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There are 17 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: PJ grady visit, Purchasing questions.
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Thank You
From: wingd2@xxxxxxx
3. Re: cold running problem
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Oxygen Sensor & LAMBDA Counter.
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: RE. winter brake fluid leakage update
From: "Graham WELLS" <gwells@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: A new alternator problem! (And a radar detector install to boot)
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Storing CD's in car..
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
8. JZD interview
From: "Joe Sorrentino" <joeytino@xxxxxxxxxxx>
9. New Member, Delorean owners in missouri
From: "profoundwhip" <profoundwhip@xxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Starter soleniod Circuit Upgrade question
From: tonilfhs98@xxxxxxx
11. Don't give up on your original horns
From: "stevepeck1" <stevepeck1@xxxxxxxxx>
12. Possible Frozen Fuel Gauge
From: "Willie Mack" <wmack@xxxxxx>
13. Re: Rebuilding / Replacing the CPR
From: "dmcman82" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: RE: door opener actuators
From: "Michael Quinto" <mquinto@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. The AZ-D thanks Rob Grady
From: "Ryan McCaffrey" <ryanjm@xxxxxxx>
16. Re: turbocharging?
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. ELECTRICAL BLUES
From: Lance Haslewood <lanceh@xxxxxxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 15:14:19 -0500
From: "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: PJ grady visit, Purchasing questions.
> If you don't spend it on the car, you'll just spend it on
> something else like housing, girls, food and other insignificant stuff.
Never
> pass up spending on the Delorean. It will be around when all others are
gone.
Can I nominate this post as the "DML Post of the Month". Nothing could be
more true or to the point (and equally funny). Perhaps we can get this
printed up as a daily affirmation to affix to our visors as a reminder of
our real priorities. Thanks John.
-Hank #1619
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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 12:22:52 EST
From: wingd2@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Thank You
Joe,
On behalf of the DML and the Delorean community, we would like to offer our
sincerest condolences to you and your family on the loss of your child. Our
thoughts and prayers are with you.
Marty, this weeks moderator
To other DML members who wish to share their thoughts: Please send your
notes directly to DMC Joe's website -www.DMC.tv - and not the DML. Joe is not
currently monitoring the DML. Any postings that do end up coming to the DML
will be forwarded to DMC Joe.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 3
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 20:53:33 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: cold running problem
Before replacing the CPR try to test and rule out the other systems
that operate during warm-up. The only difinative test is to use a fuel
pressure gauge set or direct replacement to verify CPR troubles. If
your air fuel mixture is off it could cause these symptoms. If the air
bleed adjustment screws are not closed and the motor isn't running on
the idle motor air it would also cause a lean condition giving the
same symptoms. Make sure that there aren't any vacuum leaks, plug and
or inspect all vacuum hoses. A far out cause is that the tmming is off
and an even further posibility is a tight or burnt intake valve.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Tony Pistachio <TheStash@xxxx> wrote:
> Andy,
> I have the exact same symptom! Well, almost:
> First I want to point out that I always give my cars at least 60
seconds
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Message: 4
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 20:44:28 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Oxygen Sensor & LAMBDA Counter.
Sometimes removing the O2 sensor requires a big wrench and a strong
pull to "encourage" it to loosen. In some cases some exhaust parts are
loose and come off with your fingers, you never know. Since you are at
a service mark (30,000) or a multiple you are also supposed to check
and if neccesary adjust the intake and exhaust valves. Before you
start get 2 valve cover gaskets as they will need to be replaced. In
reality it doesn't seem to do any harm skipping adjusting the valves
as they seem to hold their adjustment well. Do a compression test to
verify. The O2 sensor also seems to last a lot longer than 30,000
miles but the EPA decided that that was the interval that they wanted.
I would use the 30,000 mile mark as the opertunity to do major service
work as that 30,000 was based also on driving approx 10,000 per year.
Replace all fluids, ignition parts, fuel parts, test electrical
system, etc. BTW be careful with the Anti-seize. Make sure it is ONLY
on the threads, not the sensor itself as it could become contaminated.
A little bit goes a long way!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxx> wrote:
> Las week I replaced my old Oxygen Sensor, and reset the LAMBDA
> counter. By everything I've seen with other posts, I was prepared
for
> a hard task. Quite the opposite. This has been quite possibly the
> easiest repair I've ever done. The Oxygen Sensor came out with a
> slight tug from a cresent wrench. A little anti seize compound on
the
> threads, and the new one went in. Fishing the wire thru the chassis
> and into the ECU compartment was a breeze. If you pull the plug
> inwards, out of the hole, you can dis/reconnect the Sensor wire very
> quickly.
>
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Message: 5
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 20:54:56 -0000
From: "Graham WELLS" <gwells@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: RE. winter brake fluid leakage update
I think if you check the Frost Auto Restoration Techniques catalogue
01706 658619 you will find that they sell POR 15 available in black,
silver, or clear.
Garham
Norfolk UK 102
----- Original Message -----
From: "jamesrguk" <dmc12@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [DML] RE. winter brake fluid leakage update
> I had a similar problem although it did not look quite as bad as
> yours on the surface anyway.
> I used Hammerite, but everyone raves about POR15, I don't know if it
> is availible in the UK, (if it is could somone let me know where
> from.)
> James RG
> England
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Message: 6
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 21:08:07 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: A new alternator problem! (And a radar detector install to boot)
Maybe if this alternater problem was properly diagnosed before
throwing parts at the problem someone might have noticed the bulb was
missing before going through the expense and trouble of removing and
replacing the alternater only to find out it wasn't the source of the
trouble! Mechanics do this all the time to the expense of the owners
who trust the mechanic to "fix it right the first time". Since you
can't take the alternater back to the store he leaves it in and tells
the customer it was the alternater when in fact it was a 90 cent bulb
and a $2 bulb holder. By avoiding the diagnoses step you don't skip it
if you guessed wrong. I always prefer to know the source of a problem
to the extent I can before I condemm things to the trash bin. You have
no idea how many good parts get thrown away by "mechanics" with the
customers paying all the way. All this might have taken was to take a
look at the alternater light with the key on and motor not running! If
it doesn't light up something is wrong in the circuit and may be the
thing preventing the alternater from charging. A quick glance at the
indicater bulbs on start-up verifys that the circuit is functioning
and the bulbs aren't burnt out. This is good advice for most cars!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
-- In dmcnews@xxxx, "dmcman82" <srubano@xxxx> wrote:
> This problem has come up a lot in the past. Maybe the vendors who
> sell aftermarket alternators designed for the D supply a bulb with
> it? The bulbs are 20 years old and one can only guess when they are
> going to blow. Could you imagine getting stuck on the side of a road
> because of a bulb?!
>
> Steve
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Message: 7
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 21:33:56 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Storing CD's in car..
Vegas heat has been pretty kind to my CD's. I have a 10 disc changer
mounted in the trunk. CD-R's on the other hand are a different story.
Whenever they get hot, they always start to skip when I hit bumps.
Although as a general info for everything else, Black CD-R's discs do
not have this problem. When the temp hits like 120, they will still
read just as well. Problem is now, I can't find a retailer that sells
these discs now! If it's not one thing, it's another....
For the record though, I will make one reccomendation. If you want
multple songs, but don't want to mount a CD changer, you may want to
opt for an MP3 player. In dash, or external is up to you. When I get
the $, an iPod will be the next thing for my car. A long enough cord,
and it can sit in the change holder behind the ashtray on the center
console. And it's small enough that I can take it with me to prevent
it from heat damage by leaving it in the car. But what ever player
that suits your size and memory requirements should work just fine.
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
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Message: 8
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 21:01:52 +0000
From: "Joe Sorrentino" <joeytino@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: JZD interview
I haven't seen mention of this, but JZD was interviewed by Ward's Auto, and
here is a link to the interview. I don't know if it will appear in the
printed version, but I have to give Ward's credit as it's a pretty balanced
job.
Here's the link:
best regards to all:
Joe Sorrentino
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp.
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Message: 9
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 23:10:38 -0000
From: "profoundwhip" <profoundwhip@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: New Member, Delorean owners in missouri
Hello all,
Ive just joined this list in the past couple days, and already I have
learned alot from the previous posts. There are so many to go
through It will take me a while.
I was wondering how many delorean owners there are in Missouri on the
list. If possible Id love to come by and take a look and learn as
much as I can from any of you. Feel free to email me privately.
FYI-I will be in Las vegas march 4th-8th, and will be unable to check
my email.
Hope to hear from you all soon.
Regards,
Paul
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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 20:43:14 EST
From: tonilfhs98@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Starter soleniod Circuit Upgrade question
What is a starter solenoid upgrade? How can I tell if I have that installed?
Thanks
Bill
#2157
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 11
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 16:35:31 -0000
From: "stevepeck1" <stevepeck1@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Don't give up on your original horns
I just took mine apart and cleaned out the mud-wasp nests with hot
water. Created a new outer gasket with an exacto knife (out of a
plastic ziploc bag. Re-assembled and "tuned" with the adjusting
bolt, and HONK, good as new. Whole procedure, both sides in under an
hour.
One of mine only hummed, the other only clicked. Both now operate
like new.
Good luck. If you'd like, you can send me part of the $40 you just
saved!
Steve Peck #3302
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Message: 12
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 12:17:32 -0500
From: "Willie Mack" <wmack@xxxxxx>
Subject: Possible Frozen Fuel Gauge
This morning when I started my D up to go to class the fuel gauge was pegged
straight up. Luckly when I came back from class around noon and started her
up again, everything was back to normal. Is this something that I should be
concerned with or just come to expect on really cold mornings.
Thanks
Willie Mack
Vin 5043
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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 01:06:54 -0000
From: "dmcman82" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Rebuilding / Replacing the CPR
The only way to tell if it is the CPR that is bad you'll need a fuel
pressure tester made for the Bosch K-Tronic system. You don't want
to go guessing and swapping parts out on the fuel system as the
parts are expensive. With the pressure tester you'll be able to tell
if it's the CPR or if you may have a fuel pressure problem (to
high/to low).
Steve
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Message: 14
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 18:41:57 -0800
From: "Michael Quinto" <mquinto@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: RE: door opener actuators
Darryl and list,
The 15lb solenoids I had in my car don't even weigh 16 ounces. And the 50lb
Solenoids I have installed now are only a little heavier. No where near 5 to
6 pounds as Darryl claims.
Your door handles inner and outer are the easiest places to pull from.
Unfortunately you can't put your actuator or solenoid there. I had tapped
into the upper armature to open the doors with the my old 15's with the 50's
I had to relocate to the bottom part of the armature. If you want to take a
measurement for pull take it from the area you will be mounting your unit.
Sure the Solenoids draw more amps but only for a second. And anyone who
chooses Solenoids over Actuators don't have to buy ones with 50lb of pull.
Autoloc sells 35lb as well. I traded mine out because I wasn't happy with
VPA's 15lb Solenoids. I have been happy with autolocs, There 15lb Solenoids
just might work as well. They seem better made.
Curious, Darryl where do you install your actuators on your doors? Are they
push/pull actuators? Who makes them?
How many pounds of pull are they?
Regards,
Mike
> Try pulling up on your inner or outer door release handle with one finger.
If it takes more than the 15lb. pull my actuators have, you have some other
things to fix before going for remote opening doors. Why put in a 5 or 6
pound solenoid that draws heavy amperage and adds unnecessary weight when a
4 ounce motorized actuator will do the job? I have sold lots of them and
have not had a return or complaint yet.
>
> Darryl Tinnerstet
> Specialty Automotive
> McCleary, WA
> www.delorean-parts.com
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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2002 21:26:59 -0700
From: "Ryan McCaffrey" <ryanjm@xxxxxxx>
Subject: The AZ-D thanks Rob Grady
Dear List,
I wanted to publicly thank Rob Grady on behalf of the Arizona DeLorean Club
for taking time out of his vacation to spend an entire day introducing
himself and his business to our club. Rob and his wife Debby are on
vacation up in the cooler, more relaxing northern portion of Arizona this
week, and Rob was kind enough to spend an afternoon with our club before
heading up north. He even managed to diagnose a few problems on a few cars
while he was here.
I’d also like to thank Ken Koncelik for extending his business trip to talk
about DeLorean Car Show 2002 in Memphis with our group, and additional
thanks go out to Dan Deutsch (thanks for coming, amigo!) and Jim Reeve for
making the trip as well and lending a hand to those who needed it. I hope
you both enjoyed your first trip to Arizona!
Even though you won’t see this (for a while anyway), thanks Rob—you made a
lot of new friends.
Ryan McCaffrey
#10014
Arizona DeLorean Club
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 16
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 05:11:00 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: turbocharging?
The picture you're referring to (if it's the one on my site) is Tony Lawther's car, and
he has the BAE single turbo kit that was available in the early years of the DeLorean's
existence. There are a number of cars in the US with this installation. It was a kit made
for the D. There are a couple of supercharged D's but fewer in number, and ALL kits,
super or turbo, are simple bolt-on affairs. Even the Island kit employs some seriously
cheap and cheerful methods in its fuelling.
Martin
#1458
Casey Putsch wrote:
> I have heard of and seen a picture from england of people putting a single
> turbocharger on their Delorean. I am curious as to if any of you out there
> may have pictures of turbo instalations
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Message: 17
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2002 20:35:54 +1100
From: Lance Haslewood <lanceh@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: ELECTRICAL BLUES
I'm currently having a problem with the electrical system and would be
grateful if someone might be able to offer some advice or perhaps a
solution. As I attempt to start the engine, the No7 fuse blows. This fuse
powers the Lambda Relay, Lambda ECU, Frequency Valve, Fuel Pump and Control
Pressure Regulator. Relay No28 (Start Inhibit) is also powered via Fuse No 7.
In trying to isolate the problem, I've substituted the fuel pump with
another as well as the No 28 Relay, but the fuse still pops. I'm hoping
that the solution is a simple one, but trying to find it has proved beyond
my capacity. This problem started just a few days ago while my son was
using the car. I had to have it brought home on a tilt-tray truck. Not
good publicity to see a 'D' on the back of a truck!!
Thanking you in an anticipation.
Lance Haslewood
Australia
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