Ben, I have assembled a replacement fuse block. You can see it on my web site www.specialTauto.com. It would be a full day of rewiring i'm sure, but in a fix it will work and look good also. It is also modular, so if a fuse melts again and disfigures this block, then you can buy another section and it's unplug and plug. Email me if your intrested and we can talk about it. I'm not for sure what the material temperture rating of the Pressac block in the cars now is but I think mine is the same. I will check with the manufacture to see. John --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Ben Maxwell" <ben@xxxx> wrote: > In mine, the fuse block has melted in two places, where the fuses are > connected much like the fan fail fix... > > I'd love to eventually clean that area up, and get a new block and > harness, but would hate to have it meltdown again-- is there an > alternative fuse box out there? > > -ben > 06976 > > > > --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Walter" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote: > > Jim, > > > > It's not the fuse itself that is the source of the heat so much as > it is the > > poor connection to the fuse. If you want to reduce your chances of > a > > melt-down, use a heavier duty style of fuse & fuse holder with the > original > > 20 amp rating. > > > > The Delorean engineers thought they could get away with using a fuse > & > > holder rated at 20 amps that was meant for a low duty cycle and > instead they > > used it for a high or even continuous duty cycle situation (as in > the case > > with the headlight high beams which causes another melted spot on > the fuse > > block.) Either you need to take apart and clean the contacts > periodically > > and hope it doesn't melt down despite your efforts or else replace > it with a > > reasonable design that does not require this sort of maintenance. > > > > Walt Tampa, FL