Re: [DML] Digest Number 1462

["BDM" <bmims1@xxxx>]

Do not affix the mirror to the windscreen without an expansion pad! I know
because when a "shade tree" replaced my windscreen several years ago he
merely glued the old mirror to the new glass. Result? It cracked of
course! The pad serves as an expansion joint allowing for hot and cold
expansion compensating for different media characteristics. So just install
the thing with the pad and you should be alright. Good luck

Bobby Mims
Tyler, Texas




> I am getting ready to affix a new mirror button to my new DMC
windshield. The glass arrived with a small foam pad that warns that I
should use it when I affix the new button. The rest of the
rearward-looking world just sticks the thing directly to the glass
with adhesive made for the purpose. Is there a dark secret about DMC
glass we should know about? The pad is not self-adhesive and can't be
used to actually stick the button on. Has anyone actually used one of
these? I would appreciate someone shedding some light on the best way
of affixing a mirror to the windshield.
> Thanks,
> Rustproof
> Vin# 1559


-------Original Message-------

From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Monday, April 14, 2003 05:54:36 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Digest Number 1462

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxx

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com

To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo
com/group/dmcnews
------------------------------------------------------------------------

There are 25 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

1. Performance mods
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113@xxxx>
2. Re: Rear View Mirror Pad
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxx>
3. Northern Virginia Sighting
From: wmack <wmack@xxxx>
4. Re: For Sale
From: kKoncelik@xxxx
5. Re: Rear View Mirror Pad
From: "ensfield" <ensfield@xxxx>
6. interior question
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113@xxxx>
7. column controls
From: "ferdaniraphael" <raphael.ferdani@xxxx>
8. Re: interior question
From: kKoncelik@xxxx
9. Re: Re: Rear View Mirror Pad
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxx>
10. Re: interior question
From: Louie G <louie@xxxx>
11. Re: interior question
From: "Adam" <acprice1@xxxx>
12. Re: Performance mods
From: Louie G <louie@xxxx>
13. Lambda sensor removal...
From: "Adam" <acprice1@xxxx>
14. RE: interior question
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxx>
15. Re: interior question
From: "James LaLonde" <deloreandmcxii@xxxx>
16. phase 1 engine question
From: "Adam" <acprice1@xxxx>
17. Re: Performance mods
From: Pete Berveiler <zamphyr2000@xxxx>
18. Re: Performance mods
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxx>
19. Re: Lambda sensor removal...
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxx>
20. Delorean Midatlantic Spring Social
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxx>
21. Re: Lambda sensor removal...
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxx>
22. Re: Performance mods
From: Pete Berveiler <zamphyr2000@xxxx>
23. Re: Performance mods
From: "B Benson" <delornut@xxxx>
24. Re: Lambda sensor removal...
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx>
25. Re: Performance mods
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxx>


________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 00:49:26 -0000
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113@xxxx>
Subject: Performance mods

Does any know if porting/polishing the intake system yields any 
gains to its performance?? Pros/Cons Also, is the DMC HOUSTON 
engine compatible with the twin turbos?? would intercoolers be a 
necessity?? and yes i know the $$$$ would be unreasonable....than you




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 2
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 01:09:14 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxx>
Subject: Re: Rear View Mirror Pad

The story is if you glue the mirror directly to the windscreen it will
crack it. You are supposed to glue the pad to the mirror and then to
the windscreen. Get in touch with the vender you bought the windscreen
from and they can give you all of the details.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Rustproof" <Rustproof@xxxx> wrote:
> I am getting ready to affix a new mirror button to my new DMC
windshield. The glass arrived with a small foam pad that warns that I
should use it when I affix the new button. The rest of the
rearward-looking world just sticks the thing directly to the glass
with adhesive made for the purpose. Is there a dark secret about DMC
glass we should know about? The pad is not self-adhesive and can't be
used to actually stick the button on. Has anyone actually used one of
these? I would appreciate someone shedding some light on the best way
of affixing a mirror to the windshield.
> Thanks,
> Rustproof
> Vin# 1559
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 3
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 21:20:15 -0400
From: wmack <wmack@xxxx>
Subject: Northern Virginia Sighting

My sister saw a Delorean parked in front of the 7-11 in Lovettsville,
Virginia 
last week. Thats my territory, and I have never seen another around. If that

person is on the list could you please email me.

Thanks
Willie Mack
Vin 5043




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 4
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 21:58:00 EDT
From: kKoncelik@xxxx
Subject: Re: For Sale

It is sold already 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2003 21:39:08 -0400
From: "ensfield" <ensfield@xxxx>
Subject: Re: Rear View Mirror Pad

I used the foam pad that came with my new windshield from DMCH..Mirror has
stayed on for 2 years...Call Warren with questions and I'm sure he'll help..
Good luck,
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rustproof" <Rustproof@xxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, April 13, 2003 7:17 PM
Subject: [DML] Rear View Mirror Pad


> I am getting ready to affix a new mirror button to my new DMC windshield.
The glass arrived with a small foam pad that warns that I should use it when
I affix the new button. The rest of the rearward-looking world just sticks
the thing directly to the glass with adhesive made for the purpose. Is there
a dark secret about DMC glass we should know about? The pad is not
self-adhesive and can't be used to actually stick the button on. Has anyone
actually used one of these? I would appreciate someone shedding some light
on the best way of affixing a mirror to the windshield.
> Thanks,
> Rustproof
> Vin# 1559
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxx
>
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
www.dmcnews.com
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 6
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 03:03:33 -0000
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113@xxxx>
Subject: interior question

Did some black interior cars come with black dash, console and seats 
but grey carpets and headliners???? Im looking into buying a car 
that is superb in condition, but this issue has me second 
guessing....thanx guys




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 7
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 12:03:42 -0000
From: "ferdaniraphael" <raphael.ferdani@xxxx>
Subject: column controls

Hello
I added a photo of the interior of a project car I found ( VIN717 
folder ). The steering column control looks different from other 
cars. Since it's a low-vin, anyone can tell me if it's original, or 
replacement ?
Thanks :-)
Raphael




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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 09:16:58 EDT
From: kKoncelik@xxxx
Subject: Re: interior question

Yes, some cars came with the Black seats and dash and light gray carpet.

I have one and it is original. My VIN is 16684. The ones I have seen all 
have been later VIN cars and probably were just assembled using whatever 
parts were available. 

I have a friend of mine also that has one just like it so no its not 
necessarily been altered.
If its an 81 or early 82 then I might look into it a bit more. I don't know 
when they started this so maybe someone has that answer. I surely would like

to know

Ken
DeLoreancarshow.com


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 9
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 15:45:45 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Rear View Mirror Pad

John Hervey probably still has a supply of the double-sided mirror pads 
I gave him in Memphis last year. The stick the mirror directly to the 
windscreen. Make sure all evidence of any other type of pad is removed 
on both surfaces before you start, and clean both areas with methylates 
spirits (denatured alcohol iin the US)

Lots of cars over here have the mirror stuck to the windscreen. The 
adhesive pads are commonly available.

Martin

David Teitelbaum wrote:

>The story is if you glue the mirror directly to the windscreen it will
>crack it. You are supposed to glue the pad to the mirror and then to
>the windscreen. Get in touch with the vender you bought the windscreen
>from and they can give you all of the details.
>David Teitelbaum
>vin 10757
> 
>





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Message: 10
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 08:55:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: Louie G <louie@xxxx>
Subject: Re: interior question

The car you're describing is an '83. A lot of them were made this way... I
believe because they simply ran out of dark grey carpets and such. Some
people call this the "two tone" or "dual color" interior. I really like this
setup... it's got the handsome, professional looks of the black leather, but
without all of the darkness :-).

Louie Golden
VIN 10115 Sanford, NC

_____________________________________________________________
Don't be left out! Register today for the 2003 DMC Open House Event at
http://www.delorean.com/2003event.asp

_____________________________________________________________
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________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 11
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 14:10:39 -0000
From: "Adam" <acprice1@xxxx>
Subject: Re: interior question

My car is like this. As far as I know this is factory, when they 
say "black interior", everything is black but the carpets and 
headliners. I have an 83 if it makes a difference.

Adam 16683


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113@xxxx> 
wrote:
> Did some black interior cars come with black dash, console and 
seats 
> but grey carpets and headliners???? Im looking into buying a car 
> that is superb in condition, but this issue has me second 
> guessing....thanx guys




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 12
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 09:02:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: Louie G <louie@xxxx>
Subject: Re: Performance mods

I believe the Houston setup gets the largest portion of their power via the
exhaust system. The remainder would come from things like a hotter cam. So
if this is the case, a turbo setup and the DMC setup really couldn't work in
tandem. I believe (I may be mistaken) that turbo's couldn't have as high of
a lift rate cam as say, the Houston set up. The turbo system also wouldn't
be compatible with the exhaust system, as I believe the delorean setups are
exhaust driven, and require a waste gate. This is all just my (un)educated
guess though :-).

Louie Golden
VIN 10115 Sanford, NC
--- "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113@xxxx> wrote:
Also, is the DMC HOUSTON engine compatible with the twin turbos?? would
intercoolers be a necessity?? and yes i know the $$$$ would be unreasonable.
..thank you

_____________________________________________________________
Don't be left out! Register today for the 2003 DMC Open House Event at
http://www.delorean.com/2003event.asp

_____________________________________________________________
Select your own custom email address for FREE! Get you@xxxx w/No
Ads, 6MB, POP & more! http://www.everyone.net/selectmail?campaign=tag



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 13
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 16:04:04 -0000
From: "Adam" <acprice1@xxxx>
Subject: Lambda sensor removal...

This weekend I tried to perform the lambda sensor removal/bypass as 
explained in the DMCnews tech section in the article by Knut. Well I 
hooked up the voltmeter, but the numbers constantly fluctuate and 
they never stabilize enough to make any accurate adjustments. My car 
has idled crazy ever since I've owned it. Could this be a bad sensor?

Also, what exactly is the circuit operation with the lambda sensor 
unhooked? The computer will recieve no signal, so what will the 
frequency valve do, and with the lambda gone, is the freq valve 
necessary?

thanks,
Adam 16683




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Message: 14
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 10:17:47 -0400
From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxx>
Subject: RE: interior question

Yes. You just described my car.

I own a black car. The headliner is indeed gray and they carpet is gray as
well. The seats, dash, binnacle, doors, center console, and floor mats are
all black.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: spaceace3113 [mailto:spaceace3113@xxxx]
> Sent: Sunday, April 13, 2003 11:04 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] interior question
> 
> Did some black interior cars come with black dash, console and seats
> but grey carpets and headliners???? Im looking into buying a car
> that is superb in condition, but this issue has me second
> guessing....thanx guys
> 
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderators@xxxx
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see
> www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 15
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 17:09:38 -0000
From: "James LaLonde" <deloreandmcxii@xxxx>
Subject: Re: interior question

All the black interior have grey headliners and grey carpets. They 
are darker than the Grey interior's, but are still MUCH lighter than 
the seats and dash. I've seen headliners recovered in black.. and it 
looks terrible in my opinion. If you want black carpet get the black 
mats... they look GREAT on either color interior.

I've always thought -- a two tone with the dash, armrests, center 
console, and outer lines seats done black but the upper door panel, 
pillars, and inner section of the seats done grey, with the lighter 
grey carpets and headliners -- would look awesome.
But seeing as how my absolute LEAST favorite things to do on the D is 
taking apart the interior.... I'm not gonna be the one to do it.

james
04009




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________________________________________________________________________

Message: 16
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 14:15:24 -0000
From: "Adam" <acprice1@xxxx>
Subject: phase 1 engine question

Do the phase 1 engines from DMC Houston use the Lamba system at all? 

Adam 16683




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________________________________________________________________________

Message: 17
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 11:59:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: Pete Berveiler <zamphyr2000@xxxx>
Subject: Re: Performance mods

The DMC Stage I engine includes an increased-flow
mandrel bend exhaust replacement AND hotter cams. The
old Stage II (no longer in the works) I BELIEVE (dont
quote me - trying to remember back to 1999) were
supposed to be a new inlet manifold and pleneum, new
pistons and sleeves to get it up to about 2.98L and a
head swap from the Renault 3.0i series. Then there
was supposed to be a stage III, including new
EMS/Direct fire ignition and modern EFI, fuel rails,
distribution system, etc. if I remember correctly. I
think the Stage I was going to go up from 130 HP to
the 190-200HP range(is currently 197HP), Stage I & II
was SUPPOSED to get up to 240-250HP and Stage I, II &
III would get it up to 290-300HP, which I believe is
near the is the theoretical maximum for a Naturally
Aspirated engine (roughly 1HP/10ml of block
displacement).

The key is that DMCH is NOT proponent of turbocharging
power-ups (still quoted on their web site). The mods
are not completely exclusive, as the port and polish,
and exhaust mods should be ammenable to turbocharging,
but the hot cam would not.

I believe the 350-400 HP range is attainable with
turbocharging or supercharging, but not with the DMCH
mods. It will require serious high-dollar performance
mods (custom intake manifolds, exhaust capable of
moving that much air, new concave pistons, larger air
inlet system, full distributorless EMS and new more
powerful ignition system, High-flow EFI system, and
different catalytic converters to be street legal)
that you can drop nitrous on as well to go above
400HP.

When I priced this last year, it was about an $18K
engine mod and the only thing stock about it was the
block. I had the money back then, but didnt want to
have to sink another 4K into tranny mods so my auto
could handle that much HP and about 340 ft-lb of
torque (now I'm broke again, so in retrospect it was a
good move hehe).

Pete


--- Louie G <louie@xxxx> wrote:
> I believe the Houston setup gets the largest portion
> of their power via the exhaust system. The remainder
> would come from things like a hotter cam. So if this
> is the case, a turbo setup and the DMC setup really
> couldn't work in tandem. I believe (I may be
> mistaken) that turbo's couldn't have as high of a
> lift rate cam as say, the Houston set up. The turbo
> system also wouldn't be compatible with the exhaust
> system, as I believe the delorean setups are exhaust
> driven, and require a waste gate. This is all just
> my (un)educated guess though :-).
> 
> Louie Golden
> VIN 10115 Sanford, NC
> --- "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113@xxxx> wrote:
> Also, is the DMC HOUSTON engine compatible with the
> twin turbos?? would intercoolers be a necessity??
> and yes i know the $$$$ would be
> unreasonable....thank you
> 
>
_____________________________________________________________
> Don't be left out! Register today for the 2003 DMC
> Open House Event at
> http://www.delorean.com/2003event.asp
> 
>
_____________________________________________________________
> Select your own custom email address for FREE! Get
> you@xxxx w/No Ads, 6MB, POP & more!
> http://www.everyone.net/selectmail?campaign=tag
> 
> 
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderators@xxxx
> 
> For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for
> sale see www.dmcnews.com
> 
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
> 
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ 
> 
> 


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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 20:02:22 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxx>
Subject: Re: Performance mods

The DMC Houston engine has been tuned and set up to work as a normally 
aspirated engine. The Island Twin Turbo is a bolt-on kit to start with, 
and the Houston engine is NOT DESIGNED FOR IT.

Any turbo is driven off the exhaust, and actually the Island kit puts 
them exactly where they should be - right on the manifolds.

Martin

Louie G wrote:

>I believe the Houston setup gets the largest portion of their power via the
exhaust system. The remainder would come from things like a hotter cam. So
if this is the case, a turbo setup and the DMC setup really couldn't work in
tandem. I believe (I may be mistaken) that turbo's couldn't have as high of
a lift rate cam as say, the Houston set up. The turbo system also wouldn't
be compatible with the exhaust system, as I believe the delorean setups are
exhaust driven, and require a waste gate. This is all just my (un)educated
guess though :-).
>
>Louie Golden
>VIN 10115 Sanford, NC
>





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 19
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 19:35:13 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxx>
Subject: Re: Lambda sensor removal...

There are many other things to check before you go after the O2 
sensor. There can be NO vacuum leaks. If it has been a long time do a 
COMPLETE tune-up with CORRECT parts. If it's been 30,000 miles since 
the last time (or more!) check the valve adjustments. Have the fuel 
injectors cleaned and tested. Make sure the 3 brass screws are closed 
and the idle motor and micro are working. If the frequency valve is 
buzzing then the O2 sensor is probably good enough for idling. For a 
complete description of the Lambda circuit and diagnostic procedures 
refer to the Workshop Manual. To adjust the mixture with a DWELL meter 
it has to be an old analog (needle) type. The newer digital display 
type meters won't be able to read the fluctuating voltage. Don't try 
to fix the idle by twiddling the mixture screw. Just make sure there 
is a plug in the housing over it and it isn't leaking. A properly 
set-up and operating PRV won't run right without the lambda system, it 
adds a little fuel to make the air-fuel ratio correct. With a dead O2 
sensor the Lambda will revert (fallback) to a fixed value. The big 
symptom would be a loss of power and terrible acceleration. It is even 
worse if the Lambda system is dead completely.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Adam" <acprice1@xxxx> wrote:
> This weekend I tried to perform the lambda sensor removal/bypass as 
> explained in the DMCnews tech section in the article by Knut. Well I 
> hooked up the voltmeter, but the numbers constantly fluctuate and 
> they never stabilize enough to make any accurate adjustments. My car 
> has idled crazy ever since I've owned it. Could this be a bad 
sensor?
> 
> Also, what exactly is the circuit operation with the lambda sensor 
> unhooked? The computer will recieve no signal, so what will the 
> frequency valve do, and with the lambda gone, is the freq valve 
> necessary?
> 
> thanks,
> Adam 16683




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 20
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 19:44:23 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxx>
Subject: Delorean Midatlantic Spring Social

Just a reminder that the Spring Social is fast approaching. The 
weather seems to have finally turned spring-like so we are hoping for 
a large turn-out. You might still be able to get a room at the hotel 
if you haven't already made a reservation. From my list I see about 23 
people with confirmed reservations! Don't forget to bring at least 1 
family band radio for the Tour. It should have channel 12 in it, 
that's the one we commonly use. For any locals in the area nearby we 
will be having an informal dinner Friday evening in the area so if you 
are interested in comming e-mail me for directions.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 21
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 20:03:42 -0000
From: "Harold McElraft" <hmcelraft@xxxx>
Subject: Re: Lambda sensor removal...

The Lambda and Idle are two different systems. You cannot remove the 
lambda and successfully get an accurate air-fuel ratio across the 
RPM band without going to another injection setup. Bosch K-Jetronic 
has to have the lambda to work. 

Installing another idle system requires some different pieces to get 
a dash pot effect and other things. In the long run you are probably 
better off to stay OEM unless you have the background and knowledge 
to do the modifications. 

Most chronic idle problems that I have seen are caused by vacuum 
leaks. The most often missed leak is at the tube going into the fuel 
distributor housing from the idle motor.

Harold McElraft - 3354


- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Adam" <acprice1@xxxx> wrote:
> This weekend I tried to perform the lambda sensor removal/bypass 
as 
> explained in the DMCnews tech section in the article by Knut. Well 
I 
> hooked up the voltmeter, but the numbers constantly fluctuate and 
> they never stabilize enough to make any accurate adjustments. My 
car 
> has idled crazy ever since I've owned it. Could this be a bad 
sensor?
> 
> Also, what exactly is the circuit operation with the lambda sensor 
> unhooked? The computer will recieve no signal, so what will the 
> frequency valve do, and with the lambda gone, is the freq valve 
> necessary?
> 
> thanks,
> Adam 16683




________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 22
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 13:19:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Pete Berveiler <zamphyr2000@xxxx>
Subject: Re: Performance mods

I believe there are belt-drive turbochargers as well
as exhaust drive. Intercooler is key to performance,
as heat generated in compression robs the power
benefit of the compressed air.

Am I wrong there?

Pete


--- Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxx> wrote:
> The DMC Houston engine has been tuned and set up to
> work as a normally 
> aspirated engine. The Island Twin Turbo is a bolt-on
> kit to start with, 
> and the Houston engine is NOT DESIGNED FOR IT.
> 
> Any turbo is driven off the exhaust, and actually
> the Island kit puts 
> them exactly where they should be - right on the
> manifolds.
> 
[moderator snip]



________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 23
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 16:27:48 -0500
From: "B Benson" <delornut@xxxx>
Subject: Re: Performance mods

One has to be careful with things like porting and polishing when using a
turbo. Velocity plays an equal role with overall exhaust flow in regards to
producing a desired level of boost with a minimum of lag. I won't say that
things can't be improved on by 'P & P ing' but only a lot of experiance with
a particular engine will tell you how much is too much.

Bruce Benson

> The key is that DMCH is NOT proponent of turbocharging
> power-ups (still quoted on their web site). The mods
> are not completely exclusive, as the port and polish,
> and exhaust mods should be ammenable to turbocharging,
> but the hot cam would not.
> Pete





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 24
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 21:44:44 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx>
Subject: Re: Lambda sensor removal...

Can't speak directly to Lamda because I don't have it, but I'm
wondering why frequency valve itself can't be removed from fuel loop.
Would cap lower chamber with a bolt and run upper chamber directly to
return line under pontoon. Is not permanent mod, so what could it hurt
to try? Fuel mixture would probably have to be adjusted (leaned?) to
compensate for inactive lower chamber.

Did anyone ever measure size of O2 probe vs overall size of Y pipe?
Seem to remember it restricts A LOT. 

Re: crazy idle -- is engine choking itself then rev'ing back up?
(possible vacuum leak). Does it stumble in middle of otherwise smooth
idle? (misfire, probably ignition spark). Is idle consistently smooth
but varying RPM's? (problem with automatic idle system?). What exactly
are symptoms?

Bill Robertson
#5939 (blissfully free of onboard electronics except a dying Craig
in-dash stereo).

>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Adam" <acprice1@xxxx> wrote:
> This weekend I tried to perform the lambda sensor removal/bypass as 
> explained in the DMCnews tech section in the article by Knut. Well I 
> hooked up the voltmeter, but the numbers constantly fluctuate and 
> they never stabilize enough to make any accurate adjustments. My car 
> has idled crazy ever since I've owned it. Could this be a bad sensor?
> 
> Also, what exactly is the circuit operation with the lambda sensor 
> unhooked? The computer will recieve no signal, so what will the 
> frequency valve do, and with the lambda gone, is the freq valve 
> necessary?
> 
> thanks,
> Adam 16683




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Message: 25
Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2003 23:07:09 +0100
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxx>
Subject: Re: Performance mods

Pete Berveiler wrote:

>I believe the 350-400 HP range is attainable with
>turbocharging or supercharging, but not with the DMCH
>mods. It will require serious high-dollar performance
>mods (custom intake manifolds, exhaust capable of
>moving that much air, new concave pistons, larger air
>inlet system, full distributorless EMS and new more
>powerful ignition system, High-flow EFI system, and
>different catalytic converters to be street legal)
>that you can drop nitrous on as well to go above
>400HP.
> 
>
It's really funny how people keep on writing things like this - not to 
have a dig at what Peter's written - he's on the money. What it comes 
down to is the odd-fire crank in the DeLorean engine is simply not 
suitable for turbocharging, and that is only at the top of a very long 
list of problems with turbocharging this engine.

Why else would the Renault 25 Turbo have such a massively re-engineered 
engine? The Renault Alpine A610 produces in excess of 400hp reliably 
from a 2.5l PRV-6 that mates to the exact same gearbox as the DeLorean. 
The engine is an enhanced and intercooled version of that in the R25 
Turbo, which can be found in scrapyards all over europe.

Why do people keep trying to reinvent the wheel with an enhanced 
original DMC PRV when so many are available just begging to be dropped 
in, have an exhaust made to fit, and bingo-splingo, a 400hp capable PRV 
in the back of your D?

The DMCH engine is about as good as you'll get without spending serious 
money on rebuilding and reengineering a stock engine.

Oh, and the 3.0l PRV used in cars like the Renault Espace and Citroen 
Xantia up until only a few short years ago can be tuned (at some 
expense) to 300-350hp. It will bolt right in.

Martin
#1458
#4426




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