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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Intalling Bumper Letters
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
2. RE: Replacement DMC Housont Radio Console Woes
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: brake fluid leakage
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Can you grease those squeaky shocks?
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Leaky Radiator
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Which new product are you interested in?
From: "C. C. Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1@xxxxxxx>
7. It's finally in my garage!!!
From: Tony Pistachio <TheStash@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Replacement DMC Housont Radio Console Woes
From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Coils
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
10. Re: WAS John Delorean and Reliability...NOW saving the cars (LONG)
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Which new product are you interested in?
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. RE: Replacement DMC Housont Radio Console Woes
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
13. RE: Intalling Bumper Letters
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. BBC New article on Delorean
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. Paper DeLorean
From: "Stragand, Dave" <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: It's finally in my garage!!!
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Re: BBC New article on Delorean
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: MY tight steering problem!
From: "shirazcupala" <shirazcupala@xxxxxxxxx>
19. RE: Re: Coils
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: It's finally in my garage!!!
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
21. Re: Re: Coils
From: wingd2@xxxxxxx
22. RE: It's finally in my garage!!!
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
23. Shocks/Springs
From: "dmc812001" <stamberino@xxxxxxx>
24. Wet Carpets
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
25. Re: It's finally in my garage!!!
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade@xxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 23:40:51 EST
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx
Subject: Intalling Bumper Letters
HI List,
Today I went into storage to install the New stainless bumper letters
from Gradys. I cleaned the bumper with alcohol but the letters would just
not stick. It was about 65 inside so I dont think it was too cold. should I
use 3m emblem glue? I have used that for moldings in the past and it worked
well but is there anything better?
thanks
David
#6286-waking up this weekend
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Message: 2
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 22:55:09 -0500
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Replacement DMC Housont Radio Console Woes
Contact the Mid-State DMC club. I can't remember the guys name who made the brackets for them, but he could probably tell you how to finish it properly.
-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Abato [mailto:delorean@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2002 4:24 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: [DML] Replacement DMC Housont Radio Console Woes
So Mark, What do you suggest I do? DMC Houston only offers it one way.
I really want to use it, but If painting is not a good option, I am open to
other suggestions....
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 04:49:05 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: brake fluid leakage
There should be NO brake fluid leakage under any conditions, hot or
cold, storage or use. In the event of ANY leakage noticed by either
the level going down or signs of leakage it must be taken seriously
and fixed as soon as possible. Examine each caliper, hose, and brake
line. Inspect the master cylinder and if you don't see any external
leaks inspect the inside of the vacuum hose at the power brake
booster. Bleed the brakes and only use Castrol GTLMA DOT 4 Brake
fluid. It needs to be changed every 2 years as per the owner's manual.
If the level is going down take that as a warning to go over one of
the most important systems of any car (Steering to be the MOST
important.)
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Hank Eskin" <heskin@xxxx> wrote:
> Hello All,
>
> I've begun to notice that when my D sits for more than a week
(usually
> two weeks during the winter), I'm losing a bit of brake fluid. I
check it
> every time I take the car out (since my float broke last year), and
I have
> to top it off most of the time. I do not seem to lose any fluid
after
> driving the car (up to 100 miles), as I check it when I return as
well.
> What could be the most common leakage areas I can check? The car is
> -Hank #1619
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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 04:52:33 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Can you grease those squeaky shocks?
One of the signs of a failing shock is noise. Another would be signs
of dampness (leakage). If the noise is comming from the mounting a
shot of silicone lube is OK but a noisy or squeaky shock is telling
you that it is bad. Spraying lube on a bad shock will just delay the
inevitable.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "dmc83_gullwing" <jasperkins@xxxx> wrote:
> Everytime I go over a any type of bump, my shocks squeak. They dont
> bounce all around as if they were bad, they just squeak. Is there
> anything that I can grease or lube to get all the squeaks out?
>
> Thanks,
> Jason
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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 05:01:01 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Leaky Radiator
The origional radiaters have plastic end tanks and they will
eventually leak. The radiater could also have a rotten tube. Replace
the radiater before you either blow out the tube and have a big leak
or you blow the end tank off. Take small things as a warning of big
things to come! The replacement radiaters now have brass end tanks
soldered on so if you change your anti-freeze before it becomes
corrosive the radiater will last forever. Replacing the radiater is
not a small job as it has to be done from under the raised car. Take
no chances with the cooling system because although the PRV-6 is very
durable it doesn't like being overheated!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Aaron PETERSON" <mrroboto1@xxxx> wrote:
> On my DeLorean, I have noticed that the radiator is leaking
ant-freeze only when it sits; not when it is running. I crawled under
the car and there is no anti-freeze leaking out of any of the hoses ,
but there is anti-freeze leaking out of the bolts that holds up the
air vent, right under the front bumper. I notice puddles of
anti-freeze right by the front driver side tire. That is the only
place where it leaks. I was wondering is worse comes to worse and the
radiator needs to be replaced, is that a special made radiator or will
another radiator from another model car will work just as good? Thanks
a lot!
>
> Aaron
> car#7126
> Take Pride In Yourself!
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 00:12:31 -0500
From: "C. C. Cameron Putsch" <putsch.1@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Which new product are you interested in?
I have created a poll that will conclude Febuary 25th on which bolt on part you would be most interested in.
A machined shift knob to match the car
A shift gate like in a Ferarri
Or a stainless replacement for the panel around the shifter
Please vote as I will be offering them at Putsch Performance Design in the order they are most demanded in.
Sincerely, Casey at chaparral2a002@xxxxxxxxxxx http://putschdesign.tripod.com/PPD/
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 7
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 21:46:22 -0500
From: Tony Pistachio <TheStash@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: It's finally in my garage!!!
Hi,
I've included my original e-mail below since it's been a while and I also had to change my ISP.
Well I finally got my first D from Rob at PJ Grady's. It was a consignment deal and looks a whole lot better then it did before they started work on it! Although the three pages of services that were done on it weren't cheap, I was really still quite surprised at how great it looked. I had to glance at the VIN# to be sure it was the same one. They are top notch down there.
Picked it up Thursday night. I'm sure it'll be happier here driving on long winding country roads then in the city's pot hole ridden, stop-n-go nowhere mayhem. The drive out of LI was just a huge traffic nightmare. It wasn't even rush hour! I don't know how people can deal with it every day. "Thank God I'm a country boy!"
Anyway, I had a few small problems and questions:
Friday night the alternator belt fell off and Saturday the Passenger side power window stopped working. The window came to a grinding halt about midway and only goes clicl click click no matter what direction you try to go. The window was working fine before, so PJG had no reason to touch it. I took the regulator/motor out this morning and Rob is sending me a new one. I'm using a wire tie through the small hole at the rear window track bracket to keep the window up until the part comes. The belt and water pump on the other hand was just replaced. I'm sure it's just a freak occurrence but can't help asking the question to the group if this belt flying off happened to anybody else?
Is it bad to leave the doors fully open for long periods of time to air out the musty smell? Of course being garaged and disconnecting the dome light switches. It seems like a good thing (if you can keep the cat out of it) because there's less tension on the door torsion bars.
The front end creaks. Referring to a previous note "Can you grease those squeaky shocks?" How do you know it's the shocks that are squeaking and not something else?
Tony Pistachio
#10781 BDX-6324
Wappingers Falls, NY
----- Original Message -----
From: Tony Pistachio
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2001 10:14 PM
Subject: Almost there...
Just wanted to share my excitement with the group.
Today I locked in a deal with Rob Grady on #10781.
Thanks for the advice Dan!
Tony Pistachio
Soon to be #10781
Wappingers Falls, NY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 8
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 18:00:37 -0800
From: id <ionicdesign@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Replacement DMC Housont Radio Console Woes
try covering the exposed metal with black electrical tape? ( i have also done this
before in my 1989 ford ranger) i dont know why would houston offer a part that would
make your interior look ugly by using it AND expect to sell the ugly part.
mark
Kevin Abato wrote:
> So Mark, What do you suggest I do? DMC Houston only offers it one way.
> I really want to use it, but If painting is not a good option, I am open to
> other suggestions....
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Marc A. Levy [mailto:malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Monday, February 18, 2002 12:18 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: RE: [DML] Replacement DMC Housont Radio Console Woes
>
> I remember you saying this was a gift..
>
> Back when I ordered my bracket from the MidState DMC club, they were
> offering it in both Black and Stainless. I opted to get the stainless.
>
> The Houston web site does not seem to offer this as a option, but it's
> possible that it may have been and your wife ordered the SS version. Why
> not call them and ask?
>
> Don't paint it black. It is supposed to be textured, and I think this can
> be recreated with the correct process and paint. The Mid-State DMC club did
> offer a replica that matched the stock look (I saw it in Ohio). However, if
> it were me I would call Houston and ask. If it is not what you want, return
> it.
>
> I don't think Mid-State sells the part any more (they don't like to compete
> with Houston I guess), so you may not have too many other options.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Kevin Abato [mailto:delorean@xxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2002 2:20 PM
> To: Dmcnews (E-mail)
> Subject: [DML] Replacement DMC Housont Radio Console Woes
>
> (Please go to this web page pictures to ref. the topic below:
> http://24.46.235.195:81/images/temp/)
> Below (http://24.46.235.195:81/images/temp/) is a picture of my original OEM
> console with the new DIN cut replacement console from DMC Houston on the
> right. My question is, When I install the new DMC console, it does not have
> a black finish like the original. I originally realized this problem when I
> bought the console, but DMC Houston assured me that the vents, and radio
> cover all surface areas. This is not true.
> If you see below, the red arrows show areas on the ORIGINAL console that are
> visable to the naked eye (even when the center console is on the unit) and
> those SAME areas on the replacement one now look like silver sheet metal.
> What is the correct thing to do here? I bought this $150 replacement so that
> the car looks unmodified. If I use this unit, IT WILL STAND OUT.
> Should I spray paint it black? Will that still look good when done? What
> have other people done? What does DMC Houston recommend to other buyers?
> Kevin Abato
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 09:03:40 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Coils
ACK! Avoid the Accel ignition coils! I installed on in my car, and it
was a nightmare! Granted, I had problems with my frequencey
valve not being properly connected. So the engine ran horribly.
But after installing the Accel coil, my car wouldn't even start! I had
to get a jump anytime I needed to crank the engine so the coil
could generate enough power to turn the engine over. I switched
back over the the original coil that came with the car, and I got it
to start on the frist crank!
Stick with a coil from one of the vendors. I have a 20 year old
NOS coil in my car, and it works just fine to get me going!
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, jwit6@xxxx wrote:
> In a message dated 2/18/02 3:59:05 PM Eastern Standard
Time, wingd2@xxxx
> writes:
>
> << The "fix" I used on my turbo car was to install an aftermarket
high
> performance coil.
<SNIP>
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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 11:30:00 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: WAS John Delorean and Reliability...NOW saving the cars (LONG)
Wow, where to begin. Many thanks to John Dore for his
comments. I've always written basicly just my thoughts and
feelings about the certain subjects. I am glad to know that others
do agree with me. In all honesty, it means alot to me that it all
ment at leat a little something to someone. I just hope that I've
helped put certain things into new perspectives for others to see.
Once again, thank you very much!
Why hasn't JZD been able to attend any conventions before?
Well, my guess for one is that he's been pretty busy trying to fight
his legal battles for one thing. Amongst others, I would imagine
it would have to be that perhaps he has been unsure of the
climate. Yes, both the internet and the DML have come to spread
an enormous amount of information about the car. And I would
imagine that it has also helped to inform JZD about how the
majority of owners feel about their cars. So I think that in that
respect, it has worked both ways for JZD and us owners. As far
appriciation, certain jokes and the like, I'm going to say this.
These are obviously two very sore areas for myself. And to be
honest, I am quite hesitant as to comment other than to say I
absolutely hate any kind of slander or disrespect twards the car,
company, or man. I don't want to get into what an owner should
or shouldn't be. I would like to think that ALL owners respect all 3
equally. It really is my feeling that if you own a DeLorean, you
owe it to yourself, the car, and others to ask you questions to be
as knowledgeable about all 3. Reading all available print and
material about them is an absolute must. If nothing else, the
benefit to yourself of understanding more about the car is at the
very least priceless.
On a more somber note, history has a way of repeating itself,
and I don't want to divide anyone by trying to say that one person
is a better, or more "loyal" owner than the next. With every
marque, there are those that may simply own a car to say that
they do. And even then, some may speak of owning in passing,
while others may be complely indifferent, and not care as to what
they say about the car/marque. I don't want to divide owners into
"North and South", or "Who's Living the Dream vs. Who's simply
daydreaming the idea". But at the very least, I do belive that
telling a "coke jokes" @ a DeLorean convention is quite
tasteless. That would pretty much go beyond simply being a
"Turd in a puchbowl". That's more like a Porta-Potty in the middle
of the Vatican...
Now, onto other subjects!
As far as KAPAC is concerned, if they hadn't of been around,
someone else would have picked up the slack. Granted, parts
may not have been as centralized, but they still would have been
available some how, some way. The local mechanic who works
on my car is DeLorean Certified. And according to him, after JZD
was arrested, phone calls all across the country were made in
efforts to keep both parts and service available. As well as all
info to owners. I can't remember who exactly, but it was a groups
that was working with the at the time current owners club (NOT
the DOA). Efforts were made, and paid off. A network of service
centers became available, and parts were kept plentiful. KAPAC
was the source of parts because they had the remaining stock,
but they did not establish the network that lasted quite a few
years to sustain our cars. No matter what, a way would have
been found.
Did Back to the Future save the cars? That's a yes and no
question. It ranks right up there with "Which came first: The
Chicken, or the Egg." BTTF has done quite it's share of making
the car known. But the majority of people who own DeLoreans,
reguardless of where/when/how they first learned of them do so
because they fall in love with the car. Probably not because they
want to be Marty McFly, or Doc Brown. A question that will
probably never have a 100% black and white answer... But to say
that they simply didn't have interest, I can't fully agree with.
As far as car buffs are concerned, I disregard their "professional"
opinions. A while back, there was a specal on the Discovery
Channel I believe. It was about how auto mfg's design cars. And
there was a very interesting quote from a test driver down in
Southern California who worked @ the Nissan design studios.
His job is to drive the cars thru a daily routine, and see how they
perform, and function. He only gets to drive the vehicles for a
couple of weeks at a time. He basicly said that when he has a
car he is uncomfortalbe with, he always looks forward to turning
it back in. But he hates it even more to drive a car he likes. By the
time he finally starts to get used to it, or even enjoy it. it gets
taken away... So, to summerize, what could a "Car Buff", or even
a "Professional" possibly know about the quality/performance/
enjoyability of my car when they can't even take the time to truly
get familiar with it? Everytime I've seen a "Professiona;" do an
article on the DeLorean's performance, they're out on the track",
and only for a few hours at the most. I've yet to see someone put
it thru a real world test.
As far as where all the rest of the DeLoreans that are MIA are at,
try looking in people's backyards and garages. As far as social
gatherings and the like go with my car, I'm mostly a recluse. If
you happen to see me on the street, consider yourself lucky. It's
easier to find Waldo than it is me. And I've met a few owners by
chance, and they are the same way. The local garage where the
DeLoreans in town are all serviced doen't share info with others
about the cars. Not even between owners! All this time, and who
knew that 4 other DeLoreans were all within a 10 mile radious of
my house! Those missing cars aren't wrecked. They're just
hidden! :)
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
p.s. Congrats John, I hope the car works out!
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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 09:20:28 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Which new product are you interested in?
The german guy who had one in his car at Eurofest said it was impossible
to make a "one-fits-all" shift gate as all cars are different. He had tried.
Martin
#1458
C. C. Cameron Putsch wrote:
>I have created a poll that will conclude Febuary 25th on which bolt on part you would be most interested in.
>
>A shift gate like in a Ferarri
>
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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 05:20:46 -0500
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Replacement DMC Housont Radio Console Woes
hmmm...interesting Marty...
I think I will give this a try. I will keep you all posted on how it comes
out.
-----Original Message-----
From: wingd2@xxxxxxx [mailto:wingd2@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2002 8:56 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] Replacement DMC Housont Radio Console Woes
In a message dated 2/18/02 4:34:02 PM Central Standard Time,
delorean@xxxxxxxxx writes:
> So Mark, What do you suggest I do? DMC Houston only offers it one way.
> I really want to use it, but If painting is not a good option, I am open
to
> other suggestions....
>
>
Kevin,
Mark is correct, I/we (MidState Delorean Club) no longer make the
replacement radio bracket because the guys at DMC Houston are now making
one.
What I used to do to achieve the "original" black grained finish on the
bracket is to use a black "wrinkle" type spray paint. This stuff is
available
at most auto parts stores and by playing with it and trying a few different
techniques, you can come real close to matching the original finish.
Good luck, Marty
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 08:11:51 -0500
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Intalling Bumper Letters
As Ken K. demonstrated on Danrc30's car, the surface you want to stick to must be *VERY* clean. Especially if you use cosmetic chemicals (like armor all) on the area. A quick swipe with alcohol will not remove the layers of silicone (I think that's what it is) from the bumper.
If you have already tried to stick the letters on a dirty bumper, you will need to replace the tape on them. Contact Rob to see what flavor of tape he uses. I don't remember what chemicals Ken used on Dan's car so hopefully one of them will send you that information, but I can tell you the two of them were working on the door sills for a good 10-15 min's cleaning all of the silicone off until the black plastic was dull. After the job is done, you can re-coat the area with your favorite shine agent.
-----Original Message-----
From: Delorean17@xxxxxxx [mailto:Delorean17@xxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2002 11:41 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Intalling Bumper Letters
HI List,
Today I went into storage to install the New stainless bumper letters
from Gradys. I cleaned the bumper with alcohol but the letters would just
not stick. It was about 65 inside so I dont think it was too cold. should I
use 3m emblem glue? I have used that for moldings in the past and it worked
well but is there anything better?
thanks
David
#6286-waking up this weekend
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 14:36:15 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: BBC New article on Delorean
Cheers to Allan for the link:-
-------- Original Message --------
Hi all,
Thus morning while checking the news on the BBC web Site I found this
article.
Here is the link
http://news.bbc.co.uk/hi/english/uk/newsid_1827000/1827617.stm
Cheers.
Allan
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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 09:59:16 -0500
From: "Stragand, Dave" <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Paper DeLorean
This just got submitted to the webring. It's a neat little page you print, cut out, and fold to make a little paper DeLorean to play with.
http://papertoys.com/delorean.htm
-Dave Stragand
VIN #05927
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 15:03:18 -0000
From: "jtrealtywebspannet" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: It's finally in my garage!!!
The belt falling off is not common. Causes are pulleys out of
alignment, bad belt, bad bearing on idler pulley, loose belt, bent
pulley. Put it back on if all of the pulleys look lined up and the
idler pulleys turn easy. If it falls off again get another belt. The
window regulater failure is common, just replace the regulater with
the improved replacement. Keeping the doors open is fine as long as
you are sure no "critters" will get inside and trash the interior. A
common source of squeaks in the front is the coil springs. As the
lower control arm goes up and down the bottom of the coil spring tends
to move around a little. Just spray some lube on the lower coil spring
perch. It could also be the sway bar bushings. To find the source of
the squeaks have someone push up and down on the car while you go
under to find the point causing the noise. Use a lube that is
compatible with rubber. Some lubricants will quickly destroy rubber
parts. One great thing about Deloreans is that with a lot of elbow
grease the stainless can look like new!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Tony Pistachio <TheStash@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi,
> I've included my original e-mail below since it's been a while and I
also had to change my ISP.
>
> Well I finally got my first D from Rob at PJ Grady's. It was a
consignment deal and looks a whole lot better then it did before they
started work on it! Although the three pages of services that were
done on it weren't cheap, I was really still quite surprised at how
great it looked. I had to glance at the VIN# to be sure it was the
same one. They are top notch down there.
>
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 15:39:26 +0000
From: Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: BBC New article on Delorean
Just so the archives are complete, I've mirrored this page so we don't
lose it. It's linked from my News page and the collection of Other
Pages. All at www.delorean.co.uk
Martin
DOC UK
Martin Gutkowski wrote:
> Cheers to Allan for the link:-
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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 16:44:21 -0000
From: "shirazcupala" <shirazcupala@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: MY tight steering problem!
When I read this thread I thought I had originally posted, right
down to the wife assisting by turning the steering wheel! My U
Joint is indeed lightly scraping against the frame. DMC Joe, could
you briefly explain how to properly align that U joint? Should I
loosent the bolts that grasp the ribbed shaft and then slide that?
thanks,
shiraz
DeLorean #2860
Seattle, WA
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxx> wrote:
> You said:
> "i'm thinking it's either the universal joints on
> the steering shaft or something else in the front suspension."
>
> Andy, you're absolutely correct! The problem is more than likely
that the
> lower steering column universal joint (parts man. 5/2/1 #15) is
not properly
> aligned and making contact with the frame member where it passes
through
> the frame. This area is best serviced through the master cylinder
access
> panel (workshop man. H:05:01 fig. 7).
>
> DMC Joe
> DeLorean Help dmchelp@xxxx
> www.dmc.tv
> http://shopping.oraclesmallbusiness.com/dsvstore
>
> [moderator snip]
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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 10:20:55 -0500
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: Coils
You probably have some other electrical problem that caused the coil to not get enough current to operate correctly.
-----Original Message-----
From: therealdmcvegas [mailto:DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx]
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2002 4:04 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Re: Coils
ACK! Avoid the Accel ignition coils! I installed on in my car, and it
was a nightmare! Granted, I had problems with my frequencey
valve not being properly connected. So the engine ran horribly.
But after installing the Accel coil, my car wouldn't even start! I had
to get a jump anytime I needed to crank the engine so the coil
could generate enough power to turn the engine over. I switched
back over the the original coil that came with the car, and I got it
to start on the frist crank!
<SNIP>
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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 08:57:25 -0000
From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: It's finally in my garage!!!
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, Tony Pistachio <TheStash@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi,
> I've included my original e-mail below since it's been a while
and I also had to change my ISP.
>
> Well I finally got my first D from Rob at PJ Grady's.
<SNIP>
Congradulations!
> Anyway, I had a few small problems and questions:
> Friday night the alternator belt fell off and Saturday the
Passenger side power window stopped working. The window
came to a grinding halt about midway and only goes clicl click
click no matter what direction you try to go.
<SNIP>
> I'm sure it's just a freak occurrence but can't help asking the
question to the group if this belt flying off happened to anybody
else?
<SNIP>
After 20 years, the plastic gears inside of the window motors are
prone to break. The newer heavy-duty regulators are your best
bet.
As for the alternator belt, yes, I've had this same problem myself.
What can cause the belt to come loose is if it is cut by the
Alternator blades. As the alternator spins, the blades will flex
outwards twards the belt. The faster the RPM's, the more the
blades will flex. This condition can happen with one of the
following conditions:
1. Blades on the alternator are already bent.
2. The engine was 'redlined' causing the blades to flex too far.
3. The incorrect belt type was used.
4. The belt was loose.
If the blades are bent, there is a way to repair them. Although it
isn't for the faint of heart. It's in the archives, or I can send you
directions. Over reving the engine will cause the blades to flex
too far, and they will hit the belt. As another note, do not trust
crossover parts to always work properly. This goes for the belt
as well. The Kelly-Springfield belt is WAY too thick. It will not seat
properly in the pulleys, and will come into contact with the blades
under low. high-end RPM's. A belt that fits fine is made by
Dynaflex.
Loose belts are the biggest no-no out there. They are caused by
improper installation. Either the given of under tensioning, or
even overtensioning. If the belt is streched too far, it can strech,
and will loose it's taughtness fairly quickley withing a few
months. Many thanks to DMC Joe for advising me not to
overtension!
> Is it bad to leave the doors fully open for long periods of time to
air out the musty smell? Of course being garaged and
disconnecting the dome light switches. It seems like a good
thing (if you can keep the cat out of it) because there's less
tension on the door torsion bars.
<SNIP>
The best way to air the car out is by driving it! I beleive this topic
was brought up way back, and the concensus was that while it
would releve tension on both the torsion bars, and the struts, it
would hold the door seals above in a streched position. Don't
worry about the torsion bars wearing out. With proper care, they'll
probably outlast the car.
> The front end creaks. Referring to a previous note "Can you
grease those squeaky shocks?" How do you know it's the
shocks that are squeaking and not something else?
<SNIP>
Sounds like it's time to lube the front end! Check one of the
current discussions going on for this one.
Hope this helps!
-Robert
vin 6585 "X"
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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 00:49:27 EST
From: wingd2@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Coils
In a message dated 2/18/02 11:31:44 PM Central Standard Time, jwit6@xxxxxx
writes:
> With the Accel coil is it necessary to keep the ballast resistor and relay
> wiring, or can I run it at a full 12 volts all the time? I'm in the middle
> of
> an engine compartment wiring purge and I'd like get as much of the
> unnecessary wiring out as I can.
> Thanks,
> Jim
>
> Jim,
> I'm still running the original existing ballast resistor with this new
> coil and all the original wiring. I think feeding it a straight 12 volts
> all the time may cause a problem with over heating the coil. You need to
> step the voltage down during normal operation.
As for the relay, we've gone over this one before and if I remember
> relay does nothing and can be eliminated from the system.
> .
Marty
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 22
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 08:16:43 -0500
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: It's finally in my garage!!!
Yes, Please lobby Rob to move his operation off of Long Island. There are lots of nice shore towns (like West Sayville) in the Monmouth County NJ area. :)
-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Pistachio [mailto:TheStash@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2002 9:46 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] It's finally in my garage!!!
<SNIP>
Picked it up Thursday night. I'm sure it'll be happier here driving on long winding country roads then in the city's pot hole ridden, stop-n-go nowhere mayhem. The drive out of LI was just a huge traffic nightmare. It wasn't even rush hour! I don't know how people can deal with it every day. "Thank God I'm a country boy!"
<SNIP>
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Message: 23
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 19:31:13 -0000
From: "dmc812001" <stamberino@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Shocks/Springs
I was wondering if anyone has installed the PJ Grady performance
suspension or the one from DMC Houston on their cars? If so, could
you tell me how the car rides with them? Is it still like a
buckboard? or smooth yet somewhat firm? Any floaty-ness? Harshness?
Also, if you just get the springs, what kind of shocks would you all
recommend? Auto adjustable? Adjustable? Is there an ABS system that
can be added to the car? And Does anyone have Xenon Headlights on
their cars? How are they?
Thanks,
Steve T.
Long Island, NY
#2801
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Message: 24
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 19:40:21 -0000
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Wet Carpets
Since the weather turned cold before Christmas my D has been suffering from immense Condensation on the inside of the windscreen(no other windows).
Through investigation the drivers side foot well carpet got wetter and wetter if the car was out in the rain. However I could find no leaks and none of the side carpeting was wet either, under the seat was dry.
Next the passenger side started to get wet??????
I took the carpets out dried them, and within one heavy downpour they were wet again.
All I could presume was the water was coming in under the dash but there was no wet trails to show.
Sunday with my head wedged up under the Steering column I found the open end of a clear plastic tube, similar to washer tubing that disappeared up into the dash. Could this be the culprit?? I have fed this out through the Speedo cable hole as a temporary measure. I also left the carpet out.
It has now rained 24hrs solid, result no condensation and no wet floor.
What was that pipe? and how is the water getting to the passenger side?
Cheers
Paul
#6463
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2002 15:52:17 -0500
From: "Ed Garbade" <edgarbade@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: It's finally in my garage!!!
Agree with the previous answer re. leaving you door open. Did that in my
Toyota. Rat got in and $247 later I had learned mt lesson. (Apparently he
liked electrical wiring inside doors.)
Ed
10541
>From: Tony Pistachio <TheStash@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>
>Is it bad to leave the doors fully open for long periods of time to air out
>the musty smell? Of course being garaged and disconnecting the dome light
>switches. It seems like a good thing (if you can keep the cat out of it)
>because there's less tension on the door torsion bars.
>
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