[DML] Digest Number 1120
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[DML] Digest Number 1120



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There are 7 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

      1. Re: torsion bar adjustment tools
           From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
      2. Re: Open Invitational Door Strut Test
           From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
      3. Re: D in Star Wars
           From: jvdmc12@xxxxxxx
      4. Delorean owners in Tucson, AZ - want to get together?
           From: "David Cox" <dmcox@xxxxxxx>
      5. RE: Stereo suggestions
           From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
      6. Re: RPM-relay relay
           From: "janvdwouw" <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
      7. Re: driving with doors open?
           From: "janvdwouw" <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>


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Message: 1
   Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 22:41:20 +0100
   From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: torsion bar adjustment tools

Removing the louvers makes the job a damn site easier and largely removes
the need for
this device.

...if you don't mind re-fitting the louvers after :-)

You comment about the bar moving in its "hole". My trick is to use a
screwdriver in one
of the bolt holes to gently lever the opposite hole into place - then all
the person on
the wrench needs to do is to rotate, and that thing can get quite heavy
very quickly!

Martin
#1458



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Message: 2
   Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 19:27:21 -0400
   From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Open Invitational Door Strut Test

How much dead weight does it take to compress a door strut?

Based totally on mathematics, I have two answers: a low of 270 lbs (122
Kg)
and a high of 315 lbs (143 Kg).

John Hervey supplied the seed figure of 1200 Newtons, and Tom Niemczewski
supplied 1400 Newtons.  It is possible that both figures are correct
depending from where you take your measurements if the lower figure is the
minimum required to start to compress a relaxed strut while the maximum is
to completely compress it.

I was mistaken in my previous post stating that the door struts are
charged
to 1400 psi.  The "1400" was correct, but it was Newtons -- not psi. As
for
what the charge really is, I have calculated this to be from 153 to 179
bar
(2225 to 2596 psi) which is a LOT of pressure.  Can anyone verify this?
The
next thing to try is calculate the change in strut charge according to
whether it is compressed or relaxed.  A difference of 200 Newtons would
help
test my theory, but I'm bored with it already.  Maybe tomorrow.

So Rick, how are you doing measuring this experimentally?

For those of you who enjoy math:

1200 Newtons = 1200 Kg*m/s^2 = (convert to Kg by assuming gravitational
force is 9,80665 m/s^2) = (1200 Kg*m/s2) / 9,80665 m/s^2 = 122,4 Kg = 270
lbs

The rest of my calculations are based on the premise that the strut is in
a
static mode.  Therefore all internal force vectors mutually nullify each
other with the exception of the force exerted perpendicular to the
cross-sectional area of the rod.  Assuming a rod diameter of 9,98 mm =
0,00998 m; therefore, the rod cross-sectional area = (0,00998 m/2)^2 * pi
=
7,82E-5 m^2

So for the low end, 1200 Newtons applied over an area of 7,82E-5 m^2  =
1200 N / 7,82E-5 m^2 = 1200 Kg*m/s^2 / 7,82E-5 m^2 = 1,53E7 Kg/m*s^2 =
1,53E7 Pascals = 153 bar = 2225 psi (whew!)

And if you understand any of this, join the geek club.  Two characters
come
to mind:  Anyone remember Poindexter in Felix The Cat from Romper Room or
the yellow chick in the Fog Horn Leg Horn cartoon in the Bugs Bunny Road
Runner Show?

Walt (the geek)




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Message: 3
   Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 20:27:17 EDT
   From: jvdmc12@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: D in Star Wars

(Moderators note:  With this posting we're going to kill the Star Wars
thread. If anyone wants you can e-mail Ron directly on this.  Marty, this
weeks moderator)


I have seen the new Star Wars Episode II movie twice now , and that seen
is 
not in the movie, sorry to say but it is computer generated, However
relating 
back to the topic of Industrial Light and Magic wanting BTTF car 
information... who is to say it wont make a cameo in 2005's  final Star
Wars 
film, Episode 3.. just thought id comment that although a cool picture,
that 
it is NOT in the movie...
Just my 2 cents

-Jeff Valenta
1994 Mitsu. 3000GT VR-4
DeLorean VIN ..Coming soon


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 4
   Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 19:32:42 -0700
   From: "David Cox" <dmcox@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Delorean owners in Tucson, AZ - want to get together?

I will be driving to Tucson from San Diego, arriving sometime on the
afternoon of Thursday, 25 Jul, and departing early on Sunday morning, 28
Jul.  If there are any events going on during that time, or anyone in the
area would be interested in getting together, please contact me at
dmcox@xxxxxxxxxxxxx  Given the temperatures in Yuma this time of the year,
I'll definately know how well my a/c is working by the time this trip is
done!

Dave
vin 16367




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Message: 5
   Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 01:29:11 -0400
   From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Stereo suggestions

here are pics of the new radio i installed (Houston bracket used)
and the new rear speakers
http://www.abato.net/web/dmcspeak/index.htm
and
http://www.abato.net/web/dmcradio/index.htm

-----Original Message-----
From: dmc83_gullwing [mailto:jasperkins@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Subject: [DML] Stereo suggestions

Ok the time has come for me to upgrade my factory cassette, and
speakers.
Thanks,
Jason
#16665



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Message: 6
   Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 09:59:30 -0000
   From: "janvdwouw" <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: RPM-relay relay

John Hervey wrote:
> Jan, I have the small relays that go in the door lock module, 
> They are almost an exact fit. 
[snip]
> The relay's in the RPM now coil resistance is 58.8 ohms
> in the circuit, the new relay's I have are reading 122 ohms
> out of the circuit. Most likley the won't work without changing
> the resistance to match. 

I'm allraedy further down the road: I bought a heavy (40A rated)
automotive relay that has a coil resistance of 84ohm.
I've allready taken out the original relay and have put in
wiring to connect the new relay to.
The new relay is either going to be mounted to the RPM-housing
or I'm going to put it next to the relay on the sheetmetal in the car.

The only thing the coil is connected with is pin 15 giving it 12V 
after ignition and the collector of a BC338. The BC338 pulls
the coil to ground (well allmost; you lose about 1,4V because 
of the transistor and a diode agains reversed polarity).

I will make some pictures of my modification and put them
on the web in the next couple of days.
Thanks,

Jan van de Wouw
Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000

--------------------------------
With the higher resistance of the coil the transistor has to 
carry less load (150mA opposed to 200mA), so apart from 
putting in (or on) the new relay nothing needs to be modified.





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Message: 7
   Date: Fri, 19 Jul 2002 10:08:56 -0000
   From: "janvdwouw" <jvdwouw@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: driving with doors open?

--- In dmcnews, Martin Gutkowski wrote:
> My real reason for this post is to relate something that 
> happenned on the way home from Supercar Sunday this
> last weekend. 
[snip]
> Jan van de Wouw drove over from Holland to attend and
> we convoyed up from Kent to Birmingham (about 200  miles).
> 
> On the way home on Sunday, with just myself and Jan in 
> convoy, we hit  traffic on the M25 
[snip]
> It was a hot day, and with my AC cycling too quickly, and 
> Jan's not working at all, we just popped the doors. 
[snip]
> It was a lot of fun, and something entirely practical 
> you could only achieve in the DeLorean!

I totally agree with Martin, the experience was great; some 
people asked me if I was going back to the future; well in
fact I was; just one hour, but I was :-)

The only downside I found on driving this way is not having
a mirror, so a couple of passing motorbikes startled me
and when all of a sudden we could make speed again 
I pulled the dor closed while in motion. BAD IDEA!

Because of inertia and wind this caused my door to partially
jam on the front latch pin. Not too bad fortunately, but just
enough to not be able to open the door as usual.
When standing still I close my door with both hands to guide 
it a bit more and close it properly. I obviously couldn't do that
while driving, so I used one hand and couldn't guide anything.

In conclusion|: driving with doors up; fine if not too fast and on 
level surface, but close them while standing still of you could 
wind up crawling out over the center console...

Jan van de Wouw
Thinking Different...   Using a Mac...
Living the Dream...   Driving a DeLorean...

#05141 "Dagger" since Sept. 2000

--------------------------------





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