[DMCForum] Re: very frustrated!! - starting problem

["Brian" <TK581@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Thanks for helping me press on.  I'm pretty determined to figure 
this out and if anything it gives people like me the benefit of 
learning the system a little at a time.  Never know - it may lead to 
being a DeLorean mechanic someday!

Well the battery is currently charging overnight so tomorrow I 
should be able to give it a crank.  Before that though I did a few 
tests.  It was suggested that I unplug the fuel pump at the plug and 
retest the 30/87 jumper.  I inserted the wire and there were no 
sparks or heat on the wire.  I guess this would suggest that the 
fuel pump is not the fault.  It shouldn't be seeing how it is brand 
new and recently installed and tested out fine.

I guess the next step would be to plug evrything in and give it a 
crank on a full battery (with and without the relay in place).  If 
it doesn't turn over witht he jumper then I should go about the 
starter fluid.  I'm a bit confused at this seeing how I never done 
that. Where exactly do I 'pump' the fluid in or ge the fluid?  SOrry 
if this sounds dumb but I never forced fluid into a vehicle to start 
it.

I appreciate the time and energy in this problem!!!

Brian
11280

--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> Brian,
> 
> You're getting there. 
> 
> You're killing the battery and it needs charged. I don't think you 
> have an ignition problem. Even though the voltage reads 11.8, 
that's 
> not under any load. You've been working with the doors open, 
courtesy 
> lights on and cranking for a while. It needs a boost. Not to 
mention, 
> who knows how old your battery is.
> 
> Yes, the relay gets warm during normal operation.
> 
> I don't advocte using a paperclip. It's pot-metal with poor 
> conducting qualities. Get a scrap of wire and crimp some male 
spades 
> on each end. Yes, sorry: pins 30 AND 87 of the RPM relay socket.
> 
> Dude, don't give up. This is a simple problem and I don't want to 
> hear that "I-need-a-professional" junk. That's cool if you own a 
> Toyota because there's a dealership around every corner. DeLorean 
> owners are more resourceful because -good- service like PJ Grady 
or 
> DMCH is a long way off. The last thing you need is a local grease 
> monkey dorking your car up worse than it already is.
> 
> You have indeed, likely isolated the RPM relay as the bad 
component.
> The pumps don't all make the same sound. I've heard many that are 
> more quiet than mine and it's only a year and a half old. If your 
> pump is buzzing then that's a good sound.
> 
> Next test: Make a -good- jumper out of some 22 or 20 (preferably 
20) 
> gauge wire and crimp some flat, male spade connectors on it. Get a 
> good charge on your battery. Jumper the RPM relay and try to start 
> the car. It should run. The Lambda system will be inoperative 
because 
> you're only jumpering the fuel pump part of the circuit. You can 
> drive like this but I don't recommend it.
> 
> If the car won't start, give it a shot of starting fluid. If it 
> starts, we're still working on a fuel issue. If it doesn't start 
> we'll work some more electrical issues.
> 
> Rich A.
> #5335
> 
> --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Brian" <TK581@xxxx> wrote:
> > Thanks,
> > 
> > For whatever reason I was able to redo the relay test you 
> prescribed 
> > earlier and got new results.  I assume 'buzzing' to life means 
that 
> > I can hear it?  I had the voltmeter hooked to the pump 
connectors 
> as 
> > I did the test.  With the relay in place the pump got no 
juice...it 
> > went down to 0.0.  with the paperclip in place at 30 and 87 I 
got 
> > sparks as well as a hot paper clip.  The voltmeter read a 
> consistent 
> > 7.5 at the pump.  Can I isolate this to the relay then?  Even 
so, 
> > the pump doesn't actually hum or anything.
> > 
> > Another thing I notice is that the car wont even bother to try 
and 
> > turnover.  I think my battery is going dead or do you think it 
> could 
> > be the coil?  I can't find the battery charger so I didn't get a 
> > chance to charge the battery up yet.
> > 
> > Thanks again!!
> > 
> > 
> > --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> > > Ah, good question. Sorry :)
> > > 
> > > At the inertia switch, you need to do a "continuity" check. 
The 
> > > ground wire from the fuel pump is black/purple, it goes to the 
> > > intertia switch. Clip one ohm meter probe to the ground wire 
on 
> > the 
> > > pump, then clip the other one to the black/purple contact on 
the 
> > > intertia switch plug. If it reads "open" your fuel pump is 
> > grounded 
> > > elsewhere and you need to find it. It's probably fallen off. 
If 
> it 
> > > reads "short" then the b/p wire is attached to the harness as 
it 
> > > should be.
> > > 
> > > Also, inspect the BLACK wire on the inertia switch plug to 
make 
> > sure 
> > > it's grounded properly. Just touch the one probe to the black 
> wire 
> > > contact and the other probe to the body or frame somewhere. 
> Again, 
> > > short=good, open/resistance=bad. If the pump is grounded at 
the 
> > > switch but the -switch- ain't grounded you'll still have the 
> > problem. 
> > > 
> > > Lastly, (regarding the inertia switch) remove and inspect the 
> > black 
> > > box. Look at the contacts. Is the plastic melted around them? 
The 
> > > older style were a point of failure. They were underrated. You 
> can 
> > > also put your ohm meter on the contacts and pull the plunger 
to 
> > make 
> > > sure it's operating properly. Plunger down= short. Plunger up= 
> > open. 
> > > This is the correct mode of operation.
> > > 
> > > I'm really pushing this grounding issue because you jumpered 
your 
> > RPM 
> > > relay and still only had 00.00 volts (flashing 7v). That 
clears 
> > the 
> > > relay from the problem. BTW, I think your jumper was probably 
> fine.
> > > 
> > > Oh hell, I just remembered. DeLoreans use the European habit 
of 
> > > switching grounds on and off, not power. Definitely follow the 
> > steps 
> > > above, but also jumper the RPM relay again, and measure for 
12v 
> on 
> > > the white/purple wire but do it with a ground OTHER than the 
> > ground 
> > > wire on the pump. Use the body or frame somewhere. 
> > > 
> > > If you have no voltage, go back to the inertia switch and 
touch 
> > > white/purple, and an independent ground again. (Frame/body).
> > > 
> > > If you have no voltage THERE, go back to the RPM relay and do 
it 
> > > again! Unplug the relay and touch W/P and an independent 
ground. 
> > The 
> > > seat belt mounting bolts make a good ground I think. You're 
> > tracing 
> > > the flow, finding the break in the pipe.
> > > 
> > > Electricity is just plumbing. Electrons flow instead of water 
and 
> > the 
> > > pipes are really tiny.
> > > 
> > > Post your findings when you can.
> > > 
> > > Rich A.
> > > #5335
> > > 
> > > --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Brian" <TK581@xxxx> wrote:
> > > > > Ok, two or three people have told you where the interia 
> switch 
> > is.
> > > > 
> > > > What exactly am I supposed to check here?  It's pluged in 
and 
> > it's 
> > > a 
> > > > black box... :)
> > > <snip!>

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