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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: air inlet valve
From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Turn signals not working!! ASAP
From: "netym89" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
3. Replacing the door roof seal_How???
From: "netym89" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
4. car mysteriously died
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
5. Re: air inlet valve
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
6. Re: air inlet valve
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
7. Roof Door seal replacement.How?
From: "netym89" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: DeLorean pricing
From: "netym89" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: 1 BAR = 14.7 PSI
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Drive shaft boots
From: MPolzin@xxxxxxx
11. body bolts
From: billsfanmd@xxxxxxx
12. getting all body panels regrained
From: "Michael Paine" <mpaine@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Re: air inlet valve
From: billsfanmd@xxxxxxx
14. Re: Replacing the door roof seal_How???
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: car mysteriously died
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: car mysteriously died
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
17. Re: Roof Door seal replacement.How?
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. RE: air inlet valve
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: Re: 1 BAR = 14.7 PSI
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Vacuum Question
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
21. Re: South Carolina Door Adjustment Festival
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
22. Re: Roof Door seal replacement.How?
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
23. Re: car mysteriously died
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
24. Re: car mysteriously died
From: "Eric Itzel" <eric@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
25. RE: body bolts
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2003 23:33:38 -0500
From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: air inlet valve
On Saturday, March 22, 2003, at 09:04 PM, K. Creason wrote:
> Hey-
> I was tightening my body-frame bolts (and boy did they need it) and
> pulled
> the air inlet valve off to get to that one bolt in the pontoon.
So, were you actually able to get to that bolt without removing the
rear fascia?
--Pete Lucas
VIN #06703
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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 05:05:33 -0000
From: "netym89" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Turn signals not working!! ASAP
The hazard switch routes the aux voltage thru pin#5 and #6 from the
#4 fuse responsible for voltage to the turn signals. If these
contacts are dirty in the hazard switch because of oxidation, very
common on copper terminals, the turn signals will not work.
The problem has been fixed!!!
End of diagnosis.
Thanks to all that contributed.
John E.
10250
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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 05:09:57 -0000
From: "netym89" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Replacing the door roof seal_How???
The door roof seal made of rubber is held in place with a stainless
steel retaining plate riveted into the door. On my car, these two
items have been removed by the previous owner and now after
inspection the rivets in the door are permanently positioned in the
door. How do I go about putting the seal back in place?? Drill the
rivets out of the door?? New rivets?? Anybody reply that has replaced
this seal/retainer for the roof.
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 01:23:12 EST
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: car mysteriously died
List,
hmm, what a familiar subject line! LOL!!!
well here's one that had me stumped tonight. i was driving my car down a
busy street after it was fully warmed up and suddenly the car died as i
slowed down at a stop. i turned the key and it started up again. hmm, ok.
so i drive about another 2 or 3 blocks and the car dies again! this time i
tried starting it and it ran for about 3 seconds then it quit. subsequent
attempts met with failure. the car would crank but failed to start, like
there was no gas.
luckily it's easy to convince young kids to help you push your car into a
parking lot. from there i began a diagnosis. i started by checking under my
car for gas puddles, checked all my fuel hoses in the engine bay, etc. no
leaks found. check wires on ignition resistor, check plug wires, checked
wiring to cold start, idle motor, CPR, they are good. went to relay box, all
fuses ok and not hot, all relays good and not hot. then i opened up the fuel
pump cover. everything was dry (blew a fitting off a line last summer,
thought that was the problem again). didn't see any problems there.
well as i was checking things i would try starting the car again. every now
and then the car would start and run for a few seconds then shut off. it
wouldn't sputter it would just die. i would also try giving it gas. i could
rev it a few times and it would sound just fine, then it would die and no
matter how much gas i gave it, i couldn't get it to rev again or even
sputter, like i had no spark anymore or the fuel pump shut off. with this in
mind, the next time the car ran i put my hand on the fuel pump (which sounded
just fine), i found that the pump didn't shut off until the car had
completely shut down. it would buzz until everything else was dead. not sure
what exactly that helps determine. then checked my ignition wires again and
i pulled the relay out of the socket which is right next to the ignition
resistor. then i tried starting the car and this time it ran and didn't
quit! i drove it home.
any idea if this relay was coincidence? what does it do? any other ideas?
Andy
then suddenly, the car started
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 06:23:46 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: air inlet valve
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "K. Creason" <dmc4687@xxxx> wrote:
> Hey-
> I was tightening my body-frame bolts (and boy did they need it) and pulled
> the air inlet valve off to get to that one bolt in the pontoon.
>
> I noticed that it was still mostly closed allowing hot air even though it
> was 70ish.
> I then noticed that it didn't moved when I heated it up.
<SNIP>
I had a simular problem with mine. As you can see, there is the one
adjustment bolt on the front that you can turn. I placed the vavle in the fridge
for about an hour, and then turned it to close the vavle, but not even
completely. I found that after warming up, the valve flap was still only opening
up half way.
My solution: I totally dumped the the vavle and heat stove. It was also about
this time that I noticed that the intake diameter of the inlet on the air box is far
larger than that on the intake vent. I now have the intake hose pulling in air
from below the rocker cover, inside the engine comparment, but pointed away
from the radiator. I can tell you that this has allowed the engine to breath
MUCH easier, and it sounds a bit better.
There are also a couple of things to consider about removing the valve. You
can connect the fresh air intake hose directly to the intake, but this is not good
in cold weather. I've noticed that the engine was way too sluggish, and
noticed a bit of oil consumption. Allowing the intake hose to pull air from
inside the engine compartment removed these problems, as the engine
compartment warms up very quickly. Plus performance isn't really sacrificed
like it would be on other cars. The engine cover is vented, nor is the radiator
in the same compartment, so the air doesn't get that hot. However, it is a
problem in the rain. You hit water, and the compartment will steam up.
Sucking steam into an engine is not something that I'm too happy about, but if
you never allow water to hit the motor when it's hot, then I wouldn't worry too
much about it.
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 01:31:53 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: air inlet valve
Kevin, The hot air valve is what I call a sissy valve. It shuts off cold air
to help warm the car up a little faster, but at the same time it starves cold
air to help the car run with more pep. I ran a 3" flex hose from pep boys
from the bottom of the air breather to the hole in the pontoon and wa la the
car runs better.
Colder air, and that's what the car likes.
John Hervey
www.specailTauto.com
<< Hey-
I was tightening my body-frame bolts (and boy did they need it) and pulled
the air inlet valve off to get to that one bolt in the pontoon.
I noticed that it was still mostly closed allowing hot air even though it
was 70ish.
I then noticed that it didn't moved when I heated it up. Another aged part
to check, guys. There is a little indicator on the side that tells you what
air the valve is letting in at the moment, so you don't have to remove it to
check.
There not too expensive at my local part store (www.delorean.com) at about
$58, but unfortunately they're closed on Saturdays and Warren, James or
Stephen have failed to give me their home numbers for weekend parts. :D
So I pulled it off, fiddled around with it, lubed it, and freed it up some,
but it still wouldn't open fully to cold air. I adjusted the plastic nut and
got it to where I think it will operate better. I tossed it in the fridge
and noted that it closed fully, but it sure is slow to open up again.
What is the replacement schedule for these guys? What about regular
adjustments?
-Kevin
#4687
>>
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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 08:53:35 -0000
From: "netym89" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Roof Door seal replacement.How?
When I bought my Delorean six years ago, I realized that after an
inspection, the rood door seal and the retaining plate were removed
by the previous owner. I found them in the trunk. Because it is held
in with rivets, I noticed that the rivets are in the door and I don't
know how to go about it. Must I drill them out and replace them with
new ones? Do I knock them into the door with a hammer?Not my first
choice. So here, anybody that has replaced these seals, I need to
hear from you because your advise will help me do it the right way.
Talk to you soon.
John
10250
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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 09:30:38 -0000
From: "netym89" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DeLorean pricing
Scott,
I agree wholeheartedly with your opinion about the cost of a good
Delorean. I bought mine for $9000 and have over the last six years
spend $2000 on the car. With the exception of getting the wheels
refinished,binnacle repairs, new rotors and getting my exhaust fixed,
I am really done with my car. It is now a safe, dry weather only,
show quality vehicle. The frame, I must admit could use a total
revamping but splitting the car in half is not my idea of fun as a
hobby mechanic. Lets see, that puts me at about $12,000. Not bad!!
Would I want a $34,000 US Delorean. No thanks!! I'd buy a second one
for $10,000 US anytime and still have extra money to restore it.
Sorry, but there are more of us Delorean-do-it-yourselvers around
than those swimming in cash and buying a $30+ car instead. The
greatest enjoyment besides driving it, is actually fixing the car
yourself if you have the brains and motivation how to.
That's wahat it is all about!!
John
10250
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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 14:31:58 -0000
From: "twinenginedmc12" <twinenginedmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 1 BAR = 14.7 PSI
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxx> wrote:
> Can anyone verify that the struts are actually 2400 psi..
>
> I find this difficult to believe.
....
> BOB
Hi Bob.
I'm with you on that. I also found it difficult to believe. A while
back I measured the relaxed and compressed forces produced by four
different struts.
The range was 260-290 pounds relaxed to 405-445 pounds compressed.
At first I thought it would be impossible to determine the gas
pressure without taking a strut apart to determine the cross-
sectional area of the piston, but it turns out the piston has holes,
that allow the gas to act on both sides of the piston. The way
they're designed, the pressure only acts on the cross section of the
10mm rod which has an area on only 0.121 square inch.
This translates to gas pressure of 2130psi-2380psi relaxed to 3330psi-
3660psi compressed. Unbelievable but true.
Rick Gendreau
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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 09:19:39 -0600
From: MPolzin@xxxxxxx
Subject: Drive shaft boots
Does anyone know where to get a replacement boots for the drive shafts?
While doing an inspection of my car I noticed that mine are really dry and
brittle, and won't hold grease anymore. I would like to replace both the
inner and outer boots.
Thanks,
Mike Polzin
VIN 4761
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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 11:25:45 EST
From: billsfanmd@xxxxxxx
Subject: body bolts
Just read someone's post about tightening the body bolts. I have cleaned all
the ground points on my car. Next up is checking all the body bolts. Can
anyone provide a quick post about where each of these bolts are...
thanks
Mike C
2109
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 11:16:49 EST (-0500)
From: "Michael Paine" <mpaine@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: getting all body panels regrained
Hello,
What is the cost of getting all the stainless body panels re-
flapwheeled? I think that's the term....
Michael
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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 11:30:42 EST
From: billsfanmd@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: air inlet valve
My car has the air intake toatally removed. Can someone explain an easy fix
to correct this. The whole assmebly was in bad shape so my friend and I
removed it. I would like to try John Hervery's idea of just running a flex
hose from the black air breather to somehwere to get outside air. Can John or
someone explain an easy fix...
Mike C
2109
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 10:51:09 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Replacing the door roof seal_How???
YEP,
you have to drill out those rivets. What makes the job alot easier it
so go to the hardware store and buy a 12" long 1/8" drill bit. This
makes it easy to access those buggers.
Just be careful not to press to hard and end up denting the roof panel.
You can buy SS replacement rivets and replacement rubbers from the D
vendors. Make sure your rivet gun has a long neck.
BOB
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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 16:42:51 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: car mysteriously died
Hi Andy
The ignition coil cannot take 12v, so the feed to the coil passes
through those two resistors. However as we all know, cranking causes the
voltage on the battery to drop - maybe to as low a 6-8v when not fully
charged. And of course when cranking, the one thing you really want is a
decent spark! So, the purpose of that relay is to short out one of the
two resistors giving the coil more of the available voltage to create a
spark. The supply to the relay comes strait from the starter solenoid.
John Hervey has a diagram on his website but I think it isn't 100% correct.
However, open or closed, that relay should not affect the coil getting a
feed.... the only thing I can think of is that there's something
seriously terminally wrong with that relay and it's grounding your coil
feed!
I suggest you cut off and re-crimp all the connectors going to the
ballast resistors, and clean up all the contacts. Also replace that
relay. I have a nice new sealed plastic one with integral blade fuse at
5A. My car now starts much better, especially on a damp morning.
BTW all through your post I was thinking "fuel pump" until you noted
that it started and shut down fine. This tells you immediately that the
RPM relay is working correctly, which was my first guess based on your
symptoms.
Martin
#1458
#4426
Soma576@xxxxxxx wrote:
>then checked my ignition wires again and
>i pulled the relay out of the socket which is right next to the ignition
>resistor. then i tried starting the car and this time it ran and didn't
>quit! i drove it home.
>
>any idea if this relay was coincidence? what does it do? any other ideas?
>
>Andy
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 12:05:50 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: car mysteriously died
Andy,
The relay on the fire wall is explained under general reference on my web
site. It will effect the starting but not the running. You can actually do
without it if you move the wire from the solenoid wire over to the right side
of the resister. It's the blue/yellow wire.
The pulse coil will do what your talking about as well as the ignition coil,
but when these cut the car off they have to cool down for about 30 min to 1
hour before the car will start back up. And if it was running OK before then
it would continue to do so.
The other two things that will do what your talking about is the connection
on top of the Idle speed motor, either a wire is broke in the connector or
the connector isn't making good connection.
The 02 setting could be to low so when you go to a stop the control plunger
is going to low. This can also be caused by the set screw has backed out from
the striker plate and the throttle body lever is going to far down shutting
of the air /fuel.
Last thing I can think of the micro switch, either bad wires or bad switch.
If the idle speed motor doesn't turn on when the peddle goes down and the
idle speed motor doesn't turn on, the it will die.
My first choice would be the connection on the Idle speed motor.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com
<< with this in
mind, the next time the car ran i put my hand on the fuel pump (which
sounded
just fine), i found that the pump didn't shut off until the car had
completely shut down. it would buzz until everything else was dead. not
sure
what exactly that helps determine. then checked my ignition wires again and
i pulled the relay out of the socket which is right next to the ignition
resistor. then i tried starting the car and this time it ran and didn't
quit! i drove it home.
any idea if this relay was coincidence? what does it do? any other ideas?
>>
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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 16:46:01 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Roof Door seal replacement.How?
Yes you need to drill those rivets out and buy a pop-rivet tool to
install the new seals. You may decide they're more trouble than they're
worth though.... I had to take my roof off to get my new ones in, and
you must be very careful of the torsion bar the whole time. Headache.
Martin
#1458
#4426
netym89 wrote:
>When I bought my Delorean six years ago, I realized that after an
>inspection, the rood door seal and the retaining plate were removed
>by the previous owner. I found them in the trunk. Because it is held
>in with rivets, I noticed that the rivets are in the door and I don't
>know how to go about it. Must I drill them out and replace them with
>new ones? Do I knock them into the door with a hammer?Not my first
>choice. So here, anybody that has replaced these seals, I need to
>hear from you because your advise will help me do it the right way.
>Talk to you soon.
>John
>10250
>
>
>
>
>
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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 12:35:55 -0600
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: air inlet valve
Yup, and I've got the war scars on the forearm to prove it. I doubt it's as
tight as the others though.
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Lucas [mailto:lucas@xxxxxxxx]
Sent: Saturday, March 22, 2003 10:34 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] air inlet valve
On Saturday, March 22, 2003, at 09:04 PM, K. Creason wrote:
> Hey-
> I was tightening my body-frame bolts (and boy did they need it) and
> pulled
> the air inlet valve off to get to that one bolt in the pontoon.
So, were you actually able to get to that bolt without removing the
rear fascia?
--Pete Lucas
VIN #06703
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 13:02:35 -0600
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: 1 BAR = 14.7 PSI
Rick,
If it is true that there are refillable struts on the Delorean (German)
site, maybe they are of a different design with a much large piston.
This would explain how they could be recharged with a ordinary air
compressor.
Does anyone have a direct link to where this rechargable struts are shown?
Are they of a different internal design. ?
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Message: 20
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 19:42:48 -0000
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Vacuum Question
Here's a quick question for you all..
What would the symptoms be of the vacuum hose being disconnected from the
vacuum advance unit?
Cheers
Paul
#6463
http://www.paul.salsbury.btinternet.co.uk
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Message: 21
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 21:51:42 -0000
From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: South Carolina Door Adjustment Festival
Point of clarification: #5939 is fine (or fine enough given resto in
process). Is driver himself out of service...
Dave is right -- was good time. As William Bowie (future owner) found
out, is an extensive "dealer" service network for little silver cars.
Just that most of us are "independent dealers"...
Bill "Lefty" Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxx> wrote:
> is now history. Bill Robertson, Travis Goodwin, Louie Golden and a
> few other DML regulars met up for a quality afternoon of DMC-
> tweaking. Even though Bill had to leave his car at home we still had
> three show up. Read all about it in the "Gatherings" section of
> DMCNews at
>
> http://www.dmcnews.com/events/socarolina03/socarolina03.html
>
> A good time was had by all.
>
> Send in information and pictures on your events!
>
> Dave Swingle
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Message: 22
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 14:42:21 -0800 (PST)
From: Christian Williams <delorean@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Roof Door seal replacement.How?
I know that Don Steger has a method of replacing the rivits with sheet
metal screws. From what I know, he grinds off the tips so that they're
just the right length. It makes replacing the seal in the future a lot
easier.
But although he's done it before, he doesn't like doing it. I'm not sure
if it's because it's just a lot of tedious work, or if it's not a very
safe thing to do. Give him a call though and see what he thinks.
-Christian
On Sun, 23 Mar 2003, Martin Gutkowski wrote:
> Yes you need to drill those rivets out and buy a pop-rivet tool to
> install the new seals. You may decide they're more trouble than they're
> worth though.... I had to take my roof off to get my new ones in, and
> you must be very careful of the torsion bar the whole time. Headache.
>
> Martin
> #1458
> #4426
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 23
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 22:50:44 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: car mysteriously died
Two common causes, if electical, are the connections on the white
ballast resistor and the pick-up coil in the distributer. The pick-up
coil goes bad when the engine warms up, as it cools down it works
again. Clean the connectors to the ballast resistor and if the car
dies again immediatly check for spark at a spark plug. If you don't
have any replace the pick-up coil. It is a ROYAL pain to do as you
have to get the mixture unit out of the way. If you think it is fuel
related then try to restart with JUST A LITTLE starting fluid. If it
is a fuel problem it will start right up and die.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, dherv10@xxxx wrote:
> Andy,
>
> The relay on the fire wall is explained under general reference on
my web
> site. It will effect the starting but not the running. You can
actually do
> without it if you move the wire from the solenoid wire over to the
right side
> of the resister. It's the blue/yellow wire.
>
> The pulse coil will do what your talking about as well as the
ignition coil,
> but when these cut the car off they have to cool down for about 30
min to 1
> hour before the car will start back up. And if it was running OK
before then
> it would continue to do so.
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 24
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 17:51:08 -0500
From: "Eric Itzel" <eric@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: car mysteriously died
is there gas in the car? This happened to me once, and even though my gauge
said I had gas, I was out
Just a suggestion..
Eric Itzel
Vin 4433
----- Original Message -----
From: <Soma576@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2003 1:23 AM
Subject: [DML] car mysteriously died
> List,
>
> hmm, what a familiar subject line! LOL!!!
> well here's one that had me stumped tonight. i was driving my car down a
> busy street after it was fully warmed up and suddenly the car died as i
> slowed down at a stop. i turned the key and it started up again. hmm,
ok.
> so i drive about another 2 or 3 blocks and the car dies again! this time
i
> tried starting it and it ran for about 3 seconds then it quit. subsequent
> attempts met with failure. the car would crank but failed to start, like
> there was no gas.
>
> luckily it's easy to convince young kids to help you push your car into a
> parking lot. from there i began a diagnosis. i started by checking under
my
> car for gas puddles, checked all my fuel hoses in the engine bay, etc. no
> leaks found. check wires on ignition resistor, check plug wires, checked
> wiring to cold start, idle motor, CPR, they are good. went to relay box,
all
> fuses ok and not hot, all relays good and not hot. then i opened up the
fuel
> pump cover. everything was dry (blew a fitting off a line last summer,
> thought that was the problem again). didn't see any problems there.
>
> well as i was checking things i would try starting the car again. every
now
> and then the car would start and run for a few seconds then shut off. it
> wouldn't sputter it would just die. i would also try giving it gas. i
could
> rev it a few times and it would sound just fine, then it would die and no
> matter how much gas i gave it, i couldn't get it to rev again or even
> sputter, like i had no spark anymore or the fuel pump shut off. with this
in
> mind, the next time the car ran i put my hand on the fuel pump (which
sounded
> just fine), i found that the pump didn't shut off until the car had
> completely shut down. it would buzz until everything else was dead. not
sure
> what exactly that helps determine. then checked my ignition wires again
and
> i pulled the relay out of the socket which is right next to the ignition
> resistor. then i tried starting the car and this time it ran and didn't
> quit! i drove it home.
>
> any idea if this relay was coincidence? what does it do? any other ideas?
>
> Andy
>
> then suddenly, the car started
>
>
> Soma576@xxxxxxx
> 1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
> Fargo, ND 58102
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
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Message: 25
Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2003 17:05:13 -0600
From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: body bolts
It is hard to find Robert's original post. So here's the info again for
tightening body to frame bolts to prevent body sliding or clunking in
corners.
Hopefully all those key words will help future searches. :D
----------------------------
Ok, total there are 12 bolts that mount the fiberglass underbody to the
chassis. Here are there locations:
Trunk: 2 bolts in here.
a.. To access the bolts, pull up the carpet (and board insert if
applicable). The bolts screw mount, to the inside of the shock towers.
Passenger Compartment: A total 6 bolts here, and all mount to the side of
the chassis backbone.
a.. The bolts that hold the seatbelt receptacles in.
b.. The remaining bolts are located fore and aft of these bolts. To get to
the remaining bolts, you will need to pull the carpet on the center console
back. If unsure of location, you can feel the bolts under the carpet.
Engine Compartment: Total of 4 bolts.
a.. 2 are used not just to secure the underbody to the frame, but they
also hold the cross-brace in place to strengthen the chassis. They are
located to the front of the engine compartment, and bolt just inside of the
rear shock towers.
b.. The final two bolts are a bit trickier. Unlike the other bolts, these
mount from inside the fiberglass body, and into the chassis. If you are a
bit double-jointed, you can access the left side bolt by removing the access
panel for the carbon canister. Otherwise, the only way to access these bolts
is to remove the rear fascia. Also removing the air intake it may be
possible to tighten the right side; it has been done!
-----Original Message-----
From: billsfanmd@xxxxxxx [mailto:billsfanmd@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Sunday, March 23, 2003 10:26 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] body bolts
Just read someone's post about tightening the body bolts. I have cleaned all
the ground points on my car. Next up is checking all the body bolts. Can
anyone provide a quick post about where each of these bolts are...
thanks
Mike C
2109
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