[DMCForum] Re: 10989

["therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas@xxxxxxxxx>]

Marc is most likely right when he says vacuum leak as being a 
problem. Most likely too, the engine was probably tuned WITH a vacuum 
leak in place. Which means that you'll need to re-tune the engine, 
once you get it fixed. It's a pain, but the motor then gets better 
milage, and outputs more power.

As for the idle speed, do the RPMs decrease to normal when you tap 
the gas pedal? If so, it may be a linkage adjustment, for the arm 
that triggers the Idle Speed Motor, and the vacuum solenoid. Which 
brings me to your next question...

Yes, RPMs affect engine spark. When the engine is @ Idle, there is a 
solenoid which activates, and cuts off engine vacuum to the 
electrical distributor, to prevent any spark advance. Once the gas 
pedal in depressed, and the solenoid is deavtivated, then spark 
advance occurs as the RPMs & vacuum increase.

My advice is to start with replacing ALL rubber hoses, and vacuum 
lines. It's cheap, the hoses are available at ANY parts store, and 
you KNOW that it needs to be done. From there, you could also try 
spritzing a bit of starter fluid sparingly around the intake manifold 
joints, rubber hoses, valve covers, and fuel injector seals. If the 
engine revs, you've found the vacuum leak.

But before you go tuning an engine, you've got to first ensure that 
it's components are up to the job, and are in proper order.

-Robert



--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, mike clemens <rmclemns@xxxx> wrote:
>
> Josh's car, moving under it's own power was good, but
> not near as good as seeing the smiles on his and
> Cousin Ben's faces when they returned from their spin
> around the block.  I could have keeled over with a
> heart attack and they would have kept on grinning and
> jiving.
> 
> To expound on his problems---when we got it started,
> idle was around 2000 rpm and if you tried to open the
> throttle at all, it would hesitate and try to quit. 
> Let off the gas and it would stabilize at 2000 rpm
> again.  After we got it warmed up, rpm's leveled out
> at 2500 rpm, but the throttle worked without much
> hesitation.  Any ideas on this high idle problem??
> 
> Second problem----we bled the clutch as per all the
> advice given by the Forum members and it appeared to
> work.  Once we got it running, we couldn't get it into
> gear without pumping the clutch five or six times,
> then it would go into reverse and all gears.
> After running a while, we could not get it to shift
> into reverse at all.  I'm thinking he's got bad seals
> in either the master cylinder or the slave cylinder,
> but not sure which, that is allowing the pressure to
> bleed down.  Any ideas on this??
> 
> Last question---does the RPM relay have any control
> (even remotely) over the spark put out by the coil?? 
> I'm 99% sure his relay is bad (intermitant open) and
> while trouble shooting, I noticed no spark from the
> coil.
> 
> I really appreciate all the help and encourgement you
> folks have given in this little quest.  Josh, I know,
> is thrilled!!
> 
> Mike      TPS      1630
> 
> PS:  See Lauren, I told you we'd get it going, and he
> still wants to hug me, but that ain't gonna happen
> this lifetime. :-)
> 
> 
> 
> --- Josh Porter <joshp1986@xxxx> wrote:
> 
> > I was wanting to let everyone know about my good
> > news. I drove my car 
> > down to the end of the street on it's own and it was
> > good. It still 
> > needs lots of work but it is by far the best day to
> > date. There is a 
> > small problem. My rpm is still at 2500, there is
> > smothing else that I 
> > am suppossed to ask but I can't remember. Mike will
> > be able to tell 
> > you. 
> > 
> > I'm telling you it was GREAT!!! I just wich Mike
> > would have gone with 
> > me, he deserves to drive it more than to tell you
> > the truth, but for 
> > some reason he won't. Maybe it's because it is a
> > MANuall:)
> > 
> > Josh
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> 
> 
> 
>             
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