Re: [DML] Torsion bar adjustment = cake!

[DANIEL SHANE <daniel.shane@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Matt,

I would be interested in a video of the procedure. 
Maybe as an Mpeg file that We could all download ????

Dan

 --- Matt Spittle <supermatty@xxxxxxx> wrote: 
> If some of you remember the prequel to this post, it
> was 
> called "Help my torsion bar is coming out!"
> 
> I finally got around to fixing it this evening.  I
> propped the door 
> open with a broomstick.  Then, using a 1/2" breaker
> bar, hex socket, 
> and 4' steel pipe ONLY, my friend and I proceeded to
> remove the bar, 
> and then reinsert it, pushing it completely into
> front hinge.  There 
> was some dirt that prevented it from going in
> beforehand.  The 
> louvers and T-panel were both removed already.
> 
> I've gotta tell you guys, repairing the power mirror
> switch is about 
> 5 times harder than removing the torsion bar.  That
> is, with the 
> right tools.  One thing that makes it a lot simpler
> is the fact that 
> the retaining bracket bolts are VERY short, probably
> only like 1 
> inch long total.  As far as torque on the bar, with
> the door open 
> and a 4 foot pipe, the torque is barely noticeable. 
> In fact, it may 
> even be a better idea to use a shorter pipe (3')
> just so that you 
> don't remove the breaker bar prematurely.  
> 
> I can make an instructional video (on VHS) if anyone
> is 
> interested.  :)  My digital cam can only do like 15
> fps.  I may 
> readjust the bars on both doors anyway after I get
> the door panels 
> back on them.  I wasn't sure what the proper amount
> of torque would 
> be, since I purchased Toby's door lock actuators.  
> 
> Matt
> #1604



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