[DML] Re: Unsynchronized door locks

["Marty Galbreath" <marty@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Rich,

I had the same problems when I was installing my actuators. I had 
both doors up with the latches manually closed and all the panels 
removed. I could operate the switch on one side and see the switch 
on the other side moving only halfway into the same position.

I first suspected the lock module. I had rebuilt it using the great 
guide from the tech files, but I suspected it wasn't staying active 
long enough to move the mechanism completely into position. So I 
changed the large 1000mfd caps to 2200mfd. This resulted in a slight 
improvement, but sometimes they sill would not go all the way.

Then I lubricated everything in both ends of the door with Winzer 
Polylube I had bought from Specialtauto. I mean I really soaked 
everything in the locking chain. It started working perfectly 
everytime! Before I closed the door panels up, I speayed it all 
again.

No problems since. I would suggest after following Toby's advice to 
adjust the rods, try lubricating.

Marty Galbreath
3765
with most all of Toby's electronics :)














--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Toby Peterson" <tobyp@xxxx> wrote:
> Rich - I would start by carefully and completely marching through 
> the door lock adjustment procedure detailed in the shop manual 
> (P:02:11).  See also service bulletin ST-10-8.81 in the "Tech 
Files" 
> section.  It can be rather tedious, but it is the best place to 
get 
> back to factory lock settings.  This procedure focuses on getting 
> the door lock wiper switches (bell cranks) at the correct 
positions 
> so that they offer proper feedback information to the door lock 
> module.  Where the manual talks about moving the solenoids back 
and 
> forth to position the bell cranks (if necessary), you can shift 
the 
> position by moving the linkage rod on the actuator where it 
connects 
> to the forward lock rod.  A couple of things to look for - the 
> switches can get loose at the pivot point.  The bell crank rotates 
> around on a rivet.  I had to carefully "redrive" my rivets to 
> tighten the switches up so that they rotated smoothly and 
> consistently.  The next thing to look for is seriously bent lock 
> linkage rods.  If you have an excessive bend, the rod will flex 
too 
> much, and not move the mechanism enough.  Make sure that you are 
> getting very good and consistent electrical contact on the bell 
> crank wiper switches.  Chris Almy wrote a great piece on 
> troubleshooting the bell crank switch positions a while back on 
the 
> DML.  I don't have the message number, but it was a very nice 
write-
> up.  Let us know if you have any further questions on this.
> 
> Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
> DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
> www.delorean-parts.com    
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