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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: overheating
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
2. Re: Noisy fuel pump (still!)
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
3. Re: On Buying a DeLorean...BE CAREFUL!!!!
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
4. Re: Middle Eastern DeLoreans?
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
5. Re: still the stupid clunk
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
6. Fuel Injection Modifications
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. RE: Re: overheating
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Re: overheating
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
9. Re: Middle Eastern DeLoreans?
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
10. Re: Fuel Injection Modifications
From: wingd2@xxxxxxx
11. Re: Middle Eastern DeLoreans?
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: Middle Eastern DeLoreans?
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: overheating
From: theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx
14. Re: Noisy fuel pump (still!)
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
15. Re: still the stupid clunk
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: still the stupid clunk
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
17. bullet proof a/c blower
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
18. Re: Re: performance shocks question
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
19. Re: Fuel Injection Modifications
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Blue exhaust
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
21. Re: On Buying a DeLorean...BE CAREFUL!!!!
From: Dmcjal@xxxxxxx
22. Re: Blue exhaust
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
23. Re: Re: Middle Eastern DeLoreans?
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham@xxxxxxxxx>
24. Re: still the stupid clunk
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
25. Re: Fuel Injection Modifications
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
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Message: 1
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 03:38:07 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: overheating
The fan fail jumper is dangerous. The connectors are only crimped onto
the wires. At the very least solder the wires to the connecters to try
to reduce the resistance and make sure the connecters are snugly
inserted into the block. Once overheated the connecters loose the
"springiness" and never grip the spade connecters tighly enough. If
there is evidence of overheated connecters they should be replaced,
not just bent, as they will be too soft and when heated will loosen
too easy.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, jwit6@xxxx wrote:
> > my electrical compartment - my fan fail jumper was melting and it
> was
> > super-hot. i unplugged it thinking it could start a fire, then
> drove
>
> During an inspection of my relay compartment I noticed that the
spade
> connector to the fan circuit breaker had gotten so hot sometime in
> the past that it actually melted the black plastic surrounding the
> spade connector. Upon inspection I found that the spade connector
fit
> so loosely on the circuit breaker that I surmised the voltage loss
> across this loose connection was responsible for the heat build up.
I
> repaired the connector and all seems well. My general feeling is
that
> there are many loose spade connectors like this in the car. High
> amperage connections would be especially prone to over heating. Best
> to check them all. Some can be tightened up with a pair of needle
> nose pliers. Others should just be replaced.
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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 03:48:55 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Noisy fuel pump (still!)
It is very important when installing the fuel pump it is not turned as
you will kink the pick-up hose, the oem or the replacement. The spring
is good to keep a soft hose from collapsing under vacuum but it will
also tend to keep you from linking the hose. There is no downside to
installing a spring, it is a cheap solution. Just don't damage the
hose when installing the spring. Trim the ends of the spring and bend
so the ends of the spring are inside the coils. I don't think the
problem is so much temperature related as it is more sensitive to fuel
level being worse as the level drops. A real simple way to tell is to
fill the tank. It also would tend to muffle the sounds as the pump
would be inside the fuel. The replacement hoses are stiffer but can
still be kinked if you aren't careful.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Walter" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> I replaced my fuel suction hose with a new reproduction one. I
expected
> that this would solve all of my noisy fuel pump problems, but
instead it is
> now worse.
>
> The theory is that the original fuel suction hose is soft and
becomes even
> softer when hot even to the point of collapsing and restricting the
flow of
> fuel. The resulting restriction causes cavitation within the pump,
and
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Message: 3
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 04:12:08 EST
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: On Buying a DeLorean...BE CAREFUL!!!!
In a message dated 10/27/01 4:04:52 PM Central Daylight Time,
RJRavalli@xxxxxxx writes:
>
>
> << So the rule of $20,000 needs further analysis and a new figure (much
> Higher) will likely surpass the "old rule of thumb.">>
>
> You're right, the "new figure" *should* be much higher, simply because no
> one ever really stops putting money into a car to keep it maintained and
> repaired! To me this whole "rule of $20,000" thing sounds a bit
> ridiclous. Even if you buy a $17,000 DeLorean, if you keep the car long
> enough you are obviously going to end up putting more than $3,000 into the
> car for repairs. To me this whole rule is a little silly and not very
>
Well, here's the thing.
it's supposed to start out with a decent, running, average condition car.
your total pay plus the total amount it will take to make sure everything is
properly upgraded and in good order PREVENTIVE MAINTENENCE-WISE, then it
should total up to about $20,000. you won't have a concours car but it
should be able to take you anywhere you want to go within a couple thousand
miles and not be worried about a breakdown. in my opinion, the rule of 20 is
only good for determining if a seller is putting a fair price on the car. if
you really know your stuff, you should be able to total most problems up
roughly in your head upon inspection of the car and then subtract that from
$20K. if what you come up with is in the ballpark of the asking price, then
you have yourself an average buy.
however - things come up. maybe the clutch wasn't bad when you bought it but
a few months later it goes out. well, there's another $1000 incl. labor to
chalk up! also, as average values of DeLoreans increases (as it probably
eventually will), the $20,000 benchmark will have be upped a little as the
years go by (because the purchase price will be increasing globally).
as for myself - i think i have about $20,000 invested in my car right now,
but that's for perfection. i still have some more work - i have to overhaul
my A/C system and my cooling fans and put an upgraded radiator in. also i'm
sending my FI system to Grady for cleaning and calibration. so i think i
will be around $25,000 when i'm done. will i think i got screwed to the tune
of $5,000? probably not! i'll consider it the price you pay for learning
everything you can about your car so that not only can you fix it yourself
but you can help other owners as well.
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 4
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 04:15:46 EST
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Middle Eastern DeLoreans?
In a message dated 10/27/01 3:06:57 PM Central Standard Time,
RJRavalli@xxxxxxx writes:
>
> This may be a weird question, but does anyone know how many, if any,
> DeLoreans exist in some of the Middle Eastern countries on the news
> recently? I know there's probably not many tooling around Pakistan or
> Afghanistan, but do any DeLorean vendors ever get contacted by, say, wealth
> folks in Saudi Arabia, Egypt or Israel? I wonder how hard it would be for
> owners in the Mid-East to maintain a DeLorean.
>
> Just curious (for some strange reason),
>
>
I think in the first issue of 'deloreans' in the article about buying a DMC
restoration car, stephen wynne mentions that they have shipped their 'new'
cars to japan, europe, south america, and saudi arabia. don't quote me on
that though, but i remember they said something about a middle eastern
country getting a D.
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 5
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 04:23:44 EST
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: still the stupid clunk
In a message dated 10/27/01 3:58:50 PM Central Standard Time,
dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx writes:
> 3. Check all rear body to frame bolts. Although maybe I haven't got them
>
a few weeks ago Robert posted to the DML giving a list of where each of the
body bolts are. but here they are again:
2 bolts - in the luggage compartment on either side sticking right up.
6 bolts - three on either side of the backbone hump in the passenger
compartment. one of them is the seatbelt bolt, the other two are under the
carpet in the same manner. wait, maybe there's only 4 bolts inside the
car.... i forget.
2 bolts - that metal brace that goes into the frame thru the fibreglass in
the engine compartment. on either side of the car, look down and you should
see them. they are big and go straight up and down thru a big brace about the
size of the exhaust pipes.
2 bolts - you have to remove the rear fascia to get to these.
2 bolts - ah.... these are hard to describe but they are on either side of
the engine and they face INWARD, going from the outer side of the car towards
the engine. i have never seen nor touched these bolts myself but they're in
there somewhere. hopefully someone else can elaborate. find Robert's post.
there must only be 4 bolts inside because i think there's only 12 bolts total.
sorry it's a little sketchy, but you should now know which ones you've
tightened and which you didn't know exist!
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 07:51:08 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fuel Injection Modifications
Can you post some pictures to the vault?
What was the cost of the components?
Can you use the stock fuel pump?
How about writing a how to article for DMCNEWS, perhaps the Moderators can
add a section in Tech for Modifications.
Scott Mueller
DMCNEWS 002981
DOA 5031
-----Original Message-----
From: jwit6@xxxxxx [mailto:jwit6@xxxxxx]
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2001 9:16 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Re: Airbox performance
If you're looking for free hp, the easiest thing you can do is
replace the Bosch CIS injection with multiport efi. The CIS air flow
meter flap robs over 10% of avail hp. Std Bosch o-ring type injectors
fit the existing CIS injector ports. Use a Simple Digital Systems EM3-
D (sdsefi.com) ECU and run it right off the ign coil. ODD fire V6 is
NOT a problem. You add a map sensor, throttle position potentiometer,
air and engine temp sensors, '81 280 zx pressure regulator, and use
the existing o2 sensor for lambda closed loop. You can keep the fuel
delivery/return lines, stock ignition, idle speed motor,and the
intake track plumbing including the air filter housing which is not
the problem with performance on this engine. You can ditch the fuel
distributor, accumulator (if you want to), pressure regulator, cold
start valve, frequency valve and the lambda ECU.This is a very simple
upgrade to get you close to 150hp estimated. Programming is simple.
I've already done it.
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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To search the archives or view files, log in at
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________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 08:00:58 -0600
From: "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: overheating
Good observation.
It is a good idea to clean and tighten ALL of the electrical connectors,
including the fuses.
It seems that I have been able to repair failed electrical components by
just cleaning and tightening. An eraser or Rubber for you Brits, and some
spray contact cleaner does the trick for me. Don't forget about the ground
wires.
Scott Mueller
DMCNEWS 002981
DOA 5031
-----Original Message-----
From: jwit6@xxxxxx [mailto:jwit6@xxxxxx]
Sent: Saturday, October 27, 2001 12:55 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Re: overheating
> my electrical compartment - my fan fail jumper was melting and it
was
> super-hot. i unplugged it thinking it could start a fire, then
drove
During an inspection of my relay compartment I noticed that the spade
connector to the fan circuit breaker had gotten so hot sometime in
the past that it actually melted the black plastic surrounding the
spade connector. Upon inspection I found that the spade connector fit
so loosely on the circuit breaker that I surmised the voltage loss
across this loose connection was responsible for the heat build up. I
repaired the connector and all seems well. My general feeling is that
there are many loose spade connectors like this in the car. High
amperage connections would be especially prone to over heating. Best
to check them all. Some can be tightened up with a pair of needle
nose pliers. Others should just be replaced.
To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 10:03:00 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: overheating
Jw, Your absolute correct about the connectors, I have been talking about
that for a year. The Fan Fail I build uses extra long connectors to get the
full contact on the female socket. But if they aren't tight, it doesn't
matter how long they are. The current is about 14 amps run per fan and 30
amps spike when the fans come on. Melting and over heating is common.
John hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/
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Message: 9
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 10:27:52 EST
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: Middle Eastern DeLoreans?
The reports of the "Pink Panther" DeLorean and several other cars, including
the "Burgundy Leather" DeLorean now in the UK, all formerly registered in
Kuwait.
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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 11:51:49 EST
From: wingd2@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Fuel Injection Modifications
From: jwit6@xxxxxx [mailto:jwit6@xxxxxx]
Subject: [DML] Re: Airbox performance
If you're looking for free hp, the easiest thing you can do is
replace the Bosch CIS injection with multiport efi..............
> This is a very simple upgrade to get you close to 150hp estimated.
> Programming is simple. I've already done it.
>
Can you please tell me where I can get all these parts for FREE ??? I
must be going to the wrong parts vendors I guess. Extra power is always nice
to have, but my experience is there is always a cost involved.
Photos of your project posted on the DML would be great.
Marty
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 11
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 11:57:34 -0500
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Middle Eastern DeLoreans?
The original DeLorean Motor Company shipped between 50 and 80 DeLoreans to
the Middle East (the exact number is uncertain, though there is some
documentation in the warehouse that talks about Canadian and the Middle
Eastern cars production figures). A supply of spare was also sent as well,
and at what time some were in Kuwait. These were destroyed, I am told, in
the Gulf War. No one seems to have any idea at this time what the VIN's were
on the cars that were sent there, though I seem to recall Chris Parnham
telling me at one time that one or more of the cars had made it's way to the
UK. And the last bit of 'urban myth', supposedly one of the Middle Eastern
DeLoreans was painted pink by the owner...anyone know anything about that?
James
> Message: 15
> Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 14:50:48 EDT
> From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
> Subject: Middle Eastern DeLoreans?
>
> This may be a weird question, but does anyone know how many, if any, DeLoreans
> exist in some of the Middle Eastern countries on the news recently? I know
> there's probably not many tooling around Pakistan or Afghanistan, but do any
> DeLorean vendors ever get contacted by, say, wealth folks in Saudi Arabia,
> Egypt or Israel? I wonder how hard it would be for owners in the Mid-East to
> maintain a DeLorean.
>
> Just curious (for some strange reason),
>
> Richard
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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 17:43:11 -0000
From: "David Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Middle Eastern DeLoreans?
At least one of them was painted red, and then shipped back to the
US. I am aware of a car here in the Chicago area VIN 11782 that was
imported into the US from Saudi Arabia. It had a Abu Dabi Temporary
Tag in the window when purchased here. (I had it translated from
Arabic.) It was purchased from a dealer here about 6 years ago, so
there is no trail other than that.
Dave Swingle
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, James Espey <james@xxxx> wrote:
> The original DeLorean Motor Company shipped between 50 and 80
DeLoreans to
> the Middle East (the exact number is uncertain, though there is some
> documentation in the warehouse that talks about Canadian and the
Middle
> Eastern cars production figures).
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Message: 13
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 18:09:13 -0000
From: theshovel1224@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: overheating
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Scott Mueller" <scott.a.mueller@xxxx> wrote:
> spray contact cleaner does the trick for me. Don't forget about
the ground
> wires.
>
>
> Scott Mueller
> DMCNEWS 002981
> DOA 5031
Definitely clean the 3 main ground connections. I did this a few
weeks ago & the voltmeter reads much higher. Previously at idle,
with the a/c & radio on, my voltmeter would drop to the mark
below 13. Now, with the a/c & radio on at idle, it sits right at 13.
John Yeoman
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Message: 14
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 14:17:46 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Noisy fuel pump (still!)
> Walter,
> What was the fuel level in your tank when the pump was making noise.
The level in the tank was right at half. I had been driving probably two
hours in warm weather. It doesn't get noisy until the fuel gets warm. I
suppose that a kinked or near-kinked hose could aggravate this. I'm
planning on lifting the fuel pump out while it is running & making the
noises so that I can see what is going on. I know this is dangerous to do,
so I'll have someone standing by with a fire extinguisher.
This is with the reproduction fuel suction hose. With the OEM hose, the
pump only got noisy at around 1/4 of a tank after extended driving (such as
a long trip).
When I put the pump back in last time, I was very careful to watch the
orientation of the hose. The problem might be from using a make-shift fuel
pick-up screen. But I don't see how this could be much of a problem. This
one shouldn't restrict any worse than the OEM. It's a NAPA part # STS-36.
It's rectangular in shape and on the long side runs the length of the
baffle. There is a slight chance that having it rest on the bottom of the
baffle might restrict the inlet too much, so I will look into it.
On my way home last night, the speedo quit working, so fixing that is now a
priority. Mine still has the early speedo cable, so I assume this finally
kinked and broke. I hope it didn't take my angle drive out with it!
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 15
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 12:32:11 -0600
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: still the stupid clunk
Thanks, I went and found Robert's original message and printed it out.
Can someone (a non clunker) go check and see how much side-to-side play
there is in the half-axles?
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Message: 16
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 14:57:18 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: still the stupid clunk
> Here's what I've done:
> 1. checked the trailing arm bolts. Tight. Shims are 6 one side, 1 on the
> other. That seems odd, because the parts list at Houston's site lists max
5
> per side. Hmmm.
It is hard to tell from your photo, but it looks like your shims might be a
little thinner than OEM, and this could partly explain why you have so many.
It would also seem that there should always be the same number of shims on
both sides provided that the frame is straight. When I had my wheel
alignment checked by Sears on their new high-tech laser system, they
suggested that I remove one shim from the drivers side. (Currently I have 3
on the drivers side and 4 on the passenger side. I think most DeLoreans
left the factory like this.)
> 3. Check all rear body to frame bolts. Although maybe I haven't got them
> all... anyone have a list?
Remember to check the parts manual. It has a great diagram of this.
> While I was under the car this morning checking all that AGAIN... I
grabbed
> the right axle and slid it side to side. It makes a loud clunk
sound --just
> like the one I hear when turning-- as it travels as far as it can to the
> outside. Is it supposed to do that?
My car does the same thing. I saw somewhere on the DML that there is a ring
that can be screwed in further to tighten this up. I'd like to learn more
before I experiment with it.
> I've pulled the CV boot back and tried to see if it needed extra grease,
but
> I can't tell. I might try to use the grease-gun-needle and squirt some
more
> grease behind it, if anyone thinks that might help.
Since my CV boots are original, I'm worried about them cracking with age
(although they look great.) Every time I get under the car, I hose the CV
boots down with a generous amount of Armor-all.
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 17
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 15:18:36 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: bullet proof a/c blower
I finally had to replace the a/c blower in my D. I wanted to find something
with a larger/faster motor that turned in the proper direction, but couldn't
find one. There is a style of motor that is larger (and I suppose faster)
that fits perfectly, but it spins the wrong direction. I could fix this by
reversing the polarity, but I want to keep everything on the car Negative
Ground. I suppose it would be feasible to rearrange the electricals inside
the motor, but it would be a lot of work. I might try that someday.
For now I put a new PJ Grady motor on there, and it works great. But I
didn't want this new motor to go bad for the same reason that the old one
did. The OEM was noisy ever since I had the car (with 8600 miles on it).
It since got worse (spraying lithium oil in there helped some) and
eventually developed dead spots. I would have to pull the rubber hose
loose, stick my finger in there and give it a spin. The last time I tried
that it ate my finger nail.
Why the OEM blower went bad is because condensate from the a/c seeped into
the motor and rotted everything out. It rusted the bearings and corroded
the brushes. So with the new blower, I sealed all the seams on top with
silicone caulk. It is okay to seal these because the blower is cooled from
air circulating through a vent hole on the top under the squirrel cage where
water can't seep in. On most other cars the a/c blower is either mounted
sideways or upside down, so gravity won't allow water to puddle around the
rear bearing.
Do any of you think this was a good idea? Does water actually puddle on top
of the blower or is this just a general humitity problem that can't be
avoided?
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 16:11:16 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: performance shocks question
For the record, there is another cross-reference for a Monroe shock that is
acceptable for the front of the DeLorean. I bought a pair of Monroe Matic
Plus shocks 32206 sold by NAPA under Part # 94037. These are 31.6cm fully
extended compared to the OEM of 32.6cm. (This is measuring from the center
of the lower pivot bolt mount to the top of the lip goes in the shock
tower.) So this shock is short enough that it will not allow the lower
control arm to travel too far. And being a little shorter, they are
supposed to work better with lowered front springs.
However, this shock still needs some spacers for the pivot bolt mount and
uses a 12mm pivot bolt instead of the OEM 13mm.
I bought new lowering springs from PJ Grady and decided to use these Monroe
shocks on the front. Then Rob mentioned that he had just come out with the
custom nitrogen charged shocks, so I used those instead (not cheap, but is
the best out there). Now I have these new-in-the-box Monroe shocks that I
have been sitting on too long to return to NAPA. Does anyone want to make
me an offer on them? Otherwise they go on eBay.
Walt Tampa, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: <jwit6@xxxxxx>
<snip>
> The Monroe Matic Plus
> # 32150 commonly referred to in parts interchange lists is incorrect.
> Although it will bolt up, the Monroe is too long when fully extended.
<snip>
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Message: 19
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 15:12:55 -0500
From: Bob Brandys <BobB@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fuel Injection Modifications
Marty,
Did you add multiport injection to your D?
I haven't heard about this!!
what system did you use?
Bob Brandys
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Message: 20
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 20:15:05 -0000
From: "Paul Salsbury" <paul.salsbury@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Blue exhaust
Hi all
Just managed to get everything together for the first time since body and frame were separated.
Now my question.....
Background.. When I first got the car it had not been started for approx 2 years and needed a tidy up around the engine and new muffler. The tidy up was done and it started first time........
Now its back together with new muffler, apart from being a lot quieter, it is blowing a fair amount of blue tinted exhaust.
What is causing this?
I do not have a cat on the car, and do need a new oxygen sensor. could that be the easy answer?
Any suggestions welcome
Cheers
Paul
#6463
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 21
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 16:12:28 EST
From: Dmcjal@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: On Buying a DeLorean...BE CAREFUL!!!!
The 20000 was to put the car in reasonable driving condition both
mechanically and appearance. It was not to make it concurs not to maintain
it for life. Every car will require 500-2000 a year for normal maintenance
if it is driven at all. You could not go wrong to put 1000 a year in a
sinking fund.
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Message: 22
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 19:01:05 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Blue exhaust
Paul, I'm not for sure why the color, but without an 02 sensor and a
readjustment of the air flow meter ( CO ), your running to rich.
John Hervey
http://www.specialtauto.com/
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Message: 23
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 22:30:29 -0000
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Middle Eastern DeLoreans?
We in UK have several ex "Middle Eastern" DeLoreans,
Tony, member 137 worked in Kuwait for many years, he writes in our current
magazine about 8 cars being imported into Kuwait, one is his, unpainted vin
11747, now in the UK, in Coventry motor museum. One a "Badly painted" red
one, and one painted metallic purple-dismantled and in boxes...this was in
the mid 80's.
We had an ex Saudi-Arabian car, very early vin, 551, currently for sale,
another ex museum car, black auto, only 10k miles, asking $15k
Yet another is vin 11746, I am told it was for an Arab Sheik, special order,
with a red leather interior,auto, special radio, and pained metallic silver,
it lives in Scotland and is "like new" and has never been used since it was
imported back into the UK some years ago.
Lastly, another Scottish car..no vin..Black Auto, ex Dubai....found dumped
at the side of the road..years ago, bought and slowly subject to total
rebuild in Saudi...bought back to UK and recently sold.
We have seen pictures of two more..can't put my hand on the details, but
both had serious SAND problems...it gets everywhere!
Chris P DOC UK
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Espey" <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, October 28, 2001 4:57 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Middle Eastern DeLoreans?
> The original DeLorean Motor Company shipped between 50 and 80 DeLoreans to
> the Middle East (the exact number is uncertain, though there is some
> documentation in the warehouse that talks about Canadian and the Middle
> Eastern cars production figures). A supply of spare was also sent as well,
> and at what time some were in Kuwait. These were destroyed, I am told, in
> the Gulf War. No one seems to have any idea at this time what the VIN's
were
> on the cars that were sent there, though I seem to recall Chris Parnham
> telling me at one time that one or more of the cars had made it's way to
the
> UK. And the last bit of 'urban myth', supposedly one of the Middle Eastern
> DeLoreans was painted pink by the owner...anyone know anything about that?
>
> James
>
> > Message: 15
> > Date: Sat, 27 Oct 2001 14:50:48 EDT
> > From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
> > Subject: Middle Eastern DeLoreans?
> >
> > This may be a weird question, but does anyone know how many, if any,
DeLoreans
> > exist in some of the Middle Eastern countries on the news recently? I
know
> > there's probably not many tooling around Pakistan or Afghanistan, but do
any
> > DeLorean vendors ever get contacted by, say, wealth folks in Saudi
Arabia,
> > Egypt or Israel? I wonder how hard it would be for owners in the
Mid-East to
> > maintain a DeLorean.
> >
> > Just curious (for some strange reason),
> >
> > Richard
>
>
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> To search the archives or view files, log in at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/dmcnews
>
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>
>
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Message: 24
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 19:06:18 -0600
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: still the stupid clunk
> It is hard to tell from your photo, but it looks like your shims might be
a
> little thinner than OEM, and this could partly explain why you have so
many.
I can go mic them. Anyone else got a micrometer and can measure their
thicknesses?
>
> My car does the same thing. I saw somewhere on the DML that there is a
ring
> that can be screwed in further to tighten this up. I'd like to learn more
> before I experiment with it.
I would like to know more about this too. I'd be willing to experiment with
it. Does anyone have an specs on this?
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Message: 25
Date: Sun, 28 Oct 2001 20:20:55 EST
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: Fuel Injection Modifications
Ok ,
You made your point. Nothing id FREE!
What I should have said was that there is a lot of HP in PRV that you don't
get to enjoy because of the air flow restrictions imposed by the CIS air flow
meter. HP is directly related to the volumetric efficiency of the engine, and
without the air flow meter flap in the way, the engine is a lot more
efficient at moving air.
Jim #6147
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