Make sure the coolant you put in has NO BORAX!! It will eat the
aluminum. The color is only used to identify the manufacturer.
Read the bottle. Make sure it doesn't say that it contains borax,
make sure it says "safe for aluminum engines".
Rich A.
--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Andrei Cular <andreic@xxxx> wrote:
> Don't worry about the color that is just for marketing, I have 2gal
of
> blue coolant and blue brake fluid sitting at home to put into my
car.
> The important thing is to make sure that it does not contain
phosphate.
> Phosphate will react with hard water and form scale inside your
engine.
> On old American cast iron engines this was a good thing to protect
it
> from rust and damage. However the non-phosphate coolants have
other
> rust and crosion inhibitors that are much more efficient.
>
>
> Andrei
>
>
> Dom Diaz wrote:
>
> >Is it safe to use the orange stuff if you are using the stock rad?
Thanks.
> >
> >Dom
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxx>
> >>Reply-To: DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >>To: <DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> >>Subject: Re: [DMCForum] Radiator replacement?
> >>Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 13:48:25 -0400
> >>
> >>When I replaced my radiator, I was redoing the a/c, so I
> >>took the condenser out with it. I ended up taking the sway
> >>bar completely off to have room. Can anyone say if there is
> >>enough room to only need to take the sway bar loose from the
> >>crumple tube? If you remove the sway bar completely, you
> >>may need to replace some bushings. The fasteners are all
> >>supposed to be torqued to spec with thread-locker. Get
> >>ready to find that the previous bozo cross-threaded the
> >>fasteners holding the sway bar brackets. It's a good idea
> >>to presoak all the fasteners with penetrating oil. The
> >>shroud is held in a few places with Rivnuts which can strip.
> >>
> >>The new brass radiator is a bit thicker which causes a
> >>clearance issue with the fan shroud. I had to cut deeper
> >>notches in the shroud to fit the ends of the crumple tube.
> >>The thicker radiator put the fans so far back that the
> >>blades were hitting the ends of the crumple tubes. I fixed
> >>this by mounting the fans with longer bolts & stacks of
> >>washers. It's not the neatest job, but it works. I intend
> >>to replace those power hungry old clunker fans with modern
> >>flat ones soon. The rusty brackets that go from the top of
> >>the radiator to the crumple tube will need to be reshaped to
> >>accommodate the thicker radiator.
> >>
> >>So did you have the privilege of experiencing the wonder
> >>taste of antifreeze? Yum! I think they should make it a
> >>Gator-Aid flavor. DPNW (Toby) also sells an extra radiator
> >>bleeder for the top line. I bought one at Pigeon Forge, but
> >>haven't used it yet.
> >>
> >>Be sure to use the old green variety of antifreeze. The new
> >>orange stuff is not compatible with lead based solder used
> >>in brass radiators & heater cores.
> >>
> >>Walt
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >_________________________________________________________________
> >Check out the latest news, polls and tools in the MSN 2004
Election Guide!
> >http://special.msn.com/msn/election2004.armx
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> Andrei Cular
> Mechanical Engineer
> Marine Concepts inc.
> www.marineconcepts.com
> P:239.283.0800 F:239.283.3332
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