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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 22 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. RE: PLANING FOR A DELOREAN
From: "doctor who" <ohwrd@xxxxxxxxxxx>
2. De Loreana -- Another Magazine Article
From: Aldo Buono <dmc1440@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: the ULTIMATE compliment on my D
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
4. Re: PLANING FOR A DELOREAN
From: "Patrick Cowan" <LilRedCivic@xxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: PLANING FOR A DELOREAN
From: Jeff Angwin <jeff@xxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: frequency valve again
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: "New Owner Documentation"
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
8. Re: Good morning list!
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
9. RE: "New Owner Documentation"
From: "Wright, Ryan (LW)" <Ryan.Wright@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: "New Owner Documentation"
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
11. Leaking trans fluid...
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
12. RE: HELP!!!!!!!!!
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
13. To all that know better about electricity and how to treat a first time poster...
From: "sk1pper" <sk1pper@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. New seeking answers
From: "Payne" <bpayne@xxxxxxxxxx>
15. Re: Good morning list!
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: "New Owner Documentation"
From: "B Benson" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. RE: new manual
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Correct Tire Pressure in BAR?
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway@xxxxxxxxxxx>
19. DMC for Sale Chicago Reduced for quicksale
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
20. Re: Leaking trans fluid...
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
21. Re: Fuel Pump Check Valve.
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
22. Re: To all that know better about electricity and how to treat a first time poster...
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
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Message: 1
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 21:56:04
From: "doctor who" <ohwrd@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: PLANING FOR A DELOREAN
If you wanna wait six months for the price to go down you can get a car
stereo unit that will play the new compressed MP3 format. allowing you to
put over 100 hours of music onto a single cd! Well worth the money unless
you really want to add a disk changer to your car.
Most units will play CD-R. The deal w/CD-RW is their is no standard amongst
manufacturers so the compression technology is typically not compatible with
anything except the device that created it. Besides you dont want to put
music on CD-RW, CD-R's are cheaper.
Of course their is an excpetion. If you get the stereo head that has the DVD
player on it and LCD screen. That particular unit will not play CD-R's. Just
like most DVD players.
cheers,
dr c.
Hey everybody,
I may soon be getting a DeLorean! HOPEFULLY. I need some help. First
does anybody know of a car CD player that plays burned CD's (CD R's and
RW's). Next I would jus like to have some tips on like cosmetics for the
outside of the car. Some things like the DMC hubcaps from DMC in Houston or
others.
I would really appreciate help with the CD player question.
THANKS \
Ali
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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 17:20:50 -0500
From: Aldo Buono <dmc1440@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: De Loreana -- Another Magazine Article
Michael Lamm has penned another magazine article on both John Delorean and
the De Lorean automobile. A fairly accurate and positive article, it
appears in the April 10, 2001, issue of AMI Auto World Weekly, pages 82 and
83.
It includes six pictures including the Goodyear Tire ad with John leaning on
a production model. The article gives a highlighted biography of John's
career in the automotive industry as well as a summary of the production
history of the car.
He even acknowledges us: "The DeLorean Nameplate enjoys a small but
enthusiastic following."
I am looking forward to seeing many of you in Gainesville, Georgia, in the
fall for Run 10, hosted by the Southeast De Lorean Owners Club.
--
Aldo Buono, Past President, De Lorean Midatlantic, Philadelphia,
Pennsylvania
dmc1440 at earthlink.net/ VIN 1440 since 1984
eFax and eVoice Mail: 503-212-5802
Visit: http://clubs.hemmings.com/deloreanmidatlantic/
Eastern Regional Run 11, Gainesville, Georgia, October, 2001.
Eastern Regional Run 12, Memphis, Tennessee, June 13-16, 2002.
"If you are going to build a time machine into a car,
why not do it with some style!"
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 18:07:52 EST
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: the ULTIMATE compliment on my D
Maybe Jobs owns a DeLorean and was just happy to see another
one on the road? Jobs isn't necessairly a person who is going to
be envious of alot of people, you know. :)
Just a thought,
Richard
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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 18:22:33 -0500
From: "Patrick Cowan" <LilRedCivic@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: PLANING FOR A DELOREAN
your CD player specs MUST specify CDRW. They will not play in just anything
Patrick Cowan
LilRedCivic@xxxxxxxxxx
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Message: 5
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 16:21:39 -0800
From: Jeff Angwin <jeff@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: PLANING FOR A DELOREAN
[ moderators note: I think everyone now knows that Aiwa has a unit that will play cd-rw disks so I'll stop posting anymore notes regarding this ]
I just had Delorean Motor Center install the Aiwa CDC-MP3 in my D, and it
rocks!
There is also a companion 6 disc CD changer (ADC-M65 : $180) that I have
installed in the trunk. One word of warning, though... The changer will read
CD-RW discs, but will NOT read MP3's. To use MP3's (CD-R or CD-RW) you must
use the slot on the dash mounted unit. You also get a steering wheel mounted
remote control unit that you can use to control the CD / radio with your
right thumb.
I purchased the dash unit and the changer from Crutchfield. I had to wait a
few months, but it was well worth it!
Jeff Angwin
VIN 3034
bduncan@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> The Aiwa CDC-MP3 plays CD-R's AND CD-RW's AND instead
> of burning the CD to be read in a stereo, you can just burn
> MP3 files to it and it will read them off! Its about $300
> but very neat. When i get my car back from PJ Grady (going
> on 4 months... :( ) i want to put this in.
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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 19:35:53 -0500
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: frequency valve again
Hi Jim,
my frequency valve only buzzes a few seconds with the key on and not
starting the engine, so I would say that's normal.
It sounds to me like you have dirt in your fuel distributor that's making
your car run rich. Try adjusting the CO adjusting screw and get the fuel
mixture leaned out. Then once the engine is in running order you can
diagnose what's wrong. If you keep running the engine in the rich mode you
will fill the muffler with carbon and also coat the oxygen sensor with
carbon making it unable to read the air fuel mixture coming thru it. Not to
mention what all that gas is doing to your cylinder walls.
Dave Sontos
vin 02573
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Strickland" <ihaveanaccount@xxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 11:47 AM
Subject: [DML] frequency valve again
> I recently started working on my car again, and got some more strange
> running results.. Before, when the key was turned to the 'on' position,
the
> frequency valve would buzz and buzz and not stop. NOW, it's buzzing for
> about a second, and stopping. What is it supposed to do? If it's
supposed
> to keep buzzing, does anyone guess why mine is not?
>
> I've been fighting with another problem- running rich. I just recently
> found that 4 of my vaccuum lines were hooked up incorrectly- the fuel
> pressure regulator was hooked (at the T) to the manifold, the hose the
> regulator should be hooked to was connected to the distributor's spark
> advance, and the other two hoses coming out from under the air intake were
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Message: 7
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 19:42:20 EST
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: "New Owner Documentation"
Dear Ryan,
Your braggadocio about the Fiero is well noted. I know that every web
page has a wealth of knowledge on fixing cars.
Have you read the Rolls Royce owners page? There are ton's of do's and
don'ts for every Rolls Royce and Bentley car. And after driving some and
tinkering with a few, there are problems with every car, particularly the
Silver Wraith.
I stated this in my message. No car was made without fault.
Furthermore, if you take a minute to read my message, I am offering an
alternative solution to the idea. This is what you wrote as an "exchange of
ideas and thoughts..." seems like you are no very open to any others
"exchange of ideas"
Mike
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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 19:51:18 EST
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: Good morning list!
Les,
It is a shame that someone out there took some cheap shots your idea.
Heaven forbid that someone have a solution to a problem that doesn't exist.
Please re read my message.
I offer an alternative solution to your web page, that would help every DMC
owner out there.
Did I say, your idea was horrible?
As a matter of fact, Wayne the parts manual guy has the same idea.
You say that your older than most of us, so calm down, relax...
Mike
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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 16:57:52 -0800
From: "Wright, Ryan (LW)" <Ryan.Wright@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: "New Owner Documentation"
Mike,
I suppose I don't understand this message. I didn't use the words
"exchange", "ideas", or "thoughts" anywhere in my post. I'm very much open
to the exchange of ideas from other list members. I simply wanted to make my
point that I believe we really need this "New Owner Documentation/List of
problems" regardless of any reputation issues. :)
Take care,
- Ryan Wright, MCP (ryan.wright@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx)
- Web Operations Analyst
- Lamb-Weston, Inc.
-----Original Message-----
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx [mailto:senatorpack@xxxxxx]
Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2001 4:42 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] "New Owner Documentation"
Furthermore, if you take a minute to read my message, I am offering an
alternative solution to the idea. This is what you wrote as an "exchange of
ideas and thoughts..." seems like you are no very open to any others
"exchange of ideas"
Mike
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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 19:58:25 EST
From: senatorpack@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: "New Owner Documentation"
The suggestion of a password or controlled entry is a little paranoid
don't you think? So who's paranoid?
If you reread my message, I offer an alternative solution to the "problem
web page." My suggestion is backed up by Wayne the manual guy in New Jersey,
as he suggests the same.
INSTEAD of making a web page devoted to problems, make a page about what
parts have been superseded by updated parts that the vendors supply. The
first part that I think about is the window motors. Secondly the clutch.
It is how we say it, not what we say.
<< every model-specific car club out there distrubutes
monthly news letters and in them, often feature "tech tips". >>
The Rolls Royce and Bentley owners association has tech tips, I guess the
Yugo web list has everything under the sun there too.
The DeLorean Owners Association includes a Technical seminar at every
DeLorean convention. In addition, the DeLorean World publishes technical
advice, factory service bulletin's and an invitation for anyone to write a
technical article. This is a great service.
As I said, your concept has good intentions, however you are not looking
at the big picture.
Mike Pack
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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 19:58:05 EST
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
Subject: Leaking trans fluid...
I've been slowly leaking trans fluid for awhile (it comes out slowly usually
after I drive the car) but now it seems to be getting a little worse (maybe
because I'm driving it more often?) I'm not sure where it is coming from
though...could it be a fluid pan or something else? Could someone please
help with estimating cost of fixing it?
Thank you for any help,
Richard
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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 20:46:09 -0500
From: "Kevin Abato" <delorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: HELP!!!!!!!!!
Hi everyone....just dropping in for an update on my problem.
First off.....BIG THANKS to Dave Swingle and Rob Grady! Their help was
awesome! (other people e-mailed me also, but by this time I had the info
from Rob and Dave). THANKS GUYS!
I checked the car out tonight (did not drive it today) and the coolant in
the tank was about 1 3/4" above the cold fill line. I bleed the system
after I warmed the car, and a generous amount of air bubbles came out of the
system. I took quite a bit of coolant out of the system (still plenty left
in the tank...when it was warm, it was at the cold fill line) and I am
waiting for it to cool down a bit, and I will add coolant back in.
End result: There was some air in the system, and maybe a little too much
coolant.
Question to all of you: The tank is mounted in a way that it sits on a
slight angle. This makes the fill lines not "level" are the markings made
with this in mind, or should I fill it slightly higher?
-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Abato [mailto:delorean@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2001 7:57 PM
To: Dmcnewsyahoo (E-mail)
Subject: [DML] HELP!!!!!!!!!
I called rob grady on this one earlier tonight, but I was a little
overwhelmed (and cold) so I don't think I gave him the best info (sorry Rob!
I will call you again tomorrow) In the mean time...if anyone else can
help...or offer ideas...
I was driving home (1 hour commute) and the last 5 minutes, I noticed that
if I took a sharp (or somewhat sharp) right turn, I could hear a rubbing
sound (like a fan blade scraping something, or the a tire rubbing on the
body) It came from the front right side of the car (my first thought was
the tire) but I just drove again, and had the same thing, but noticed I had
the heater on with the blower set to "1". If I turned it off while turning
or set it higher, the rubbing sound went away. Is the blower fan for the
heat located in the front right side of the car? Is this what I am hearing?
When I shut it off, it slowly went away, when I cranked it to "2" or "3" it
went away and I could hear the fan with its normal sound.
More importantly.....The car also started to spew coolant when I first got
home. The temp gauge never went into the red (or over 220) from what I
know. (I panicked and turned the car off and manually rolled it out of my
garage to avoid a mess) Over all I lost about 10oz of coolant. I called
Rob Grady, and he told me that I have to bleed the system. I am not at all
mechanically inclined, so he told me to have someone help me. Now that I
drove it again, I checked the coolant expansion tank (when cold) and it was
3/4 filled. Do I need to add coolant? Do I need to still bleed it? I ran
it for 20 minutes and the temp stayed fine (not sure if the fans came on or
not).
I was panicking at first thinking a hose burst, or something worse, but I
did finally realized that the coolant came from the hole on the top where
the cap is. (again...sorry Rob! I did not know that hose was SUPPOSED to
do that. And I did not realized that was where the coolant came from)
Please respond tonight if you can...so I get a little piece of mind before
I go to bed. I have had the car blues...new DMC cost me mega bucks, then
the head gasket blew on my Intrepid! I am going SOOOO broke! :)
Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
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To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
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________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 20:06:53 -0600
From: "sk1pper" <sk1pper@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: To all that know better about electricity and how to treat a first time poster...
First I'd like to say to all that have slammed me over the alternator post I gave, know what you are saying and to whom you are saying it before you open your mouth as it were. I will give you credit that you probably know more about Deloreans than I, but you probably do not know more about electricity or low voltage systems.
Second. As a new member of this board, it is not very comforting to see such hostility toward a post. If a post is wrong, incorrect, or misleading then kindly respond to the message. The slamming is not indicative of a friendly chat room. I will continue to read the messages posted, but this will more than likely be my last post.
Now, lets clear the air here and state the facts and allow me to respond to your comments.
"Secondly.... after starting the car and backing it out
for a nice 200 mile drive (now that i can see how much
gas i have), i happened to glance over at my battery
meter.. it was almost to 0.... like the alternator
wasnt working..... it was fine before... i am
wondering if maybe i screwed something up putting the
tankzilla in???? When the needle goes down to the
bottom like that, does it mean the battery, or, worse,
i need to get an alternator???? I am going to
disconnect the tanzilla tommorow and see if that
helps.. if it does maybe its grounding somewhere, if
not... i guess i'll buy the battery and if that doesnt
work, head for the alternator..."
The problem, as I understood it was that the battery meter was not reading any voltage. Four things come to mind at this point.
a.. One, the installation of the Tankzilla was not performed correctly.
b.. Two, the battery has a damaged cell(s) causing a direct short.
c.. Three, the alternator is not producing a charge and the car is running off the battery only.
d.. Four, the battery meter is damaged or came unhooked.
Issue one: the Tankzilla is not installed correctly. As I personally have not dealt with this product, I will not venture a guess. Call for technical assistance.
Issue two: the battery has a damaged cell(s) causing a direct short. Direct shorts in 12VDC batteries are evident by two indicators.
1.. One is the physical warping or marking of the casing. When a battery cell breaks down, the positively charged particles are not held separate from the negatively charged electrons by the internal plates. This causes the two oppositely charged particles to come in contact with each other. At this point, the effect on the battery will become evident in one of two ways. First, if there is sufficient contact between these two polarities, the battery will "short out" if the transfer is a slow and steady one. Or second, if the transfer is rapid, the chemical reaction will generate heat and warp the battery casing leaving a light black or charcoal ring around the outside in the location of the breakdown, or the chemical reaction will become too much for the housing to withstand, causing it to fail and leak. This is known as The First and Second Laws of Thermodynamics.
There are several indicators to this action:
a.. Smell. Since all chemical reaction must either require heat or produce heat, and there is no introduction of an external heat source to the transfer, then heat must be generated. This is known as an exothermic reaction. The result of this exothermic reaction will be the excitement of the carcinogenic molecules produced by this reaction. This in turn will excite the neighboring molecules. This would be the transfer of the carcinogenic molecules and thus a burnt or burning smell would be evident.
b.. Electrical Dissipation. On the other hand, if the above mentioned transfer was not sufficient enough, Ohm's Law would. Electricity must also abide by scientific law. Since energy cannot be created nor destroyed, it must be transferred or converted. The dissipation of the voltage/amperage will result of insufficient voltage or amperage in the form of an electrical short. The signs of this transfer will be manifested by dimming lights, stalls, or dead batteries.
Issue three: the alternator is not producing a charge and the car is running off the battery only. If the alternator was not producing the correct voltage/amperage the signs would be different than a damaged battery. An alternator produces a charge close to the manufactures specification. However, Ohm's Law states that voltage and amperage is inversely proportional to each other. In other words, as the voltage increases, the amperage decreases, and as the voltage decreases, the amperage increases.
"NO! NEVER DISCONNECT THE BATTERY WITH THE CAR RUNNING TO TEST THE
ALTERNATOR! That battery acts as a real big voltage regulator.
Without it connected, the alternator can produce power spikes that can
and WILL blow out electronic equipment. (Just like how jump-starting
can shorten the life of the auto trans computer govenor). This
process may have been alright on real old cars that contained no
electronics, but any modern car (especially the D) contains very
fragile electronics that will be damaged if you conduct this
procedure. This has been brought up before, Les, perhaps this is
somthing for your newbie startup guide."
Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960
"What you really mean is a sure way to blow the alternater and all of
the sensitive electrical components! I know of NO procedure that
advocates disconnecting the alternater while the motor is running! Put
a voltmeter on the battery, read the voltage, start the motor and read
again after about 1 minute. It should read at least .5 volts higher. A
better test is to use an alternater tester which measures ripple so as
to determine if any diodes are shot and full load output.
Disconnecting the alternater while the motor is running will send a
surge of over 100 volts through the system. If it doesn't cause
outright damage immediatly you will see things happen later like bulbs
blowing and computers dying. (Take note if automatic!)
* HINT* A quick and dirty way to see if the alternater is charging
is to take something magnetic (like a pocket knife) and hold it close
the the bearing on the end of the rotor away from the pulley. You will
feel a strong magnetic attraction if the alternater is charging the
battery. This is not a quantitative test, just a go-no go way to see
if the alternater is working at all. You could also use a test light.
It should be a little brighter when the motor is running then when it
is off. There is no substitute for good test equipment and the
knowledge to use it."
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
DON'T DO THAT!!!!! THAT IS WRONG!!!!!
Do not remove the battery leads with engine running. You can do a lot of
damage. A battery serves two purposes: 1) as a voltage regulator and 2) a
load for the alternator. Without the battery the alternator (regulator
inside it to be exact) will sense that there is no voltage from the battery,
meaning the battery is dead or there is a BIG load on the system. So it will
pump ALL it can from the alternator with nowhere to go (because there is no
load - battery). Also without the battery the regulator cannot adjust the
votage correctly. Because of that you can get 68 volts in the system... even
more. A healthy alternator is actually able to put about 80 volts out!!
Imagine what that will do to all the electronics in your car!! Radio, lambda
ECU, idle speed ECU and if your car happens to be automatic you'll have to
replace the transmission governor.
So, don't remove the battery leads with the engine running.
And people please don't tell others that this is a way to test your
alternator!!!
To whoever you are - sk1pper. Please make sure that you have acurate and
safe info before you post to the list.
BTW, why do we have moderators on this list? Guys, I'm sure you've heard all
the coments about this way of 'testing' a car. Please, please, please don't
pass posts like this to the list. Somebody might do a lot of damage to the
car destroying every electronics circuit in the car and in extreme
situations it can actually cause fire. Since all that power from the
alternator has nowhere to go it will dissipate as heat in wires and that can
lead to FIRE!!!
According to these responses, two completely and opposite electrical conditions will occur. One will cause a spike, bypassing all fused links, and damage the computer and electrical equipment, and the second will damage the alternator, which produces the electrical current, and the electrical computers all at once. According to these "facts" as the load is removed the voltage and the amperage will increase damaging the components on the other side of the fuse box. According to Ohm's Law, this is an electrical impossibility. Second, even if this law could be broken, these sure things allude that the voltage will "push" the amperage passed the fused links and force too much into the vehicles systems destroying them.
Ironically, sticking a pocket knife near a spinning electrical item is a safer and a more precise way to measure electrical current than a multimeter.
"A quick and dirty way to see if the alternator is charging is to take something magnetic (like a pocket knife) and hold it close the the bearing on the end of the rotor away from the pulley. You will feel a strong magnetic attraction if the alternater is charging the battery. This is not a quantitative test, just a go-no go way to see if the alternater is working at all...There is no substitute for good test equipment and the knowledge to use it."
If this were true, the above would happen every time a battery would go bad. So the correct response should be:
"WARNING ALL! MAKE SURE THAT YOUR BATTERY IS WORKING
PROPERLY AT ALL TIMES OR YOUR CAR WILL CATCH ON FIRE!"
"To whoever you are - sk1pper. Please make sure that you have acurate and safe info before you post to the list."
BTW, why do we have moderators on this list? Guys, I'm sure you've heard all
the coments about this way of 'testing' a car. Please, please, please don't
pass posts like this to the list. Somebody might do a lot of damage to the
car destroying every electronics circuit in the car and in extreme
situations it can actually cause fire. Since all that power from the
alternator has nowhere to go it will dissipate as heat in wires and that can
lead to FIRE!!!
As a certified national electrical low voltage technician certified by NICET, NFPA, NBFAA, LBFAA, and test certified by NEC, in addition to 14+ years in the electrical field, in coordination with ASE certified training, producing over seven award winning vehicles and testing and installing a 140a alternator that properly works on my Delorean (www.sk1pper.com) AND six weeks of research in coordination with AC DELCO, GM, and O'Riley technicians, I think I do know what I am doing...
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 14
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 18:42:14 -0800
From: "Payne" <bpayne@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: New seeking answers
Hi!
I just purchased my first DeLorean which will be my daily driver for a
while. It's got 60,000 miles and has held up better than most other 20 year
old cars. Besides my overwhelming happiness at finally owning my dream car,
I have a few care and maintenace questions I'd rather not tie the mailing
list up with. So if anyone out there would be willing to help me out
through private E-mail I would be very appreciative. Thanks.
Brandon
bpayne@xxxxxxxxxx
Also, any owners near McMinnville OR?
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Message: 15
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 18:44:14 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Good morning list!
Mike, I'm sorry, I didn't know you had posted something I should have read,
sometimes I just skim. Re other ideas, I'm open, I don't think there's such a
thing as too much input. What I'm suggesting is here and now, can be done
quickly, and be gone with equally quick deletion. The projected works are
outstanding, I heartily endorse and will purchase whatever comes along. The new
parts manual is a monumental work, no way I could do it. As to being relaxed,
the only problem I have is too much fun. As to a cure for something that
doesn't exist, you might rethink that one.
Les
senatorpack@xxxxxx wrote:
> Les,
>
> It is a shame that someone out there took some cheap shots your idea.
> Heaven forbid that someone have a solution to a problem that doesn't exist.
>
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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 20:52:17 -0800
From: "B Benson" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: "New Owner Documentation"
Is it the long winter, my imagination, something in the water????? There
seems to be a lot of what appears to be animosity between some of the recent
posters. There also appears to be no more than a handful of subscribers
taking part in the discussion regarding a 'newbi' corner of the list. I'm
wondering if this is better taken to private emails between those folks
until something concrete surfaces from all of this. What seems like private
discussions [ and arguments, putdowns, and so on ] between two or three
individuals is beginning to turn off the other 997 subscribers. Let's tone
things down a bit.
Bruce, this week's moderator
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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 19:25:04 -0700
From: Darryl Tinnerstet <darryl@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: new manual
Les said:
> I've been on the list exactly 2 months but I've been on earth far longer
> than most of you (including Darryl T.) and though I'm not always right
> my percentage is pretty good.
I'm not sure if that was a compliment or if I just got insulted... I try
not to vent my opinions too often or too strongly, but sometimes I just
can't resist. I would have on the alternator issue, but others like Tom
beat me to it. Anyway, Les and Wayne, if I can be of help I would like to
offer what assistance I can. As with most of us these days, however, what I
have least of is time. But in addition to having been an owner and parts
vendor for the last 15 years, I am also (among other things) an editor of
technical manuals by profession. I would like to be involved in the editing
of whatever it is you end up doing. Contact me privately if you would.
--
Darryl Tinnerstet
Specialty Automotive
4 LaBelle Lane
McCleary, WA 98557
PH: 360-495-4640
FAX: 360-495-4680
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Message: 18
Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2001 19:30:28
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Correct Tire Pressure in BAR?
Living in Europe I was wondering what is the correct tire pressure for the
DeLorean. The manual talks about PSI, but over here we measure it in BAR.
So...what are the correct tire pressure in BAR?
Please advise,
Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
Norway
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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 22:20:51 -0600
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DMC for Sale Chicago Reduced for quicksale
Posting for a desperate seller/friend here in the Chicago area, a genuine
great deal.
ANOTHER PRICE REDUCTION - OFFICIALLY A FIRE SALE NOW - STEAL MY CAR at
$14000! Vin 20103. Stainless/Black/Manual. Last stainless DMC off the line
that was put up for sale. 40K miles. Very mechanically sound. Good
looking car. Long list of parts that were replaced or rebuilt.
Price reduced for quick sale. Was $20,000 and worth it. Just bought a
house and need mortgage money. Call for details. 773-583-8660 or email
michael(AT)stark.net - Micheal Stark.
=====
Dave S
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Message: 20
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 04:23:17 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Leaking trans fluid...
To make an educated guess a little more info is important like is the
car an automatic or 5-speed? Is it gear oil or red auto trans fluid?
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
-- In dmcnews@xxxx, RJRavalli@xxxx wrote:
> I've been slowly leaking trans fluid for awhile (it comes out slowly
usually
> after I drive the car) but now it seems to be getting a little worse
(maybe
> because I'm driving it more often?) I'm not sure where it is coming
from
> though...could it be a fluid pan or something else? Could someone
please
> help with estimating cost of fixing it?
>
> Thank you for any help,
>
> Richard
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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 04:31:12 -0000
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump Check Valve.
Jay, Depending on which fuel pump you have. The Bosch catalog shows
the De Lorean to use a 0-580-254-984, this has a long neck and has
the check valve built into it. The pump that I sell and just about
everyone uses is the same # except the last three digits is 957. This
957 pump has a shorter neck as shown on my web site. The check valve
is just screwed on and easily replaced. Unless I'm misintrepeting
something it's that easy. A real simple test is to take it off hold a
air hose on it and try to open it. I turn the air tank pressure down
to 40 to 50 lb's. I will post a long neck on the site in a few days
to show the difference. Could you have a lower pressure pump.
John Hervey
www.specialtauto.com
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, badgeman46@xxxx wrote:
> Pardon My ignorance when it comes to fuel systems, but is it
> possible to service just the check valve on the fuel pump? Or
replace
> the fuel pump altogether. My car is hard to hot start, yet I have a
> new accumulator in it, so I think it is losing fuel pressure out of
> the check valve. Any other suggestions? Thanks.
> -Jay
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Message: 22
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2001 04:43:31 -0000
From: jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: To all that know better about electricity and how to treat a first time poster...
I welcome all members of this list to contribute, new and old alike as
well as I am sure the majority of the list members. What I had to
respond to is complete disinformation. If owners (especially less
technically knowledgeable owners) followed your advice they could
damage their cars. If you are as you say credentialed please identify
where ANYONE advocates disconnecting an alternater while the engine is
running. Some of us on the list also have credentials. I am a licensed
Electrical Contracter in New Jersey, and an ASI Master Technician as
well as having a 4 year degree in Electrical Engineering. I have
worked on cars for many years and seen many things that should not be
repeated including an alternater test where "If you take off the wire
to the battery while the motor is running then the alternater MUST be
working or the motor would stop because there is no power to keep it
running". Although people do unsafe things and "get away" with it by
no means should it continue because it is inherently dangerous. You
generated such a response as you did because some others realized how
dangerous your post could be. If you have been reading the list for
any length of time you will understand that there are some readers who
have limited automotive knowledge. Without knowing how dangerous some
advice is they might try something that could get them into real
trouble. You obviously have some training but not enough practical
experience. Do not take personal offense and I encourage you to
continue to contribute and learn.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
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