 
[DMCForum] Re: Torsion bar adjustment
    
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[DMCForum] Re: Torsion bar adjustment
- From: "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe@xxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2005 03:45:50 -0000
The lift struts don't need to be removed, but you do need to prop the 
door.
You only need to remove the strut if you want to do the dumb 2-3 inch 
hang test. (useles)You just adjust the doors till they are how you 
like them.
That way you can make adjustments, and then see the results quickly, 
then decide if you want to go another spline, or back off one.
Speaking from 36 doors me & Shannon have adjusted.
-Joe
\
--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Ryan Wright <ryanpwright@xxxx> wrote:
>
> Thanks Greg.
> 
> Do the lift struts need to be removed?
> 
> -Ryan
> 
> On 10/11/05, timnagin <timnagin@xxxx> wrote:
> > Ryan,
> >
> > It's not hard to do at all.  I have the plans somewhere to build 
the jig but
> > can't find them right now.
> >
> > I bought an extendible door prop from Northern Tools.  If the 
following link
> > doesn't work then search on "cargo bar."
> >
> > 
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?
storeId
> > =6970&productId=12114&R=12114
> >
> > The bar needs to be placed between the door and the sill plate, 
not the
> > ground.  This is easier to do with the louvers and engine cover 
off of the
> > car.  I used a breaker bar and two extensions, which I think are 
about two
> > feet long each.
> >
> > Two guys can do it but three would be better.  Check the grooved 
end of your
> > torsion bar to make sure it isn't mushroomed out.
> >
> > Wait, grooved?  Mushroom?  This ain't no 70's party! ;)
> >
> > This wasn't very hard for us to do and I have done this a few 
times.  Before
> > you do anything, use a Sharpie to draw a line across the end of 
the torsion
> > bar and plate so you have a beginning reference point.
> >
> > I hope that made sense, kinda tired here.
> >
> > Greg
> >
>
  
  
  
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