RE: [DML] Re: Non Start Problem - Transmission Related?

[Thomas Mc Auley <dmc4087@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

I had the same problems as you Shannon. I would have to shake the shifter while in neutral or park sometimes to get it to start. I never got round to solving that problem, it seemed to go away by itself!
Then however, I had another problem where the car would not start, or even crank, and shaking the shifter would not work. I eventually narrowed it down to the starter solenoid after checking relays, fuses, wiring etc. I took it out, dismantled it and automatically recoqnised it was fried.
 
Thomas 
Vin 4087 (now a manual, had enough of autos)

DMC Joe <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx> wrote:


Shannon,

It looks like I was writing this response while David sent his reply, so I
will just add this information to his.

Fuse #13 fuse has no effect on the motor starter circuit. The only item in
the auto transmission electrical circuit that will prevent the starter
circuit from activating is the neutral safety switch. I know of no problems
with this switch but you could have a connection problem or a defective
start inhibit relay. Considering that you are having other transmission
problems you might want to insure that your transmission electrical harness
is not damaged and that all connections are secure. If the harness looks OK
proceed to the following.

Here is the first test you can perform when you have the "no start"
condition. 

You will need an electrical continuity checker or test device with a
continuity test function. Remove the START INHIBIT RELAY 3/7/4 part #106269
(relay group/back row 2nd from left next to the red relay). Locate blade #86
on the bottom of the relay, locate the corresponding blade receptacle at the
relay socket. Check for continuity between the socket connector and ground.
While you are there insure that the socket connector is secure and has not
been dislodged. If there in no continuity (no ground) the relay will not
activate and the engine will not start. While you are inspecting the relay
socket insure that all of the connector blades are secure and making contact
with the relay blades. 

Here is additional reference information.
Technical Information Manual: P-246 
Workshop Manual M:02:04, M:07:02
Parts Manual 3/7/0, 3/7/4, 4/5/6
Service Bulletin ST-16-10/81

DMC Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: David Teitelbaum [mailto:jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx] 
Sent: Sunday, January 09, 2005 12:45 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Re: Non Start Problem - Transmission Related?

On an automatic the start inhibit relay is used to prevent starting the car
in gear. Temporaraly I would disable the circuit, jumping it out and see if
the trouble goes away. There are many other possablities, like a bad starter
solenoid, bad conections in the start circuit, etc so ruling out the inhibit
circuit is a good place to start. Also inspect the wiring going to the shift
computer. It can get burnt on the hot exhaust pipes if not routed and
secured correctly.
That can cause the fuse to blow and other problems like not-start.
Fuses do not "wear out". They open from vibration or if a current that is
large enough to melt the link is drawn through it. Fuses are generally
oversized so they do not get damaged from an overcurrent of a short
duration. If the fuse blows it is an indication of a problem in the wiring
or a component.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "birdwell77095" wrote:
> 
> 
> Since I've had the car, I've had situations in which the car will not 
> start. The motor won't turn over. Nothing happens when I turn the key. 
> The lights and all the battery operated items work fine. In some cases 
> I can push the car a few few or move the automatic shifter a few times 
> then the car will start. Yesterday I had the same problem.
> I played with the shifter and tried moving the car back and forth but 
> it still wouldn't start. So I played with the fuses and lot of















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