[DMCForum] Stud extraction among other Volvos
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[DMCForum] Stud extraction among other Volvos



I found this document:

http://www.swedishbricks.net/700900FAQ/Exhaust1.html

Here's the important part ------------

Exhaust Manifold Gasket & Studs Replacement. [See the section Turbo:
Broken
Turbo Exhaust Stud]  [Query:] My 744ti currently has 184,000k mi. It is
leaking a little at the exhaust manifold so it is time to replace the
gasket. I have noticed that it looks like it is the original gasket. I am
thinking about replacing the studs and the on the head when the gasket is
replaced. Is this a good idea or am I wasting my money. I want to do the
job
right from the beginning. 
Applying Penetrants.  [Response 1: Onkel Udo] You might want to spray the
studs w/apenetrating oil repeatedly for the preceding days.  When you
reassemble, use antiseize compound on the new studs and coat the exposed
areas with a silicone spray or a grease of some type.  There is nothing
more
annoying than trying to remove rusted-in-place nuts on exhaust flanges
knowing that at least one stud is going to shear off no matter what you
do. 

Using Heat.  [Response 2: Don Foster] If the original studs appear
"eroded"
(rusted away) and you think you can remove them without snapping even one,
then new studs would be a cheap investment. I dearly love my oxy-acetylene
torch. Every time I use it, I kiss it. You might also consider replacing
the
big O-ring in the oil cooler adapter at the same time -- they age, dry
out,
crack, and start leaking at about the 10-year point with your mileage, and
are a B*ITCH to get to -- but with the turbo out, the area's wide open,
and
access is much easier. 

In the Event of a Broken Exhaust Manifold Stud.   [Query:]  How do I
remove
a broken exhaust manifold stud, broken off below the surface.   [Response:
Paul Seminara] Got a right angle reversible drill? Got a moto or air
grinder
tool? Got some diamond bits?  Got a locking collar type stud remover? Got
the appropriate size left hand cobalt drill bit? Got the appropriate drill
and tap?  With the above tools it's actually not that bad (BTDT). 
Start with the left hand drill bit (smaller than the stud in question,
correct size for stud remover) with the drill in "R". Maybe the stud will
come out maybe not. If not give the stud remover a shot. DO NOT, I REPEAT
DO
NOT EVEN THINK OF USING AN EASY OUT. 
If the stud remover fails or doesn't cut it you must go into full dentist
mode with your high speed tool and diamond bits. Just follow the stud and
don't go outside the envelope. When most is gone simply drill the hole to
the correct size for the tap. Clean hole. Tap, clean and insert stud.
Done. 
[Cautionary Note] I have fixed broken head studs three times before, on
different cars.  On all of them I pulled the head and used a drill press
and
"easy-out" to remove the stud, also lots of heat.  You can buy an
easy-out/drillbit set at most autparts and machinist places.  The drill
press ensures an accurate hole (remember, the head is softer than the
bolt;
you don't want to miss!)  It was pretty easy. 

Removing a Broken Stud with a Right-Angle Drill.  [Tip: Bob Mohr] Been
there, done that.  A right angle drill will work just fine. I'd suggest
using a diamond bit in a Dremel rotary tool to put a nice, centered
starting
"dimple" in the middle of the broken stud to prevent the bit from walking
once you start. You shouldn't have to buy a special diamond tipped drill
bit. I went down to the local industrial supply and purchased a cobalt bit
that went through that old stud like a hot knife through butter. Have a
bottle of cutting oil nearby and squirt a little in the hole every quarter
inch or so to cool the bit and flush out the shavings. I ended up drilling
it out oversized and installed a helicoil. It worked great. 
   Another tip if you don't have a right angled drill. I used one of those
fiberglass reinforced cutoff wheels in a dremel to reduce the length of my
cobalt drill bit. You have to be careful chucking the drill bit, as it's
tough to get it in straight. Cutting down the drill bit gives you just
enough clearance to get a straight shot at most of the studs with a plain
jane 1/4" drill. 
  DANGER, DANGER, DANGER! Do not attempt to drill a hole in the stud and
use
an extractor/easy out. The extractor can and probably will break off in
the
hole. Then, your available options are reduced to pulling the engine and
having a machine shop mill out the extractor/old stud or spending 24 hours
and a dozen diamond bits to hog out the broken extractor millimeter by
millimeter. It ain't fun! Both Seminara and I both went through this
torture!   [Tip 2: Dick Riess] Have done it with the 90 degree drill,
unfortunately w/o diamond bits and kinda made a mess, but my machine shop
friend let me use his Time Cert outfit to fix it. Evidently the Time Cert
is
used extensively on hopping up the old aluminum VW engines. They just
don't
come out. So if you mess up the threads, there is still hope.  BTW, I am
going to have to get some of those diamond bits from Paul---they sound
like
a life saver and you can count on needing them eventually. 

Replace All with Stainless.  [Response 3:  John B ] wouldn't fix the stud
problem if it's not a problem.   OTOH, if you break one stud in the
process,
might as well replace them all.   I think IPD has a stainless steel
stud/bolt kit? 

Turbo Notes.  When you pull out the manifold/turbo, then's the time to
replace the turbo/tube and tube/block gasket and O-ring.  Even if you
don't
pull the entire manifold/turbo out to replace the exhaust gasket (best
case)
the turbo oil tube is a lot easier to reseal with the manifold loosened
(and
the two bolts holding it onto the turbo removed).   How's your 02 sensor?
It's easy to get to with the manifold out. 

Painting the Manifold. [Tip from Tom Irwin]  Don't paint your exhaust
manifolds, even with hi-temp paint, no matter HOW COOL it looks! The paint
burns off under the bolt heads and relieves bolt compression. Almost ALL
were under torque spec. [Editor] Probably OK to paint IF you don't paint
under the bolt heads. 



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