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There are 10 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Head lamps
From: "dmcboi <boy1der18@xxxxxxx>" <boy1der18@xxxxxxx>
2. Re: dead temperature gauge
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>"
<jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: CV Boot
From: "dmcboi <boy1der18@xxxxxxx>" <boy1der18@xxxxxxx>
4. schematics
From: Nick Ryan <nick@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Engine possibilites
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: performance cams????
From: "dmcboi <boy1der18@xxxxxxx>" <boy1der18@xxxxxxx>
7. Off topic favour required
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: CV Boot
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Lockzilla Remote Series 2 - Answers
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: How do I determine engine overheating damage?
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 16:26:52 -0000
From: "dmcboi <boy1der18@xxxxxxx>" <boy1der18@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Head lamps
Ken,
Contact D.A.R.T. and ask about the Xenon kit. It replaces all four
headlamps in one kit. The low beams are xenon (just like a BMW) and
the high beams are H1 bulbs. All of which are very bright!! The
kit costs about $450 plus shipping.
If you were at the Memphis show, you may have seen my car with these
lights on it. You'll love them! A good side note on these lights
is they actually draw less power than the halogen bulbs and run a
lot cooler! No worries about warping your fascia!
Ryan
> Delorean owners:
> Im looking for h4 headlamps to replace my sealed beam headlamps
does
> anyone know the place I could find them and the cost?
> And if anyone has tried installing them with success or failure
> #02700
> Thanks Ken
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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 15:37:47 -0000
From: "David Teitelbaum <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: dead temperature gauge
I would first check the wire to the sender unit on the front of the
motor on the right side. I does get knocked off when you work in that
area. I know the dipstick for the auto trans is on the left but maybe
somehow you knocked it off besides it is pretty easy to check before
tearing apart the dash.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, <eric@xxxx> wrote:
> Hey Everyone
>
> I have a strange problem- my temperature gauge is dead. To describe
it best, the needle is in the 5 o'clock position. The needle jumps a
bit when I turn the key from Off to On, but doesn't move as the car is
running. This happened today after I did a few little jobs to the car.
>
> Here's the last few things I did to the car, maybe someone will see
my mistake- 1) I removed the carpet that was blocking my driver-side
floor vent and tucked it underneath the vent 2) I just fixed my
speedometer, which consisted of replacing the wheel cap and oiling the
cable 3) I checked my fluids (automatic transmission).
>
> I have a feeling I've jerked something loose under the dashboard
trying to rearrange the carpet, but I wouldn't know where to begin. If
anyone has any insight on this one, I'd be much appreciative.
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> Eric Itzel
> Pigeon Forge, TN
> vin 4433
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 16:31:31 -0000
From: "dmcboi <boy1der18@xxxxxxx>" <boy1der18@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: CV Boot
John,
Contact D.A.R.T. (928-772-1191). I have new CV boot kits that have
the boot, clamps, and grease...all for $45 (that's one boot kit, the
car needs 4 total). These are new, not original stock, but OEM.
Don't worry, they are the correct boots for the LoBro CV joints.
Ryan
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, deloreanss@xxxx wrote:
> Does anyone know if the suppliers still sell CV boots? I have a
torn one, and
> I am looking to rebuild/replace the joint as well. I can't seem to
locate
> them on Delorean.com. Any ideas?
>
> John Weaver
> ETDOC
> RED DMC #10527
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 4
Date: 25 Feb 2003 16:59:15 +0000
From: Nick Ryan <nick@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: schematics
Hi all
I am missing page A:04:01 from the Delorean manual. I think this is the
page that had the diagram of the dimension of the car from profile top and
front/back. I was wondering if some-one could scan this in for me and post
it as a high enough resolution jpeg to me at my address.
Thanks in advance
Nick
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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 17:08:39 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Engine possibilites
Well option A is out the windows as there are no "off-the-shelf" even fire
cranks that
will fit the DeLorean's block and the odd-fire cranks aren't suitable for
"proper"
turboing. The Eagle crank is even fire and will fit the D's block but the
pistons
won't...
I can get a 400+ bhp turbo PRV built to order, based on the R25/Alpine
engine, but it'll
cost you...
There;s also the option of a 24v Modern PRV which is tuneable to over 300,
but again, not
cheap, but it would just drop in.
Martin
#1458
#4426
"dmcboi " wrote:
> Hello all!
>
> I just wanted to get some opinions as to what everyone would like to
> see as engine "upgrades". I was toying with the idea of building a
> twin turbo system; not just bolting one on. I mean actually
> starting from just the block and building a 300+ hp twin turbo that
> looks a lot like the Legend engine...
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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 16:36:15 -0000
From: "dmcboi <boy1der18@xxxxxxx>" <boy1der18@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: performance cams????
Adam,
Have no fear, and have patients.....D.A.R.T. is working on
performance cams.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Adam <acprice1@xxxx>"
<acprice1@xxxx> wrote:
> Can anyone recommend some performance cams for the PRV-6?
>
> what's the lift and duration of the stock cams?
>
> thanks,
> adam
> 16683
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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 17:13:19 -0000
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Off topic favour required
[Please respond privately - Mike Substelny DML moderator of the week]
With the work I am doing with an American company. We have today had an
article printed in the New York Times Business section. Being in England I
don't get a copy through the door.
Would somebody be kind enough to get me two copies of today's edition 25th
Feb and post them to me.
I will pay costs for postage and papers.
Cheers
Paul
#6463
http://www.paul.salsbury.btinternet.co.uk
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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 17:20:29 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: CV Boot
Commonly available in England for under £10 if you get stuck.
Martin
#1458
#4426
DOC UK
deloreanss@xxxxxxx wrote:
> Does anyone know if the suppliers still sell CV boots? I have a torn
one, and
> I am looking to rebuild/replace the joint as well. I can't seem to
locate
> them on Delorean.com. Any ideas?
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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 17:19:00 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Lockzilla Remote Series 2 - Answers
Just to clarify - the sum total of the modifications to my wiring in order
to fit my
Ultrastarters 2250M remote start/locks/alarm (available from
mypushcart.com for $109 inc
shipping) is a few scotch-locks, and in my case a pair of diodes so to
have it flash the
indicators and not the parking lights.
Yes, I'm just being pedantic, but I think it's important that people who
are capable of
playing with electrics shouldn't shy away from doing so.
NB The stock locking module CANNOT be trusted. An off-the-shelf remote
locking system can
be interfaced with the LockZilla, should you own one.
Martin
ZillaDelorean@xxxxxxx wrote:
> Special Thanks:
> I'd like to thank Martin for taking the time to to point out that cheap
> remote systems exist.
> Too bad none of them just plug into a DeLorean without modifying any of
the
> original wiring.
> If such devices were available I could redirect my energy.
>
> Bob Zilla
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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 25 Feb 2003 17:32:25 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: How do I determine engine overheating damage?
Hi Jaap
I guess the simplest test would be to let the car idle and keep an eye on
the temp guage.
Do the fans still cut in correctly before the needle hits the 220 mark?
I'm not
suggesting you keep the fan fail module, but you might just be lucky to
find it still
works. My car takes aaaaages to get up to temperature (>10 mins at idle)
which is a good
sign of a healthy cooling system
I read a while ago someone pointed out a plastic screen somewhere in the
oil system (?)
that if melted shows the car's overheated at some point.
When all's said and done though, what will fail are the head gaskets and
maybe the heads
themselves. This will give you a good excuse to knock the price down and
you can spend
the difference having the engine rebuilt (and having just replaced one
head on a friends
car, I can say that it's not all that difficult). The heads are identical
to those from a
Volvo 760 which are pretty common in scrapyards over here. We got a
replacement head,
complete with valves, machined flat (only a few microns mind) and checked
for £40.
Swapped the cam and took the opportunity to change the timing chains.
Bingo. You can also
replace the water pump, hoses, cap and rotor, all while you're in there
Martin
#1458
#4426
(and working on #2292 with a friend)
"sansuivintage " wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> I'm going to look at a DeLorean I'm interested in buying next week
> (for the second time). But as far as I could see the previous time,
> there are no updates done on the car, because there are no red dots
> and more importantly the original fan fail module is still in place.
>
> Now I'm worried there might be some engine damage, as a result from
> this (overheating). The car hasn't run much, just 24k miles in the
> Dutch climate (fairly cool), but still....
> Is there a simple way to find out if there might be engine damage?
> How can I go about this? And maybe you have more tips and things to
> check when buying a car like this.
>
> Any advice will be greatly appreciated!
>
> Thanks!
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