dmcnews-digest Thursday, April 2 1998 Volume 03 : Number 346
In this issue:
DML: painted delorean
DML: More on Governor Computers.
DML: Auto Trans Computer
DML: ASI radio replacment
RE: DML: transmission swap
Re: DML: Re: DeLoreans in Michigan
DML: RE: transmission swap
[Fwd: DML: painted delorean]
Re: DML: Re:Re:automatic transmission
DML: Engine Idle fuel pressure?
DML: Final Call Cincinnati Car Show
Re: DML: Insurance
DML: Re: Agreed Value Insurance
DML: Facia paint removal
DML: Vinyl coated leather?
DML: fyi: 4 for sale in Dallas area
Re: DML: Facia paint removal
DML: Re: wheel color
DML: Doors opening too far/fast
DML: Auto transmission
DML: ASI radio replacment
DML: governor replaced
DML: Vinyl coated leather?
Re: DML: Facia paint
Re: DML: Facia paint
DML: Re: Re: wheel color
Re: DML: Doors opening too far/fast
DML: Rear side windows
Re: DML: ASI radio replacment
Re: DML: Facia paint
DML: Reservations/T-shirts
DML: Cincinnati Car Show update
DML: Voltage spikes and damage to electrical system
DML: Oil sender availability
Re: DML: Oil sender availability
DML: Re: Oil sender availability
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 16:03:06 -0500
From: bvaillancourt@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx (Benoit Vaillancourt)
Subject: DML: painted delorean
Hey!
I would like to know if it's possible to remove paint on a
delorean... and restore its original shape and stainless "color... (e.g.:
Red Delorean ---> Original stainless steel color)???
Thanks...
Benoit Vaillancourt
bvaillancourt@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 18:35:09 -0600
From: "Hershey, Mark" <MHershey@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: More on Governor Computers.
Mike, glad to see you have your D nearly back amongst the living.
I am interested in your thoughts about a redesign-- especially if you are
serious about doing one. I have no financial interest in doing so (just
love
the car and don't like to see people spend $400 or more without getting
more
than they had!) and I have even less available time for design work these
days.(teenagers!)
You correctly surmised that the existing circuits shouldn't work well when
electrically far away from a low-voltage signal source. They don't have
to,
as it turns out. The Governor's alternator puts out a fairly high voltage-
as I recall about 15-25 Vac depending on speed and throttle position, so
it
pretty much swamps the electrical noise level.
I agree that the best thing to do would be to start over on a design,
rather
than simply repair the old ones and add spike supressors or something. I
was
going to use a PIC microprocessor as a controller, rectify the AC voltage
from the governor's alternator and run it through the PIC's simple
internal
Analog/digital converter so the PIC can read speed/throttle position.
Planned on using the existing alternator/throttle position as the input,
rather than some reluctance-type off-the-halfshaft arrangement simply
because it's there already, doesn't seem to be a failure point, and I
wouldn't have to come up with some other throttle position sensor.
Wouldn't
be as accurate as your design, though.
I should point out also that the governor assy's AC generator and throttle
position sensor remain sealed even if you totally remove the circuit
boards-- they are molded in and as far as I could see can't be accessed
withought cracking open and destroying the yellow Alternator housing. No
real disadvantage as far a a seal, as you'll see when you get yours open.
The cable between the transmission and the two circuit boards carries the
solenoid wires and also the backup light and neutral start inhibit signals
(switch contacts inside the transmission!). The Governor electronics drive
the solenoids, and use the Neutral switch to force both solenoids ON if
you
manually put the car in Neutral (I think- been about 5 years since I
looked
at this stuff). The Neutral and Backup signals are also routed to other
parts of the car(relays)-- any replacement circuits would also have to
route
these signals.
I'd love to see a replacement-- and I have no real access to low cost
fabrication facilities. So, please let us all know what you think after
you
crack open your old one.
Mark H.
>Date: Fri, 27 Mar 1998 23:39:49 -0500
>From: "Mike Thomas" <comptrol@xxxxxxx>
>Subject: DML: Auto trans. governor
>
(SNIP)
>I am also an electronics type, which leads to the following observations:
>
>1. I am shocked that mounting the governor brains anywhere but right next
>to the cheesy generator works - I would expect electrical noise to wreak
>havoc with such a low voltage signal (or maybe it isn't).
>
>2. If we devised a replacement, wouldn't it be better to use a prox
>switch
>looking at CV joint bolts or something? It would be a simpler interface
>and
>hassle-free PCB layout. My company routinely uses this method to measure
>speed with great accuracy (not that we really need it in this case). This
>approach would also allow the thing to be mounted elsewhere, and you could
>leave the dead one in place for the seal.
>
>3. I have a dirt cheap source for PCB fabrication who will do a double
>sided board with no solder mask or silkscreen for probably less than
>+ACQ-10 for
>a project this size.
>
(SNIP)
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 01:02:42 EST
From: MMartin478 <MMartin478@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Auto Trans Computer
I bought my D 5 yrs ago from the original owner ( including all service
records,window sticker,most back issues of Delorean World and De Gull
Wing )
and have driven it every day since. About 4 yrs ago I replaced the trans
computer and it was fine until about a month ago.This morning I ordered a
new
computer from my local Chrysler dealer and I pick it up tomorrow(local
stock).When Renault pulled out of the US , Chrysler picked up the parts
distribution network.Here are the details: part # T1585496,description :
harness.Cost in 1994:list 310.00,net 232.50.Cost now:list 494.00,net
348.00.Most dealers will work with you on price (tell them you are in a
MOPAR
club).I also have 2 dead computers (soon to be 3) that a friend and I have
disassembled with the idea of reverse engineering them to a more robust
configuration.To date we have cross referenced all of the circuit board
components ( to our surprise,several of the components were already
military
grade IE; broad temp.rating).We did notice that there is virtually no
surge/over voltage protection on the board so next week we will build the
surge protection device detailed by Marc Goldstone in the 87 summer
Delorean
World (by the way, does anyone know how to get in touch with him?).We are
also
playing around with the idea of building a test fixture and a single
board re-
layout of the design.Does anyone have access to any engineering data on
the
computer?Reverse engineering is fun but time consuming.
Hope some of this info helps.
Milt Martin
Vin #6370
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 17:58:47 -0800
From: "Ken Montgomery" <kenm@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: ASI radio replacment
I'm getting ready to replace the stock ASI radio in my car. While the
radio and cassette works, the sound quality is rather substandard
compared to even the most modest 90's car stereos. While is really
don't want to alter the car, I need to have a reasonable quality of
sound. I use cassettes and will add a CD changer. Plus since the
original radio is currently working, I don't want to damage it. So, I
am looking for a BROKEN ASI radio. What I plan to do is build a false
front for my new Sony radio (DIN style, removable face) to make it
look as if I still has the original radio in the car. All I need in
good shape is the face of the radio itself and the faceplate. Or if
anyone has mounted their stereo somewhere else in the car, I'd love to
hear the details.
Ken Montgomery
VIN# 10911
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 18:08:20 -0800
From: "tomcio" <tomcio@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: DML: transmission swap
Hi,
Well, I wouldn't try swapping the transmission in a DeLorean. I
haven't try it myself, but I heard from other people who did, that
it's not worth it. The frame of an automatic is so much diffrent that
the best way to do it, is to get a diffrent frame (for manual). And
that is a lot of money. So, my advice is that if you want manual
transmission, you should get a car with one already in it.
Good luck,
Tom
VIN 6298 (automatic)
wzach.lehrer.htl.htl-braunau@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote on
Monday March 30, 1998 at 7:00am:
>Did anyone out there ever change the automatic
>transmission to a manual transmission ?
>I was told by a Renault-workplace that they
>did this often to R30 and R25 because of the
>reliability problems and poor performance.
>Is this work useful for DeLOREANs ?
>
>Mfg Wolfgang
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 21:57:30 EST
From: RMoore2208 <RMoore2208@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Re: DeLoreans in Michigan
I live in michigan and have two in my town, email me privately for more
info,
both are about 3 minutes away from my home. I am 40 min from detroit.
- -RM
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 30 Mar 1998 22:54:29 -0600
From: Duke <at88mph@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: RE: transmission swap
I believe Don Steger of DeLorean Motor Company in Calif has done these
conversions. His number is 714-554-6794.
Hope this helps,
Duke
>-----Original Message-----
>From: wzach.lehrer.htl.htl-braunau@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>[SMTP:wzach.lehrer.htl.htl-braunau@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
>Sent: Monday, March 30, 1998 8:21 AM
>To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: DML: transmission swap
>
>Did anyone out there ever change the automatic
>transmission to a manual transmission ?
>I was told by a Renault-workplace that they
>did this often to R30 and R25 because of the
>reliability problems and poor performance.
>Is this work useful for DeLOREANs ?
>
>Mfg Wolfgang
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 09:02:10 +0000
From: James Nichols <jhnichols@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [Fwd: DML: painted delorean]
Benoit Vaillancourt wrote:
> Hey!
> I would like to know if it's possible to remove paint on a
> delorean... and restore its original shape and stainless "color... (e.g.:
> Red Delorean ---> Original stainless steel color)???
>
> Thanks...
> Benoit Vaillancourt
> bvaillancourt@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Chances are that if you strip a painted Delorean, you will find bondo. It
is much cheaper to use bondo to repair damage and paint the entire car
than
to repair or replace a stainless panel. Body shops do not know how to
repair stainless.
You may be able to find a welder who builds and/or repairs stainless
tanks.
He would be able to cut out the damage, weld in a new piece, grind the
welds
and brush out the surface to match. A new panel may be less expensive,
bondo
defenitely is.
Jim
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 17:32:00 +0100
From: wzach.lehrer.htl.htl-braunau@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: Re:Re:automatic transmission
> From: Yugoman@xxxxxxxxx (Ralph Isenberg)
> Date sent: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 01:35:14 -0500
> To: wzach.lehrer.htl.htl-braunau@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: DML: Re:Re:automatic transmission
> My power window switches put the windows down, but not up again. How
> much to repair two switches?
>
>
The same happened to my switches, put the window down but not up
again. This happens if the contact blade inside the switch is
corroded. One has to dismantle the switch and sand the contact blade,
the trick is to dismantle the switch carefully and put in a selfmade
secure clamp to prevent the springs of puzzling the complete switch
into pieces.
I will do this for no charge (maybe there is sometimes something you
can do for me) if you care for the cost of carrage to me and back to
you (i have to ask for the cost of airmail to USA).
I am living in Austria / Europe (!) -> where are you from ?
MfG Wolfgang
VIN #2219
DMC_2hot4u@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 11:35:39 -0600
From: "Jameel Ahed" <ahed@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Engine Idle fuel pressure?
Dear DML,
I finally finished my car... I have a few small bugs to work out
though. I put in a new fuel pump and accumulator and tried adjusting my
idle mixture. Before I did any adjusting I noticed that when starting the
car (when cold) my starter really has to crank the engine over a a few
times... well for say 5 seconds before it starts.. I am not touching the
gas pedal when starting. The funny thing is, is before I pulled my engine
and did all the work it used to start before I even hard the starter
motor... It would start on the first combustion cycle.. (It was really
awesome back then) Now I got a new fuel accumulator and new fuel pump ( I
guess the pump is an 82 style upgrade... from Rob Grady (of course))
Anyway, Everything is new, I don't see any leaks... but it seems like I am
not holding the fuel pressure or the accumulator is not doing its job,
but I
also know that the accumulator is for hot starts.. it does start hot, well
it will start on the first combustion cycle 5 minutes after I shut it off,
so I guess there is not enough time for the fuel pressure to leak out.
Could it be my 81 fuel pump had a better valve for holding pressure?
About the pulsing at idle. I know it is suppose to do this but what is a
good range for the pulse. My car, when it does finally idle perfectly is
at
a good 750 or 780 rpm. When I let go of the gas (I have a 5 speed) It
does
not drop to 750 fast... (it used to do that) but now it drops to 1000 and
then slowly goes to 750. I think my air fuel mixture for my idle control
should have just been left alone but instead stupid me... hunts it down
drills out the plug and adjusts it.. Hey I atleast got rid of the rumble
at
idle.. my car doesn't shake when it idles but it just doesn't idle right..
What is this about the ECU... It takes a few 100 miles to really learn
and
adjust for what the 02 sensor is telling it. Is this true? Should I just
drive for a while and let it "learn"?
Everything is brand new so I don't think it is part failure... but it
could
be... Thank you
Jameel
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 13:31:14 EST
From: KKoncelik <KKoncelik@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Final Call Cincinnati Car Show
Its getting down the end of registration time and the response has been
great.
There will be a number of new catagories for the under 50K daily drivers
since
so many are entered. each group will be limited to six entries.
For those of you who are not aware of the event it check out the web site
at
<A HREF="" href="http://idt.net/~dmc1219">http://idt.net/~dmc1219">http://idt.net/~dmc1219</A>
Many of the groups will be setting up tables to sell or display their
DeLorean
items.
If you have any questions please e-mail me at kkoncelik@xxxxxxx
HOTEL SPACE IS BECOMING LIMITED
an alternate site will be used if the Comfort Suite sells out.
Again thanks for your support and I will see you in June.
Ken
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 14:11:39 -0500
From: Marc A Levy <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Insurance
YES! A lot of information in the back issues on this topic!
You may want to ask for a "Agreed Value" policy. Ther are usualy a bit
cheaper, and there is no negotiation if you make a claim.
Jordan Gary wrote:
>
> I suggest that you review the last few months of this mail. Several
> suggestions have been made. I currently have State Farm and am very happy
> with them. My rate is quite modest here in Texas. I got my car
> recently. Jordan Gary vin 0794
>
> Michael Hanley wrote:
>
> > I just got my car a few weeks ago and am having trouble finding and
> > insurance company with decent rates as I only plan to drive my car a few
> > miles a week and spend the rest of the time restoring it. It's not my
> > primary vehicle and most insurance companies don't have the car in their
> > records. Could anyone recommend some companies that you might have had
> > luck with, any classic car speciality insurance companies, etc.? I sure
> > would appreciate it. Thanks.
> >
> > -Mike
> > #0981
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 14:44:03 -0500
From: Mike Substelny <SUBSTEM@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Agreed Value Insurance
Marc Levy pointed out something important:
> You may want to ask for a "Agreed Value" policy. Ther are usualy
> a bit cheaper, and there is no negotiation if you make a claim.
The DeLorean Club of Ohio had an insurance lecture back in January
from an insurance expert who also collects classic cars himself. He
recommended an agreed value policy *very* highly for DeLorean
owners. There are many sources for these. H/e leafed through an
issue of Hemmings and showed us advertisements for a number of
policies which would be perfect for DeLorean owners in various
situations.
One advantage is that you get to decide if you are happy with the
agreement *before* you pay for the policy. If you don't agree with the
value and rate they assign you can shop elsewhere.
- - Mike Substelny
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 11:36:16 -0800
From: Dave Price <davep@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Facia paint removal
I was reading through the back issues and it seems as though the task of
removing the facia paint has come up a few times, but I didn't see any
resolution, just questions... Does anyone have insight into stripping the
paint off the facias ?
Thanks!
Dave
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 12:40:07 -0800
From: Dave Price <davep@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Vinyl coated leather?
I have a little cosmetic issue I was hoping someone might be able to help
me out with...
I can't really describe the section that I'm talking about, but it's the
part that lines up with the armrest on the lower back area of the door
opening... It's a leather piece that has been covered in vinyl to make it
"part" of the inside trim.
Well, the vinyl was bubling and peeling, so instead of trying to re-apply
the vinyl to the leather, I just cut it along the seam and peeled it off.
I'm quite happy with the results except that now I have this ugly little
seam where I cut the vinyl.
My question is: Does anyone know of a product that I could use to blend
or
conciel this seam? Like a grey "vinyl look-a-like" in a tube that I could
cover it up or something... ?
Thanks!
Dave
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 13:05:46 PST
From: "Aaron Husak" <aaronhusak@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: fyi: 4 for sale in Dallas area
>From Monday's Dallas Morning News:
1) "'81 Delorean good condition, $14,000 817-613-1753"
2) "'81 Delorean exc. condition under 15k $20,000 817-275-8657"
3) "'81 Delorean auto, grey int., $16,000 972-475-4798"
4) "'82 vey rare, 5-spd, under 100 mi. $27,000"
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 13:43:18 +0000
From: ausmith@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: Facia paint removal
Hi all,
Considering the chemicals involved and that the facias are plastic, I
don't think it advisable. Just sand and paint seems the best idea. No
need to remove what's there.
Chris
> I was reading through the back issues and it seems as though the task of
> removing the facia paint has come up a few times, but I didn't see any
> resolution, just questions... Does anyone have insight into stripping the
> paint off the facias ?
>
> Thanks!
> Dave
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 17:51:54 -0500
From: AARON1@xxxxxxxxx (AARON MILLS)
Subject: DML: Re: wheel color
Could someone help me with a paint code for my wheels? The previous
owner used a spray can of silver , I am having them redone and the shop
needs a paint code. The car is an '82 (jan. 82) vin: 11554. Thanks for
any help:-)
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 14:50:14 -0800
From: Dave Price <davep@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Doors opening too far/fast
Howdy... I've had a problem that's been picking at me for a while.. My
doors seem to open a little too far. They go up, and the top of the door
hits the side of the T top (consequently it has a small dent where it
hits,
and continues to get skuffed up). I was wondering if there was some way
to
limit the distance the strut allows the door to move, so it wouldn't open
"all the way". Also, I was wondering if there was a different kind of
strut
that slows down after it pushes to a certain point (kind of like the
reverse of a screen-door strut). One would be able to just pull the
handle
(or rig up one of those keyless entry systems to open the door) and you
wouldn't have to "guide" it up, as it would naturally slow to a stop...
Dave
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 17:35:42 -0600 (CST)
From: JDay <dayjason@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Auto transmission
I couldn't help to notice the extravagant way of fixing the auto
trans. I was curious if anyone knew if this was a common thing to all
deloreans, or is this just a random problem.
Thanks, Jason
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 00:38:18 -0800
From: "postmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <postmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: ASI radio replacment
At 05:58 PM 3/30/98 -0800, you wrote:
>I'm getting ready to replace the stock ASI radio in my car. While the
>radio and cassette works, the sound quality is rather substandard
>compared to even the most modest 90's car stereos. While is really
>don't want to alter the car, I need to have a reasonable quality of
>sound. I use cassettes and will add a CD changer. Plus since the
>original radio is currently working, I don't want to damage it. So, I
>am looking for a BROKEN ASI radio. What I plan to do is build a false
>front for my new Sony radio (DIN style, removable face) to make it
>look as if I still has the original radio in the car. All I need in
>good shape is the face of the radio itself and the faceplate. Or if
>anyone has mounted their stereo somewhere else in the car, I'd love to
>hear the details.
>
>Ken Montgomery
>VIN# 10911
>
>
reply:
Hi Ken,
I have been thinking of replacing my stock radio and cassette player
with a CD player and radio. I get the impression that some modification
to the console is required? is that so?
Thanks
Lee
VIN#5729
Lic:81DMC12
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 23:29:16 -0500
From: "Mike Thomas" <comptrol@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: governor replaced
I spent five hours Saturday replacing the auto trans governor and car
finally runs right. I also installed Fanzilla, which works great. All
Renault dealers in my area had no stock on the part, but of course Rob
Grady
did and for the exact same price, so I got it from him.
The entire installation went perfect. No metal chips or fiber in the oil
pan, no frozen bolts, etc. Unusual. After filling up with new ATF, car
would not go. At ALL. After checking the level roughly 10 times, I
decided
to ignore the little voice in my head and add more fluid. Car started to
go, but it felt like a clutch was slipping. Finally added more fluid
again
today, for a total of about 4 qts. and the slip is gone.
My warning to all of you is that the ATF level is difficult to check. The
damn dipstick goes in hard and wants to lick up fluid from all over the
sides of the tube. If you add any fluid at all, the next time you check
the
dipstick is all wet and the damn thing looks full. I haven't found a
specification for how much fluid should be in there. So there you have
it,
you are warned+ACE-
I haven't ripped the old governor apart yet, but I'll bet the solenoid
valve
surges cause these failures. I have checked out the surge from a 24VDC
relay coil with an oscilloscope before and found spikes of 300+- volts
when
the coil is deenergized. The spike from a solenoid valve is probably even
worse. I think I will install the fix from Delorean World Summer 87.
Just
the diodes ought to do it.
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 09:35:26 -0500
From: John Hanley <106165.1407@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Vinyl coated leather?
Message text written by INTERNET:dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
>Well, the vinyl was bubling and peeling, so instead of trying to re-apply
>the vinyl to the leather, I just cut it along the seam and peeled it off.
>I'm quite happy with the results except that now I have this ugly little
>seam where I cut the vinyl.
>My question is: Does anyone know of a product that I could use to blend or
>conciel this seam? Like a grey "vinyl look-a-like" in a tube that I could
>cover it up or something... ?<
Dave, PVC is dissolved with an organic solvent Cyclohexanone..
Im not sure exactly where you would obtain this in the USA. If you was UK=
then you could come and collect a small amount from me. It is an Organic
Solvent please take great care when using this and apply to a small area
which will be unseen beforehand. PVC is difficult to dissolve away even
using this material it may take some considerable time but with patience =
i am sure you will achieve the desired result.
Regards
John Hanley
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 11:16:23 -0600
From: Jordan Gary <jordang@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Facia paint
I am about to have my front and back facis sanded and painted. A body
shop man
commented that the current color is not near the stainless in color and
that he
could come much closer. I have been thinking about that. Have others
decided
to change the origional color a little? Jordan Gary vin 0794
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 11:30:19 -0800
From: Dave Price <davep@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Facia paint
>I am about to have my front and back facis sanded and painted. A body
>shop man
>commented that the current color is not near the stainless in color and
>that he
>could come much closer. I have been thinking about that. Have others
>decided
>to change the origional color a little? Jordan Gary vin 0794
I'd be interested to know how it turns out (if you decide to have him use
a different color). I think the factory paint is a little hokey because
it's
similar but not very close... Either you get it dead-on (which is
difficult
because of the nature and appearance of SS) or you do something
drastically different (flat black, etc.). I'm sure most of you have seen
the Delorean poster with the nicely dessed couple in the background
and a prototype (sliding windows) Delorean pictured... I noticed that
the painted facias are much closer to the color of the stainless, and
it looks quite nice.
Dave
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 16:40:32 -0600
From: "BRUCE BENSON" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Re: wheel color
- ----------
> From: AARON MILLS <AARON1@xxxxxxxxx>
> To: dmcnews-digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: DML: Re: wheel color
> Date: Tuesday, March 31, 1998 4:51 PM
>
> Could someone help me with a paint code for my wheels? The previous
> owner used a spray can of silver , I am having them redone and the shop
> needs a paint code. The car is an '82 (jan. 82) vin: 11554. Thanks for
> any help:-)
I haven't seen a paint code for the wheels but I had to do some touch-up
on
a wheel a couple of years ago and used a 'Dupli-Color' touch-up automotive
spraypaint #DS GM 340 Silver MC. I don't know which year GM car it's from
but the color was the same as the rest of the wheel and the results were
great. The touch-up is undetectable and I've driven several cross country
trips since with no deterioration of the paint. You could probably find
that number on a 'Dupli-Color' chart at the auto store and see which year
GM models it was used on. Then have a paint shop mix a more durable paint
in that color.
Bruce Benson
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 01 Apr 98 18:52:20 PST
From: "Brandon S. Moody" <bsmoody@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Doors opening too far/fast
> Howdy... I've had a problem that's been picking at me for a while.. My
> doors seem to open a little too far. They go up, and the top of the door
> hits the side of the T top (consequently it has a small dent where it
> hits,
> and continues to get skuffed up). I was wondering if there was some way
> to
there is some deal of movement possible with the T panel itself.
Check and see if you have room enough to clear the other
door if you move it a little.
- -Brandon
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 11:37:34 -0800
From: Dave Price <davep@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Rear side windows
I'm having a little problem with my rear side windows fogging up (due to
the engine heat I'm assuming..) and I was wondering if anyone had
solutions
for this? I was thinking about putting on one of those self-stick window
defogger kits, but it seemed a little dorky.. Any way to route some
airflow to hit those windows?
Thanks!
Dave
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 19:10:12 -0600
From: Jordan New network connection <jordang@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: ASI radio replacment
Lee and others, I put a modern radio in mine last month. You have to
cut the
dash hole for the radio into a larger rectangle. The new radio came with
a
templet to mark the size on the sheet metal. Then I drilled a line of
holes on
the sides, vertical sides. I then took a small hack saw and cut the
horizonal
sides. Then I filed the 4 sides to be correct. The easier way is to use
a
powered saw which has a spinning disk. I am pleased with the result. I
took
out the center console before I started cutting, but I don't think that
it was
necessary, it just made it easier to reach behind the radio. Jordan Gary
postmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> At 05:58 PM 3/30/98 -0800, you wrote:
>
> >I'm getting ready to replace the stock ASI radio in my car. While the
> >radio and cassette works, the sound quality is rather substandard
> >compared to even the most modest 90's car stereos. While is really
> >don't want to alter the car, I need to have a reasonable quality of
> >sound. I use cassettes and will add a CD changer. Plus since the
> >original radio is currently working, I don't want to damage it. So, I
> >am looking for a BROKEN ASI radio. What I plan to do is build a false
> >front for my new Sony radio (DIN style, removable face) to make it
> >look as if I still has the original radio in the car. All I need in
> >good shape is the face of the radio itself and the faceplate. Or if
> >anyone has mounted their stereo somewhere else in the car, I'd love to
> >hear the details.
> >
> >Ken Montgomery
> >VIN# 10911
> >
>
> reply:
>
> Hi Ken,
>
> I have been thinking of replacing my stock radio and cassette player
> with a CD player and radio. I get the impression that some modification
> to the console is required? is that so?
>
> Thanks
>
> Lee
> VIN#5729
> Lic:81DMC12
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 20:29:31 EST
From: DMC3309 <DMC3309@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Facia paint
I believe the correct fascia color is Ditzler number 33584. As far as
the
wheel silver color I believe it too is a Ditzler fleet color silver but I
cannot find the exact number yet.
Robert
VIN3309
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 02 Apr 1998 03:01:23 -0800
From: "lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Reservations/T-shirts
An Up-Date
This is a general up date on the DMC-12 Limited edition model
Kits and 3D T-shirt Iron-On projects, if you are not interested
feel free to skip or delete this.
1. The final batch of reservation certificates for the limited edition
DMC-12 model kits will be going out over the next two days. If you think
you have a reservation and do not get one in the next 7 to 10 says,
please e-mail me and let me know. The list has been culled for no e-mail
delivery and no street address. there were several e-mail address that
were bounced and or mail was refused. It is important that if you do need
to send me e-mail you include your reservation number (your place in the
001 to 100 series). There are over 400 names on the waiting list above
the 94 with reservations. All the cull names were placed on the waiting
list. A reminder that the reservation date is March 1st, 1998 but that
the model release date is still months away, so in the event you were
culled we can still restore the reservation if I can get a useable e-mail
address and street address.
2. The metal bodies of the prototype kit models are completed and will
appear in the next issue of DeLorean World magazine. You will be able to
see what they look like sitting on top of the kit box. The article is in
two parts, with the first part covering what lead up to the decision to
do the kits and what it takes to actually begin such a project. The
second part will chronicle the actual process of creating the master
kits. (there will be lots of pictures in this part)
3. Some reservation holders have opted to make payments or pay in
advance, all these folks will be receiving a FREE 3D Full Color DMC-Man
T-shirt Iron-on cartoon. These are ready and waiting for me to make up
the 3D viewers. (this is by hand and takes a bit of time so please be
patient). The T-shirt Iron-On comes with complete instructions and full
color examples of another cartoon. These cartoons poke fun at the DMC-12,
they are not the old blue and red 3D glasses type of 3D. These are in
full 16 million color graphic art illustrations and are great just as
stand alone art. you do not need the 3D viewer to see a clear image. BUT
WHEN viewed with the viewer, the designs pop out in a spectacular way,
even after transferred to the T-shirts the 3D effect remains. even though
I have special viewers for the T-shirts, some polarizing sunglasses will
make the designs pop! so others who see you in the shirt may be shocked
to see the 3D effect on your shirt. You will also be able to see an
example of the T-shirts in the DeLorean World magazine...I think.
As a point of reference this message is being posted on the DML because
if I have not been able to get the regular up-date to you because for
some reason my post are bounced, hopefully you will see this message and
contact me.
Thanks for your time
Lee
VIN#5729
Lic:81DMC12
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 05:07:42 EST
From: KKoncelik <KKoncelik@xxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Cincinnati Car Show update
Hi
I didn't mean to panic anyone on hotel space. I still have a large block
of
rooms still available at the Comfort Inn but the possibility of running
out
does exist if I get a huge rush and I just wanted people to be aware. I
assure
you noone will be turned away for lack of a hotel. The alternate site is
just
as nice and as easily accessable. The dinner, banquet and events have
enough
space for everyone and more room is available if necessary.
Again I am amazed at the response so far and am looking forward to this
show.
One thing that is neet is that there will be cars that are modified with
items
such as lowering kits, stainless steel frames and the car with the windows
that work like a regular cars windows. We only read about these cars but
this
is a chance to see them (up close and personal)
Again thanks for your support.
Ken
kkoncelik@xxxxxxx
http://idt.net/~dmc1219
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 08:23:00 -0500 (EST)
From: "Sean P Mullally" <mullally@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Voltage spikes and damage to electrical system
I am very interested in the previous topics of how parts of the DeLorean
electrical system are susceptible to damage from voltage spikes that can
be
caused by such things as jumping the car. Specifically the automatic
transmission computer. Does this also go for disconnecting and
reconnecting the
battery. If I am going to let the car sit for a long time I'll disconnect
the
battery so my alarm doesn't drain the power. Is this going to fry some of
my
electronics? How about hooking up a battery charger? I've had no problems
with my transmission yet, but I sure don't want to cause any either.
Has anyone build an improved computer for the auto transmission? Being
such a
weak spot, it seems like this would make a good "zilla" product I think!
- -Sean Mullally
vin #3868
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 10:50:49 -0800
From: "Ken Montgomery" <kenm@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Oil sender availability
I have a small oil leak in/around the oil pressure sender on the
drivers side of the engine. The part # in the DMC parts manual is
102462 and the washer is 102461. Is this otherwise a stock item I
could buy locally, or should I purchase it from one of the DeLorean
specialty shops?
- -------------------------------------------------------
Ken Montgomery My DeLorean VIN #10911
Sacramento, CA
kenm@xxxxxxxx "When the wind gets under these wings
Operating You will feel what freedom brings"
Systems Analyst From 'On-Air' Alan Parsons
(916) 278-7646
http://www.jps.net/arkham/delorean01.htm
- -------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 12:51:58 +0000
From: ausmith@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: Oil sender availability
It's a standard Volvo B28F item.
Chris
Ken Montgomery wrote:
> I have a small oil leak in/around the oil pressure sender on the
> drivers side of the engine. The part # in the DMC parts manual is
> 102462 and the washer is 102461. Is this otherwise a stock item I
> could buy locally, or should I purchase it from one of the DeLorean
> specialty shops?
>
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 11:13:21 -1000
From: "Thomas Smithson" <tsassoc@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Oil sender availability
Ken, I have the same problem. I was told this is a common little problem,
among many. I ordered the replacement from DMC Houston but haven't
installed it yet. I was also told, later, that Renault part #9151443280 is
a replacement for this oil pressure light sender by the catalytic
converter. The oil pressure sender by the oil filter is Volvo part
#1218028-7. Hope this helps. Aloha!
Thom Smithson
VIN #3089
- ----------
> From: Ken Montgomery <kenm@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: DML: Oil sender availability
> Date: Thursday, April 02, 1998 8:50 AM
>
> I have a small oil leak in/around the oil pressure sender on the
> drivers side of the engine. The part # in the DMC parts manual is
> 102462 and the washer is 102461. Is this otherwise a stock item I
> could buy locally, or should I purchase it from one of the DeLorean
> specialty shops?
>
------------------------------
End of dmcnews-digest V3 #346
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