Dave T, I have noticed that my doors, (driver's especially) "shake" when I drive over bumps. I even noticed my "door ajar" light briefly come on when taking a hard, right curve. The door is completely latched and lines up perfectly with the rest of the body when shut. The door latches as you described below. It should, you adjusted it for me at the Spring Social. ;-) Is this a case of flat seals, or should the striker pins be moved in- ward just a bit? Thanks, Rich A. #5335 --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxx> wrote: > You figured out what I have been trying to tell most people on the > DML. You MUST have the door closed in the "second" latching position. > BOTH LATCHES MUST be in 2nd position to lock. If you try to lock the > door with either latch NOT in 2nd position you bend, stretch, and > force things out of adjustment. The doors are NOT SUPPOSED to be able > to be locked unless you are in 2nd position. If it won't lock easily > it is trying to tell you that. Before you can do the door adjustments > you need to have the doors close properly. You CANNOT compensate for > old, flat door seals by adjusting the locking anchor pins. Lockzilla > says it cannot compensate for out-of-adjustment doors and bad > solenoids so you should have known it would not "fix" your problems. > As you close the door SLOWLY you can hear and feel the latches as they > catch in the first locking position and then (if everything is > adjusted correctly) the 2nd locking position. Slamming the door will > not make it work, in fact that is how you can jam it. The other thing > I see all too often is that the head of the anchor pins hit the door. > This pushes the door foward or back as the case may be making it hard > to open and close the door. The other thing I see is that the door > guides strike the pins. If the pins are adjusted right they should go > right up the middle of the guides and not even touch them. It is a > little tricky to get it right because the doors close in an ARC. It > may take some trial-and-error to get it right but once you get it you > tighten that pin real tight and it won't move. > David Teitelbaum > vin 10757 > > > --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Robert Moseley" <videobob@xxxx> wrote: > > Your door seals have you locked in. > > Read more to find out what I mean...... > > > > Many of us have suffered from frozen door locks. > > My drivers side door has always worked fine, but the passenger door > > from time to time would sometimes lock, and would need to be flipped > > back and forth a few times before you could get it. > > I thought that $440 on a Lock-ZILLA with a remote would have solved > > the problem but it had no effect. > > All it did was lock me out from remote! > > > > This time it locked up good. > > I haven't been able to get in the passenger side for weeks. > > Today I had to do something about it. > > So from the inside I began to rip the door apart. To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address: moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: dmcnews-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/