RE: [DMCForum] Re: Tuna Fish Tank Baffle

["John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Thanks for the support Bill. If you have a problem with the baffle then why
don't you let me know. Why would the strap brake if it was tightened down
and or not removed several times. Making it out of heavier material isn't
hard to do. But in trying to keep it in perspective to the original for
maximum baffle it has to flex to go in the tank.
If you have a problem with a product, then why don't you let the source know
so something can be done.
John Hervey

  -----Original Message-----
  From: content22207 [mailto:brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
  Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2004 9:43 PM
  To: DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
  Subject: [DMCForum] Re: Tuna Fish Tank Baffle


  I've got pics of the baffle itself on a roll of film I STILL need to
  shoot up (are pics of my carb adapter on there too). Will do so soon
  because I need to assist someone in California who's very close to
  carbureting their PRV -- the movement has begun.

  It's nearly identical to Hervey's baffle. Just a hair shorter and
  smaller diameter. Is of course made of heavier aluminum, and is solid.
  John's baffle is made from pop riveted flashing. Has no bottom. The
  thin straps that hold it to the tank stud break with time, leaving you
  with no baffling at all. His design is ingenious. Just poorly executed.

  Bill Robertson
  #5939

  >--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, DMCVIN6683 <dmcvin6683@xxxx> wrote:
  > Do you have a picture of your set-up, i am interested in seeing it?
  >
  > Mark V
  >
  >
  >
  > On Wednesday, July 28, 2004, at 10:22  PM, content22207 wrote:
  >
  > > My tank is identical to yours. A large size tuna fish can just barely
  > > fits through the opening. Is about 95% height and diameter of John
  > > Hervey's baffle (you have to squeeze his to get it in. Not hard to do
  > > because it's only made of aluminum flashing). One advantage of the can
  > > -- has a solid bottom. Does a much better job of holding sloshing fuel
  > > (that's why people still suck air with his -- the thing flops up &
  > > down, holding no fuel at all). Drill some 1/8" holes near the bottom
  > > so you don't exclude fuel when the tank level drops below the lip.
  > > Mine are 1/4" from the tank bottom.
  > >
  > > Bill Robertson
  > > #5939
  > >
  > >> --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "timnagin" <timnagin@xxxx> wrote:
  > >>> If your original baffle is in good condition then I suggest
  > >>> you keep using it.  I would expect any stale system to need
  > >>> a new suction hose, suction filter, fuel pump boot & cover.
  > >>> If you are on a budget then follow Bill Robertson's example
  > >>> with the tuna can.  I'm hardly above doing that myself.
  > >>
  > >>
  > >> The baffle is ok, but I might have messed up the screen when I was
  > > cleaning
  > >> the tank.  The suction hose was very soft and squishy, but
  > > everything else
  > >> was fine.  The fuel pump boot is ok, but the cover is ripped.  I
  would
  > >> rather wait and buy the good stuff, but I think the tuna can will
  > > not find
  > >> its way into my car :)
  > >>
  > >>
  > >>>> The pump had a plastic Bosch sticker on it that fell off in my
  hand,
  > >>>
  > >>> The new ones come that way for applications where it is
  > >>> mounted outside the tank with a strap.  I have heard about
  > >>> people having those clog the fuel suction screen.  You are
  > >>> lucky you caught it.  So are all the parts to your baffle
  > >>> system there?
  > >>>
  > >>> Walt
  > >>
  > >>
  > >> Can you define 'strap' without using the word 'on'?  ;)  Seriously,
  > > I don't
  > >> know of any strap that was on mine and the pump looked brand new.  I
  > > could
  > >> tell someone had been in there before, but it didn't seem recent.  I
  > > think
  > >> all of the baffle parts are there.  I will have to look again as it
  > > has been
  > >> many months since I had my hands in the tank.
  > >>
  > >> Greg
  > >
  > >
  > >
  > >
  > >
  > > Yahoo! Groups Links
  > >
  > >
  > >
  > >
  > >


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