[DMCForum] Re: Water pump removed...

["mw98gt" <mw98gt@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

The major service kit comes with a new coil wire, but I do not 
understand why it isnt a nology one.  It just seems like a factory 
replacement.  As for the cruise control I guess I will just have to 
do a major diagnostic.  I hate working under the dash!

I am going to order the crush washer kit from hervey along with the 
bleeder upgrade a new oil pressure sending he sells since you said 
the one I have is basically a dummy sender.  I am also going to get 
his eyebrow bars, although I am unsure how those install.

I guess I am going to order the silicone hoses from PJ grady, I 
definetely dont want any leakage.

As for voting libertarian, I think I will just stick with the 
natural law party. j/k

Misha

--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> > Toby's kit came with the gasket, is that all I need
> to make a proper seal, or do I need some liquid too?
> 
> I say do like Mark and use silicone RTV or non-hardening
> Permatex Form-A-Gasket.  I think it is important to fill the
> crevices where coolant can become stagnant.  That seems to
> be where most of the corrosion takes place.
> 
> > Walt, what wre you saying about the rubber hoses needing
> to set,
> should i try to fine the y pipe hose and heater hose in
> silicone to
> be safe?  Is this what you have been trying to tell me?
> 
> Clamped connections on rubber hoses tend to loosen after the
> first few hundred miles of driving.  So it is important to
> snug them up after a while.  Small coolant leaks become
> corrosive.  Are you familiar with those spring-loaded hose
> clamps that come OEM on several makes of cars?  The reason
> for those is that they dont loosen up on rubber hoses.  So
> in places where you cant use silicone hose, I recommend
> spring-loaded clamps.  And where possible, orient all
> worm-gear hose clamps so that you can get a
> screwdriver/nutdriver on them if you have to.  This is
> another reason to eliminate the steel heater hose in the
> valley-of-death.  It is another clamp that is hard to snug.
> 
> > The intake ports on the heads have a lot of carbon build
> up, should
> I clean that up or it doesnt really matter?
> 
> It doesn't really matter.  I used a bunch of Brake-Kleen &
> intake manifold cleaner with a tooth brush to clean mine up.
> But I was just being anal.  Be careful that you dont clean
> out too many brain cells breathing that stuff. ;-)
> 
> > I have the major engine service kit, most seems easy
> enough, but how
> hard is it replacing the head cover gasket on the left side?
> 
> I think you mean valve cover gasket?  It is more work than
> the right side because the aircon compressor & warm-up
> regulator are in the way among other things.  The only
> reason to remove valve covers is to do a valve lash
> adjustment or if you have a leaky one.  I suggest saving
> that for a separate project.  You will have disturbed enough
> already removing & replacing the intake manifold.  There
> isnt much advantage to doing both jobs at the same time.
> 
> > I had to cut the alternator belt to get it off, how do I
> get the new
> one on?
> 
> I'm sure you found the slotted lower bracket holding the
> alternator to the block.  You gotta loosen it at both ends.
> Also you may need to loosen the hinge bolt (that big bolt
> holding most of the alternator.  It's a 17mm).  If that is
> tight then it wont pivot to loosen the belt.  The aircon
> belt obstructs the alternator belt, so dont put them on in
> the wrong order.
> 
> > What size copper crush washers do I need to connect the
> fuel lines
> back to the distributor?
> 
> There are several sizes.  I think they call them by the
> diameter of the hollow bolt that goes inside of them, such
> as M10 for the smallest ones.
> 
> > Does anyone know how to wire the nology power core to the
> ignition
> system?
> 
> Nope.  But I'm curious to see it.
> 
> > Also it seems weird to me that you get the nice new plug
> wires and the power core but the coil wire is not upgraded.
> 
> Maybe they forgot to put it in the package?  A set of plug
> wires I got from PJ Grady had the coil wire barely long
> enough to fit without stretching it.  I have seen others
> come from vendors that were too long.
> 
> Sorry for all the questions, but I am also curious if anyone
> knows
> of any aftermarket cruise control kits that I can use on the
> car?
> 
> Check where the cruise control senses the speed.  Usually
> they stick a bunch of magnets on one of the half-axels and
> then suspend a wire coil next to it.  Sometimes the magnets
> are glued on.  Sometimes they are held on with a wire
> wrapped around.  Maybe someone lazy just relied on the
> magnetic force to hold them on.  They can shift, fall off,
> or maybe someone messed with an axle and didn't put it back
> on the same way that it came off.
> 
> > Thats all the questions I can think of for now.  Thank
> you!
> 
> Cool.  Vote Libertarian!  (Just a suggestion.  I'll still
> like you even if you vote communist, err, I mean socialist,
> oops, I mean democrap, uh, I mean democrat. ;-)  Republicans
> are basically equivalent to democrats only more
> conservative.  I can forgive you for being one of those too.
> 
> Walt

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