[DML] Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)

["stainlessilusion" <5n-@xxxxxxx>]

I just got my current ECU from DMCH just a few months ago, I'm 
pretty sure it isn't defective?is there any way to test the 
frequency valve part of it? How do I test the O2 sensor? When I 
changed the plate that mounts all the connections and coil on the 
engine bay bulkhead, I noticed wires cut and spliced into different 
wires [behind the plate inside the pontoon]; I noticed in particular 
one of the wires had a capacitor spliced in, was this a recall or 
update, or someone else's mess? It wasn't any of the wires from the 
FV plug though?-----Dani B. #5003


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxx> 
wrote:
> Dani,
> 
> is your O2 sensor ok ? you know how it can be tested, right ?
> 
> I mean - if the ECU gets no correct informations - how should
> it drive the FV correctly ?
> 
> When you push the full throttle switch the FV signal is
> set to a constant PWM to ensure a rich startup mixture (temp switch
> is parallel to it) and also a rich mixture when going at max 
speed/full
> gas.
> 
> Of course the ECU could be defect, too.
> Or a wire broken ?
> 
> Do you have the possibility to swap the ECU ?
> 
> Elvis
> 
> 
> 
> Betreff: [DML] Re: Can someone explain this? (distributor 
positioning)
> 
> 
> Okay finally an update; I just replaced each of these with brand 
new
> equipment: Fuel distributor, CPR/WUR, +4 plugs, 8.5mm wires, Bosch
> cap, Bosch rotor, and HP resistor. I've replaced with used
> equipment: ignition distributor. I've tested/cleaned: mechanical 
and
> vacuum advance, frequency valve and plug, grounds on both the left
> and right side of intake, ground in compartment behind driver's
> seat, cold start valve, and the injectors. The problem: my 
frequency
> valve will NOT run continuously no matter what position the CO is
> set to; it will not even run constant with the O2 sensor unplugged.
> Like this, the car will start up after a nights rest, but warm-up 
is
> rough with lots of black puffs of smoke and rough running until
> warm; once warm it will be sluggish accelerating, but runs smooth
> and gets me to where I need to go. The ONLY way to get the FV
> running constant is through the full throttle switch-I jumped the
> switch by putting a wire to both contacts of the full throttle
> switch; this is how I've been running the car. With the FV running
> constant, the car starts right up after sitting overnight with 
about
> 30 seconds of slight rough running-and has the acceleration it
> should. Since the FV runs when the switch is tripped it's obvious
> that it works and has good connections going to it. What I am
> wondering is why it won't run constant otherwise?Any ideas? -----
> Dani B. #5003







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