 3 wires together. You lose the ability to dim the
> dash lights. The
> dimmer doesn't work all that great anyway. When you
> dim the lights,
> just when you get to about the spot you like it, the
> lights go out.
> When I first got my car I thought the dimmer was
> bad. I bought a new
> one (not cheap) and when I put it in I was very
> disappointed that it
> did the exact same thing! One day I may rewind the
> element in it or
> try a different one.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Marc Levy
> <malevy_nj@...> wrote:
> >
> > Yes.  I have been running 1860 this way for 4
> years.
> > 
> > 
> > --- Marv Hein <marvhein@...> wrote:
> > > 
> > > A final question:  I found an old DML post that
> > > suggests the rheostat 
> > > c
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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