--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "K. Creason" <dmc4687@xxxx> wrote: > Hey- > I was tightening my body-frame bolts (and boy did they need it) and pulled > the air inlet valve off to get to that one bolt in the pontoon. > > I noticed that it was still mostly closed allowing hot air even though it > was 70ish. > I then noticed that it didn't moved when I heated it up. <SNIP> I had a simular problem with mine. As you can see, there is the one adjustment bolt on the front that you can turn. I placed the vavle in the fridge for about an hour, and then turned it to close the vavle, but not even completely. I found that after warming up, the valve flap was still only opening up half way. My solution: I totally dumped the the vavle and heat stove. It was also about this time that I noticed that the intake diameter of the inlet on the air box is far larger than that on the intake vent. I now have the intake hose pulling in air from below the rocker cover, inside the engine comparment, but pointed away from the radiator. I can tell you that this has allowed the engine to breath MUCH easier, and it sounds a bit better. There are also a couple of things to consider about removing the valve. You can connect the fresh air intake hose directly to the intake, but this is not good in cold weather. I've noticed that the engine was way too sluggish, and noticed a bit of oil consumption. Allowing the intake hose to pull air from inside the engine compartment removed these problems, as the engine compartment warms up very quickly. Plus performance isn't really sacrificed like it would be on other cars. The engine cover is vented, nor is the radiator in the same compartment, so the air doesn't get that hot. However, it is a problem in the rain. You hit water, and the compartment will steam up. Sucking steam into an engine is not something that I'm too happy about, but if you never allow water to hit the motor when it's hot, then I wouldn't worry too much about it. -Robert vin 6585 "X"