In a message dated 4/14/00 8:10:26 AM Eastern Daylight Time, sean_dmc1@xxxx writes: << what should be the first things you tackle in trying to get the car up to optimum running order and daily driver status? Any secrets to avoiding costly repair bills? >> Personal opinion- other will disagree: 1. do the fuel tank mechanicals while it sits. (That is to say, don't drive it home from 3000 miles away at 70 mph. Trailer it if it's been sitting. Or pretty much sitting but runs.) Rotting hoses etc. may work but be gradually, or quickly ruining the injectors, etc. Ask Rob Grady what you should install. 2. Brake master cylinder probably shot, even if working. Check brake system hoses, shoes, etc. Might need to replace. 3. Cooling system: hoses and thermostat probably dying. Header bottle replacement before it breaks. Maybe waterpump too... if necessary. Aluminum engines can't handle overheating. I should know... just put a new head on my "family wheels" Neon this week. $$$ :( 4. Lockzilla upgrade before you fry your door lock solenoids, and have to spend even more. 5. Clutch line, slave and master probably all need replacing. They may be leaky but working fine...while stressing your clutch system.. A clutch job costs around $1000. Replace the cylinders and line and you may postpone that costly clutch job. 6. Tires if original NCT's, should be ok around town for awhile at in-city speeds, but I wouldn't burn rubber. They're 18 years old! 7. Don't forget the usual routine upgrades: inertia switch, trailing arm bolt double nut, relay upgrade, front end stabilizer bar strengthening, ball joint upgrade, ice shield . Ask a D parts supplier for their version of a "to do" list. Different ones will give you different answers. That's why it's good to pay attention when they answer! ;) Offhand, those seem to be the major "get it before it gets you" items. Of course other items may crop up demanding attention, like the a/c or thermotime switch. I've had my D for 2 months, starting with 13+K (actual) miles. The previous owner hardly ever drove it, only fixing what was broken, such as the fuel system, to make it runable. I originally estimated $3000. to do the most important upgrades, but I've gone a little overboard... closer to $4k though I've had no major surprises. I've done pretty much everything listed above except for the suspension upgrades, which hopefully are already on my '82. But I should've specifically asked Rob Grady to check last weekend, at the MidAtlantic Dust Off. To save cash: don't fix cosmetic items before your mechanicals are up to par. Don't send it away for 3 months and say, (no matter how great or honest the mechanic,) "just look it over and do whatever it needs." Most of us daily drivers, myself included, can't afford $8- 10,000+ for the like-new makeover. I take mine to my local trusted mechanic once a week with the correct parts in hand, and I pick it up that night with the a/c repaired, whatever. I know what I want done because I've researched it on the DML and with my D parts guy. He doesn't dig up his own parts. I resist replacing still-working non safety items, like the radiator, just because "we have it up on the lift anyway." Because that will eat up your dough too fast. Of course, if you can do your own repairs, that MIGHT be a savings... not in every case, tho.'! Ask on this list as you begin a project. Just before I did my clutch line, someone on the DML described how to install it without the factory specified job of unbolting the body from the frame!!! If I had relied solely on the manual, I'd had blown a lot of money! Don't forget, there's a big dollar difference between "optimum running order" and "daily driver." Mine was purchased in good enough shape for use immediately as a daily driver for my 7 minute "commute" to work. I'm still working toward "optimum running order," and a daily driver, almost by definition, won't be "concours." But I've enjoyed bringing VIN 11174 back to health! And driving it every day. =o)) -Wayne "Still Living The Dream!"