Control Pressure Regulator/Twin Turbos [long]
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Control Pressure Regulator/Twin Turbos [long]
- From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxx>
- Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 10:18:54 +0000
Hi All,
Just for those who haven't read my posts before: A good mate (Rich) and
I bought two non-running D's and imported them back to England. Mine's
#1458, a stock 5-speed, and has been running for several months now.
Rich's is #2727, an Island twin automatic, and was mechanically in worse
shape (cosmetically better).
In attempting to solve a problem with mine when we first got it going,
several bits were swapped between the cars. All were swapped back EXCEPT
the Control Pressure Regulator. I drove about 600 miles with Rich's CPR
in my D, and it progresively got more and more difficult to start, and
ran more and more roughly while warming up. Until one evening when the
car wouldn't start at all. It wouldn't even fire on a single cylinder.
On examination, the air flow sensor was extremely stiff to depress. When
I loosened the Control Pressure line (the one from the top of the
metering head to the CPR), the metering head plunger moved freely again
and the air flow sensor loosened up (petrol leaked from the loosened
line unsurprisingly). I took off Rich's CPR and swapped mine back. My
car started first time and has run fine ever since. The Air flow sensor
is considerably lighter to depress (engine off).
:On Saturday, we got around to attempting to start #2727 for the first
time. Knowing there was something up with the CPR I took it apart. It
was completely clean inside. I blew through both ports with the shop
air-hose and if there was a blockage, it's gone now! (I could feel air
passing through). I also undid those four small flat-head screws and
removed and cleaned the components underneath. (two little plates and a
funny little cap in between). I then reassembled everything. As soon as
the pump got petrol into the CPR, the air flow sensor went really stiff
again.
I have no idea how this device works, but if anyone has any
hard-and-fast solution for this apparent blockage, please let us know!
Secondly, On #2727's engine, there's a vacuum hose which apparently has
no business being where it is. Dave Stragand very kindly supplied us
with the Island documentation, and there's nothing in it about this
particular hose. He confirmed there's no such hose on his engine.You can
see it in this picture
http://www.delorean.co.uk/pictures/DCP02382.JPG
It's the the right of the centre of the picture, and comes out of the
left hand manifold. This hose goes off into a T-piece and one of the
connecting hoses disappears off into the frame at the far left of the
engine bay (around the same place as the A/C hoses). The other hose is
hanging off it loosely. There's about enough length to get it to the
charcoal cannister but no apparent port or connection for it. Anyone any
ideas? I've blocked it with a screw for now. What does the charcoal
cannister do? Currently all three hoses on the diagram are connected.
Lastly, in talking to Dave Stragand, and reading up as much as I can
about turbocharging (including picking the brains of firstly an engine
tunng expert, and secondly a friend who has a raft of self-taught
knowledge on turbocharging). The Island system on #2727 has no cats and
employs these very simple pressure sensors on the left intake manifold
to detect when the system's under boost and disconnects the lambda
sensor, putting the lambda computer into "slightly-rich" mode. In other
words, it's a cheap and cheerful way of putting more fuel in the
cylinders when under boost. In my searching the web, I found this
intriguing product and one of the comments from the tuning expert was
"this would be very useful on a modified engine"
http://www.milford.ndirect.co.uk/kstar.html
Has anyone seen this product before?
#2727 does not have a knock sensor either, nor does/did it have a
re-curved rotor arm (it needed replacing anyway). I think in combination
with the K-star, the potential for fine tuning an Island twin engine is
huge.
Best Wishes
Martin
#1458
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