[DMCForum] Re: Rich A's timing scale.

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Scale could be a problem. Surprisingly little movement translates into
major timing effect. Like my harmonic balancers -- probably haven't
moved more than fraction of inches, yet block pointers now useless.

Still, time shouldn't be too far retarded if starter motor doesn't
have to spin ever living mess out of engine before it catches.

Try timing by ear Martin's way (advance until valves clatter, then
back off) and compare to current reading. If it's more than 4 or 5
degrees your spark probably is in fact retarded.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> Um...I monkeyed with it. It was an accident. However, there was an
> outline where it was attached so it was easy to line up.
> 
> It is very easy to start.
> 
> 
> --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx> wrote:
> > Is it possible a PO monkeyed with timing scale attached to block? Try
> > timing it by ear.
> > 
> > How hard is car to start?
> > 
> > Bill Robertson
> > #5939
> > 
> > >--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> > > Bill,
> > > 
> > > The problem is not limited to 5th. I have an overall lack of
power. A
> > > shallow acceleration curve from 0 MPH--->.
> > > 
> > > Advance is working. I've checked this repeatedly. There is NO
advance
> > > at idle.
> > > 
> > > All plug wires check sat. All plugs show proper wear. Block
> > > temperature is nominal.
> > > 
> > > I have never -had- an A/C belt on the car. Exhaust pressure is
normal
> > > compared to other DeLoreans. No glowing parts.
> > > 
> > > All fuel system components are new. I have not checked for drooling
> > > injectors because they are new. I guess I could.
> > > 
> > > I have not done a compression check since I put the engine back
> > > together. I suppose I could do that too.
> > > 
> > > Martin,
> > > 
> > > Freq valve did have bad connection. I have fixed this and it works
> > > correctly now. I hear it all the time. Unfortunately I don't
have a CO
> > > gas analyzer so I'm doing the dwell method. Perhaps I should pay a
> > > visit to Dave S. I think he has 3 analyzers.
> > > 
> > > John,
> > > 
> > > It does sort of seem (to me) to be a lean condition. The car idles
> > > great and starts easily but....
> > > 
> > > Keep 'em coming guys.
> > > 
> > > Rich
> > > 
> > > --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx>
> wrote:
> > > > Are you saying problem limited to 5th gear? (Reads as if
floored in
> > > > 5th). That's when my predetonation showed up -- lugging in 5th
> -- and
> > > > you remember can of worms that discussion opened... Is
probably too
> > > > much to expect 6000 RPM in 5th, but you should be able to pass
4000.
> > > > 
> > > > How does car behave gears 1-4?
> > > > 
> > > > Ensure centrifugal advance working. That's what picks up slack
when
> > > > vacuum drops (wide open throttle).
> > > > 
> > > > *ENSURE* no spark advance at idle. In early ownership tried
> attaching
> > > > mine to what I thought was ported vacuum (have no cut off
solenoid,
> > > > nor a microswitch to drive one. PO just left diaphragm loose).
> In fact
> > > > was full manifold vacuum, albeit through extremely small orifice.
> > > > Totally killed performance -- 10-13 degrees at idle was actually
> under
> > > > full advance. During acceleration ignition time surely jumped
> > AFTER TDC.
> > > > 
> > > > Do a compression test. My experience has been PRV can lose
cylinders
> > > > with little noticeable effect on engine behavior (doesn't stumble.
> > > > Will rock & roll quite a bit more if you lose whole bank). Yet I
> still
> > > > passed traffic on 3 cylinders after SEDOC. You'd think CO2
> > > > measurements would pick up dead cylinders (smell horribly
> rich)... Is
> > > > block temperature COOLER than normal? 
> > > > 
> > > > Ensure all plug wires in fact intact. My #1 is home made
replacement
> > > > for fatigue cracked wire (less than one year old!), probably
during
> > > > intake manifold work before I re-routed wiring harness. First time
> > > > Louie drove my car was as PRV-5.
> > > > 
> > > > Ensure no injectors dribbling liquid fuel. Think Walt Coe has had
> > > > problems with this. 
> > > > 
> > > > Check for exhaust obstruction. How much pressure do you feel from
> > > > muffler tips? Is system glowing at all?
> > > > 
> > > > Try running without A/C belt -- compressor or idler pulley
bearings
> > > > may be DOA and putting up resistance. Drop alternator belt and
check
> > > > for free movement of it and water pump.
> > > > 
> > > > Bill Robertson
> > > > #5939
> > > > 
> > > > >--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> > > > > All right. It turns out I'm NOT going to Las Vegas to attend a 
> > > > > wedding this weekend. This give me a little extra free time.
> > > > > 
> > > > > Here's the issue I want to work on:
> > > > > 
> > > > > I am STILL missing too much horsepower. I have a shallow
> > acceleration 
> > > > > curve. I can get the car beyond 4000 RPMS but it takes quite a
> > while.
> > > > > I realize that 5th gear is NOT for passing but on relatively
> > shallow 
> > > > > grades, I can barely maintain speed by flooring it.
> > > > > I have driven Mike Cohee's car so I know this isn't my
> imagination.
> > > > > 
> > > > > I have:
> > > > > 
> > > > > 1. All new fuel components.
> > > > > 2. All new ignition components.
> > > > > 3. Eliminated all the vacuum leaks I could find.
> > > > > 4. Verified the timing & that ignition advance functions
> correctly.
> > > > > 5. Set the CO screw to match Mike's setting (and the manual)
> > > > > 6. Verified vacuum hose routing IAW the diagram in the engine
> cover.
> > > > > 
> > > > > I am missing a functional WOT microswitch but this is not the
> sole 
> > > > > cause of my problem. I intend to get into the evap canister
> area to 
> > > > > check for more vacuum leaks.
> > > > > 
> > > > > Your suggestions are welcome. Thanks,
> > > > > 
> > > > > Rich

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