 
[DML] Re: Axel seal replacement tricks
   
[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]
[DML] Re: Axel seal replacement tricks
- From: "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2004 19:10:05 -0000
Hi Knut,
Dave & Dave are right of course. Especially regarding not adjusting 
that pre-load nut on the driver's side. Rob Grady confirmed this for 
me, just in case you wanted to hear it from an actual service 
provider.
The only important thing I want to add here, is that you should 
exercise care when prying out the old seal with a screwdriver. If 
you gouge the casing it'll leak around the outside. The rubber seal 
has a metal ring in it so it can be difficult to wedge the 
screwdriver in between the seal and the transmission casing and it 
can make it difficult to pry out. I recommend starting with a small, 
fine, flat tip screwdriver to make the initial insertion then once 
you've wedged a space step up to a larger screwdriver to pry out the 
seal.
A new flange is expensive. PJ Grady's flange collar is cheaper.
Hope I wasn't too redundant,
Rich A.
#5335
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews 
Yahoo! Groups Links
<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
    http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/
<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
    dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:
    http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 
 Back to the Home of PROJECT VIXEN
 Back to the Home of PROJECT VIXEN