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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 19 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Project Delorean Site Update
From: jus4sho@xxxxxxx
2. Dry overflow bottle
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Leaving for EuroFest early...
From: tmasterlc@xxxxxxx
4. Re: ProjectMadness website
From: danielpwillis@xxxxxxxxxxx
5. Eurofest
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham@xxxxxxxxx>
6. Craig "FM" Button Problem
From: "John L. Rahn" <john_rahn@xxxxxxx>
7. Cooling System
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
8. Re: Brake lights???
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
9. Re: Brake lights???
From: Michael Pike <iqintermedia@xxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Re: Brake lights???
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
11. Headlights.
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
12. Re: better Eagle 3.0 questions
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
13. Re: Soft alternator?
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
14. Re: Soft alternator?
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
15. Re: Dry overflow bottle
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
16. Re: Dry overflow bottle
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
17. Re: Craig "FM" Button Problem
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. performance gains - the quest contiues anyone got hard numbers
From: jake@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
19. Re: Fitting tires in the car?
From: "Ralf Philipp" <doc.brown@xxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 22:17:46 EDT
From: jus4sho@xxxxxxx
Subject: Project Delorean Site Update
May update on Project Delorean:
The cooling system is going back in and all hoses being replaced with braided
ones. I've posted shots of the restored fan/shroud assembly. The front
suspension is reinstalled and I've begun restoring the driveshafts. I just
received the last parts I needed to install the fuel system from DMC Houston
and also a complete Centerforce Clutch Kit from PJ Grady. So the engine swap
isn't far off! Feel free to check out the site.
Steve
VIN 2650 ("Project Delorean")
http://www.angelfire.com/md2/projectdelorean
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 21:39:41 -0500
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Dry overflow bottle
My overflow bottle is low (dry!).
I obviously MUST add something immediately. Can it just be tap water? Soft
tap water or hard water? Distilled?
Do I need to add special chemicals because of the aluminum engine like the
Northstar engine requires? (so I hear)
I probably should do a flush since the most recent one may have been 97 when
a previous owner had a lot of work done at Houston. So in the mean time...
water?
---------
I read this somewhere:
"most experts agree that the end of the world will come by accident, most
likely. That's where we come in; we're Computer Experts, we make accidents."
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 06:22:17 -0000
From: tmasterlc@xxxxxxx
Subject: Leaving for EuroFest early...
Thanks to everyone for the cool weather warning in Ireland. I just
finished packing the suitcases and will be on the way today (18th),
after visiting Edinburgh, Scotland and London, England first!!!! I'm
sure the weather will be a nice 'relief' from the hot and dry
temperatures we're having in the St. Louis area! (All of you Texans
must be looking forward to it too!)
See y'all there...
Cheryl Wester
MO Lic# BK2-FTR
VIN # 6322
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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 12:27:19 -0000
From: danielpwillis@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: ProjectMadness website
All,
Another quickie,,.,
Just updated the site (again). It's about as updated as it's going to
get (pictures wise) until I get the car back. Lots to write but not
much to photograph!
Enjoy anyway...
Dan Willis,
UK - Member 101
Vin#5641 - Maddie
Oct. '81
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, danielpwillis@xxxx wrote:
> All,
>
> Just a quick note...
>
> My website is now up and running (actually has been for a couple of
> weeks) and I am starting to update it more regularly.
>
> For those unfamiliar with myself and "maddie"... take a look!
>
> www.projectmadness.com
>
> Dan Willis
> UK - Member 101
> Vin#5641 - Maddie
> Oct. '81
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 13:34:17 +0100
From: "Chris Parnham" <chrisparnham@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Eurofest
Eurofest attendee's, I need some good quality original photo's for my new book. ( DeLorean the Stainless Steel Legacy)
I particularly need photo's of "scrap" ( parts cars) , abandoned one's, unusual ones, i.e. brake down truck D's etc. also groups of D's or single photo's in very nice situations.
All suppliers of photo's used in my book, will eventually receive a free signed copy.
Please bring them along to Eurofest.
Chris Parnham Hon. Sec. DOC UK
BTW..I will be bringing along large quantities of door seal rubbers for the product fair.........CHEAP!!!
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 13:23:07 -0000
From: "John L. Rahn" <john_rahn@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Craig "FM" Button Problem
Hi...I just bought a DeLorean, Vin#06136. The "FM" Button does not
function (when you push it, the radio stays in the "AM" mode. I
ordered the Craig Service Manual hoping there may be a hint there.
Any suggestions to a fix will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
JR
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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 15:08:54 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Cooling System
The night before last I finally got around to installing all the new
upgrades for my car. One item was the Overheat Protector by DMC Joe @
DeLorean Services. Installation was beyond simple, and took less then
10 minutes. Tools needed were a couple of rachets, a screwdriver, and
some pruning shears. With a cold engine block, the coolant loss/mess
was very minimal. All I had to do then was top off the coolant
overflow bottle, and run the engine! The unit started working right
away. Normally without bleeding the system, the temp will rise
quicker then normal. But it took quite a bit longer this time.
The DeLorean cooling system itself does a good job of cooling the
engine. There only problem with the system is air getting trapped
inside. If too much air becomes trapped in the top of the water pump
housing (the highest point in the system), it looses suction. Once
suction is gone, water stops pumping, and you know the rest. My
mechanic says that it can take quite a while to bleed all of the air
out of the system on the DeLorean. And from what I've seen, he's
right.
Bleeding the system is not impossible or very difficult at all. But
it is a chore. When bleeding off the system, you are not just
bleeding air, but coolant as well. If you bleed too much at a time
out, the level in the surge tank will drop low enough that air will
be sucked back into the system. You also can't leave the pressure cap
off the tank because once the engine reaches it's specific temp, the
thermostat will open up. I tried bleeding the system back into the
overflow tank to avoid coolant loss. This resulted in coolant exiting
the overflow bottle with all the sutlety and heat of a small volcano.
I didn't get burned, but I did waste a quite a bit of fresh
antifreeze. So to bleed the system properly I've always bled off a
little coolant at a time into a bucket, wait 'till the engine cools,
refill over flow bottle, start over...
That's where the self-bleeding kit comes in. Once installed, there
should be no problem with bleeding the system ever again. The system
works fine in as doing it's job. It just needs that extra step taken.
But on a different subject, I have no idea as to why DMC never used
the same cooling system from the Alpine on the DeLorean. It looks
like the system can bleed itself. But with the Overheat Protector in
place, researching the changeover isn't even warranted...
-Robert
vin 6585
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 01:27:48 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Brake lights???
In a message dated 5/17/01 9:02:55 PM Central Daylight Time,
RJRavalli@xxxxxxx writes:
> I guess I have the right kind of bulbs (the 1156 are the right ones)
> but I think I have bad wires on the bulb board. When you move it
> around the lights go off and on...now I've noticed this happening
> on other old cars' taillights when you take them apart, but
> these seem stubborn and don't want to all stay on when I put
> the light fixture back on. Do I need to just buy a new board, and
> if so how hard is installing a new board/wires? Do I need to
> take the fascia off to do this? (I hope not!)
>
> Thanks again for the help,
>
>
Richard,
you should get the new light circuit boards from PJ Grady, the improved gold
plated ones. they are simple to install - remove the rear lenses (just take
out the screws) and unhook the OEM lights from the harness and put the new
circuit board on. this is a very common problem - let's face it, the OEM
light fixtures are not that great. the new ones Grady and DMCJoe sell are
greatly improved!!!!!
Andy
Soma576@xxxxxxx
1982 DeLorean DMC-12 VIN#11596
Fargo, ND 58102
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 9
Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 00:14:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: Michael Pike <iqintermedia@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Brake lights???
Hey guy,
Your bulb is probably fine, if you are using the stock
delorean circuit board in the lights... they are known
to go bad all the time..
PJ Grady sells replacement boards that work nicely...
test the bulb on a standard battery terminal or
something, if it works, its your circuit board.
Mike
--- RJRavalli@xxxxxxx wrote:
> Can I get replacement brake lights for the DeLorean
> at any parts
> supply store? I'm having trouble with one of my
> brake lights on
> the passangers side (the light right next to the
> reverse light)
> and I tried to find a replacement bulb today but was
> unable to.
> It is a "Tungsram" (?) 1057 12volt bulb...do you
> have to order
> replacement LIGHT BULBS from a DeLorean supplier???
>
> Any help would be appreciated...I tried a 1156 12v
> bulb and it
> didn't work. Is there anything else I can try?
>
> Richard
>
>
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting
> policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating
> team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices
http://auctions.yahoo.com/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 10
Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 04:46:34 -0400
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Brake lights???
Richard,
It sounds like you have the typical tail light board problem that all
DeLoreans eventually develop. This topic has been beaten to death in the
archives, so probably nobody has wanted to explain it again. If jiggling
the socket on the board makes the lights flicker, then you have bad
electrical connections between the socket and the board. Here are your
options:
1) Buy new Zilla boards from a D vendor. (the best solution albeit the most
expensive)
2) Buy some screws & nuts from Radio Shack, put them through the rivet holes
and tighten them down as tight as you can. (cheapest and easiest, but maybe
not the best)
3) Clean the rivets and surrounding areas as best you can. Thread some bare
copper wire through them and solder them down with some good soldering flux.
(makes a more solid connection than the screws & nuts, but not as elegant as
new Zilla boards.)
All three methods work good. Which one you choose depends on your wallet,
your technical savvy, and your patience.
Installing a new board or replacing your old board is very simple. The
wires attach through an "edge card" connector. The fiberglass tail light
boards snap onto the plastic tail light housing by pushing them on and then
sliding it to one side. Perhaps you overlooked that the board needs to
slide to one side in order to lock in place. There are several tabs along
the way that all need to line up properly for the 'snap effect' to work
right. Once you see how it works, you might feel foolish for asking.
To learn more, read the archives. Maybe this has been written up on DMCTech
site already.
Walt Tampa, FL
-----Original Message-----
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx <RJRavalli@xxxxxxx>
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Date: Thursday, May 17, 2001 10:00 PM
Subject: Re: Re: [DML] Brake lights???
>I guess I have the right kind of bulbs (the 1156 are the right ones)
>but I think I have bad wires on the bulb board. When you move it
>around the lights go off and on...now I've noticed this happening
>on other old cars' taillights when you take them apart, but
>these seem stubborn and don't want to all stay on when I put
>the light fixture back on. Do I need to just buy a new board, and
>if so how hard is installing a new board/wires? Do I need to
>take the fascia off to do this? (I hope not!)
>
>Thanks again for the help,
>
>Richard
>
>
>
>Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
>www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 15:15:40 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Headlights.
If you're looking to increase the brightness of your headlights, try
a few things first. Clean the front ground connections for the
headlights. And also buy a brand new set of light bulbs. Even with
just some new bulbs you'll probably see a great increase in light
output. I use the Cool Blue bulbs by Sylvania. The list they put out
isn't blue, much much whiter. I've found that it sharpens up colors
of items on the road. But even if you only put in regular bulbs in,
you should see a differance. After all, you're probably burning lamps
with 20 year old technology...
-Robert
vin 6585
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Message: 12
Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 15:46:52 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: better Eagle 3.0 questions
It's hard to say. What exactly had happend to the engine block that
has rendered it as "bad"?
I too have looked into the 3.0 liter conversion. Myself, I don't care
for electronic fuel injection. I perfer the CIS mechanical on the
DeLorean. Much easier to maintain and tune. While others may have
more info on this than I do, I have read on the internet that the
Eagle Premier's have known issues with their ignition ECU's. Another
reason I'm not fond of EFI or excess electronics. Personally, I am
not concerned with even or odd-firing of the engine. I would rather
just keep the DeLorean block, pan, crank, and heads using only the
Eagle pistons and sleeves. Which when you think about it DMC
Houston's upgrade makes a whole lot more sense. Plus for resale
purposes, you'd have a common upgrade performed by a well known
service center. Another problem with the Eagle fuel injection system
is parts and support. Eagle parts I've been told are niether cheap
nor easy to come by. If something happens with the DeLorean, you have
a variety of service centers to contact for help. If one of the Eagle
components acts up, you may not have very many places to turn...
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, jake@xxxx wrote:
> well i did what i should have done first and scoured the archives
for
> hours to find out some things, although i am still not entirely
clear
> on all the steps, i'm hoping one of the experienced experts can
make
> a list of sorts of the steps involved...
<SNIP>
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Message: 13
Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 22:57:45 EDT
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Soft alternator?
Walt, And others, we have the capability of reaching almost 180 amps, but
what's the point. Charge up the battery, put on the De Lorean 150 and forget
it. Almost any alternator /regulator will drop with things turned on and low
RPM. But, just touch the gas or at about 1100 rpm and it should be up again.
Couple the alternator with The Fan Fix. and mine normally doesn't go below
13 volts mark unless everything is turned on. I also add the cool blue lights
and they draw more current, so with all on and the alternator heated up. It
will dip below 13 volt just a tad. As far as the small pully, I don't know
where you will find them. Were having 250 more made now overseas.
John Hervey
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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 08:26:30 -0400
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Soft alternator?
Be aware that the DeLorean dash mounted voltage meter usually reads; on average, about 1 volt low. Also, Jim Reeve's response to you is right on track. The "clearish plasticy stuff" is an indication of overheating which could result in output voltage reduction.
You should also clean all three frame ground connections. If your voltage does not increase after cleaning and tightening the grounds you should have your alternator "load tested" at an automotive electrical test facility.
The Fanzilla http://store.yahoo.com/dsvstore/fanzilla1.html and http://www.pjgrady.com/lgspec.asp?id=23 is a definite solution to the cooling fan surge problem.
DMC Joe
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <deloreanservices.com>
DMC.tv is in your future.....
----- Original Message -----
From: K Creason
Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2001 8:04 PM
Subject: [DML] Soft alternator?
I've been watching my alternator... lately it's been dropping below the 13v when at idle and AC is on. It's the 90 amp Motorola model. It's leaked some clearish plasticy stuff... melted insulation or something?
I leave everything else that I can off and just use windows for a breeze when I can. Of course, when I need the AC is when I'm at the stop light idling and don't have a breeze, and that's when the alterntor performs the worst.
At first, it was just the discrepency between the gauge and the volts measured on the alternator. I even replaced the fuses for dash services and AC stuff, hoping it was poor contacts. I tightened the belts last night and did many different tests with it idling in the drive way, out of gear.
The end result is that with just AC and fan on 3 or 4 it drops to about 12.3v, and with radio and lights on it barely hits 12, and sometimes 11.9v. That's measured right on the alternator with my trusty digital multimeter.
So, I need a new alternator for full enjoyment and peace of mind, right?
Will this also help lessen the drag the AC system places on the engine performance?
I know there is the fanzilla that is to help with the performance... but what exactly does it do for all that money? Alternatives? (I'd like to save some money for suspension work this summer)?
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 15
Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 15:50:30 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Dry overflow bottle
No, NEVER use tap water! Just pick up some pure distilled water from
the grocery store. Use only distilled, nothing else. For antifreeze,
use an ethyline glycol base coolant like Prestone (green or orange).
Mix both up into a 50/50 mixture.
-Robert
vin 6585
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxx> wrote:
> My overflow bottle is low (dry!).
> I obviously MUST add something immediately. Can it just be tap
water? Soft
> tap water or hard water? Distilled?
> Do I need to add special chemicals because of the aluminum engine
like the
> Northstar engine requires? (so I hear)...
<SNIP>
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 16
Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 17:00:55 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Dry overflow bottle
All you need is a mixture of 50/50 anti-freeze and water. The water
should be "soft" or if not then distilled. The anti-freeze should be a
national brand and say safe for aluminum. Refer to a following post
#17299 for an explanation of bleeding the cooling system of air. Fill
the header bottle to the full-hot mark. If you need to keep adding
coolant it means there is a leak which is BAD NEWS. The cooling system
must be kept leak-free or you will overheat the motor with disasterous
consequences!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
-- In dmcnews@xxxx, "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxx> wrote:
> My overflow bottle is low (dry!).
> I obviously MUST add something immediately. Can it just be tap
water? Soft
> tap water or hard water? Distilled?
> Do I need to add special chemicals because of the aluminum engine
like the
> Northstar engine requires? (so I hear)
>
> I probably should do a flush since the most recent one may have been
97 when
> a previous owner had a lot of work done at Houston. So in the mean
time...
> water?
>
> ---------
> I read this somewhere:
> "most experts agree that the end of the world will come by accident,
most
> likely. That's where we come in; we're Computer Experts, we make
accidents."
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 15:13:42 -0400
From: "Joseph Molino" <foxmul@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Craig "FM" Button Problem
if you don't get it fixed. I will sell you mine pretty cheap. I don't care
about keeping mine original when it comes to Audio.
Joseph
vin 2850
----- Original Message -----
From: "John L. Rahn" <john_rahn@xxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, May 18, 2001 9:23 AM
Subject: [DML] Craig "FM" Button Problem
> Hi...I just bought a DeLorean, Vin#06136. The "FM" Button does not
> function (when you push it, the radio stays in the "AM" mode. I
> ordered the Craig Service Manual hoping there may be a hint there.
> Any suggestions to a fix will be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks,
>
> JR
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Fri, 18 May 2001 21:48:19 -0000
From: jake@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: performance gains - the quest contiues anyone got hard numbers
[MODERATOR'S NOTE: Check out Bob Brandys' excellent technical report on dyno testing of performance enhanced engine configurations in his report available in the DMCNews technical library at http://www.dmcnews.com/Resource/horsepower.html ]
i've been digging thru the archives, and i see a few people with
turbo or twin turbo cars. but no one states the increase in
horsepower.
anyone got hard numbers here?
jake
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Message: 19
Date: Thu, 17 May 2001 00:28:02 +0200
From: "Ralf Philipp" <doc.brown@xxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Fitting tires in the car?
Where is the problem?
two tires on the passenger seat.
one tire behind the passenger seat.
one (front) tire in the trunk (take out the spare tire).
Ralf.
VIN10284
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________________________________________________________________________
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