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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 16 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Fuse box...
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
2. Re: Re: Cold help
From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxx>
3. RE: Re: door strut cross reference
From: "Rob Hook" <rob_hook@xxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Electrical Mess
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. RE: Re: Re: Alternative to Idle Speed Motor...
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
6. VIN Nmber / Delorean Background -SCEDT26T3BD001764
From: "barrycondoluci" <condoluci@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Gulf Coast DeLoreans
From: "dmc83n99@xxxxxxxxxxxxx" <dmc83n99@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Re: Delorean 4x4 on Monster Garage (website)
From: kayoong@xxxxxxx
9. Re: Cold help
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Re: Cold help
From: "D F" <funkstuf@xxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Cold help
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
12. poor idle finally solved?....
From: "Adam" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
13. WGN Coverage of the Chicago St. Patricks Day Parade
From: "mlick27" <mlick27@xxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Porsche Motors in BTTF Deloreans
From: "John Dore" <dmcjohn@xxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Re: Cold help
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
16. Used parts wanted
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 21:26:32 EST
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Fuse box...
OK I have gotten a few replies, but it looks as if people are confused. I am
NOT looking for a replacement fuse box for my delorean. The fuse box in my
delorean is perfect. I am working on a project that requires that I get a
fuse box that has the fuses that are side by side each other to be exactly
the same distance apart as the original delorean fuse box. I actually just
need 2 fuses side by side, I plan to cut the fuse box down since I won't need
the other slots.
Later,
Nick Pitello
1852
15914
<A HREF="" href="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 21:37:53 -0500
From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Cold help
On Friday, March 14, 2003, at 10:16 AM, David Teitelbaum wrote:
>
> Check the 3 brass screws on the intake, they should be LIGHTLTY closed
> (clockwise)
I've been wondering this for years:
When referring to these three screws, everybody always emphasizes that
they need to be closed "LIGHTLY". Why, exactly, can't I close them
"moderately" or even "tightly"? Is there actually a reason, or is this
a DeLorean urban myth?
--Pete Lucas
VIN #06703
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 21:57:36 -0500
From: "Rob Hook" <rob_hook@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: door strut cross reference
I think the topic of finding a door strut cross reference has been coming up
several times a year since this list started. There is no suitable
cross-reference anyway. Not even close. The struts have to be VERY strong.
Much stronger than almost any other automotive application would require.
--Rob
-----Original Message-----
From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Friday, March 14, 2003 4:16 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Re: door strut cross reference
Don't cut corners on this one. Risk of damage to pontoon mounted ball
stud too great. Rob Grady's are 100% proper length and work quite well
IMHO. Shouldn't be any problem to ship to Canada, even overnight.
Bill Robertson
#5939
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Stephane & France" <fchenail@xxxx>
wrote:
> allo i'm looking for door strut cross reference
> in canada<
> fchenail@xxxx
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 4
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 04:12:14 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Electrical Mess
The otterstadt switch has several failure modes. If you suspect the
switch just remove the 2 wires. That should stop the fans if the A/C
is off. Now using a straightened paper clip connect them together, the
both fans should run. If they do not work as described there is still
a problem in the car's wiring. If it does work correctly but not when
the switch is hooked up replace the otterstadt switch AND seal. DO NOT
USE ANY SEALER ON THE SILICONE SEAL. It will cause it to fail. Make
sure to use the clip and if you don't have it to hold in the switch
you can use a strap-tie. As you see it is not always easy to excise
out all of the wiring modifacations from previous owners. Use the
wiring diaghrams in the Workshop Manual to try to return it to stock.
You should start at the fuse block trying to return it to stock first
with either a fan fail bypass or a relay system like Fanzilla. Do not
use the blue fan fail relay, it may have already failed. It is
difficult to give you guidance when the system isn't stock as there is
no way now to know what you have and how it is supposed to work. It
may get down to going over the car 1 wire at a time.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Phil Priestley <phil@xxxx> wrote:
> *This message was transferred with a trial version of
CommuniGate(tm) Pro*
> I am in the process of fixing the prior owners electrical mess and have
> ran into a few problems. In a recent post I mentioned the electric mess
> inside the doors (Yards of extra wiring, 3 relays per door, flasher
> modules ). One mod to the car was wiring that ran from the alternator
> all the way up to the cooling fans, an otterstat installed in the
> radiator, funky fan wiring, and another wire that ran all the way back
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 23:18:27 -0500
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
Subject: RE: Re: Re: Alternative to Idle Speed Motor...
A very simple and inexpensive alternative to the stock idle speed motor and ECU is to use a bi-metalic rotating idle air valve off of a Porsche 914 or VW type IV. It'll bolt right to the left front corner of the intake. The plumbing is simple and all you have to do is put 12 volts on it. It is also somewhat adjustable for air flow. As the element heats from the 12 volt power supply and the engines radiant heat, the b-metalic strip rotates the air valve progressively until it closes. I use one with my EFI set up and it works great.
Jim 6147
"content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>My "original" idle speed system was cantankerous and irritating.
>Sometimes it worked, sometimes it didn't. Remember, however, I am
>burning a replacement engine. Idle speed circuit was not transferred
>per DMC design (blame a PO, not me) No throttle closed microswitch --
>motor was hard wired on (am also missing the spark advance solenoid.
>That's why my takeoff is uphill of throttle plates, like a
>carburetor). Perhaps full time operation fried motor or ECU. Either
>way, was not willing to spend $hundreds to fix.
>
>Solenoid valve indeed on/off (one reason I was hoping for a coil). But
>since I'm currently in full control with dash switch, no problem
>there. In future will see how vehicle responds to coolant switch. By
>the time water is hot car shouldn't need fast idle. If need be can
>always leave dash switch active (kind of like an old choke cable, eh?).
>
>May need two idle speed settings for summer and winter. Have done that
>with smaller carbureted vehicles when A/C solenoid dies. Ford 460's
>don't seem to notice compressor is even there...
>
>Only brought this mod to list's attention because others seem to be
>having similar problems. Of course an automatic system is nice, *IF*
>it works correctly. I don't care about nice. I care about reliable.
>Bypass/balancing screws stay put where I set them. As evidenced in
>pics, I prefer engine distilled to its basics. No whistles, no bells,
>no problems.
>
>Note on driver's side of my block one more advantage -- distributor is
>finally accessible! Have to raise upper air assembly for vertical
>clearance to remove wires, but no sweat reaching them, hold down bolt,
>etc. 100% improvement.
>
>Bill Robertson
>#5939
>
>>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxx> wrote:
>> From your description of what you did it sounds like the aux air valve
>> is now either on or off. There is no in between. The origional "stock"
>> idle motor and ECU is capable of modulating ie: it can give you speeds
>> in between full open and full closed so it can hold the idle speed to
>> a specified value like when you run the A/C or in an automatic you
>> stop at a lite and are sitting in Drive with your foot on the brake it
>> keeps the idle speed up but not too high. Your system cannot
>> compensate for load changes, only temperature changes. IMHO the stock
>> system is the better way to go, it just needs to work properly and be
>> set-up correctly (something many mechanics can't seem to do).
>> David Teitelbaum
>> vin 10757
>>
>>
>> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx>
>> wrote:
>> > My PRV idles with bypass & balancing screws (like a Volvo). Works
>> > excellent, but lacks ability to fast idle -- especially useful on 28
>> > degree mornings. Have engineered an "auxiliary air valve" from BMW
>> 530
>> > to accomplish this (am not partial to that particular model; was
>> > simply soonest ending eBay auction when I got bright idea). Uploaded
>> > JPG's to #5939's photo album. Text below:
>> >
>> > Aux air valves were apparently used by most other manufacturers of
>> the
>> > time. Are solenoid or coil operated valves similar to heater core
>> shut
>> > off valves. Cold, valve is open, allowing additional engine vacuum
>> to
>> > operate sensor plate (fast idle). Warm, valve closes, limiting
>> sensor
>> > plate movement to bypass screw.
>> > My valve has 3/4" ports. Stepped down to 3/8" with brass fittings.
>> > Vacuum source port also turned 90 degrees with an elbow (would have
>> > preferred model that passes straight through, but hey, this one
>> > works). Converted two 1/8 NPT nipples to 10x1 to fit manifold and
>> > upper air assembly (anyone else noted how close those thread
>> patterns
>> > are? Die down right nicely). Used mega hose to avoid collapsing
>> under
>> > vacuum. Line to air sensor plate makes pretty severe bend under
>> > driver's intake rail, so I reinforced with an internal spring. Also
>> > had to move spark advance to a smaller adjacent port (see old pic
>> > titled "R30 - Front". That's extent of my engine vacuum system BTW).
>> >
>> > Was hoping for a coil operated valve but got a solenoid. Oh well,
>> what
>> > do you expect for $5. Next time intake manifold is off will attach
>> > ground wire to thermal switch in coolant pipe. Until then is
>> triggered
>> > by a switch under the dash left over from earlier experiments. 12v
>> > supply is taken from old idle speed motor harness.
>> >
>> > Couldn't be happier with performance of this low tech idle speed
>> > system. Removes all the gremlins that plagued my automatic motor.
>> > Total investment: $20.
>> >
>> > Anyone want to buy a surplus idle speed motor and ECU?
>> >
>> > Bill Robertson
>> > #5939
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 08:44:18 -0000
From: "barrycondoluci" <condoluci@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: VIN Nmber / Delorean Background -SCEDT26T3BD001764
Hi,
Have ownership of the above. Have been told that early on in its
life it was owned by a Delorean Owner Club President - who died in
1994/5 in the New Jersey region and the car 1 of 2 was sold to a
florida dealer by the widow. It was then bought by a dutchman (who
i have contacted) and imported into Holland.
Can anyone help me with a trace on this or a name of the club
president? Bit of a mystery, would appreciate any input.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 08:00:37 -0600 (Central Standard Time)
From: "dmc83n99@xxxxxxxxxxxxx" <dmc83n99@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Gulf Coast DeLoreans
Hey everyone;
Spring has finally come to the Florida panhandle, and it's getting to be
nice cruising weather. Is there anyone on the list from the area who might
be interested in getting something organized? Email me off list and let's
talk about it!
Scott
dmc83n99(at)bellsouth.net
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 23:42:42 EST
From: kayoong@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Delorean 4x4 on Monster Garage (website)
FWIW... there is another vehicle shown that has gullwing doors.
<A HREF="" href="http://dsc.discovery.com/fansites/monstergarage/yourmonster/yourmonster_07.html">http://dsc.discovery.com/fansites/monstergarage/yourmonster/yourmonster_07.html">
http://dsc.discovery.com/fansites/monstergarage/yourmonster/yourmonster_07.html
</A>
Kayo Ong
#5508
Lic 9D NY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 16:55:12 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Cold help
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxx> wrote:
<SNIP>
> I've been wondering this for years:
> When referring to these three screws, everybody always emphasizes
that
> they need to be closed "LIGHTLY". Why, exactly, can't I close them
> "moderately" or even "tightly"? Is there actually a reason, or is
this
> a DeLorean urban myth?
>
> --Pete Lucas
> VIN #06703
The screws are wide at the top , but become smaller at the bottom,
sort of like a hourglass shape. So, if you screw them down too
tightly, they will snap right off at the thinnest point. I don't
think this really causes any problems with the car, other than just
an out of place reminder that you'll look at reminding you that you
snapped off the bolts because you were not careful enough while
working on the car. Or atlest this is the feeling I get after
learning the hard way to *gently* tighten the screws down. :|
Otherwise, the screws will still seal just fine.
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 16:39:56 +0000
From: "D F" <funkstuf@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Cold help
I'm even more confused about this than you.
Does this mean open them all the way then turn them "lightly". Is lightly a
quarter turn or a half turn or a full turn? Does closed lightly mean they
should be nearly all the way closed then barely not closed?
Dale Funk
vin 4984
>From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxx>
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: Re: [DML] Re: Cold help
>Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2003 21:37:53 -0500
>
>
>On Friday, March 14, 2003, at 10:16 AM, David Teitelbaum wrote:
> >
> > Check the 3 brass screws on the intake, they should be LIGHTLTY closed
> > (clockwise)
>
>I've been wondering this for years:
>When referring to these three screws, everybody always emphasizes that
>they need to be closed "LIGHTLY". Why, exactly, can't I close them
>"moderately" or even "tightly"? Is there actually a reason, or is this
>a DeLorean urban myth?
>
>--Pete Lucas
> VIN #06703
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderators@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
>For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see www.dmcnews.com
>
>To search the archives or view files, log in at
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 23:14:14 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Cold help
The main reason is that the screws are brass and therefore soft.
Overtightening them will distort them and cause them to groove where
they seat. You could also possibly strip the threads. You are only
trying to stop a very low air pressure so there really is no need to
"gorilla" them tight. Actually only 1 has to be closed. If it is still
in the correct position it is the one with a slot in the head, the
other 2 are "balancing" screws which adjust how much air to each side
of the manifold. Closing the main one shuts the air off to the other
2. These are only used during the setting of the mixture screw when
using an exhaust analyzer, at all other times they should be left
alone. The problem is that they are so tempting, most mechanics think
that tweaking them will fix things and in most cases they wind up
leaving them open. This reduces the ability of the idle speed motor to
control the air going into the motor so it cannot accuratly keep the
idle set. Usually when I find the screws (at least the main one) open
I find other things that are not right. On most cars I have seen the
other 2 (balancing screws) are open a little. Don't rush out to your
garage and close them. It is only important for the one with the slot
(the lowest one on the engine) to be closed. You should be able to
turn them with your fingers, not a wrench although there are flats for
a wrench. BTW this same advice applys to the old carburaters where
they had idle screws to adjust the idle mixture. They were always
brass and had the same warning.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxx> wrote:
>
> On Friday, March 14, 2003, at 10:16 AM, David Teitelbaum wrote:
> >
> > Check the 3 brass screws on the intake, they should be LIGHTLTY closed
> > (clockwise)
>
> I've been wondering this for years:
> When referring to these three screws, everybody always emphasizes that
> they need to be closed "LIGHTLY". Why, exactly, can't I close them
> "moderately" or even "tightly"? Is there actually a reason, or is this
> a DeLorean urban myth?
>
> --Pete Lucas
> VIN #06703
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 20:17:59 -0000
From: "Adam" <acprice1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: poor idle finally solved?....
I installed my new coolant pipe today and things are looking good.
John Hervey even threw in a plastic shield thing to help protect the
hose from the alternator belt, thanks John!
While in the engine compartment I started messing with other stuff
and I found an electrical connector just hanging around. I couldn't
find where it fell out of so that is my question: It is a black
connector block housing both a male and female blade connector. It
has two wires one orange and one purple. It is positioned in the back
of engine bay behind distributer area, and the two wires lead into a
larger mass of wires that go across the top of the intake manifold.
Does anyone know what this connector may be for and where it plugs in
at?
Thanks in advance for any help !!!
Adam 16683
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 22:23:34 -0000
From: "mlick27" <mlick27@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: WGN Coverage of the Chicago St. Patricks Day Parade
Just got home from driving in the parade. We had 14 cars...and one D-
Rex. :) A friend of mine graciously captured the video and sent it
to me, and I just uploaded it to the Files section for everyone else
to see. It's about a minute long and is 4.3 meg in AVI format (don't
shoot the messenger).
Direct Link:
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/files/stpatdel.avi
Enjoy!
-- Marty
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2003 00:17:06 -0000
From: "John Dore" <dmcjohn@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Porsche Motors in BTTF Deloreans
Hey Bob,
I don't think they used anything but original DeLorean engines in
the cars right throughout the trilogy... In BTTF3, when Marty is
going from 1955 to 1885, the car drives over the camera so you get a
view of the undercarriage, and in one of the frames you can clearly
see an original DMC oilpan, suggesting they stayed with the original
engines.
See ya,
John Dore, Ireland. #3810.
> Bob,
>
> After seeing the same information on the DVD a few months ago, I
did
> contact Stephen Clark (BTTF.com) to see if he had someone to
contact
> about verifying this info. He recommended trying a chat session
with
> Bob Gale scheduled earlier this year, but I could not get through
> with the question or he just ran out of time to answer every
request.
> I am still pursuing other contacts, with no verifiable details yet.
>
> As far as identifying the possible Porsche engines, the field does
> narrow quickly based upon the production periods of the movies.
>
> As for choice of Porsche engines, the flat six of the 911 models
> would have been a real challenge to fit in a Delorean without some
> substantial modifications to the engine cradle area. The early,
> normally aspirated 944 engines (4 cylinders) put out about the same
> amount of HP as the stock PRV V6, at 135HP through 1985.5 models.
> While the 944 Turbo engines put out substantially more HP, these
> engines were first offered in 1986 in the US, so the only Porsche
> Turbo 4 available for the first movie would be the 924 Turbo and
> that model made less HP than the normally aspirated early 944.
> However, Turbo engine transplants also imply complicated exhausts.
>
> Although I would have to listen to the details again to be sure,
but
> on the DVD, I think Bob and Bob alluded to more use of the Porsche
> engines in the second and third movies, allowing the possibility of
> using the later model 944 engines, either the 16 valve 944S engine
> or the even more powerful 944 S2, 16 vavle, 3.0 Liter 4 cylinder.
> The 944S is just shy of 190 HP, while the 944 S2 makes 210 HP.
>
> In any case, the engine sound used in the BTTF movies does not
appear
> to be a Porsche Turbo engine (they all have a distinct Turbo
whine),
> so it is much more likely that a modified 944 engine was used, for
an
> easier install or the air cooled, flat six was engineered into the
D.
>
> Until we find out from the BTTF gear head in charge, this topic
will
> probably keep us guessing for a while longer.
>
> Later,
> Rich W.
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxx> wrote:
> > Just finished watching all the detail stuff on the BTTF DVDs.
Early
> on
> > in the DVDs they talked about the Delorean having a 4 cylinder
which
> we
> > all thought was wrong.
> >
> > Well, in the third DVD they talk about the Delorean's being
> retrofitted
> > with more powerful Porsche engines. This is news to me, but the
> sound
> > from the engines in the movies is certainly reminiscent of
Porsche
> > exhaust systems.
> >
> > Anyway, who did these conversions.? Kevin Pike certainly did
> not..
> > Jay Orvis did not. Bob Boyce was not aware of this.
> >
> > It certainly was not a Porsche flat 6 (though the white wall
tired
> > Delorean may have been a Porsche/VW chassis.), Was it is a turbo
4
> > cylinder.? This may be probable since these were supposed to be
> more
> > powerful engines than the Ds.
> >
> > Well for those BTTF purists (HA! HA!), I guess we would have to
put
> > Porsche engines in our cars.
> >
> > BOB
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2003 20:24:53 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Cold help
Dale, When your working on 7,8,10mm 1.0 pitch fine threads it doesn't take a
lot of tightening to strip a thread. Some people when working on cars screw
thing s down till the aluminum wants to strip out the threads. Just tighten
them down snug. There are rubber O-rings on them so they don't have to be
torque to 5, 10 or so LB's. Just tight.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
<< I'm even more confused about this than you.
Does this mean open them all the way then turn them "lightly". Is lightly a
quarter turn or a half turn or a full turn? Does closed lightly mean they
should be nearly all the way closed then barely not closed?
Dale Funk
vin 4984
>>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2003 01:50:33 -0000
From: "John Hervey" <dherv10@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Used parts wanted
Group, It's time for me to post on the DML as well as other places.
I will buy or trade for old Delorean fuel system parts such as Fuel
distributors, warm up regilators, cold start valves and ECU's that
you may have laying around. As you know by the web site I have a lot
of things we can trade with. I am also looking for all kinds of old
electrical parts again like ECU's, relay sockets, wiring looms,
starters and some of the old relay's. There are some engine parts,
transmission parts and other things also.
I don't buy these to hoard, I buy them to recondition and sell or
trade back to the DeLorean owners. I have another person I just sold
a door piston to and he found out today the torsion bar was broke. I
have one drivers door left and thats it. Yes, I could hoard it, but
that's normally what I'm about. I bought it off ebay. Email me if you
have something to
trade or sell so I can recycle.
John Hervey
www.specialTauto.com
________________________________________________________________________
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