AW: [DML] More problems found (was Piston rings + sleeves)

["Elvis Nocita" <elvisnocita@xxxxxx>]

Did you check your ignition ? is it set to 13 degrees at idle ?

Your symptoms sound like mine when I installed the distributor
wrong (one tooth off !) and had always about 30 degrees advance or more. As
long it was cold - it ran, but very bad.
Once it heated up I hardly could keep it running.
It took me two trys to be able to use the strobe while keeping
the car running. I coudn't see any timing mark the first time.
Second time I used my brain and saw, that it was way off.

30 minutes later (this bit.. was still hot !!!) she ran like a
charme.

So your vacuum advance is deactivated ? why ?
Get that fixed - I mean compared to swapping piston rings this
is like a children's birthday party or so.

For the idle - I don't think that the plates don't close completely (ok,
haven't seen it on your car yet) but if the switch isn't being pushed, the
idle ECU sets the idle PWM to a higher value - the port opens wider.(No, the
idle ECU is not deactivated when the switch isn't pushed, the switch just
reduces the desired idle speed.)

Maybe the spring is too weak (what I do not believe) or the switch
became harder to push down or it is set incorrectly. Anyway - using
two nuts under the switch will lift it up a few mm so that the screw
pushes closer to the end of the switch(metal plate) where it needs less
force.
Since I did this on mine the high idle problem is gone.

Wow, so many small problems and you wanted to rebuilt the engine because of
them ?

Elvis & 6548


Yes so I had a chance to check out a few things on my DeLorean today.
While I didn't get a chance to check out the compression yet- This is
what I come up with- first of all, when I push on the adjustment screw
for the idle speed sensor switch, the car idles lower-meaning that for
some reason the plates arent closing to give a slower idle. Bad
srpring? Secondly, when I take the vac line off of the distributor
advance and hold the accelerator at say 3-4 thousand RPMs, it is
smooth running, when I put the vac line back on, it is rough holding
any RPM. There is no vacuum in this line when the car is idling-which
is normal. Lastly, the CPR-there are 2 vacuum lines going to this, one
of which uses a delay valve, but both meet at a "T" fitting. I pulled
the main line off the "T" where it comes from underneith the manifold
and there is no vacuum at all, is this supposed to be? I checked this
out while the engine was both cold and warm. The vacuum line coming
from the back of the intake that goes to the barbs really isn't that
powerful-I'm not sure if this is normal or not. What really gets me is
the distributor advance deactivated-why would it clear up the running
of the engine-something wrong inside the distributor? I've been
driving this car for years with a bad advance unit and once I put one
in I've had this rough, vibrating running engine at any RPM. When the
engine is cold it runs extremely smooth, once warm is when I get all
the problems and hard starting. Likely my ported vac switch is bad??
Thanks for the help guys -----Dani B. #5003








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