> I would use Houston's fuel tank rebuilt "kit" It includes
all the
hoses, clamps, pump, pickup screen, the infamous bendy pick
up hose
Me too. I dont go for the tuna fish can baffle stuff.
> (reinforce it with a spring from home depot or Lowes).
I did this and regret it. It could only possibly help soft
original fuel lines which should be replaced anyway. The
newer rubber is different and doesn't need this kind of
support. And BTW, neither did the original rubber when it
was new and not exposed to the new chemicals in fuel. I
prefer Ken K's products where rubber is concerned. I
believe that his version of the twisty-fuel line is made of
the best material available (sold by PJ Grady.) I do not
know much about the one that DMCH sells & how it compares
other than it is less money and drove the price of Ken's
down a bit.
As for the high-pressure fuel lines, I do not like the
variety that is held on with hose clamps. I think this is
the one that DMCH sells. I prefer the melted-on variety
like what PJ Grady sells (orange) or what Don Steger sells
(black). But I must warn you that it takes some practice &
talent to put these things on without phuque-ups. If you
aren't up to it then send your fittings off to have the
hoses put on or settle for the hose clamp variety.
A cool trick I found for pressing the melt-on lines on is to
hold the hose in a copper tubing flair tool. This is a jig
with several pipe sizes in it. You clamp the pipe in it,
and a twirl cone bit wallows the inside of the pipe making a
flare. Just use the jig that is made to hold the copper
tubing, and clamp it around the high-pressure line. I think
the 5/8" size is the one that fits best. It holds so well
that you may be able to press it on the barb without any
heat at all. Don said that he puts them on with a little
white lithium grease and no heat (if I remember correctly.)
I told him about the copper tube flair tool, and he really
liked that idea. I want to find out if he tried it yet.
> Pull the baffle out, clean it thoroughly,
even go as far to scrub it clean with a toothbrush to remove
all
varnish.
Yep, I did this. Acetone is the best thing for it --
commonly available at autoparts stores, but dont expect the
parts counter guys to know what it is.
> Take some clean gas on a white rag and wipe the tank to
check for ANY debris,
Paper towels suck for this. Use red shop rags. They have
an abrasive quality that works well. And acetone works
better than gas. Dealing with a tank full of flammable
vapors is really hazardous. Keep your cell phone away. To
dry all the acetone out of a tank, I just put it in the sun
for a few minutes. I could see all the vapors quickly rise
out.
> I'd probably go with Houston's newer
style pump as it comes with a 1 year warranty unlike the NOS
setup.
What newer style? Do they have something better than stock?
Or are you just referring to the different style of check
valve as used on later VINs?
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