Is it possible a PO monkeyed with timing scale attached to block? Try timing it by ear. How hard is car to start? Bill Robertson #5939 >--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote: > Bill, > > The problem is not limited to 5th. I have an overall lack of power. A > shallow acceleration curve from 0 MPH--->. > > Advance is working. I've checked this repeatedly. There is NO advance > at idle. > > All plug wires check sat. All plugs show proper wear. Block > temperature is nominal. > > I have never -had- an A/C belt on the car. Exhaust pressure is normal > compared to other DeLoreans. No glowing parts. > > All fuel system components are new. I have not checked for drooling > injectors because they are new. I guess I could. > > I have not done a compression check since I put the engine back > together. I suppose I could do that too. > > Martin, > > Freq valve did have bad connection. I have fixed this and it works > correctly now. I hear it all the time. Unfortunately I don't have a CO > gas analyzer so I'm doing the dwell method. Perhaps I should pay a > visit to Dave S. I think he has 3 analyzers. > > John, > > It does sort of seem (to me) to be a lean condition. The car idles > great and starts easily but.... > > Keep 'em coming guys. > > Rich > > --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx> wrote: > > Are you saying problem limited to 5th gear? (Reads as if floored in > > 5th). That's when my predetonation showed up -- lugging in 5th -- and > > you remember can of worms that discussion opened... Is probably too > > much to expect 6000 RPM in 5th, but you should be able to pass 4000. > > > > How does car behave gears 1-4? > > > > Ensure centrifugal advance working. That's what picks up slack when > > vacuum drops (wide open throttle). > > > > *ENSURE* no spark advance at idle. In early ownership tried attaching > > mine to what I thought was ported vacuum (have no cut off solenoid, > > nor a microswitch to drive one. PO just left diaphragm loose). In fact > > was full manifold vacuum, albeit through extremely small orifice. > > Totally killed performance -- 10-13 degrees at idle was actually under > > full advance. During acceleration ignition time surely jumped AFTER TDC. > > > > Do a compression test. My experience has been PRV can lose cylinders > > with little noticeable effect on engine behavior (doesn't stumble. > > Will rock & roll quite a bit more if you lose whole bank). Yet I still > > passed traffic on 3 cylinders after SEDOC. You'd think CO2 > > measurements would pick up dead cylinders (smell horribly rich)... Is > > block temperature COOLER than normal? > > > > Ensure all plug wires in fact intact. My #1 is home made replacement > > for fatigue cracked wire (less than one year old!), probably during > > intake manifold work before I re-routed wiring harness. First time > > Louie drove my car was as PRV-5. > > > > Ensure no injectors dribbling liquid fuel. Think Walt Coe has had > > problems with this. > > > > Check for exhaust obstruction. How much pressure do you feel from > > muffler tips? Is system glowing at all? > > > > Try running without A/C belt -- compressor or idler pulley bearings > > may be DOA and putting up resistance. Drop alternator belt and check > > for free movement of it and water pump. > > > > Bill Robertson > > #5939 > > > > >--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote: > > > All right. It turns out I'm NOT going to Las Vegas to attend a > > > wedding this weekend. This give me a little extra free time. > > > > > > Here's the issue I want to work on: > > > > > > I am STILL missing too much horsepower. I have a shallow acceleration > > > curve. I can get the car beyond 4000 RPMS but it takes quite a while. > > > I realize that 5th gear is NOT for passing but on relatively shallow > > > grades, I can barely maintain speed by flooring it. > > > I have driven Mike Cohee's car so I know this isn't my imagination. > > > > > > I have: > > > > > > 1. All new fuel components. > > > 2. All new ignition components. > > > 3. Eliminated all the vacuum leaks I could find. > > > 4. Verified the timing & that ignition advance functions correctly. > > > 5. Set the CO screw to match Mike's setting (and the manual) > > > 6. Verified vacuum hose routing IAW the diagram in the engine cover. > > > > > > I am missing a functional WOT microswitch but this is not the sole > > > cause of my problem. I intend to get into the evap canister area to > > > check for more vacuum leaks. > > > > > > Your suggestions are welcome. Thanks, > > > > > > Rich Yahoo! 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