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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 22 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. Re: Theory of operation (was Diode in Lock Module)
From: "Ralf Philipp" <doc.brown@xxxxxx>
2. Stainless Door Sill "DMC" Letters
From: "Richard Ractliffe" <rractlif@xxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Fixed battery drain & had Tampa show
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
4. Re: Re: MORE Theory of operation (was Diode in Lock Module)
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
5. Re Road Noises
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf@xxxxxxxxx>
6. DeLorean on E
From: BondAtomic@xxxxxxx
7. Re: Stainless Door Sill "DMC" Letters
From: Trevor L Johnson <comet4055@xxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Stainless Door Sill "DMC" Letters
From: abatt10347@xxxxxxx
9. Dash cap...
From: "Dan RC30" <Danrc30@xxxxxxxxxxx>
10. Re: Grounds
From: "Robert Rooney" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
11. Starting problems
From: "chris " <chris@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
12. Re: Re Road Noises
From: "Robert Rooney" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Re Road Noises
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: Re Road Noises
From: David Sontos <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
15. T Panel
From: wmack <wmack@xxxxxx>
16. Extra Horsepower
From: wmack <wmack@xxxxxx>
17. DeLorean on GAC
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Re: Re: Grounds
From: "Fronzel Neekburm" <MIst_hunter1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: Side Stripe Questions
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
20. Re: Starting problems
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
21. Re: Extra Horsepower
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
22. Re: Re Road Noises
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Sun, 17 Dec 2000 02:56:17 +0100
From: "Ralf Philipp" <doc.brown@xxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Theory of operation (was Diode in Lock Module)
Walter!
I think your explanation was close, but not totally correct.
My version of the function of the lock circuit:
When the switch is NOT in the position 'unlock', the transistor Q11 is
switched on (positive voltage via R12 and D13). So the capacitor C11 is
charged via resistor R11 and transistor Q11. D12 is reverse-biased (may I
say 'shut'?) at this moment.
When the 'door unlock' switch is closed, the voltage at the anodes of D5 and
D13 is pulled down to GND (or 0.7V to be exact) and two things happen:
1) the transistor Q11 is switched off immediately because there is no
current flow any more through its base. (D13 raises the switch-on-voltage of
Q11 from 0.7V to 1.4V, so it is definitely switched off now.)
2) the electromagnet of the relay RL11 gets a ground connection (through D5)
Now, there is a path for the charge which is stored in C11. That means, C11
is discharged trough D12, RL11 and D5. This short current pulse causes the
relay RL11 to switch on for a moment.
As soon as the switch leaves the 'unlock' position, Q11 is switched on
again.... (see above)
I agree that the diagram has got an error.
Ralf.
VIN10284
> This is my OPINION on how the 'unlock' side of the door lock module
operates
> based on Dave Swingle's diagram. Remember, this my opinion and I have
been
> wrong before.
> Walt Tampa, FL
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 17 Dec 2000 02:17:01
From: "Richard Ractliffe" <rractlif@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Stainless Door Sill "DMC" Letters
I was looking to see if any one knew where I could find some stainless "DMC"
letters that can be added to the black door sill. I have seen a picture of
them in an old DMC catalogue I have but unfortunately have been unable to
find then now. Can anyone help?
Also, I'm looking for a mechanice in the St. Louis area, any ideas? Ours
moved away.
Thanks for all of your help,
Richard Ractliffe
VIN 6635
Built Nov '81
Proud owner since 7/82
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Sat, 16 Dec 2000 21:14:36 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Fixed battery drain & had Tampa show
Tom and I finally found the mysterious battery drain problem on Randy's car.
It was a bad start inhibit relay. The relay shorted internally causing the
coil to get voltage through one of the switch legs. Before we pulled the
relay out, we could feel it was warm from the continuos drain it was putting
on the battery. Luckily, I keep a spare relay handy in my relay
compartment, so we were able to fix it on the spot.
This afternoon we had a club meet in Tampa at Randy Stribling's house. Two
Deloreans where there! Wow! Mine and Randy's. Also there were DML list
contributors Tom Niemczewski (who's car is still recovering from an
accident) and Jeremiah (DMC Wannabe). We also had a new guy show, JT, who
hasn't had his car running in months. We are going to meet at his house
next week to get his car running. He was discussing wanting to sell or
trade his DMC for a van, but once it is running I think he may want to keep
the D and trade his red Z instead!
If there are any DMLers out there near Tampa, Florida, don't hesitate to
give one of us Tampa guys a call. We are trying to put together a local
club. And please don't all of you call at once. I don't want my phone to
overload. :)
Walt Tampa, FL
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Message: 4
Date: Sat, 16 Dec 2000 21:57:33 -0500
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: MORE Theory of operation (was Diode in Lock Module)
Jim,
You just gave me a great idea for designing a new door lock module. If the
door locks get out of sync then the module would remember the previous lock
switch status BEFORE it went out of sync so that it could then send 3 quick
pulses to try to free a sticky mechanism. THIS is the feedback loop I was
looking for -- without any added wires! This would also give an audio
indication that the door locks are developing a problem. If you only hear
one 'thump' when you hit the door lock, then you know the doors are actually
locked. If you hear multiple pulses, then you know to check your doors.
This would work either off the door key or a keyless remote entry as well.
Does anyone like this idea? Or is everyone happy enough with the Lockzilla?
Until I perfect this system, I'm thinking about adding a buzzer that will
sound when it detects a mismatched state between the door locks. I don't
want to risk having one of the doors left unlocked considering that my car
picks up fingerprints everywhere I park it. Maybe I would call it the
'Lockzilla Fix' alah PJ Grady and John Hervey. :)
By the way, I'm still holding to my last explaination for the function of
diode D5. It was probably a little too vague, so I'll say it again in more
detailed terms:
The reason for diode D5 being in the circuit is to stop +12V from getting
through the 'lock doors' light bulb filiment and interefering with the bias
on transistor Q11. This situation only exists while the unlock switch is
not shunting the voltage to ground causing the bulb to light.
Comments?
Walt Tampa, FL
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 5
Date: Sat, 16 Dec 2000 20:25:49 -0800
From: "Murray Fisher" <murrayf@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re Road Noises
Several asked me for the source for that lead sound deadening material. I am sorry, but it was several years ago and I just have no records and no ideas where to even look. We were boating in those days also and this source was an ad in one of the major boating magazines. The only source at the time was somewhere in Canada and I remember the shipping was as much as the material itself. The lead came in several forms....you could buy it in rolls of varying widths and thicknesses and also it came in sheets that were bonded to a stiffening material. The lead itself was soft and very flexible...It would not support it own weight at all. Later on the same brand name became available in the USA. I wish I could help, but am a complete blank. Maybe a search via some Search Engine on the Internet would come up with something.
Murray Vin: 05962 Lic: DMC-XII
Washington State
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 6
Date: Sun, 17 Dec 2000 12:19:13 EST
From: BondAtomic@xxxxxxx
Subject: DeLorean on E
Hey
Of course all of you know there is a DeLorean special on E! every so ofter,
but I just wanted to know how I could get a tape of it- am I going to be
stuck having to look for it and tape it myself?
Thanks,
John Feldman
VIN 4275
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 7
Date: Sun, 17 Dec 2000 11:27:35 -0800
From: Trevor L Johnson <comet4055@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Stainless Door Sill "DMC" Letters
Any Parts dealer should be able to supply you a set, DMCenter (Don) has
the least expensive and they're easy to attach, but D1 has them, I am
pretty sure DMC Houston has them...
Trevor Johnson
#6974 and 4055
_
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 8
Date: Sun, 17 Dec 2000 14:34:26 EST
From: abatt10347@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Stainless Door Sill "DMC" Letters
Check on ebay, I think I saw some for sale.
Bruce Battles
Vin # 06569
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 16 Dec 2000 17:25:20 -1000
From: "Dan RC30" <Danrc30@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Dash cap...
A dash cap is good, but I'd still want that over a nice dashboard. I've put
so much time and money into my car that I'd really like a new dashboard. But
a new one is just too costly for me right now... Nobody has one available at
a fair price? I didn't say "cheap", just a "fair" price...
---Dan
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 10
Date: Sun, 17 Dec 2000 21:04:59 -0000
From: "Robert Rooney" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Grounds
While there are technicly ground connections all over the car, here
are 3 major ones to look for:
1. Front harness ground. To reach the ground, remove the access panel
over the brake master cylinder. Where the left radiator support
bracket bolts to the chassis.
2. Starter ground. Remove the air cleaner box on top of the engine.
>From here you will have full access to the bolt which is located on
the top of the right side of the chassis directly under the coolant
overflow bottle.
3. Battery ground. Remove the deflector shield covering the right
side trailing arm. From here you should be able to access the bolt.
To clean all the connections I removed everything and cleaned both
the bolts, wires, and the connecting surfaces with foamy engine
brite. Ever since my headlights have been brighter, my engine starts
much easier, and the voltmeter on the dash has gone down a little
bit. Now if I run my A/C @ night and stop, my lights don't dim.
-Robert
vin 6585 (The DeLorean from hell.)
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "J Rowe" <rowejj@xxxx> wrote:
> Hello all, I was wondering if someone could tell me where all
the grounding points are located around the car.
Jason
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Sun, 17 Dec 2000 21:16:41 -0000
From: "chris " <chris@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Starting problems
I am having problems starting my car, it does the same if its cold or
hot. I start the car with the gas pedal depressed 1/4, the car starts
revs up to 2,000 then go back down to 0 no mater what i do to the gas
pedal. It take 2 or 3 goes to get the car to run. Also the cat is
still glowing red, it back fires sometimes, i think its in the intake
manifold. The plugs are sooted black. I am assmuing the CO2 mixture
needs adjusting?
Thanks
Chris S
Vin 16327
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 12
Date: Sun, 17 Dec 2000 21:43:53 -0000
From: "Robert Rooney" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re Road Noises
Searching on the net I found a variety of websites for companies that
supply these sheets of lead insulation/sound barriers. The one that
seems to have what everyone is looking for http://www.soundown.com/
They also appear to have a specific product that is made to go under
the carpet to prevent road noise as well.
-Robert
vin 6585 (The DeLorean from hell.)
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Murray Fisher" <murrayf@xxxx> wrote:
> Several asked me for the source for that lead sound deadening
material.
> Murray Vin: 05962 Lic: DMC-XII
> Washington State
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Sun, 17 Dec 2000 22:24:29 -0000
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re Road Noises
A good source for lead is a vendor who sells lead for radiation
shielding. When I had my hollow metal company we had from time to time
to supply doors and frames with lead sheeting installed for radiation
shielding for doctor's offices. We also used it for sound deadening.
One of the vendors was called Radiation Shielding and they were in New
Jersey but I don't remember the city. We bought it in sheets 36" wide
rolled up about 10' long and a roll was HEAVY. Handling it is not
dangerous as long as you don't grind or sand it. You can't breath in
shavings or slivers. Use gloves and don't eat near it or smoke. Try
Eastwoodcompany.com and look at Dynamat for sound, it isn't as heavy
and is easy to install.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Murray Fisher" <murrayf@xxxx> wrote:
> Several asked me for the source for that lead sound deadening
material. I am sorry, but it was several years ago and I just have no
records and no ideas where to even look.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Sun, 17 Dec 2000 17:27:09 -0500
From: David Sontos <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re Road Noises
Twenty some years ago I also used a sound proofing blanket material that was a sandwich of closed cell neoprene foam with a lead sheet in between when we were sound proofing a machine room at work. Ten years later I again needed to soundproof a machine enclosure and contacted the company I had used before. They politely informed me that they no longer used lead because it was a hazardous substance. They now supply a closed cell neoprene with a plastic sheet sandwiched in between. Doesn't work half as good as the lead sheet though.
When I was redoing the interior of my "D", I used a PAS 1/4" thick closed cell neoprene sheet that came in 36" wide rolls on the bare fiberglass passenger wells and then covered that with 1/2" thick jute padding. Made a considerable difference but still not as good as the lead sheet stuff.
Dave Sontos
VIN 02573
Murray Fisher wrote:
> Several asked me for the source for that lead sound deadening material. I am sorry, but it was several years ago and I just have no records and no ideas where to even look.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Sun, 17 Dec 2000 23:27:43 -0500
From: wmack <wmack@xxxxxx>
Subject: T Panel
HOw do you take off the T Panel without damaging it?
Thanks
Willie
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 16
Date: Sun, 17 Dec 2000 23:28:49 -0500
From: wmack <wmack@xxxxxx>
Subject: Extra Horsepower
Can anyone recommand any header pipes or performance exhaust systems that fit
or can be adaptoed to the Delorean?
Thanks
Willie Mack
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 17
Date: Sun, 17 Dec 2000 21:12:08 -0500
From: Josh Haldeman <jhaldeman@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: DeLorean on GAC
Hey List,
I was just informed by a friend that there is a DeLorean in a
country music parody seen on the GAC cable network. The song is called
"How to Milk a Cow" and it's sung by a guy named Cletus...something. I
don't have a last name and I don't have cable, so I can't watch for it!
(ahhh!)
Apparently they show a red DeLorean from the back for a few seconds,
then it makes another longer background appearance later on. Does
anyone have any better information on this? It'd be interesting to know
if the owner of the car is on the list!
Cheers,
Josh
VIN 5102
VIN 15964
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Mon, 18 Dec 2000 05:48:21
From: "Fronzel Neekburm" <MIst_hunter1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Grounds
Speaking of grounds, when I spent a month catching up by reading back issues
before joining the current stream, there was a subject about alternator
trouble. And someone said that the delorean doesn't have very much
grounding, hench some of the power problems. (including bad alternators) And
a aid to this was to get a heavy wire, and bolt it down to the frame, and to
the nearest grounding point. (i.e. the alternator) But this was months ago,
I'm not a expert on deloreans, just a wannabe owner. I could be wrong.
John
__ __
\____/
/____\
0 0
DeLorean
>From: "Robert Rooney" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
>To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: [DML] Re: Grounds
>Date: Sun, 17 Dec 2000 21:04:59 -0000
>
>While there are technicly ground connections all over the car, here
>are 3 major ones to look for:
>
>1. Front harness ground. To reach the ground, remove the access panel
>over the brake master cylinder. Where the left radiator support
>bracket bolts to the chassis.
>
>2. Starter ground. Remove the air cleaner box on top of the engine.
>From here you will have full access to the bolt which is located on
>the top of the right side of the chassis directly under the coolant
>overflow bottle.
>
>3. Battery ground. Remove the deflector shield covering the right
>side trailing arm. From here you should be able to access the bolt.
>
>To clean all the connections I removed everything and cleaned both
>the bolts, wires, and the connecting surfaces with foamy engine
>brite. Ever since my headlights have been brighter, my engine starts
>much easier, and the voltmeter on the dash has gone down a little
>bit. Now if I run my A/C @ night and stop, my lights don't dim.
>
>-Robert
>vin 6585 (The DeLorean from hell.)
>
>
>
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "J Rowe" <rowejj@xxxx> wrote:
> > Hello all, I was wondering if someone could tell me where all
>the grounding points are located around the car.
>
>Jason
>
>
>Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
>www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
>To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
>moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Sat, 16 Dec 2000 22:28:50 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Side Stripe Questions
John,
Just like any piece of body trim if a section is damaged you must replace
the damaged section. There are two basic styles of the DMC Accent
Sidestraps. The wide black textured stripe is most common and is basically
no longer available. The gray thin stripe is the other style and is still
available form DeLorean Services, DeLorean Motor Company, PJ Grady, and
DeLorean One.
Both stripes were manufactured by 3M and made from a product 3M calls
"Scotchcal".
"We're here to help you"
Seasons Greetings!
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: (TEMPORARY)<www.geocities.com/dmcjoe>
----- Original Message -----
From: Fronzel Neekburm <MIst_hunter1@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2000 4:57 AM
Subject: [DML] Side Stripe Questions
> Hi DML,
>
> I've been seeing alot of deloreans with the deal stripe on a lot of web
site
> latly, and it has raised a few questions. What do you do if you get a
> scratch right on the stripe? i'm sure you just can't brush it out, what is
> it exzactly made of? And this last one is for James, is DMC Houstion
selling
> the thin gray strip and the black dealer stripe? Or do you just have the
> stripe?
> John
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 20
Date: Mon, 18 Dec 2000 08:23:41 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Starting problems
Chris,
You first problem is you should not depress the accelerator pedal when
starting the engine. Try starting the car without touching the accelerator
pedal. If it still will not start you may, as you indicated, need a CO mix
adjustment.
"We're here to help you"
Seasons Greetings!
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: (TEMPORARY)<www.geocities.com/dmcjoe>
----- Original Message -----
From: chris <chris@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2000 4:16 PM
Subject: [DML] Starting problems
> I am having problems starting my car, it does the same if its cold or
> hot. I start the car with the gas pedal depressed 1/4, the car starts
> revs up to 2,000 then go back down to 0 no mater what i do to the gas
> pedal. It take 2 or 3 goes to get the car to run. Also the cat is
> still glowing red, it back fires sometimes, i think its in the intake
> manifold. The plugs are sooted black. I am assmuing the CO2 mixture
> needs adjusting?
>
> Thanks
>
> Chris S
> Vin 16327
>
>
>
> Before posting messages or replies, see the posting policy rules at:
> www.dmcnews.com/Admin/rules.html
>
> To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:
> moderator@xxxxxxxxxxx
>
>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 21
Date: Mon, 18 Dec 2000 15:14:53 -0000
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Extra Horsepower
Willie,
There are no off the shelf header pipes that will fit the Delorean
only because the way the engine is placed. They only way to get
header pipes to fit in there is to have them custom made (also mount
them in reverse so the output of the headers are facing the rear of
the car). You'll also have to eliminate the one muffler and have two
separate ones along with two separate cats. Borla used to make a
universal fit muffler that fit nicely at the ends of the pipes (just
before the tips) but from what I hear is that they do not make that
size anymore. Their dies for it wore out and since it wasn't a
popular size the axed the idea of making a new die. The only way to
go (and expensive) is to get a whole new exhaust system custom made.
That is the only way you'll get better "Exhaust modification"
performance. One thing you will want to be careful of if you do get a
custom made one is to make sure who ever is doing it does not route
the pipes to close to the alternator. This can cost you up too $5,000
to do...about the same price as getting one of DMC Houston's modified
performance engine. Only bad thing about that is you can't buy the
performance parts from them and do the work yourself (or your
favorite local mechanic), you have to ship the engine to them or buy
a whole new crated modified engine (more expensive).
On the subject of the performance engine....why is it that I or
anyone else couldn't just buy the performance parts from DMC Houston
and perform the upgrades ourselves? I mean the cost of shipping the
engine to Houston, getting the upgrade performed then getting it
shipped back....I could buy another Delorean! Maybe I'll get one of
my pro race car building frinds to help me blue print the D engine
(when/if he has time :( ) and have my local machine shop custom
make/modify the parts I would need.
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, wmack <wmack@xxxx> wrote:
> Can anyone recommand any header pipes or performance exhaust
systems that fit
> or can be adaptoed to the Delorean?
>
> Thanks
> Willie Mack
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Mon, 18 Dec 2000 15:35:19 -0000
From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re Road Noises
Lead?! Why would anyone want to use lead for a sound barrier on the D
or any car for that fact!! You know how much weight you would add to
the car? That would cause the car to have LESS performance (slower,
crappy gas milege..etc) which is something you don't want. You could
also damage your engine and/or tranny with the added weight by making
them work harder than they should be. Use neoprene mats, you can
easily find sound deading material at any good audio store..I found
that PC Richards is selling them (NY area at least). They use the
mats in the doors and trunks of cars to sound proof it so that the
stereo sound will be greater and resonate in the car...no sound
escaping from INSIDE the car. They also have Rubberized undercoating
for the car that is a sound deading material. You simply spray it on
the underside of the car. Although you might be able to lift the
carpeting in the D and spray it on the inside floor, you won't see it
after the rug is put back and it won't cause any headaches if you
need to do some repairs under the car (stuff gets everywhere). Most
Auto manufactures use this stuff to minimize the road noise (look
under you other cars besides the D, it's the black rubbery stuff that
has a wrinkle finish to it). The Draw back is that it is messy, if
you are doing it yourself, and not as good as the mat...but if you
use it in conjunction with the mat, it may decrease the road noise
considerably.
Steve
www.dmcman.homestead.com
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "jtrealty@xxxx " <jtrealty@xxxx> wrote:
> A good source for lead is a vendor who sells lead for radiation
> shielding. When I had my hollow metal company we had from time to
time
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
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