--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "ryanpwright" <yahoo1@xxxx> wrote:
If
> you tell me to "adjust the clutch fork" I'll need to know what it
> looks like, where it is, and how to adjust it. ;)
>
> 1. Whining noise coming from rear. Only when car is in gear, and
> clutch is disengaged. Pitch varies with speed. Completely goes away
> above ~38mph. Does it in all gears.
A: The throw-out bearing is wearing out/lacking lubrication. It is not
re-packable with grease and should be replaced. This rides the
transmission input shaft.
>
> 2. "Metallic sound affected by changing in engine speed with the
> clutch pedal fully depressed." I've got this. This was explained in a
> D1 ad, Winter 2003 issue of DW magazine. Says, "Possible diagnosis:
> Rubbing on the diaphragm fingers in the area of contact with the
> clutch release bearing. Possible cause: Incorrect adjustment or
damage to the crossgate cable." Can anyone tell me what a crossgate
cable is and how to fix it?
A: The different positions on the stick are called "gates". The
crossgate cable controls the side-to-side adjustment of the shifter
across the gates. It's a simple matter to adjust but you have to be
under the vehicle and make SMALL adjustments. Do you find yourself
really pulling the stick hard to one side or the other to get into
1st/2nd or 5th?
>
> 3. I don't think the clutch releases fully. It shifts a little hard.
> From first to second at higher than 4k rpm usually grinds the gears.
> Shifting down into first while rolling, clutch fully engaged, is
> especially difficult - almost impossible. Sometimes double-clutching
> helps. Any thoughts?
A: Most people don't down-shift into first. I'm not positive on the
UN1, but 1st may not even be synchronized. 1st-2nd grinding @4k RPM is
definitely not right. I agree that the clutch may not be fully
disengaging.
1. Check fluid level. Check for leaks in the footwell where the shaft
pushes in on the master cylinder. If it's moist you have a weep, air
in the system and failing clutch hydraulics. Check the top of the
transmission bellhousing for wetness. If it's there, the slave
cylinder is leaking. Same results.
2. DOT 3 is wrong. Some folks say it doesn't matter. I say it does.
I've been told that non-synthetic fluids eat the rubber seals and if
yours are original, then they are about finished. If you don't have
leaks, flush it and install DOT 4, Castol GT LMA fluid or, Valvoline
Syntec Pro brake fluid. I've run both with favorable results.
3. If you're in a hot climate, and you have the old, rigid, plastic
clutch line, it becomes soft and expands causing the shifting symptoms
you've described. The expansion causes a loss of pressure that is
enough to prevent the clutch from fully disengaging.
4. To flush the system, get on top of the engine, or underneath the
car, and loosen the bleed screw on the slave cylinder. Yes, access is
a b!#&@. Use a small hose and a catch-cup and have a friend pump the
system dry with the pedal. The fluid is probably nasty and needs
replaced anyway. Use a tampon to swab out the resevoir (I'm not
joking). It will remove any particulate matter. Next, fill the
resevoir with DOT 4 as prescribed above and pump it ALL OUT, catching
it at the slave cylinder like you did earlier. Fill it again and just
bleed the system of air at the slave cylinder like you would bleed brakes.
Lastly before you begin, inspect the bleed screw on the slave
cylinder. No telling how long it's been since it was opened. Hit it
with some PB Blaster if it's gnarly. If you snap this off you'll be
pissed.
Oh, really lastly- If your hydralics are leaking or ruined, don't
fret. John Hervey sells beautifully rebuilt slave cylinders for around
$50.00 and if you're strapped for cash, you can buy a clutch master
cylinder rebuild kit for an '81 AMC Spirit for around $20.00 from
Advance auto and rebuild the master cylinder. If you have the cash to
waste, then get new units from Grady or Houston.
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