Andrew, Try running a ground wire from the ground connection on the frame
to
the transmission. If that doesn't help then check the wires on and around
the starter solenoid. As the diagram shows going backwards, the positive
wires that feed the main relay and aux relay come from the alternator and
then back to the solenoid and to the battery.
John Hervey
-----Original Message-----
From: Andrew [mailto:aos+yahoo@xxxxxxxx]
Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2003 12:34 PM
To: DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DMCForum] Re: air conditioning related overheating
On Thu, 23 Oct 2003, content22207 wrote:
> Fan problem can be masked by air forced over radiator while moving.
Hi Bill.
I'm a little leery of the fans myself. One of them is 22 years old.
The
other is almost new (lost an original about a year ago--last time I had
an
overheating problem).
Every time I've checked, both fans have been working, but I've never had
the opportunity to check when I'm actually experiencing a problem. I'm
always in traffic somewhere, so it's not the best time to get out and
start sticking my hands under the car. :)
> Start at otterstat and move forward:
> - Ensure fuse 5 good
> - Jump otterstat
> - Ensure whatever's in fan relay socket has closed
> - Check for voltage through circuit breaker
> - Ensure whatever's in fan fail socket is routing to each fan (circuit
> splits here)
> - Check for voltage at fans themselves
> - Check for good grounds after fans
All good things to do. This procedure is on my list of things to play
with over the weekend.
I think the biggest challenge here is going to be the fact that this
problem is really sporadic. I noticed it the first time the day we
installed a new AC compressor, but then no more problem for several
weeks.
It's happened two more times, separated by about a week. It seems like
I
can drive around with no apparent cooling system distress and then all
of
a sudden it pops up.
I wonder if maybe the apparent relationship between the AC and the
problem
*is* electrical... One of those fans is 22 years old... Perhaps it's
quitting under low voltage when it's really hot (certainly going to
happen
at idle on a hot day with the AC turned on) and then turning the AC off
gives it enough of a voltage spike that it starts spinning again. Seems
plausible.
I'm tempted to pick up a $30 webcam and duct tape it up under the car
and
get a friend to sit in the car with a notebook computer and just watch
the
fans. You never know.
> If fans spin like this but you're losing on the road check for:
> - Bad otterstat
> - Right side up otterstat (traps air)
Would either one of these matter if I've got the AC turned on? Aren't
the
cooling fans on whenever the AC is on?
> Ensure ALL cooling system hoses are fresh. Are too many DeLo's running
> around with questionable ones. Don't overlook hoses and O rings under
> intake manifold.
Should be no problem here. I didn't mention before that this is a 197
horsepower DMCH crate engine with about 3000 miles on it. It's got
pretty
fresh hoses. Some of them are actually Samco silicone hoses, so I know
they're good.
> If you don't have self bleeder under thermostat housing, highly
> recommend installing one. Ensure bleeders intact in heater core supply
> line and radiator return line.
I had one on my old engine, and when I upgraded to the 197, DMCH didn't
move it to the new engine. They said they don't like those (although
I'm
honestly not sure why). They gave me back all the parts, though, and
said
"put it on yourself if you want it," so I can certainly put it back. I
had no problems with the self-bleeder on my old engine.
> Is very bad to overheat an aluminum engine, especially one with as
> many seals as ours.
Yeah, and I've gotten it pretty hot twice now, which I really hate,
because it's a brand new engine. I've never hit the top of the
temperatuge gauge, though, and never boiled over, so I'm probably still
okay.
I noticed something today after I got home and stopped in the garage.
My
temp gauge was a little high, but nothing extaordinary. Maybe 5 mm
above
the the normal line. As I sat in the garage, I cycled the AC on and off
a
few times and noticed that when the compressor clutch engaged, the temp
gauge would *immediately* jump up 5 mm above the line and when the
clutch
disengaged, it would *immediately* jump down to the normal line. I
don't
care what kind of heat load the AC is putting on the system. No way is
the temperature changing that fast. This leads me to wonder if I might
even be seeing electrical gremlins in the gauge rather than actual
overheating. Maybe I should a remote temperature probe on the block and
start monitoring directly.
-andrew
#4115
Houston TX
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