dmcnews-digest Sunday, December 6 1998 Volume 03 : Number 450
In this issue:
DML: Auto transmission update...
DML: Re: DRIVERS WINDOW INOP
DML: Re: RE: Fuel Odors
DML: LIST for K&N Air Filter
DML: My door and fender replacement project (long)
Re: DML: Modeling Tips & Facia Panels
DML: Re: Spare tire cover
DML: Door now open
DML: Door differences between #4452 and #10570 / dates
DML: Re: Re: Spare tire cover
DML: New rev of DeLorean parts list and database
DML: K&N Filter
DML: Repair shop list
Re: DML: Door differences between #4452 and #10570 / dates
Re: DML: K&N Air Filter
Re: DML: Modeling Tips & Facia Panels
DML: Window sticker / JZD
Re: DML: jigowatt vs gigawatt
Re: DML: K&N Air Filter
Re: DML: Window sticker / JZD
Re: DML: K&N Air Filter
Re: DML: No Start due to fuel filter
Re: DML: Re: Spare tire cover
DML: RE: Re: Re: Speaking of Lambda connection...
Re: DML: K&N Air Filter
DML: Re: Door differences between #4452 and #10570 / dates
DML: Re: Re: Spare tire cover
DML: RE: Re: Door differences between #4452 and #10570 / dates
DML: Re: Auto transmission update...
DML: Re: slow idle when cold.
DML: Re: Door now open
DML: Re: MIRROR SWITCH
Re: DML: K&N Air Filter
DML: re: Fuel Filter
DML: Dave's trans part 6/Parts Available
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 04:05:29 -0800
From: "Dave Price" <davep2@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Auto transmission update...
OK, I dug through the back issues and found the shift solenoid diagnostic
setup... The only problem is that there is no difference between 1st and
Neutral (both solenoids activated), so I can't tell if the computer is at
fault... (1st seems to be shifting into neutral under hard acceleration)
Someone had mentioned that instead of lights at the solenoid access point,
they used a switch, and controlled the shifting manually. Could this
potentially fry a (possibly) working computer? Can I disconnect the
computer altogether and force the car into 1st somehow? When the computer
is disconnected, the car acts like it's in 3rd (no solenoids active), and
the shared positive is no longer live at the solenoid access point.
Thanks again folks!
- - Dave
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 09:07:43 -0600
From: magriese@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: DML: Re: DRIVERS WINDOW INOP
I was the guy who had problems with the wiring harness when my
window stopped working. You definately want to use a test lamp
to check for power at the window lift motor. A meter is not sufficient.
I went into the door and checked the circuit with a meter, found
12V where it should be and concluded the motor was bad. I
replaced the entire mechanism ($360 at the time) and found I
still had a problem. If I had used a test lamp instead of the meter
I would have known right away that the circuit for the window lift
wasn't capable of carrying any current. The problem ultimately
turned out to be a spade lug in one of the block connectors under
the T section. It had pushed back into the plastic header when the
connectors were mated at the factory and was not making adequate
connection with the other half of the harness. Over time the parts
oxidized and/or moved enough that there was enough of a connection
to measure a voltage, but not enough to allow sufficient current to
flow.
The upside of all of this was I was able to sell the
original window lift mechanism for $150 so it didn't hurt
as bad as it could have.
Michael A. Griese
Storage Software Development Manager
IBM Storage Systems Division
Rochester, MN 55901
Internet: magriese@xxxxxxxxxx
voice: (507)253-1853
fax: (507)253-2880
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 05:39:29 -0700
From: scottmueller@xxxxxxxxx (Scott Mueller)
Subject: DML: Re: RE: Fuel Odors
The wires went over the top of the hose clamp and under the cover. Also
check and make sure that the hose clamp around the fuel return pipe is
tight, all hose/pipe fittings are tight.
Are you getting fuel inside the mounting boot, use a flashlight and look.
Also check the fuel fill hose, the carbon canister hose, over flow hose,
any
connection at the tank. You have to be sytematic in your approach.
Inspect
the condition of the parts, if the rubber is starting to come apart, then
it
is time to replace it. Make sure the outside of the fuel pump is clean, I
used a bench mounted wire wheel on mine.
Scott Mueller
DMC/ Das Mueller Companies
Mobile, AL
1981/002981 DOA-5031 DMCNEWS
Contact me about the "Deep South DeLorean Owners Club"
http://www.zebra.net/~scottmueller/Web%20Page/aaanothe.htm
Remember April 3, 1999 - Camillia Classic Car Show in Mobile Alabama
From: Gerald Deutsch <Jerry1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: RE: Fuel Odors
>Where do you put the wires? I'm still smelling gas.
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 11:58:11 -0600
From: Gowler Don-CFPO01 <cfpo01@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: LIST for K&N Air Filter
I'll take two.
Don Gowler
> ----------
> From: Jameel Ahed
> Would it help if we started a list of the people who would buy one of
> these DeLorean K&N filters? Maybe we could get a special run on them,
> just like the ss brake lines. Maybe it would show K&N that there are
> people out there that really do want a K&N for their DeLoreans. Just
> a thought
>
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 98 11:27:51 -0000
From: James Espey <espey@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: My door and fender replacement project (long)
Many of you remember that my DeLorean was hit in a parking lot accident
back in October. I went round and round with the other guys insurance
company and finally ended up with a check for the repairs but not the
transportation to what I considered a qualified repair facility.
A friend and local owner here convinced me that we could complete the
repairs ourselves since we were just replacing the parts and not
repairing anything. I was able to get a used door from Bryan Pearce in
Chicago and have it shipped here to AZ. Bob Miller in North Carolina
traded me a used fender for a spare quarter panel I had hanging on the
wall in my garage for a few years.
Last Friday night, local owners and DML'ers Ace Underhill and Chris
Rabalais came over to my house and we removed the old door (I had
previously removed the old fender a week or so earlier). We only had to
make one run to the parts house (for a 3/8" allen head socket and a BIG
breaker bar for applying pressure to the torsion bar).
The door that I bought from Bryan was missing such items as interior
trim, window regulator, lock solenoid and door handle, but for the most
part was complete as far as all the little metal rods were in place. We
laid the old door down next to it and began systematically removing parts
from the damaged door and installing them in the new door. The fixed
glass was in place on the replacement door, and probably the biggest pain
was either attaching the outside door handle or getting the dropping
glass attached to the window regulator.
We hung the new door the next night and made only very minor adjustments
to the hinge bolts and torsion bar before we had a GREAT fit and very
easy opening and closing. I have to say that it opened and closed better
after we put the new door on and the old door did before the accident.
Note that the last sentence in the above paragraph said opened and closed
- - past tense. We must've opened and closed it a dozen times and it was
perfect. A few days later I took it out for a drive around the block and
when I got home the door would not open AT ALL. Locks and unlocks fine,
but neither the outside handle nor the inside latch will release the door
latches. At least it is the passenger door. We will be getting back into
it on Saturday, but I would welcome any ideas from anyone on this!!
All that is left (after resolving the opening issue) is putting on some
new trim on the door and fender, adjusting the window, and replacing the
interior trim.
Was it easy? Easier than I expected. I have no fear of getting in the
door anymore for anything, and adjusting the torsion bars is not as big
of a deal as I had expected either. It was an excellent experience and in
the long run I was able to save a large sum of money.
Assuming that I do not have to send it to Houston to get the door open :)
James Espey
#10570
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 14:20:38 EST
From: DMC5524@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: Modeling Tips & Facia Panels
I don't know if they still make it or not. But I believe the Testor paint
company used to make a line of model paints called the Metalizer Series.
One
color in the series was called Stainless Steel. It came in a spray can or
in a
bottle pre-thinned for use in a air brush. With some practice you could
achieve the brushed look with fine sand paper as the paint cured. I had
pretty
good success on my models but I never thought of using it on the facias. I
wonder how it would look?
MDC
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 08:53:09 -0600
From: magriese@xxxxxxxxxx
Subject: DML: Re: Spare tire cover
Hank Breer wrote:
>Very early cars were shipped with only the carpet covering the spare tire.
(Reference 8.7.2, fig 10) Later cars had a fiberboard piece placed between
the spare and the carpet. My car, VIN 1141, also does not have the
fiberboard cover, but most of the cars I judged at Concours did.<
Hank - any indication in DOA records that indicate when the fibreboard was
added?
My car, #2135 does not have a fibreboard panel, but there are some velcro
strips on
the back of the carpet, but no evidence of velcro on the floor of the
luggage compartment.
I would think that if the velcro was a previous owner modification there
would be some
adhesive residue on the floor.
Michael A. Griese
Storage Software Development Manager
IBM Storage Systems Division
Rochester, MN 55901
Internet: magriese@xxxxxxxxxx
voice: (507)253-1853
fax: (507)253-2880
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 98 13:35:15 -0000
From: James Espey <espey@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Door now open
After a few helpful emails and some cursing, the newly hung door on my
DeLorean now opens again. Thanks to all who offered advice!
The rods that control the door locking mechanism were not extending far
enough to completely unlock the door. I pushed on the rod and it moved
enough that I was unable to then open the door normally. Looks like an
adjustment is in order.
James Espey
#10570 with a door from #4452
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 98 13:43:35 -0000
From: James Espey <espey@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Door differences between #4452 and #10570 / dates
I was asked via private email if I noticed any differences between the
two doors.
The only thing I noticed immediately was that on the early door, the
fixed glass appears to be held in only by the adhesive. On the later
door, there are some metal clips pop-rivted into the door that help
hold the glass in place. I have never heard of the fixed glass becoming
loose on any cars, so I did not transfer the clips from the #10570 door
to the #4552 door.
James Espey
#10570
PS - Both doors had black magic marker on them with dates and the VIN
numbers.
#4552 - September 25, 1981
#10570 - December 10, 1981
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 14:39:54 -0600
From: "Jameel Ahed" <ahed@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Re: Spare tire cover
I have 2273 and I don't have the board. I also have the velcro strips.
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 13:24:27 -0800
From: "Grimsrud, Knut S" <knut.s.grimsrud@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: New rev of DeLorean parts list and database
I just uploaded a new revision of the electronic DeLorean parts list and
cross reference database program to the usual place on www.dmcnews.com.
This
version adds simpler parts cross reference and info database maintenance
by
alloiwing new parts info and edits to be made right in the program rather
than requiring all list maintenance to be done offline. If you keep track
of
the helpful parts information that is shared in the dmcnews forum, then
this
version may be a useful tool for you to maintain such info. For those not
familiar with the program, it includes a complete copy of the DeLorean
parts
manual with diagrams from the original, as well as a complete searchable
parts database. In addition, the program allows parts cross reference
lists
and price lists to be maintained and searched.
As usual, the release includes a couple cross reference lists provided
courtesy of several regional DeLorean organizations. These lists countain
a
mountain of useful information. If you have additional data you would like
me to include pre-bundled with the release, please contact me.
Finally, with the completion of my new home, please note that the DeLorean
Club of Oregon now has new contact information:
DeLorean Club of Oregon
48009 SW Morel Ln.
Forest Grove, OR 97116
Home: (503) 359-4856
Work: (503) 264-8419
knut.s.grimsrud@xxxxxxxxx
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 20:55:15 EST
From: WINGD2@xxxxxxx
Subject: DML: K&N Filter
Joe,
After reading your response about the K&N air filter, and after my
past
experiences with these units, I decided to review this issue. After
tearing
my car apart again I now understand exactly what you're doing, and I must
say
it is very clever. The air filter normally fits in a groove between the
upper
and lower half's of the air box where they snap together. The lower half
of
the air box is about 4 to 5 inches deep and about half way down is a step
/
ledge where the air box starts to transition to the inlet tube. This
ledge
area is smaller then the upper groove because of the taper in the air
box. If
you take the K&N filter unit and flip it upside down, just as you said, it
will set on this ledge and fits as though it was made for it. Very neat
!!
My only question is how do you hold the filter in place ? When I put the
air
box back together my filter would rattle around somewhat loose. It's not
going to fall out, but it will leak some air. Also, what did you use to
seal
the upper air box groove where the original filter was installed ?
This is a great idea Joe, Thanks ! Marty
PS: I'm still going to let my buddy at K&N play with the air box, no
sense
ruining his fun !
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 21:05:00 EST
From: ABatt10347@xxxxxxx
Subject: DML: Repair shop list
Fellow Dmcer's,
I organized the repair shop list about a year and a half ago. There were
a few
updates but it is now dated. The repair list was made for anyone going
cross
country to have as a guide to help if broken down in a strange place. The
repair shops listed were sent to me by members who had repairs done at
specfic
shops and felt that they had
experienced good work. Is there a need to update this list? It is a lot of
work, but if enough people want me to I'll start a new list.
Bruce Battles
Vin # 6569
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 04 Dec 1998 15:51:25 -0600
From: Jordan Gary <jordang@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Door differences between #4452 and #10570 / dates
Good luck on you older window. My car, vin 0794 , had the older
type moving window regulator channel which holds the moving window
only by glue. It is a L shaped channel which holds the window by glue.
The glue came loose and gave me fits trying to get it glued
back in the correct place. I bought a new type channel and was able to
repair the window. The new channels are like american cars which are U
shaped
and hold the window by friction and perhaps some glue also. Jerry Rine
told me that it is common for the glue to give out on the origional type.
He always then replaces the regulator channel. They cost around $35.00.
Please note that I am talking about a different window than you were.
Of course, no one should worry about this until a moving window
comes loose.
Jordan Gary
James Espey wrote:
> I was asked via private email if I noticed any differences between the
> two doors.
>
> The only thing I noticed immediately was that on the early door, the
> fixed glass appears to be held in only by the adhesive. On the later
> door, there are some metal clips pop-rivted into the door that help
> hold the glass in place. I have never heard of the fixed glass becoming
> loose on any cars, so I did not transfer the clips from the #10570 door
> to the #4552 door.
>
> James Espey
> #10570
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 04 Dec 1998 13:53:13 -0800
From: "lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: K&N Air Filter
At 03:22 AM 12/4/98 -0800, you wrote:
>>If I may respectfully disagree, I was very careful to check the fit at the
>>bottom of my airbox and it fit as snugly as the stocker did right side
>>up. I
>>was very skeptical and checked it several times to be sure that what you
>>described would not happen.
>
>I think the big issue is the fact that the K&N air filter has some "play",
>whereas the correct filter doesnt. Basically you have to keep the K&N
>filter from moving around. I accomplished this by suffing a couple 1/2"
>pieces of styrofoam on either side of it. I'd reccomend anyone else using
>this filter to do something similar.
>
>- Dave
>
>
reply:
Hi Dave,
I am unsure just what filter I have in now, it may be the K&N, I am not
sure. I just went to the local auto supply place and looked up the DMC in
their model vs filter type booklet and got the one recommended. It fit
exactly as the original did and seams to work fine. I don't quite
understand why the focus on the K&N?
Lee
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 16:23:01 -0800
From: "Dave Price" <davep2@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Modeling Tips & Facia Panels
>I don't know if they still make it or not. But I believe the Testor paint
>company used to make a line of model paints called the Metalizer Series.
>One
>color in the series was called Stainless Steel. It came in a spray can or
>in a
>bottle pre-thinned for use in a air brush. With some practice you could
>achieve the brushed look with fine sand paper as the paint cured. I had
>pretty
>good success on my models but I never thought of using it on the facias. I
>wonder how it would look?
>
The only problem with the paint is that is has to be flexible (as the
facias
bend and flex) and flexible paint tends to dry softer than regular paint
(thus allowing it to flex), and probably wouldn't "brush" very well..
(Ever
try to put brush marks in rubber?)... I'm not saying it wouldn't work,
but
finding the right paint would be tricky.
- - Dave
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 18:15:01 EST
From: ABatt10347@xxxxxxx
Subject: DML: Window sticker / JZD
Fellow DMCer's,
I have downloaded the window sticker before and lost it when my hard drive
crashed last summer. I have tried to download it from the DML site again.
I
get the Adobe coming up but no sticker. Has anyone else had this problem.
If
not, it maybe my system, so could someone please email me a copy of the
pdf
file. I now have a color printer so I can do it right!
On the subject of JZD's feeling on the past, I agree with many of the
previous
postings. The whole thing must be a bad memory for him to have to relive
everytime he gets a letter or postcard from one of us. It is sad that he
doesn't realize how much he has enriched our lives. I do a lot of British
car
shows and the one thing I hear most is that people ( nonowners) say is
"man he
was way ahead of his time." Having now owned a D for a few years I marvel
each
and everyday on how right they are! How many other cars hold up, and still
look stylish 16 + years later? I only wish that JZD got to hear the praise
that I hear about the D. For myself the best tribute that I can give is to
drive my D , letting it be seen by as many people as I can. Answering
their
questions, ( yes it does get old, but remember that we see our cars
everyday,
they may only see one or two in a lifetime), and to continue to "live the
dream". Thank you JZD for letting us have our Walter Mitty feelings 24/7.
Bruce Battles
Vin# 6569
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 23:39:23 EST
From: LZeitgeist@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: jigowatt vs gigawatt
In a message dated 98-12-04 00:44:05 EST, you write:
> > I have seen it in print relating to the movie as both Gigawatt and
> > jigowatt.
>
> The correct spelling is 'gigawatt'. It is a scientific term meaning 1
> billion watts, the amount of power used by roughly ten million light
> bulbs. So unless your computer is equipped with a 4 'Jigobyte'
> hard disk, you should spell it properly. :)
However, the correct pronunciation of 'gigabyte' is with a hard 'g', not
a 'j'
sound. Therefore, even though I've always preferred the scientific
spelling of
'gigawatt' for the term, does this mean that Doc Brown, a noted scientist,
perhaps doesn't know what the heck he's talking about? (If *I* heard a
computer tech call it a 2.5 'Jigabyte' hard drive, I'd be outta there
with my
armload of computer in a hurry...)
Patrick W. Heinske -- LZeitgeist@xxxxxxx
ShadowPlayers Stage Combat Group
Raleigh/Charlotte, NC
[Moderators note: I have killed this thread effective now for lack of
DeLorean content.]
- ----------------- End Forwarded Message -----------------
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 21:05:08 -0800
From: "Dave Price" <davep2@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: K&N Air Filter
> I am unsure just what filter I have in now, it may be the K&N, I am not
>sure. I just went to the local auto supply place and looked up the DMC in
>their model vs filter type booklet and got the one recommended. It fit
>exactly as the original did and seams to work fine. I don't quite
>understand why the focus on the K&N?
>
K&N claims to allow better airflow than paper filters, and catch more dirt
(It's an oil-soaked cotton filter). They also don't loose effeciency as
they get dirty. It's a lifetime filter, which only requires cleaning every
50K miles... It probably doesn't effect performance much, but some folks
say they get as much as a 15 hp gain.... I couldn't tell any difference
after I installed mine, but it's worth it to me if it catches more
dirt....
- - Dave
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 04 Dec 1998 21:08:32 -0800
From: "lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx" <lseiler@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: Window sticker / JZD
At 06:15 PM 12/4/98 EST, you wrote:
>Fellow DMCer's,
....Snip.............
On the subject of JZD's feeling on the past, I agree with many of the
previous postings. The whole thing must be a bad memory for him to have to
relive every time he gets a letter or postcard from one of us.
......Snip............
Thank you JZD for letting us have our Walter Mitty feelings 24/7.
Bruce Battles
Vin# 6569
Reply:
I tend to agree with you Bruce, however I am happy to report that not
every thing related to the DMC-12 is painful for JZD. I received a very
nice Fax from JZD today accepting #001 DMC-12 Limited edition Model Kit.
So JZD will be getting his kit after all.
So all the great ideas of how to dispose of his Kit will have to be put
aside for now.
Lee
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 01:00:36 EST
From: KayoOng@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: K&N Air Filter
Has anyone tried a filter call Amsoil?
I was just offering another washable and reusable air filter system.
Check: http://www.amsoil.com
It works on the same principle as the K&N.
It is also "washable" and rejuvenated by oiling it with their brand of
filter
oil.
The Amsoil air filter, it fits perfectly. No need for right side up or
right
side down upon installation. You need no "other" materials or things to
do to
make it fit or to get a tight seal.
I had the Amsoil filter in my DeLorean replacing the old "stock" paper
filter.
I had used this Amsoil filter for the about 2 years. Not bad. Definite
an
increase in power. I even put back a "new" stock paper filter to compare.
Major difference. The paper filter "chocks" the engine, no doubt about
it.
The Amsoil filter was also rated by some independent racing group and the
results was posted on the Por*che (sorry can't post the name here)
website as
being the best all around filter. They are a finicky bunch! The Amsoil
was
compared with four other brands and beats it in every area of testing. I
have
used this Amsoil filter way before the posting of the results. The
results
didn't surprise me at all. I kind of expected it.
Folks remember, when it comes to an air filter, you must have a tight
seal.
No ambient air leaks, it doesn't matter if it is a K&N, Amsoil or any
filter
alike. If you have just a little open of any kind, it is like have no
filter
at all. A correct filter with a hole is no good either.
Make sure that any filter you fit into the housing, it must not move at
all.
When the engine's throttle is opened up, there is much suction. This
rushing
in of air is putting the filter under stress and deforming the fit in the
housing thereby creating an opening for air leaks. Check to make sure
that
that any filter other then the standard filter doesn't move or deform
under
its operation. It must be supported. The filter must either be rigid or
fill
the whole entire housing. This will prevent movement or deformation that
will
create air leak.
As for a project, I have constructed my own filters out of two different
type
of heavy duty air condition foam filter material, metal screen mesh for
strength and rigidity with a woman's nylon stockings as a "fine" pre and
post
filter. It is all held together by silicone glue.
This filter is tightly fitted to fill in the housing with a lip to sit
against
the top cover just like the original. I had used this filter for the last
three month with over 5,500 miles on it.
It works! I had done testing using industrial suctioning units and
blowers to
simulate the same condition of air and dirt flow.
As for the car it, the interior of the intake area of the manifold is now
cleaner. The dirt is now on the first layer of the nylon stocking. With
the
stock or the Amsoil air filters the intake manifold area and the plate was
always dirty after 3,000 miles or so. This filter still has more air
flowing
then the stock filter and less headache and maintenance then the Amsoil.
Time for the project? One hour -- I made six reusable filter.
Cost for all the materials? $25.00. Cost of nylon's? They are throw
away.
Every time the unit gets dirty? Change the nylon covering.
Kayo Ong
#05508
Lic 9D NY
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 13:19:53 -0800
From: steve brodsky <a0017673@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: No Start due to fuel filter
Michael Pack wrote:
> Hello
>
> Your input TO MY NO START problem was remarkable. However here is a more
> detailed description.
> Again I'm getting gas from the fuel filter to the fuel dist. then to the
> injectors.
>
> I am so thankful that I can ask you all these confusing
> questions and get logical answers. You all are very important to me.
>
> As always all of you are in my thoughts during the Holidays!!! :)
>
> Sincerely,
> Michael Pack
> "The Stranded Senator"
Check the wires going to your ballast resistor. It is located in the
engine
compartment on the drivers side of the fire wall. It is located in such a
way
that it is susceptible to the elements and the wires can carrode in the
connectors. If you do not have a good clean fitting, it will behave
exactly as
you describe. It took me a year to trace that one down with mine.
steve brodsky #10688
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 13:25:23 -0700
From: raddad@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: DML: Re: Spare tire cover
My first DeLorean (#6530-late '81) came with the fiberboard spare tire
cover. Then, I took my car to a west coast service center and when I
picked it up, they had removed it and put it into a different car.
Fortunately I had stopped to fill the car with gas just blocks away from
where the service had been performed so I discovered the problem
immediately. I stormed back - demanded the board - and never returned.
It
seems it was not uncommon for this sort of parts swapping in the very
early
days after DMC went belly up. Oh, BTW, that service center is no longer
in
business.
Needless to say, my current '83 does have the board.
Can you imagine the anecdotes about DeLorean ownership we could
accumulate?
Dick Ryan
VIN 16867
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 16:24:32 -0500
From: Chris Coplen <Blarness@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: RE: Re: Re: Speaking of Lambda connection...
Great Advise! Thanks. I'll give it a try. BTW: What's an RPM relay, =
and where do I find it? I have the manuals but still can't find it.
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 03:39:44 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <DMCJOE@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: K&N Air Filter
Hay guy's,
I've been off the list for a couple of days and I noticed the talk a about
the K&N filter, what's the deal? Why bother using this filter if it
doesn't
fit. In addition to the original Bosch unit there are many other brands
that fit perfectly and all cost about the same. Please educate me and tell
me what is so special about the K&N filter.
DMC Joe / DeLorean Services dmcjoe@xxxxxxx
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 03:52:39 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <DMCJOE@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Door differences between #4452 and #10570 / dates
James,
I have seen a couple of the early cars with this problem. I guess this is
why the factory added the clips.
DMC Joe / DeLorean Services dmcjoe@xxxxxxx
- ----------
> From: James Espey <espey@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: DMCNews <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: DML: Door differences between #4452 and #10570 / dates
> Date: Friday, December 04, 1998 8:43 AM
>
> I was asked via private email if I noticed any differences between the
> two doors.
>
> The only thing I noticed immediately was that on the early door, the
> fixed glass appears to be held in only by the adhesive. On the later
> door, there are some metal clips pop-rivted into the door that help
> hold the glass in place. I have never heard of the fixed glass becoming
> loose on any cars, so I did not transfer the clips from the #10570 door
> to the #4552 door.
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 04:10:06 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <DMCJOE@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Re: Spare tire cover
Michael,
Once again be aware that many cars spent time at the QAC centers for re
assembly and repairs, during that time many components were passed from
car to car. This would explain your carpet with Velcro strips. There is no
info on VIN changeover.
DMC Joe / DeLorean Services dmcjoe@xxxxxxx
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 20:34:31 -0500
From: Gerald Deutsch <Jerry1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: RE: Re: Door differences between #4452 and #10570 / dates
One other difference I noticed. My 81 door has stainless steel 'guides' =
where the strikers go through and connect with the latch assemblies in =
the doors. They kind of guide the striker into the latch if the it is =
out of adjustment (I guess). I saw two different 83's which had plastic =
pieces instead of the stainless.=20
- ----------
From: DMC Joe[SMTP:DMCJOE@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Sunday, December 06, 1998 3:52 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: DML: Re: Door differences between #4452 and #10570 / dates
James,
I have seen a couple of the early cars with this problem. I guess this =
is
why the factory added the clips.
DMC Joe / DeLorean Services dmcjoe@xxxxxxx
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 05:10:03 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <DMCJOE@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Auto transmission update...
Dave,
Yes you can override the computer and activate the solenoids directly.
Contact me directly for more information.
DMC Joe / DeLorean Services dmcjoe@xxxxxxx
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 05:16:53 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <DMCJOE@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: slow idle when cold.
Jameel,
The normal function of the idle speed and Lambda will cause the idle speed
to surge up and down and than settle after 2 to 4 minutes running time
during warm up, if this is what your DeLorean is doing it is operating
perfectly.
DMC Joe / DeLorean Services dmcjoe@xxxxxxx
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 09:25:31 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <DMCJOE@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: Door now open
James,
Glad to see you got your door open. My previous post was addressing the
problem you indicated. If the lock solenoid is not operating properly it
may not push the lock rods completely to the unlock position so be sure to
check that before you seal up the door.
DMC Joe / DeLorean Services dmcjoe@xxxxxxx
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 09:34:34 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <DMCJOE@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Re: MIRROR SWITCH
Mike,
I will be working in a drivers door tomorrow so I can instruct you on a
test to confirm that the switch is actually bad.
DMC Joe / DeLorean Services dmcjoe@xxxxxxx
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 22:38:21 -0500
From: Steve <dmc@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DML: K&N Air Filter
On Sat, 5 Dec 1998 KayoOng@xxxxxxx wrote:
[...]
> As for a project, I have constructed my own filters out of two different
> type
> of heavy duty air condition foam filter material, metal screen mesh for
> strength and rigidity with a woman's nylon stockings as a "fine" pre and
> post
> filter. It is all held together by silicone glue.
[...]
Be very careful when using any type of slicone compound, especially on
parts associated with the intake manifold. If any silicone is released
into the air (during curing, etc) and pulled into the engine it can
damage your oxygen (lambda) sensor. "Safe" silicone adhesives are now
sold in auto parts stores which do not harm oxygen sensors, though I
have never used any of these.
-Steve <dmc@xxxxxxx>
VIN #17117
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 98 22:38:00 -0600
From: David Swingle <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: re: Fuel Filter
Subject: Filter Part #
Sent: 12/4/1998 10:33 PM
To: Greg Guillot, gguillot@xxxxxxxx
The stamping on the Bosch filter is 0 450 905 401. With Bosch, this is
not necessarily the same as the "box" or catalog part number.
Now that I've gone out and looked at it, the end with the problem is
definitely the inlet, Where the filter screws into the elbow. The outlet
is a banjo fitting.
I've not heard of anyone else running into this problem (that's why I
posted it). The best way to check for it is to put a little grease pencil
mark on the fitting where it mates up with the filter, put it together
and take it apart, and see if it bottomed out.
Dave
>Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 12:44:22 -0600
>From: Greg Guillot <gguillot@xxxxxxxxx>
>Dave,
>
>Can you tell us the Bosch number of the filter you have? I recently
>purchased
>one as well, and would like to make sure that I don't run into this
>problem. (I
>haven't installed it yet.)
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------------------------------
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 98 22:38:04 -0600
From: David Swingle <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DML: Dave's trans part 6/Parts Available
Things are beginning to look up - as I stated last time, in addition to
the broken 1-2 roll pin my 3-4 slider gear and the 3rd gear syncro are
torn up.
I was able to buy a whole used transmission for less than the cost of the
parts. The flaw in the used trans that lead to the (kind of) low price is
the fact that the prior owner must have tried to play Marty McFly with
the clutch and tore most of the teeth off the spider (diff) gears, and
then one of the teeth was then launched by the ring gear through the
trans case about where the drain plug is (was). Instead of the drain plug
there is a jagged 1-inch hole in the case that gives a nice view of the
ring gear.
Lucky for me the pieces wandering around in the trans didn't make it to
the upper regions because everything looks great in the neighborhood of
the 3-4 gear slider. All I have to do now is drop the whole input shaft
assembly into my trans. In the process I am also replacing all of the
seals and the rubber boot that goes around the shaft where the shifter
hooks up to the trans cover. I'm also going to plastic-bead blast (the
outside of) the case.
This will of course lead to an assortment of available used transmission
parts. If anyone is looking for a perfectly good output shaft assembly
(1-2 gears/slider/synchro) or other items such as rear cover,
bellhousing, any of the bearings or the side of the case that DOESN'T
have the drain plug in it let me know. I'll try to itemize things later.
I hope to start reassembly next weekend - I may make it by Christmas yet.
Any advice on how to best seal this back up? You may not realize it but
the two halves of the case are so well-machined that they do not use a
gasket to seal them together. I can't find anyone around here that even
knows what Hylamar is, the closest thing appears to be Permatex Anerobic
Sezalant or some Fel-Pro stuff that one shop came up with. RTV is NOT
recommended.
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------------------------------
End of dmcnews-digest V3 #450
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