RE: [DMCForum] Ladies and gentlemen, my (repairable?) evaporator

[Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

I'm not sure how the end got twisted. My guess is that it was rusted and
prior AC work twisted the piece and age caused it to eventually break.

The screen that was on mine was stapled in place? Did you find this to be
the case with yours? I thought this was done by a prior owner, along with
the black fecal material encasing the pipes.

I'm going to take the unit to a hydraulic shop and get their advice on its
repair. I will also call Classic Auto and see if they'll let me send it to
them for repair. If that doesn't work out, I'm not averse to putting the
newer design (i.e. yours) in because I don't drive the car too terribly much
in the summer and it don't get quite as hot in Greenville as it does in
Tampa.

Finally: where can I score some of the foam that goes on the flaps? 

-----Original Message-----
From: Walter Coe [mailto:Whalt@xxxxxxx] 
Sent: Monday, April 26, 2004 11:50 AM
To: DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DMCForum] Ladies and gentlemen, my (repairable?) evaporator

> So Walt, you see the busted end.

Yeah, I suppose it started with a crease/dent and someone
just said, "WTF" and ripped it out of there?

Mine was in a similar situation from the previous owner.
The smaller pipe was banana-shaped, and the larger pipe had
a crease/crack where it looked like someone grabbed it with
channel-lock pliers.  I had the straight sections replaced.
Here's a link to a photo of it:
http://www.dmcforum.org/images/waltevaporator.jpg
If you look close, you can see the repair.

I did not reuse the SS screen mesh.  It's on the output side
of the evaporator where it only holds junk that causes rot.

The black shit is just that.  WD-40 cleans it off.  I bought
more of it at NAPA (comes in a roll), but I didn't use it.
It really should have something around the pipes to seal the
opening in the fire wall, but black goo isn't the answer.

Classic Auto A/C Manufacturing in Tampa did the repair on
mine.  I can't remember what it cost.  I think it was just
over $100.  That included flushing, pressure testing and a
few other things to justify the price.  If you call this
place, be sure to ask them (ask for Al) if they can sell you
a new one.

> but based on how much of a pain in the ass it is to get
out, it is worth
running the risk to stick a repaired evaporator back in.

That depends on how much a replacement costs.  At the time I
repaired mine, aluminum replacements were not available.
Now they are.

For a DIY repair, you could probably get a new pipe end from
a junk yard -- it's a common size.  I don't know where to
get an aluminum sleeve.

Now is a good time to use Naval Jelly to clean all the rust
off of the flapper doors, repaint, replace foam, etc.

Walt



 
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