[DMCForum] Re: A simple task (Brake Bleeder Screws)

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

It's the road salt. Zap them with a plumber's torch (MAPP Gas if you
have it) and they should spin right out. Parts houses sell individual
bleeder screws, so always replace them with new ones. Don't forget to
flush out the fluid you heated with the torch.

Also, replace the nuts to your flex lines with brass. Will make future
flex line replacements much easier. You may discover your original
steel nuts and the flex line have rusted too badly even for heat to
help (steel hydraulic nuts are very soft and round over very easily).
Simply cut them off, slip on brass ones, and re-flare. In theory
you're supposed to double flare, but I've never had any problem with
single ones.

Also replace the nuts to your master cylinder with brass. Car
companies like to use a 1/4" fitting with 3/16" line to differentiate
front from rear -- simply make a flared bushing from a scrap piece of
1/4" tubing to fill out the nut.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Marc Levy <malevy_nj@xxxx> wrote:
> Heck, I even put a drop on brake bleeder screws
> because those things ALWAYS get stuck.
> 
> I have had the torque discussion with my "mechanical
> engineer" friend... Who buys Never-Seize by the
> gallon.  I forgot the details, but he convinced me
> that the variation in torque was minimal
> (insignificant).
> 
> A while back there was a discussion on the DML with
> the "Toby-Bolts" on wet vs dry.  IIRC, Toby also said
> using Never-Seize was safe.
> 
> For high-heat applications, use the copper stuff.
> (Exhaust bolts, mostly).
> 
> 
> --- cruznmd <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> 
> > You know, I thought of this a long time ago, but
> > everyone raised 
> > hell with me saying it was unsafe and that the
> > torque values would 
> > be wrong etc.....
> > 
> > Screw it. I'm using it now.
> > 
> > Rich
> >
> 
> 
>             
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