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There are 16 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Eagle Premier 3 Litre engine
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
2. Re: 1/2 Price Window Regulators!
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
3. Ok list, this may be a hard one
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Exhaust.
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
5. Auto trans gov. problems...
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
6. Re: JZD LETTER
From: kkoncelik@xxxxxxx
7. DeLorean/Renault Alpine 310 (Was: Exhaust)
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway@xxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: It lives...
From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxx>
9. More fuse talk
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Arizona Events
From: Henry Breer <hbreer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Ok list, this may be a hard one
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: Auto trans gov. problems...
From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Re: Auto trans gov. problems...
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
14. fun with valet parking
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
15. DeLorean on Jeopardy!
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Re: Eagle Premier 3 Litre engine
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
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Message: 1
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 23:49:06 -0000
From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Eagle Premier 3 Litre engine
Does anyone have any pics of this engine conversion, or any details
of what exactly had to be done to complete it?
-Robert
vin 6585
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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 19:50:31 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: 1/2 Price Window Regulators!
Is there only one guy making these aftermarket window regulators? If there
is more than one, then is one design better than the other?
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 17:32:20 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Ok list, this may be a hard one
I'm out in the boonies and can't get decent radio reception so play
tapes, whenever I turn the radio off the tape jumps out, I'd like to
disable that circuit so the tape stays in like the late models...has
anyone done it? Did you use an external push button under the dash or
what? I guess I don't really expect an answer, that's the kind of stuff
I've always done but I'm also always open to a 2nd opinion before I jump
and you guys are pretty smart. Any thoughts?
Thanks, Les
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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 01:03:29 EST
From: dherv10@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Exhaust.
Robert,
Hot Rod Magazine did a feature story October 2000, Exhaust Science Explained.
Find hidden horse power. I will put the cover on my web site sunday night.
John Hervey
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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 05:23:17 EST
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
Subject: Auto trans gov. problems...
Hello list I need some help desperately here. I just spent alot of
money I didn't have replacing my auto trans governor. Now I
found that it shifted well until I tried to drive it for more than
30 minutes. It started to slip out of third after driving it for
an extended period of time, and eventually didn't shift back into
third at all. Also, when it is upshifting *fine*, I find that it has
kind of a *rough* downshift, almost like it's slipping gears a bit.
BUT when it wasn't shifting into 3rd, the downshift was smooth.
Now, did I get a bad part, was my installation job bad (I've never
had a problem with the place I go to before, even with electrical
problems), or is there something messed up in the electrical (?) system
of my car that won't let the governor work if the car has been
running too long? I've heard this part is notorious for having
problems, but there have GOT to be automatic DeLoreans out there
that are reliable and shift properly all the time. What's the trick?
And if mine needs more work, could someone tell me exactally
what it needs or is this going to be something I have to ship the
car off to a specialty place for to get diagnosed (which I absolutely
cannot afford)?
If anyone can help me PLEASE e-mail me! This is the biggest step
I will take with this car for the forseeable future and I really
want to keep it on the road, but I'm scared that I'm going
to have to end up selling it (after years of wanting and recently
purchasing a DeLorean). I'm trying to ressurect this DeLorean
piece by piece but I don't know if I'll be able to do it.
Thank you for any help,
Richard
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Message: 6
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 08:14:07 EST
From: kkoncelik@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: JZD LETTER
Unfortunately I did not get the file in an electronic form
It is as you noted scanned and in a jpg format.
I'll see what can be done.
Hope everyone enjoyed reading it
Ken
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 7
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 14:24:47
From: "Stian Birkeland" <dmc_norway@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DeLorean/Renault Alpine 310 (Was: Exhaust)
Hello,
Check out this page:
http://www.simon-auto.de
and:
http://www.simon-auto.de/devil.html
The exhaust system offered on the page looks interesting.
Has any of the German owners on this list tried to see if the "DEVIL 2-Rohr
Mit Fächerkrümmer für den A310" will fit the DeLorean?
I guess the cat would have to be removed, but other than that it looks
interesting, and should gain a few extra horsepower with this non-restricted
exhaust.
Another question, is the transmission used in the Alpine the same as in the
DeLorean? Would the Alpine transmission fit the DeLorean?
Best wishes
Stian Birkeland
Norway
VIN # 06759
>From: DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: [DML] Exhaust.
>Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 23:42:36 -0000
>
>Admitedly, I would like to learn a bit more about exhaust systems.
>Can anyone here reccomend any good books I could pick up at the
>library?
>
>-Robert
>vin 6585
>
>
>
>Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
>www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
_________________________________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 8
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 11:55:44 -0500
From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: It lives...
njp548@xxxxxxx wrote:
> The way that I adjusted the
> timing is that I used a push button type switch that went directly from the
> positive jump start lead on the passenger side firewall of the engine
> compartment and the starter, and I removed the spark plug from the #1
> cylinder and I stuck my thumb in there so I could feel the compression of the
> piston as it moved up the cylinder,
Congrats on getting her running! You may just be done before me! =)
One warning to all though -- NEVER use the thumb method of testing for TDC. It's way too easy to bump the switch a bit too hard and get the flesh on your thumb stripped off by the suction on the downstroke. Been there, done that...
-Dave Stragand
http://www.ProjectVixen.com
VIN #05927
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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 08:54:48 -0800
From: Les Huckins <jhuckins@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: More fuse talk
Thanks David and DMC Joe re my missing #4 fuse but think you both missed
it slightly, my book says #4 handles the stop light switch and #18
handles the stop light lamps. Anyway, was fuse day and I checked them
all, 5 were the wrong size per the book, 4 were over and 1 was under.
It got looked at because the air conditioner was turned on for the first
time and it went 5 minutes and quit. Checked the fuses first and the
fuse was good but socket was loose and the spade tips on the fuse were
nasty looking with what seemed like some sort of gray goo on them. Was
one of the oversized fuses anyway so tightened the socket (I use two
small pointed tools to push the contacts closer together) gave the new
fuse a shot of WD-40 on the contacts and plugged it back in. Works just
fine. (Remember, I put WD-40 on every electrical contact and highly
recommend the idea). As long as I was in the neighborhood I checked all
of the fuse sizes and all of the socket contacts (by pulling on the
fuses, if they came out easily I tightened the contacts).
Good tight fuse connections are an absolute must, particularly in high
current situations. As a generalization, nearly all cases of melting of
the plastic material and destruction of the fuse holder is simply a poor
electrical connection. If not really tight, mechanically and
electrically (clean) oxidization sets in, a high resistance path starts
to occur, and it continues to worsen until something gives, sometimes
not until it actually starts arcing wherein you can smell it.
Tightening the contacts handles the mechanical, WD-40 handles the
electrical (of course if the fuse tips are not like new, clean them with
whatever method you use, or better yet, for the price, replace the fuse,
especially if it shows signs of heat, I'm sure you know that heat can
change the molecular structure of the metal).
Today is the end of my first month of ownership and thanks to the list
my confidence level is well above where I started. I'm well below the
point of arrogance but starting to get a decent grip. To those of you
who really try to help a great big thanks, to the others, a differing
point of view is often helpful too.
Les
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Message: 10
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 10:47:01 -0800
From: Henry Breer <hbreer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Arizona Events
Arizona Owners:
We were starting to assemble events for our column in DeLorean World,
and came across these two that sounded interesting but happen too soon
for publication.
March 11
Phoenix
"Wheels of Britain Car and Motorcycle Show"
Sponsored by British Motor Enthusiasts at Heritage Square Park Free
Admission 480/759-9386, e-mail koolkataz@xxxxxxxxx
April 8
Mira Mesa
Barrett Classic Monthly Car Show
Show. Swap. Sell. All Vehicles welcome. Many trophies from exotic
to unrestored originals. Miramar College, 10440 Black Mtn. Rd. (off
I-15 at SC) 858/693-9073, Fax 858/530-1641
Hank & Mimi Breer
VIN 1141
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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 14:30:17 -0500 (EST)
From: William T Wilson <fluffy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Ok list, this may be a hard one
On Fri, 23 Feb 2001, Les Huckins wrote:
> I'm out in the boonies and can't get decent radio reception so play
> tapes, whenever I turn the radio off the tape jumps out, I'd like to
> disable that circuit so the tape stays in like the late models...has
This isn't really a good idea. Newer model tape decks "disengage" the
tape head from the actual cassette when not playing. Older ones such as
the one in the DeLorean don't, which will cause lots of premature wear on
the tapes and some on the head, as well.
It's not going to make your tape explode or anything but it will degrade
the sound quality much faster than it otherwise would.
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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 12:59:25 -0800
From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Auto trans gov. problems...
At 5:23 AM -0500 2/24/01, RJRavalli@xxxxxxx wrote:
>Hello list I need some help desperately here. I just spent alot of
>money I didn't have replacing my auto trans governor. Now I
>found that it shifted well until I tried to drive it for more than
>30 minutes. It started to slip out of third after driving it for
>an extended period of time, and eventually didn't shift back into
>third at all. Also, when it is upshifting *fine*, I find that it has
>kind of a *rough* downshift, almost like it's slipping gears a bit.
>BUT when it wasn't shifting into 3rd, the downshift was smooth.
>
In diagnosing this kind of problem, it is essential to first
determine whether the governor is at fault or whether you have a
mechanical problem. Fortunately this is easy to do. You need to build
yourself a little test rig that lets you see (while you drive) what
the governor is telling the transmission. This has been covered in
the list in the past (check the archives), but here's the general
idea:
1) Find the round black terminal block where the computer governor
connects to the solenoid wires. It is in the engine compartment on
the left firewall. Looks like some kind of diagnostic connector, but
is really just a set of terminals. There are three wires going
through this connector: One each for the two shift solenoids and a
common. The center terminal is common. There are also two unused
terminals. If we number the five terminals clockwise from 1 to 5,
what we want to monitor is the potential between terminals 2 and 3
and between 3 and 4. If I remember correctly, the common (terminal
3) signal is +12V, and terminals 2 and 4 get pulled to ground by the
governor to activate the respective solenoids. In any event, this can
readily be determined with a test light or voltmeter. When the car
is in neutral or low gear, you should read a 12V potential between 2
and 3 and also between 4 and 3. The trick is to be able to watch how
this changes when the transmission is in action.
2) To accomplish this, run a 3-wire cable from this connector into
the passenger compartment (4-wire telephone cable from Radio Shack is
good for this). Connect the three wires to terminals 2, 3, and 4. Run
the wire up your steering column so it comes out between the dash and
the column.
3) Obtain 2 LEDs (Radio Shack again) one red and one green. You also
need two 1500 ohm (brown green red stripes) resistors. Connect a
resistor in series with the other end of the wires coming from
terminals 2 and 4. Connect the other side of the resistors to the
negative (unmarked) sides of the LEDs. Connect the positive (marked)
sides of the LEDs (I'm doing this from memory--hope I don't have it
all backwards) together and also to the wire coming from the center
(#3) terminal. You can impress your friends by neatly packaging this
precision instrument inside a 35mm film can.
4) Loosen your steering wheel adjustment clamp (you *do* know you
have one, right?) and let the wheel drop. Position the film can
between the steering column and the dash positioned so that you can
see the LEDs while driving and slowly raise the wheel so that the can
is firmly captured. Tighten the wheel in place.
5) Turn on the key. Both LEDs should now be shining cheerfully
(assuming your governor is functioning semi-correctly).
6) Go for a ride. If he governor is operating correctly, the lights
should go out one as a time, as the car shifts into second and third
gear, respectively. In high gear, both lights should be off. When
the vehicle downshifts, the lights should come back on in turn. It
should now be an easy matter to decide whether your particular
aberrant transmission behavior is due to bad advice from the governor
or mechanical problems in the transmission itself.
If you are not comfortable dealing with such highly sophisticated
digital circuitry, please get some advice from somebody who is. I may
have gotten all this wrong and of course accept no responsibility for
damage to you or your vehicle.
Hope this helps,
Pete Lucas
VIN #06703
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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 16:49:54 EST
From: RJRavalli@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: Auto trans gov. problems...
Pete, thank you for the help, but my mechanic (who knows DeLoreans
pretty well, at least better than any other mechanic in my area)
said they already isolated the problem. According to them, they tested the
transmission without the governor and they couldn't find any
mechanical problems; they were sure it was electrical. (And since I
don't know jack about cars, I wouldn't be able to do what you described.)
So would you recommend I get a new governor on warranty and have the
same place re-install it to see what happens, should I go someplace
else for a second opinion, or something else?
But thank you for the testing method...I will save your mail incase I
need it,
Richard
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Message: 14
Date: Fri, 23 Feb 2001 20:09:53 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: fun with valet parking
As I drive through the 'non-valet' parking lane to drop off a passenger, the
valet attendant begs for a test drive. He tells me that he has parked just
about every kind of sports car made, but never a DeLorean yet. How could I
turn the guy down? He was wearing the uniform and it was a reputable place.
So I let him take it for a drive around the parking lot while he asked
questions the whole time. Then the other valet wanted a test drive, too.
He thought it was a Lamborghini! That car makes me feel like a celebrity
everywhere I drive it.
It took the second guy a while to figure out how to open the door from the
inside. It would be a good idea if someone made a decal to fit over the
door latch with a big arrow and instructions that say "PULL TO OPEN". The
top surface gets little wear, so a decal should hold up well. Does anyone
have an opinion on this? Maybe etching the plastic and filling it in with
white paint. I think it would be an improvement.
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 15
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 12:26:38 -0500
From: James Espey <james@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DeLorean on Jeopardy!
De Lorean Motor Company has just supplied the producers of the television
game show "Jeopardy" with a photo DeLorean for use in an upcoming episode.
If I am able to get more details regarding the air date, I will post a
message to the list...
James Espey
DeLorean Motor Company
Houston, Texas
281/568-9573
800/USA-DMC1
http://www.delorean.com
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Message: 16
Date: Sat, 24 Feb 2001 16:24:59 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Eagle Premier 3 Litre engine
I assume you are asking about the conversion of the PRV-6 to the DeLorean
Application; am I right?
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, February 23, 2001 6:49 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Eagle Premier 3 Litre engine
> Does anyone have any pics of this engine conversion, or any details
> of what exactly had to be done to complete it?
>
> -Robert
> vin 6585
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