Make sure your mechanical AND vacuum advance are operating. You should see them both give you around 40 degrees. With the 13 base that will be a total of (you guessed it) 53. Make sure the CPR aka warm-up regulator is hooked up correctly with it's vacuum hoses. On the car I am currently doing the Twin Turbo conversion I had a lot of trouble with cold start and warm-up. It turned out to be the thermal valve deep in the "valley of death" and an out-of-calibration CPR. It worked, it just did not act fast enough. Thr thermal valve also screwed up my vacuum advance. It is running much better now but I am still not happy with the advance (which is set up a little differently than stock for the turbo install). Again, vacuum leaks will affect the motor a lot, especially at idle and even more so when cold. Push the WOT switch while the motor is idling, you should hear the sound of the frequency valve change. It is subtle so listen carefully. Pulling the plug off the valve while the motor is idling should cause the motor to stall. David Teitelbaum vin 10757 --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "delorean6584" <carburateur100gaz@xxxx> wrote: > the timing is at 13 degree, and the frequency valve is buzzing,and is > there a quick way to verify the CPR im not too well equipped to check > fuel injection but the CPR is new (was changed by the PO 2-3 years ago To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/