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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 21 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. ADMIN: Quote-trimming and other list behavior
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Gas Flap Hood
From: "Kevin Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
3. Re: Re: Re: Aftermarket rims (was Re: Colors update)
From: "Dan RC30" <Danrc30@xxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Re: Question on A/C system
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Storage, changing fluids, etc.
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
6. Re: Question on A/C system
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Delorean Goodyear ads
From: Henry Breer <hbreer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
8. Re: Question on A/C system
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
9. Re: Storage (plus fuel accumulator question)
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
10. Variety Car Shows...
From: "TMasterLC@xxxxxxx" <tmasterlc@xxxxxxx>
11. Re: Question on A/C system
From: "Lynn Metz" <metzlynn@xxxxxxxxxxx>
12. More Storage
From: Watkins Family <watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Re: oil filters - which one for a D?
From: "Don Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
14. Re: DMC model
From: "Roger Brogren" <rbrogren@xxxxxxx>
15. Vegas Winery Drive & Lake Meade Cruise
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. Re: Delorean Goodyear ads
From: Tamir Ardon <tamir@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. Idle Speed Regulator Problems.
From: "Robert Rooney" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
18. More Storage
From: "B Benson" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: Question on A/C system
From: "Robert Rooney" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
20. Who Wants a Backlit Dash? (Again)
From: Jim Reeve <ultra@xxxxxxx>
21. More on D model from German DMC Club
From: "Roger Brogren" <rbrogren@xxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 18:02:21 -0000
From: "Dave Swingle" <dswingle@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: ADMIN: Quote-trimming and other list behavior
We have to bring this back up once in a while. Thanks for reading.
TRIM QUOTES----
PLEASE, when replying to postings on the list, take the time to edit
down the part you are replying to. Just leave enough so that we can
tell what you are replying to, not the entire prior two or three
messages. It only takes a second, and makes a huge difference in the
archives and in general readability of the list, not to mention
people's download time.
CHECK SUBJECT LINE---
When replying to a digest, change the subject line to "re:
thesubject". Having the subject be an entire digest is confusing and
probably causes people to skip reading your post. Also, please pay
attention, it is normal for the subject of a thread to migrate, (like
the recent "oil filter" to "storage" thread). As you reply to these,
please change the topic to what you are talking about.
Dave Swingle
Moderator of Moderators, DML
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 2
Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2000 20:51:44 -0600
From: "Kevin Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Gas Flap Hood
I think ideas publicly is ok- fodder for thought.
How about sticking a stainless screw in the hole and carefully
sanding/grinding it down to match?
I might want to try that myself to get a gas flap on my car.... so if you
don't want to try it, let me know (privately) how much you want for it.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 3
Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2000 17:02:38 -1000
From: "Dan RC30" <Danrc30@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Re: Aftermarket rims (was Re: Colors update)
Walt,
Of course I was talking about rim diameter and not overall wheel diameter.
Lol! I expected that this would be the assumption. Wheel=aluminum wheel in
this case, but I'll clarify now. Boy, 2" bigger overall wheel? That would
look silly... Anyway, all of my rims are almost exactly where the stock ones
were regarding offset. Since they are 1" wider in the front, they stick in
more than out. If I'm recalling correctly, they only sick out about 3/8, or
maybe 1/2 of an inch, and the rest is on the inside. This is not a big deal
at all and won't really make a difference on the suspension. There is a
little room to play on the DeLorean, but not much!
I can't believe that anyone would re-drill wheels in the first place. The
lug pattern on the DeLorean is a standard pattern that is found on almost
any 4-lug wheel. I think redrilling todays wheels would be dangerous. I say
this because the tolerance levels are low on todays wheels. They are made
with the least amount of material as possible to save weight, which makes
them more fragile. Not that they'll break or bend... because I've hit some
serious potholes with my car and have had no problems. I'm saying fragile in
the case that they would be sensitive to any modifications, i.e., redrilling
lugholes.
---Dan
From: "Walter" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: Aftermarket rims (was Re: Colors update)
Dan,
The reason for our disagreement concerning rims is due to how these rims fit
the car. First of all, my rims are 2" bigger in diameter, but the inside of
the tires are also 2" bigger in diameter -- the outside of the tire is the
same diameter as the original wheels. I think you meant to say the same
thing, but you said 'wheels are 2" bigger in diameter'. That sort of
implies outer wheel diameter. I'm sure you're talking about only the rims
being bigger?
_____________________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 4
Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2000 22:12:55 -0500
From: "Dave Sontos" <dsontos@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Question on A/C system
> 1. What should I suspect/check on my system that would go bad from it
> being dry for some time now?
Has the system been opened for some reason? Collison damage? Compressor
replacement? If the car has been sitting idle for a looong time without
running the seals on the compressor will dry out and will leak out the
freon. Thats why on new cars when you start up the car the compressor comes
on for a short time even with the AC off.
> 2. Is the new "legal" freon as cold as the old stuff? I have only
> dealt with the older stuff so I can't compare the two.
Stick with the old R12
> 3. Can I check for leaks in the system without charging it with
> freon? I know that there are special UV Dyes out there you can inject
> into the system and use a black light to track the leak. Can I use
> this without charging the system or do I have to charge it so I can
> run the A/C to find the leak?
Find a shop with a vacuum pump and see if you can pull a vacuum on the
system first. If its a big leak you will here the hissing where the leak is.
I don't recommend pressurizing the system with anything but R12 so I'm
afraid your going to need a can to test for leaks. Without knowing the
history of the car I am assuming the worst and recommending also changing
the filter/dryer by the right front wheel, pulling a long vacuum on the
system before recharging.
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 04:18:31 -0000
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Storage, changing fluids, etc.
The reason for the change of the brake fluid is that the origional
fill was girling dot 3. It was assumed that that would also be the
replacment fluid. Brake fluid is hygroscopic ie: it absorbs moisture
from the air. If you don't regularly drive the car and heat up the
fluid to drive out the moisture it will corrode the aluminum cylinder
bores. If you go to Castrol "GTLMA" you can probobly go alot longer
than 2 years but it is cheap insurance.
The reason your master cylinder is failing is common. The flush
washed out all of the crud that helped seal the corroded bore. It is
very likely that you will wind up rebuilding all 4 calipers also. If
you have a 5 speed don't forget the clutch fluid which is the same and
subject to the same problems. Many people have gone to silicone or dot
5 but it isn't recommended for several reasons including, water won't
mix with the silicone so if any is in the system it will eat up the
cylinders.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Lynn Metz" <metzlynn@xxxx> wrote:
> Group:
>
> I was just wondering why the owners manual suggests changing the
brake fluid
> so often and why so many list members emphasize this as well? Is
this just
> being extra careful or is it really needed. For example, my daily
driver,
> Firebird, has over 130,000 miles (12 years old)- brake fluid never
changed -
> never any problems. Now, I drained and replaced brake fluid this
summer on
> the DeLorean and now, about 300 miles later, the master is going
out. I
> assume the new fluid was too much for the old rubber in the master.
(Or it
> could be a coincidence)
> Brian 16584
>
______________________________________________________________________
___
> Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
http://www.hotmail.com.
>
> Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at
> http://profiles.msn.com.
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 6
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 04:29:05 -0000
From: "jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx " <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Question on A/C system
Many shops use shop compressed air but the better ones will use
nitrogen. Pressurize the system and then go around with a solution of
soapy water on all of the joints. Listen for hissing at the compresser
and it is not uncommon for a hose to rupture internaly. Check the
input fitting of the condenser coil ( the one in front) Do not run the
system without freon. After finding and fixing the leak you must
replace the dryer and evacuate the system for at least 1/2 hour. I
recommend refilling with R-12. Many of the "drop-in" replacements have
propane or butane in them and you can imagine the excitement you will
have if you have a leak and it should ignite.Although R-12 is
expensive replacing it won't cost that much more considering all of
the other work that will need to be done.At about $20 a pound you only
need less than 3 pounds.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx, "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi all, I was wondering if someone out there with A/C system
> knowledge can give me some advice. The A/C system on my car has
> been "dry" for some time now (don't know how long) where as all the
> freon was out. I am assuming there is a leak somewhere. There was no
> hint of pressure at all when I was taking it apart. Here are my
> questions:
>
> 1. What should I suspect/check on my system that would go bad from
it
> being dry for some time now?
>
> 2. Is the new "legal" freon as cold as the old stuff? I have only
> dealt with the older stuff so I can't compare the two.
>
> 3. Can I check for leaks in the system without charging it with
> freon? I know that there are special UV Dyes out there you can
inject
> into the system and use a black light to track the leak. Can I use
> this without charging the system or do I have to charge it so I can
> run the A/C to find the leak?
>
> Any info would be appreciated, thanks.
>
> Steve
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2000 21:04:26 -0800
From: Henry Breer <hbreer@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Delorean Goodyear ads
Bruce,
As far as I know, the Goodyear ad never appeared in a magazine. It was a
Dealer Display Item. I too am looking for it, but the only one I have
seen on eBay was a year or so ago and it went for more than I was
willing to pay.
Hank Breer
1141
abatt10347@xxxxxxx wrote:
<snip>
> My question is in what magazines was the
> Goodyear ad? I have the other ads and wish to start looking for the Goodyear
> to complete my collection, but have no idea where to start. It (the Goodyear
> ad, for those who do not have SSI), shows JZD leaning on a Delorean, with the
> ad reading "Goodyear. Quality a man can stake his reputation on".
<snip>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 8
Date: Mon, 20 Nov 2000 23:27:47 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Question on A/C system
>Steve,
1. What should I suspect/check on my system that would go bad from it
> being dry for some time now?
If moisture has entered the system there is a high probability that the
compressor needs to be replaced.
>
> 2. Is the new "legal" freon as cold as the old stuff? I have only
> dealt with the older stuff so I can't compare the two.
On average the stock R-12 Freon is colder than the newer R-134. Keep in mind
that you cannot recharge your system with the newer R-134 without
modifications to your AC system
>
> 3. Can I check for leaks in the system without charging it with
> freon? I know that there are special UV Dyes out there you can inject
> into the system and use a black light to track the leak. Can I use
> this without charging the system or do I have to charge it so I can
> run the A/C to find the leak?
Based on your questions you would be better off bringing your DeLorean to an
AC service facility where they have all of the equipment necessary to
perform all of the above. Keep in mind that the DeLorean AC system is a GM
design and can be serviced by any competent repair facility. Just be sure to
include a copy of the AC workshop and parts manual pages when you bring you
"D" in.
>
Also keep in mind that service to the sealed (freon) system requires
government certification.
"We're here to help you"
DMC Help / De Lorean Services / <dmchelp@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Rubano <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, November 20, 2000 12:47 PM
Subject: [DML] Question on A/C system
>
> Any info would be appreciated, thanks.
>
> Steve
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 9
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 00:41:48 -0500
From: "DMC Joe" <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Storage (plus fuel accumulator question)
> QUESTION FOR EXPERTS:
> If this is true, it seems I would prefer to store my DeLorean with the
fuel
> accumulator depressurized. The simple solution is to shut the car off
using the
> inertia switch instead of the key. In theory that would leave the spring
in the
> accumulator uncompressed all winter, and the fuel system depressurized.
>
> Is this a good idea?
>
> Would this extend the life of the accumulator as well as make it easier to
> circulate oil in a dry engine, or might it be harmful to the accumulator,
> engine, or both?
Within a period of no more than 36 to 72 hours the fuel rest pressure will
drop to a level that cause the accumulator to completely depressurize,
therefore no special procedure is necessary when shutting the engine down
prior to storage.
>
>
> > DOORS:
> > Here's one no one says much about. The absolute best thing to do with
the
> > DeLorean in this area would be to store the car with the doors OPEN.
This
> > releases most of the tension from the torsion bar, releases the tension
from
> > the door struts, and releases the tension from the door seals. Of
course NO
> > ONE does this,
>
> Actually, I did do it last winter. Starting with roughly equal doors, I
left my
> driver's door open and my passenger door closed all winter. By spring, my
> passenger's door was a slightly but noticeably slower to open than my
driver's
> door.
>
> However, my next door neighbor teased me so much about the risk of
> squirrels/skunks/water buffalo spending their winter in my DeLorean that I
> probably will not repeat the experiment.
The torsion bar construction prevents any loss in torque during long term
pre-load.
Concerning the struts, it would be better to remove them during the storage
period.
DMC Joe
"We're here to help you"
De Lorean Services / <dmcjoe@xxxxxxx>
Web Site: <www.deloreanservices.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, November 20, 2000 10:30 AM
Subject: Re: [DML] Storage (plus fuel accumulator question)
> David Swingle wrote:
>
>
> QUESTION FOR EXPERTS:
> If this is true, it seems I would prefer to store my DeLorean with the
fuel
> accumulator depressurized. The simple solution is to shut the car off
using the
> inertia switch instead of the key. In theory that would leave the spring
in the
> accumulator uncompressed all winter, and the fuel system depressurized.
>
> Is this a good idea?
>
> Would this extend the life of the accumulator as well as make it easier to
> circulate oil in a dry engine, or might it be harmful to the accumulator,
> engine, or both?
>
>
> > DOORS:
> > Hers's one no one says much about. The absolute best thing to do with
the
> > DeLorean in this area would be to store the car with the doors OPEN.
This
> > releases most of the tension from the torsion bar, releases the tension
from
> > the door struts, and releases the tension from the door seals. Of
course NO
> > ONE does this,
>
> Actually, I did do it last winter. Starting with roughly equal doors, I
left my
> driver's door open and my passenger door closed all winter. By spring, my
> passenger's door was a slightly but noticeably slower to open than my
driver's
> door.
>
> However, my next door neighbor teased me so much about the risk of
> squirrels/skunks/water buffalo spending their winter in my DeLorean that I
> probably will not repeat the experiment.
>
> - Mike Substelny
> DeLorean garaged but not yet in storage, Sta-Bil purchased, but still
hoping for
> one more nice day on the North Coast.
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 10
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 14:31:51 -0600
From: "TMasterLC@xxxxxxx" <tmasterlc@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Variety Car Shows...
Dear Andy and list:
Although the car show circuit is fairly new to me, I did participate in 24 shows this summer and won awards at every one except for a dinky show and one cruise. (I hope to have photos from all shows up on a webpage during the winter). It's a lot of fun (and work) but I probably won't squeeze so many shows in next year.
First of all, go for fun, expect a LOT of attention with a crowd around the D at all times and be prepared to answer a lot of questions about your car! Remember to clean your car spotlessly - inside and out. It's a lot of work detailing a car before a show, but I also enjoy taking advantage of the time to clean during the show when there's nothing else to do!
Choose the category you enter in carefully because the DeLorean fits into many categories. (i.e. stock/original or custom/modified, foreign, or special interest.) The cost to enter can range between $6.00 - $40.00 but most typically $15.00. Car shows normally sponsor some type of charity, so they usually sell raffle tickets for prizes and the registration fees that you'll pay would benefit an organization as well as helping to defray the cost of trophies, etc.
One nice thing about participating in shows is that you'll receive flyers about upcoming local shows or lists for the entire season so you can plan which ones you'd like to attend and get more information about the details in advance. There's only been one time that we were handed an invitation by mistake, and not welcome because our car wasn't 25 years old. All other shows weren't looking for specific year cars and we have always been made to feel welcome to participate. It's especially fun when they ask you to park in front to help draw in a crowd, or they let you park in a special spot that's different than the other cars in a row!
The People's Choice type judging is fine when you know your car is a favorite in the crowd, but the professional judges are knowledgeable and experienced to chose the truly exceptional cars regardless of what might be a popular opinion of the general public. The judges also like to see their sticker somewhere on your car like Show World Productions or International Show Car Association (ISCA), and a fire extinguisher in the car. Sometimes they look for a unique way in which you've displayed your car too, so we're constantly changing or adding to the extras that we display with the D like the JZD autographed owner's manual and a collage of photos from Cleveland 2000! (the visitors love that stuff too!) Talk to the other participants for helpful hints or to the judges themselves to find out what you can improve for future shows. Many times you can get a copy of the judging sheets if you're interested in correcting problems or minor imperfections.
The judges and coordinators at most shows want it to be a good experience for everyone involved so that you'll consider bringing your car back for the next event. They seem to be very polite and fair, and often split up large car classes into smaller categories so more people can walk away with an award for spending their day at a show.
We've met a lot of people to share the fun and enjoyment of our car with. Feel free to e-mail me if you were looking for more specific answers. I think I've said it all except... Good luck and have fun!!!
Cheryl & Ron
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 11
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 04:26:05 -0800
From: "Lynn Metz" <metzlynn@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Question on A/C system
Steve:
First, by checking the archives you find extensive discussion on comparing
the "new" freon to R12. Generally - new stuff is cheap, but a little less
effective. R12 very expensive, but works better.
The worst problem you will encounter in an A/c system which has sat dry is
that the dryer/accumulator will have to be replaced. This does not "go bad"
and leak, but it contains a substance that removes moisture from the system.
Once the system sits dry for a while (because of a leak), the dryer become
"saturated", meaning that it can absorb no more moisture. At this point,
when you run the A/C, this moisture will quickly freeze and the A/C will
stop working. It will seem like the system is low on freon because it is
not cooling, however, it is frozen up. I have seen this many times. (other
cars - not DeLoreans) Mechanics will keep trying to add to a system which is
already full.
The only ways I ever check a system are with a "sniffer" (elctronic
hand-held device that detects freon) or by using the dye you referenced.
Hope this helps
Brian 16584
>From: "Steve Rubano" <srubano@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Hi all, I was wondering if someone out there with A/C system
>knowledge can give me some advice. The A/C system on my car has
>been "dry" for some time now (don't know how long) where as all the
>freon was out. I am assuming there is a leak somewhere. There was no
>hint of pressure at all when I was taking it apart. Here are my
>questions:
>
>1. What should I suspect/check on my system that would go bad from it
>being dry for some time now?
>
>2. Is the new "legal" freon as cold as the old stuff? I have only
>dealt with the older stuff so I can't compare the two.
>
>3. Can I check for leaks in the system without charging it with
>freon? I know that there are special UV Dyes out there you can inject
>into the system and use a black light to track the leak. Can I use
>this without charging the system or do I have to charge it so I can
>run the A/C to find the leak?
_____________________________________________________________________________________
Get more from the Web. FREE MSN Explorer download : http://explorer.msn.com
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 12
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 09:19:28 -0500
From: Watkins Family <watbmv@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: More Storage
It seems that everyone agrees that moisture is bad. So, why would it
not be a good idea to let your car run every week or two? Again, apples
to apples....I let it run a good long time, I don't start it up a for a
few minutes and shut it down right away, that would be insane. Idle
running a car is for keeping the engine oil moving and for moisutre burn
off right? So why would this be bad? The idea of taking it out for a
drive is a good one but is impossible for many of us for numerous
reasons, first being that storage insurance doesn't allow for it.
Secondly the amount of road salt used here in the North is excessive. I
wouldn't dream of exposing my car to it and lastly, in order to get my
three cars in the barn my DeLorean is put in sideways in a back parking
spot that takes about a 15 point turn.
Yes, it does get to -20 or colder here, I, of course, try to avoid
these days to start my car. I leave my drivers side window open and
reach in to open it as the door handles can get very tight. I don't
need a snapped of handle. I think that starting your car is far better
than leaving it sit totally idle for 4-6 months. There are so many
different opinions on this that I guess it comes down to your own
personal preference. I have stored my car the last 2 winters with no
issues of it coming out of storage, my car goes to Rob every year for
work so I know every system is in top peak condition.
New question: to put the car up off it's wheels are jack stands
preferred, if so where should they be placed? Are wood blocks better?
Where would they go? where the jack stand holes are?
Tom
005732 MT
Visit me on the web at:
http://www.geocities.com/outatime81/
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 13
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 08:47:47 -0800
From: "Don Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: oil filters - which one for a D?
I would like to add one technique that has served me well over the years.
Always store an engine after it has been driven to full operating
temperature. A ten mile (or more) drive in the summer is ideal. Starting
an engine cold produces a lot of water as a byproduct of combustion (ever
notice the water running out the tail pipe?) If the engine is not brought
to full temperature so that all this moisture is flashed off, than it will
reside as condensation in the exhaust system and oil. Moisture in the oil
cause the oil to break down and loose its corrosion inhibiting and
lubricating abilities. It must therefore be brought up to temperature over
a long enough period of time to drive off all the moisture absorbed from the
initial startup.
Please note the destructive effect of starting a car up every week or month
but not fully bringing it to temperature. The accumulation of water and
moisture related byproducts will destroy the vehicle despite one's best
intentions. The same is true of the brake fluids, however changing them is
probably the easiest way of getting the moisture out as there is no really
efficient way to heat and flash off the absorbed moisture.
FYI: I have a 30 year old Jaguar XKE that has had the oil changed twice
(every ten years). The oil in it is now ten years old and I just checked
it. It smells and looks like new. If I were to run it for only a few
moments and than check it in a month I am sure the oil would be rancid and
ruined, and the exhaust system well on its way to rusting out.
On a similar note, Fuel also absorbs moisture. It is best to have the fuel
tank as full as possible when storing. Ideal would be to have the fuel up
into the filler neck for the least contact area to the atmosphere. Also the
tank will breath less when full and this will keep down the water
absorption. Stabul (sp?) fuel additive helps combat the ill effects of
modern "oxygenated" fuels, which are quite unstable over time, and will
break down without the added stress of atmospheric moisture.
Hope this experience is helpful. I just cringe when I hear of people
starting their cars every week as a way of keeping them preserved.
Don Ekhoff
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 15:55:09 -0000
From: "Roger Brogren" <rbrogren@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: DMC model
I went into the web site Jan listed and the model looks VERY nice! My
German is a bit rusty (kein Edel-stahl!) but am working on a
translation. The cost is DM 399, DM 300 for German DMC Club members,
DM 100 more for a high luster polished version, all in a display
case. A kit is available for DM 200.
More to come.
Roger Brogren
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 15
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 12:25:44 -0500
From: Mike Substelny <msubstel@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Vegas Winery Drive & Lake Meade Cruise
I was very sorry that I had to miss the Vegas Expo. Patti and I were
particularly looking forward to the "Scenic Drive and Pahrump Winery
Lunch," as well as the Lake Mead cruise.
I am sure someone on the DML must have been there, but so far I have not
seen anything about these events. Would someone please tell your fellow
DMLers about the winery drive, the Lake Mead cruise, and other moments
from the 2000 Expo?
Thanks,
- Mike Substelny
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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 13:42:59 -0800
From: Tamir Ardon <tamir@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Delorean Goodyear ads
The Goodyear ads were used in the Autoweek magazines. These magazines were very
large and made out of newspaper quality. You can view this excellent ad on my site
under the Propaganda section.
Regards,
Tamir
http://www.entermyworld.com
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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 22:06:47 -0000
From: "Robert Rooney" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Idle Speed Regulator Problems.
I'm having a porblem with my idle speed regultor (brand new unit
BTW). When the key is turned to the "ON" position, the idle speed
regultor goes to a full open position constantly running the car @
2500 RPM's. The idle speed switch is working properly, and I've even
manually grounded the connection with no change in the idle. Idle ECU
is recieving power, and all ground connections have been cleaned.
Plug on the regultor does have power on all 3 connections. However,
on the white/slate colored wire for the RPM input on the idle ECU, I
am not able to detect any voltage at all. The wire is connected
properly to the left side of the ignition coil, and the car refuses
to start and run without the wire plugged in. According to the
diagrams for the idle ECU and the ignition ECU both modules use this
same wire. But how does it connect to the idle ECU? Does the wire
split somewhere to feed both units via a direct connection, or does
it enter the ignition ECU first and then loop back to the idle ECU?
In the relay compartment I found 5 white/slate wires connected in a
nutcap. Don't know if they are related, but they appeared to be fine.
Any ideas?
-Robert
vin 6585
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Message: 18
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 14:26:12 -0800
From: "B Benson" <delornut@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: More Storage
I've been storing my DeLorean for 20 years during Minnesotas 'cooler'
months. If the oil has a 1,000 miles or less I leave it. I put the car on
jack stands and put plastic under the car. I close the windows, shut the
doors and turn off the battery. Once, maybe twice , I trickel charge it for
an afternoon. I fill the tank with non-oxygenated fuel and add one can of
Seafoam which acts as a fuel stabilizer and also works at cleaning fuel
sytem parts when I run that tank through the engine. I put the car cover
over it and change the oil when I take it out of storage. I never start it
because idling will never burn all the combustion by- products out of the
engine. You need to drive at the very least, five miles to clear the junk
out. In 20 years I've yet to find a problem.
Bruce Benson
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Message: 19
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 22:22:54 -0000
From: "Robert Rooney" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Question on A/C system
Another item on your A/C system that will probably need to be
replaced is the orifice tube. Our A/C sat dry for quite some time as
well. It ended up that only 3 items on the whole system needed
repairs: Compressor clutch, leak in ac line, & the orifice tube.
After the clutch was replaced and the leak was sealed, the system ran
at a very high pressure. Replaced the orifice tube (which totally
clogged and very nasty looking), and the system ran perfectly fine!
Before the compressor would only cycle on for about 4-5 seconds. Now
it never cycles off because the pressures stay so low.
-Robert
vin 6585
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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 16:40:07 -0600
From: Jim Reeve <ultra@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Who Wants a Backlit Dash? (Again)
Ok, I really thought there would be more interest for this. However, I
have only gotten 2 or 3 responses from people interested in a backlit
dash. I need about 20 people to make this cost effective, So I am
reposting my original message from last week just in case anyone
interested missed it. If I still dont get any responses, I guess I will
simply not be able to do this.
My message from last Thurs. night as follows...
I have recently been taking apart my instrument cluster to
see the total
involvement in making a backlit dash. After finding it to
be a bit more
involved than I hoped for, (and frying an IC on my tach.),
I talked to a
person who has worked with this stuff before. It turns out
that this
person could help me considerably, and end up with a final
product
looking 99% stock. It will also be possible to have
several different
speedometer faces. A stock 85, 140, or 170 will all be
possible.
Metric faces would also be possible if requested. To stay
similar with
the center console, all white lettering will be
illuminated green, and
the orange, red, and blue will illuminate with their
respective colors.
I am also considering illuminating the "DMC" logo on the
left side. And
finally, the white needles will illuminate, in white.
Now here is where all of you come into play. I realize
that some of you
have ordered the digital dash from Dakota Digital for
about $800, and
this is a very similar situation. Due to the initial cost
of making the
custom faces out of special plastic, I would need an
initial order of 20
dashes to make this all possible. If I get 20 orders or
more, the price
would be around $250 dollars. This would be a nice way to
get the dash
to look more modern at a fraction of the cost of an all
digital one, not
to mention your choice of a speedo face. There is one
other catch, this
should be a 99% reversible mod, but you would need to send
me your WHOLE
assembled binnacle to install it. Installation should take
about 1-2
weeks. It would probably take a few months for
development, so
unfortunately it may not be ready before winter storage
season is over.
I ask that anyone who would be interested in this, to
email me
directly. My email is ultra"at"isd.net. Just remember,
this is still
all preliminary, but if I get 20 interested people, there
is a good
chance this will happen.
--
Jim Reeve <Ultra>
'81 DeLorean-#6960
http://www.dmcultra.com
AIM-Ultra2169
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Message: 21
Date: Tue, 21 Nov 2000 23:12:52 -0000
From: "Roger Brogren" <rbrogren@xxxxxxx>
Subject: More on D model from German DMC Club
I have sent an e-mail to the author of the web page for DeLorean
Club - Deutschland, with an inquery if the model can be purchased by
us at their club price. In the meantime, here is a rough translation
of the info on the web page.
Note: I do not claim 100% accuracy on this translation, but it should
give a good idea about the details.
Translation:
"It has taken a long time, but now it is finally here, what we all
have waited for, the DeLorean model is finished. Also, it looks
really sharp!"
Description:
DeLorean DMC 12 1981 #VF0001, Scale 1:43 (Exact T :42,778)
Material Pewter
37 photo etched parts (parts black matte chromed or original chrome)
Body color Stainless steel silver
17 parts body
16 separate parts with decals
Completely detailed interior
including hand made show case
On special order the model can be supplied in different colors, for
example painted in red or black.
Completed modell wit show case Limited edition of 250 399:00 DM
DeLorean club price 300:00 DM
Design & art modell (Hi gloss polished pewter)
Limited edition of 50 499:00 DM
Delorean Club price 400:00 DM
Kit (Building kit, excluding show case) 200:00 DM
End of translation.
The rest of the web pages contain D spare parts and pricing.
The exchange rate today is approximately $0.44, i.e., the cost in US$
for the 300 DM version would be approximately $132 and $176 for
the "Designer version" (assuming that we could by it at the German
DMC price).
As soon as I hear back from the German DMC club I will post any
additional information.
Roger Brogren
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