> Does anyone out there know a way to separate the tie rod end > from the knuckle without causing damage??? I have done it successfully with several cars, and each time I start another I try a different separating tool with no success. I don't like the pickle forks because those might damage the joint (my opinion, not fact). If you try a pickle fork then apply your hammering forces parallel with the steering arm so that you don't bend it. Here is what works every time for me: Buy some extra nuts that fit the top of the tie-rod ends. 3/8"-24 (I thought it would be metric, but no. This is a common off-the-shelf size at most auto parts stores.) Remove the original nut. Screw two new nuts on the end of the threads such that the top nut is half-way on and the nut behind it is backing up the top nut giving support. Then hit it with a brass hammer (or steel if you don't have brass) while supporting the bottom of the arm with something very heavy such as the end of a 5 or 10lb sledge hammer or body dolly. The nuts protect the threads, and the sledge gives the arm inertia to stop it from flexing/absorbing the shock. I have only damaged the threads of a tie-rod end once before doing this, and that was minor. I just wasn't being careful. I then used a die to chase the threads on the end a little to fix it. Now prepare yourself for another unexpected little problem: When you try to put the nuts back on, the shaft of the tie-rod end may just spin in there stopping you from getting it tight. The main problem is using the original self-locking nuts since those have a lot of friction going on. The cure: Thread a new plain nut on there and tighten until the shaft spins. Then thread two more nuts on the end and jamb them together. Now you can hold the jamb nuts with a wrench to stop the shaft from spinning while you tighten the bottom nut. This is assuming that your nuts are thin enough and/or the shaft is long enough. Damn this sounds phallic. Otherwise beat the thing back using a block of wood, brass hammer and a weight to stop the arm from flexing. Once you have the plain bottom nut tight then you can take it off and put the original self-locking nut back on or just put another new nut on there as a jamb nut. I prefer a jamb nut. While I have the boot off the tie-rod end, I like to fill it with wheel bearing grease. This might help to lube the joint and also keep water out. Walt ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ---------------------~--> Make Money Online Auctions! Make $500.00 or We Will Give You Thirty Dollars for Trying! http://us.click.yahoo.com/yMx78A/fNtFAA/i5gGAA/HliolB/TM ---------------------------------------------------------------------~-> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: DMCForum-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
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