You need to make certain the micro switch for the idle circuit is making contatct at idle. There are 3 screws on the intake, all 3 should be set closed, lightly.There is no idle adjusment as such, the idle computer takes care of it if everything is working and set correctly. As far as torqueing the wheels most shops are more concerned about a wheel falling off than you removing a flat so they "go to town" and really sock those wheels on.The better shops are now using Torque sticks to tighten lugs. It is a colored extension that resonates when you reach the desired setting, different colors indicate the torque of each extension, they have different diameters. They really work. Using a lug wrench and pipe is no longer the way to go except to take off the lugs. When you remove the wheel clean the lugs because they collect tiny shards of metal from air gun happy mechanics who spin the lugs on and off. Be careful as they are sharp and after cleaning use WD-40 to lubricate the threads. Recheck the torque after the first 100 miles of driving and be sure to alternate when tightening the studs say a pattern of 1-3-2-4 so as not to warp the rotor. You should also make sure that the surface of the rotor and the corresponding surface of the rim is clean so the wheel won't wobble. David Teitelbaum vin 10757 --- In dmcnews@xxxx, Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxx> wrote: > I've skimmed the last quarter of 2000 and have a couple of comments. > Number 1, I hate the donkeys with impact wrenches that tighten lug nuts >hy > his idle was so fast. He was told, in effect, there was no control over > this, it's handled by the idle circuit...just not so, there's an idle > stop screw adjustment that can very quickly run the idle up to very the stop screw in very slightly...there's a lot of adjustment left on > that screw. > > Les