[DML] Re: Replacing Brake Master Cylinder

["stainlessilusion" <5n-@xxxxxxx>]

I drove a flat head screw driver between the MC and be booster on both
sides of the studs, your MC won't be fused to the booster-you won't
bend or damage anything by doing this. -----Dani B. #5003




--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas@xxxx> wrote:
> 
> 
> Gently rap on the Master Cylinder on both top and bottom, until it 
> comes free. Taping it with a 3lb. sledge works wonders.
> 
> Bench bleeding is getting all the air out of the M/C itself, and 
> filling it with brake fluid. And you only need to do this, if the M/C 
> wasn't already bleed for you. Check with your vendor whom you purchased 
> it from, to see if it was, prior to being shipped out to you.
> 
> -Robert
> vin 6585 "X"
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "eremhcel" <dmcfive0@xxxx> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > I need to replace my master cylinder. I have the nuts removed that 
> hold 
> > it to the brake booster and the lines removed but it won't break free 
> > from the booster. Could I get a thin putty knife and try to separate 
> it 
> > or is there something else holding it on there? After reading Steve's 
> > posts about the brake parts he replaced and the responses he got 
> about 
> > bleeding, I thought I could just replace it and hook up the lines and 
> > then bleed them. But I saw some posts about bench bleeding the master 
> > cylinder. How do I do that? Thanks for any help.
> > Mike
> > 5623








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