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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. RE: Ground Effects Kits and Aftermarket Spoilers
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
2. HP Gains & Free Flow Exhaust
From: dmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
3. Re: Brake Lights (again)
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
4. T-panel fix - but how to bend the tabs back??
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
5. DeLorean Sun Star Model
From: "Randal Atamaniuk" <martydmc12@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: age bracket poll
From: FEHRISMANN@xxxxxxx
7. New Age-Poll! Please vote!
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Frequency Valve Voltage
From: "Eric" <ericp@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
9. RE: T-panel fix - but how to bend the tabs back??
From: mrvideosawyer@xxxxxxxxxxxx
10. Re: DeLorean Sun Star Model
From: "ian" <ian@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: DeLorean Sun Star Model
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
12. new geometry front sway bar
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
13. epoxy damage from brake fluid
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
14. Setting the clock,
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
15. [ETDOC] Gatlinburg Gathering
From: nathan galloway <boomkari@xxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: epoxy damage from brake fluid
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: Setting the clock,
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
18. Re: epoxy damage from brake fluid
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
19. Re: [ETDOC] Gatlinburg Gathering
From: "S CAGLE" <sharkywtrs@xxxxxxx>
20. Re: Insurance for Ds at AIG - no more..
From: pbmain@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
21. ForSale: Engine Parts
From: pbmain@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
22. Re: T-panel fix - but how to bend the tabs back??
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
23. Re: HP Gains & Free Flow Exhaust
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
24. Re: Re: DeLorean Sun Star Model
From: "Randal Atamaniuk" <martydmc12@xxxxxxxxxxx>
25. Re: DeLorean Sun Star Model
From: "Randal Atamaniuk" <martydmc12@xxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 08:19:46 -0500
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Ground Effects Kits and Aftermarket Spoilers
PJ Grady sells them
-----Original Message-----
From: Rustproof [mailto:Rustproof@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2001 1:17 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Ground Effects Kits and Aftermarket Spoilers
Does anyone out there remember where to get the really low aftermarket
side-skirt and front spoiler ground effects kits? I have checked the
archives, but have not found a supplier. If anyone has a kit in any
condition that they would be willing to part with, please contact me
privately at :Rustproof@xxxxxxxxxxx Thanks.
Rustproof
vin 1559
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Sun, 04 Nov 2001 12:46:09 -0000
From: dmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: HP Gains & Free Flow Exhaust
Hi all,
I have spoken to a couple of people who have had the new free flow
exhaust system fitted in the UK and have been told that the
difference is very noticeable.
I think Cat's were probably still in the early stages of refinement
when the DeLorean was being produced and they have probably become
less restrictive and so less detrimental to performance over the
past 20 years.
I am having a free flow exhaust fitted to my D hopefully in the next
month or so it's about £800.00 including taxes & fitting. If it
takes the bhp from 130 to 167 then that works out at an increase of
37bhp at £22 per 1 bhp.
I will post my findings when I have had the new exhaust fitted and
let you know what the difference is.
James RG
England
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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 04:34:46 EST
From: njp548@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Brake Lights (again)
In a message dated 11/4/01 1:46:11 AM Eastern Standard Time,
theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx writes:
<< Not neccessarily. In early cars, the brake lights were only hot when
the key was turned to acc or run.
>>
How early is early? My car is vin #1852 june 81 build and the brake lights
have a constant power going to them. I guess another "oddity" to add to the
rest of them, eh?
Later,
Nick Pitello
1852
<A HREF="" href="Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548">Http://members.aol.com/njp548</A>
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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 03:09:14 EST
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: T-panel fix - but how to bend the tabs back??
Hey guys,
i got my T-panel/passenger door rubbing it fixed. in case anyone is
wondering:
the reason the doors hit the T-panel is probably not due to the horizontal
alignment of the panel. rather, it is a consequence of the T-panel being too
LOW!
i talked to DMCJoe the other day and he told me that from the factory, there
were a couple of foam strips that helped support the T-panel on the door
hinge box, which runs the length of the doors and the hinges are bolted to
it. anyway, over time these foam strips deteriorate, leaving the T-panel
lower than it is supposed to be. the doors now hit the panel about 2/3 of
the way up. sure enough, my foam was gone. Joe told me go to Home Depot and
get some of the insulation you get for doors - it's about 3/4" thick, 1/2"
wide, with a self-adhesive side to it. i just ran two long strips the length
of the T-panel, then a couple more perpendicular to them in the middle. i
then mounted the T-panel and checked the doors - perfect!! the only hitch
was that the foam was a little bit too thick for the panel, it actually
pushed it up TOO high. fortunately i'm a small guy and i took my shoes off
and carefully slid onto the roof of the car and used my body weight to press
the T-panel downward and compress the foam. after a couple minutes of this,
it was the right height.
best of all, it didn't even cost me more than $1.50 to fix it!!
i just have one question - what is the best way to bend the 4 tabs back down
on the T-Panel? i used a flathead screwdriver to open them, but now i have
to close them, but i dont want to break or scratch anything... anyone got a
good way to do it?
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 03 Nov 2001 22:32:02 -0800
From: "Randal Atamaniuk" <martydmc12@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DeLorean Sun Star Model
To my surprise, my local Toys R'Us had a about dozen of the new die-cast
cars out for sale today. Both the car and packaging really stand out among
the other die-cast vehicles. In fact, another fella in the isle took one
also. And the girl cashing me out even went nuts over it, saying "isn't
that the Back to the Future car"!
I ended up picking up four of them, opening two. They're extremely
detailed. It's as if someone took a full-sized DMC-12 and shrunk it down to
a foot long. One problem with them though, a problem which I consider to be
something major; the gullwing doors don't stay open. They keep falling
down. It's a huge disappointment, as it's what I consider to be one of the
most important features to a DeLorean. I think Sun Star better take a look
at this problem before the release the Back to the Future & Gold-Plated
version, as I would think many people who purchase this will be disappointed
at the fact that these doors don't want to stay up.
Randy
Vin #16353
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 3 Nov 2001 11:47:51 EST
From: FEHRISMANN@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: age bracket poll
[MODERATOR'S NOTE: The polls settings allows for the end of the poll to be set as desired. My understanding is that the polling mechanism already only permits each person to vote once. The interim tally for an ongoing poll is visible, so the running tallies are already available for open polls.]
Hi all,
Why not have an ongoing poll? Or an annual poll? I'm sure more people join
the list every day. Some people check the list weekly and just delete some
of the ongoing voluminous letters. I for one did not vote and would now if I
could. (I'm 51.) Whomever administers it would have to keep track with
weekly or monthly tallys. He also would have to watch out that someone
doesn't accidentally vote twice. If that person who originally did it
doesn't want the chore of constantly updating the results, I wouldn't blame
him. It's just a thought.
Frank
VIN: 16509
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 13:32:07 -0600
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: New Age-Poll! Please vote!
I created TWO new Age group polls.
One is for OWNERS, the other is WANT-TOs. Please vote in only one category--
and naturally the appropriate one.
But please,do vote-- whether you voted before or not!
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews/polls
That's the path. Click there, and log in if you aren't caching your
credentials in cookies.
This poll will not automatically conclude... that obviously didn't work out
so well. It will remain open indefinitely but it will update the tallies
with each vote. It also "remembers" your vote and will allow you to change
you vote if have a birthday that bumps you up in the near future.
If you are having problems loggin in... good luck. I forgot my "yahoo"
username and password for a while. Yahoogroups' tech support seems to be
non-existant. Fortunately, I remembered what I set my username to when I
updated my egroups membership to yahoogroups. Part of my problem was that my
first choice was taken so I had to use my second choice username. The perils
of 'net life, eh?
---------
I read this somewhere:
"most experts agree that the end of the world will come by accident, most
likely. That's where we come in; we're Computer Experts, we make accidents."
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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 04 Nov 2001 17:49:37 -0000
From: "Eric" <ericp@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Frequency Valve Voltage
Does anyone know what the VOLTAGE going to the frequency valve should
be.
I understand that the valve (which is really just an electronic
injector) operates at 70 cycles per second - and that this can't be
measured by a voltmeter.
However, I have a pulse signal (viewed on my oscilloscope) that is
about the correct frequency, and has a pulse width of about 80 / 20.
What I don't know is what the AMPLITUDE should be. I'm only measuring
about 0.5 volts (during the "ON" cycle) and I'm trying to determine
if this is actually enough to energize the valve.
The goal here is to trouble shoot a problem in the valve's coil, or
the ECU drive circuit.
1) I can "hear" the valve buzzing.
2) I have confirmed fuel pressure on the input side of the valve
3) I have NO Fuel on the output side of the valve.
-could be clogged
-could be not driven to open fully at each cycle by the ECU.
-could be a partial short in the coil
Does anyone know the amplitude of the drive signal to this valve?
I'm not willing to just "shotgun" and replace the valve w/o some more
diag. here. :-)
Thanks
Eric
VIN# 5557
Dunedin, FL
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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 04 Nov 2001 13:17:06 -0500
From: mrvideosawyer@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: T-panel fix - but how to bend the tabs back??
Group,
I have never been satisfied with the foam rebuild of the T-Panel. My solution is to uses self expanding foam. First clean all goop off and then lay down two strips of foam on the fiberglass body top. Let foam expand a bit and then lay t panel in foam. The foam will still expand a bit, so put 1x4s on t panel from door to door and weight down. The foam will expand to the perfect height.
Jim Sawyer
vin 4149
"it's not red anymore"
__________________________________________________________________
Your favorite stores, helpful shopping tools and great gift ideas. Experience the convenience of buying online with Shop@Netscape! http://shopnow.netscape.com/
Get your own FREE, personal Netscape Mail account today at http://webmail.netscape.com/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2001 05:27:15 +0800
From: "ian" <ian@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Sun Star Model
Hi Randal,
> One problem with them though, ... the gullwing doors don't stay open.
The doors on my SunStar model do stay open ... even after a week of
"play"!!!
Cheers, IAN (Hong Kong)
***************************
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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 04 Nov 2001 23:47:39 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DeLorean Sun Star Model
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Randal Atamaniuk" <martydmc12@xxxx> wrote:
<SNIP>
>I think Sun Star better take a look
> at this problem before the release the Back to the Future & Gold-
Plated
> version...
<SNIP>
Is there an e-mail adress that anyone knows to to contact them for
feedback? Not trying to be a geek, but there are a couple of items
I've noticed on the prototype BTTF car from Sunstar that are
incorrect. Looks like they used one of the cars that were built for
BTTF the Ride as a model, and not one from the movie...
Also, it is apparent that these models are now available as eBay has
now got a slew of them available!
-Robert
vin 6585
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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 13:48:32 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: new geometry front sway bar
Having an off list discussion about solving the sway problem has made me do
some more thinking about making a better design. I am not really waiting on
DMC Houston to come out with their new design. If they ever do then great!
Otherwise, I enjoy solving puzzles. For recreation I can sit and play with
a Rubik's cube, or I can solve engineering challenges on my car. I choose
the later.
That said, I would like some opinions from list members about what they
think of the shape of the original sway bar. I was just looking at one this
morning wondering why the bar curves down on both sides in front of the
lower control arms. I see no reason for this other than perhaps it was a
MISTAKE! If this curve where on a horizontal plane instead of vertical, it
would make since to have it there. It could keep the bar out of the way of
the wheels on sharp turns. But with the curve aiming down, it serves
absolutely no purpose that I can see.
If anyone has an opinion about this, please let me know.
Walt Tampa, FL
[MODERATOR'S NOTE: Rather than responding with opinion as Walt
solicits, I think it is probably more interesting to respond
with some data/facts/information. Please forward opinion/speculation
responses directly to Walt, but feel free to submit informative
responses to the list.]
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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 20:28:57 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: epoxy damage from brake fluid
I just found out that my coolant leak wasn't a coolant leak. It was a brake
fluid leak, and it went around the fuel tank and puddled under the fuel tank
cover. In places, this has softened the epoxy to a rubber-like substance.
What I would like to know is if anyone knows of a good paint for the frame
and tank cover that is not affected by brake fluid. I suppose that in
another 20 years or so that I or someone else may be dealing with a leaky
master cylinder again on this car, and I'd hate to have it damage the paint
again.
Also, once brake fluid has damaged the epoxy, if cleaned and given enough
time, will the epoxy re-harden? There are a lot of places where brake fluid
has gotten on the epoxy. Should I repaint all of these spots? It would be
a lot of work.
I hear a lot of good things about POR-15 to be used on the frame, but what
about a brake fluid resistant paint for a top coat?
I'm thinking really hard about making an aluminum frame (if that is
feasible) or getting one of those stainless frames from Pierce Design. With
a junker frame sitting in the yard, I'm planning on repairing damage to it
and having it hot dipped galvanized just to see if it wrinkles too much.
Has anyone actually tried this before?
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 19:50:55 EST
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
Subject: Setting the clock,
OK, something simple that most DeLorean owners probably don't
worry about, but how do you set the clock on the dash? I have tried
pressing in on the "buttons" with a pen but all I succeeded in doing
was pushing the clock down and off its place in the dash a bit.
Is there a better way to change the clock?
Richard
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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 17:19:47 -0800 (PST)
From: nathan galloway <boomkari@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [ETDOC] Gatlinburg Gathering
hello
i just wanted to thank everyone for a great weekend in
gatlinburg. we had a lot of laughs (hey YO) and a
wonderful time. THe smoky mountains were great and
fully plan on attending the feburary event. i stronly
encourage everyone in the area (or almost in the area)
to join us next time. Once again thanks to everyone
espically aaron for his generosity and planning.
byebyebyebyeybeybeybyebyebyebyeybeybeye
nathan
boomkari@xxxxxxxxxxx
1981 5220
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Find a job, post your resume.
http://careers.yahoo.com
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 16
Date: Mon, 05 Nov 2001 02:30:20 -0000
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: epoxy damage from brake fluid
I've never found ANY paint that is brake-fluid resistant. Even POR15.
The only way you could treat a frame to be impervious to it would be
to galvanize it.
This is harder than it sounds because you have to get the epoxy off
first. The only effective way to do that is heat. It's impossible to
get the epoxy off the inside boxed in areas without cutting parts of
the frame open and then re-welding it. The galvanizing process will
loosen any epoxy you miss and turn it into a globby mess. It will
also fill in all the holes in the frame, like where suspension parts
are attached and screws threaded in. It takes a lot of time.
Galvanizing has been done, there was a writeup on it in DeLorean
World a few years ago.
Fixing what you have is a lot of work, but a whole lot less than
galvanizing. If you are really worried about the brake fluid problem,
change the master before it leaks, say every 10 years or so. A lot
cheaper in the long run.
BTW - the epoxy that has been damaged will eventually harden back up
somewhat but it will not re-adhere itself to the frame. May as well
strip it off now.
Dave
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Walter" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> I just found out that my coolant leak wasn't a coolant leak. It
was a brake
> fluid leak, and it went around the fuel tank and puddled under the
fuel tank
> cover. In places, this has softened the epoxy to a rubber-like
substance.
>
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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 21:34:00 EST
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: Setting the clock,
Wait until noon or midnight and pull the fuse in the relay compartment, then
install the fuse. Then the clock will default to 12:00. Or buy a new clock.
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Message: 18
Date: Mon, 05 Nov 2001 03:56:31 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: epoxy damage from brake fluid
If you can keep the brake fluid (paint remover) off the epoxy it will
eventually reharden but it will discolor. The best paint match is
Krylon Smoke Grey available at Home Depot or any large paint store.
This is one reason why it is good to change to DOT 5 silicone brake
fluid. As tempting a reason as this may be I still recommend staying
with DOT 4. This reason isn't good enough as you really can't tolerate
any brake fluid leaks no matter what type you use. If the brake fluid
hasn't been changed in the last 2 years it is time to flush the system
with fresh Castrol DOT 4. If a 5-speed don't forget the clutch. This
may cause the systems to leak but they where going bad anyway, you
just sped it up a little with the CLEAN fluid in there instead of the
mud you where using. The ultimate is powder coating as it is
unaffected by brake fluid. Galvanizing the frame will cause distortion
and add a lot of weight besides there aren't too many places with a
tank large enough.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Walter" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> I just found out that my coolant leak wasn't a coolant leak. It was
a brake
> fluid leak, and it went around the fuel tank and puddled under the
fuel tank
> cover. In places, this has softened the epoxy to a rubber-like
substance.
> What I would like to know is if anyone knows of a good paint for the
frame
> and tank cover that is not affected by brake fluid. I suppose that
in
> another 20 years or so that I or someone else may be dealing with a
leaky
> master cylinder again on this car, and I'd hate to have it damage
the paint
> again.
>
> Also, once brake fluid has damaged the epoxy, if cleaned and given
enough
> time, will the epoxy re-harden? There are a lot of places where
brake fluid
> has gotten on the epoxy. Should I repaint all of these spots? It
would be
> a lot of work.
>
> I hear a lot of good things about POR-15 to be used on the frame,
but what
> about a brake fluid resistant paint for a top coat?
>
> I'm thinking really hard about making an aluminum frame (if that is
> feasible) or getting one of those stainless frames from Pierce
Design. With
> a junker frame sitting in the yard, I'm planning on repairing damage
to it
> and having it hot dipped galvanized just to see if it wrinkles too
much.
> Has anyone actually tried this before?
>
> Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2001 21:38:53 -0500
From: "S CAGLE" <sharkywtrs@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [ETDOC] Gatlinburg Gathering
Hey Yo-
I second Nathan's comments. Aaron again has outdone himself, and his planning and generosity poured over into a GREAT time for the whole group. Anyone who is in the area and has not attended an ETDOC gathering, I would strongly recommend the next one. As expected, I had my mandatory overheat of some part of the car. This time, unfortunately, it was the engine, right down the main strip of Gatlinburg. That aside, the great time we all had was well worth the scare. See everyone in February!!!!
Scott
16738
(AKA Smokey Joe)
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 20
Date: Mon, 05 Nov 2001 03:15:46 -0000
From: pbmain@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Insurance for Ds at AIG - no more..
After reading some postings on insurance, wanted to drop a quick note
about my recent hassles...
Two weeks ago I called for a quote on adding what would turn out to
be my future Delorean to my AIG policy. Got a quote, pricing, no
problem. Move forward a week, I was organizing to pick up the car
and called AIG to add the car to the policy, and they gave me the
runaround. First there was some talk about "If we insure Deloreans
at all" then it was "I'm not sure if we cover Deloreans in Michigan",
then after 20 minutes of going back and forth, they give me the
excuse "We cannot add you to the policy because you could take the
car to a car show and we don't want to get involved if something
happened to other exotic cars at such events". This was definitely
strange...
It gets better.. (kind of) So, I ranted and raved to no avail...then
hung up, called right back, and spoke to someone who asked a new set
of questions, and they added the Delorean to the policy without a
hassle.
Three days later, I receive a call from AIG saying that they added
the car in error because there was a chance I "might take the car to
car shows" and that they would honor the existing policy for the 6
months, but I would have to search for insurance after that time.
So! It's over to Hagerty or something in April...
Pete
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Message: 21
Date: Mon, 05 Nov 2001 03:22:43 -0000
From: pbmain@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: ForSale: Engine Parts
I have about 4 PRV engines that I'm parting out, one which was
adapted for some sort of Turbo use. Let me know what you're looking
for... I'd like to sell some of this to make some room and finance
some upgrades on my car...
Let me know what you're looking for...
Pete
pbweb(at)mindspring.com
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Message: 22
Date: Mon, 05 Nov 2001 03:24:37 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: T-panel fix - but how to bend the tabs back??
The tabs hold the plastic rear valence in place so they should be
approx horizontal. If they are bent downward you will have to remove
the "T" panel and straighten them. They do not have to be bent to
remove the "T" panel. Be real careful with the plastic valence as they
are made out of unatainableium. (Ha Ha) While you have the "T" panel
off remove the rectangular metal plate and check inside for any rust.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Soma576@xxxx wrote:
> Hey guys,
>
> i got my T-panel/passenger door rubbing it fixed. in case anyone is
> wondering:
>
> the reason the doors hit the T-panel is probably not due to the
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 23
Date: Mon, 05 Nov 2001 03:42:35 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: HP Gains & Free Flow Exhaust
The exhaust system and the cat on the Delorean is restrictive. It is
technically illegal in the U.S. to tamper or modify anything that
affects the pollution control systems. That being said the PRV-6 in
the Delorean will pass ANY state's tailpipe and dyno test without a
cat.(In fact the manual says to measure ahead of the cat with a hose
set-up.) The only problem is that they are supposed to visually verify
that there is a cat on the car. The best way around that is to gut the
insides of the cat. To probably do the ultimate would be to create a
true dual exhaust set-up with 2 gutted cats with tuned headers if you
can manage the room. With a free-flowing exhaust the intake will then
become the problem with the air box and stove pipe causing the most
trouble. After dealing with these elements now the CIS will be the
limiting element. There are a lot of tricks that can be preformed on
the air mixture unit before you have to consider ripping it off and
trying to reengineer the fuel system. If you are seriously considering
EFI look into turbos as they are as close to bolt-on as you can get as
opposed to EFI. Although EFI has interesting possibilites it is beyond
the abilities of most mechanics to install. A simpler install is just
a carburater. I heard of a member of Delorean Midatlantic who put a
carb on his "D" because he had too much trouble with his Bosch. The
fellow has since passed on but his "D" is still running!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, dmc12@xxxx wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> I have spoken to a couple of people who have had the new free flow
> exhaust system fitted in the UK and have been told that the
> difference is very noticeable.
>
> I think Cat's were probably still in the early stages of refinement
> when the DeLorean was being produced and they have probably become
> less restrictive and so less detrimental to performance over the
> past 20 years.
>
> I am having a free flow exhaust fitted to my D hopefully in the next
> month or so it's about £800.00 including taxes & fitting. If it
> takes the bhp from 130 to 167 then that works out at an increase of
> 37bhp at £22 per 1 bhp.
>
> I will post my findings when I have had the new exhaust fitted and
> let you know what the difference is.
>
>
> James RG
> England
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 24
Date: Sun, 04 Nov 2001 20:45:11 -0800
From: "Randal Atamaniuk" <martydmc12@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: DeLorean Sun Star Model
When Star Star was developing the BTTF DeLorean, they went to Universal
Studios Hollywood and took many detailed photos of the BTTF DMC-12 on the
backlot. The problem is, up until a couple of months ago, the BTTF DMC-12
was not up to spec. It didn't have the proper Mr. Fusion, just a piece of
plastic, among many other things. So, any of the problems existing with the
BTTF DeLorean can be directly blamed towards Universal for not keeping
proper up-keep. Sun Star just followed the photos they took of the car.
In the meantime, BTTF.com has detected the many problems and has addressed
them to Sun Star.
Randy
Vin #16353
>--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Randal Atamaniuk" <martydmc12@xxxx> wrote:
><SNIP>
> >I think Sun Star better take a look
> > at this problem before the release the Back to the Future & Gold-
>Plated
> > version...
><SNIP>
>
>Is there an e-mail adress that anyone knows to to contact them for
>feedback? Not trying to be a geek, but there are a couple of items
>I've noticed on the prototype BTTF car from Sunstar that are
>incorrect. Looks like they used one of the cars that were built for
>BTTF the Ride as a model, and not one from the movie...
>
>Also, it is apparent that these models are now available as eBay has
>now got a slew of them available!
>
>-Robert
>vin 6585
>
>
>
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>
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Message: 25
Date: Sun, 04 Nov 2001 20:47:54 -0800
From: "Randal Atamaniuk" <martydmc12@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DeLorean Sun Star Model
I've opened two cars, and both have very weak/loose doors from the moment I
pulled them out of the box.
Randy
Vin #16353
>Hi Randal,
>
> > One problem with them though, ... the gullwing doors don't stay open.
>
>The doors on my SunStar model do stay open ... even after a week of
>"play"!!!
>
>Cheers, IAN (Hong Kong)
>***************************
>
>
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
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>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
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>
>
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