[DMCForum] Re: Fuel system updates - help!! long long long...

["EJ Chambers" <marmieej@xxxxxxxxx>]

Thanks for the info Rich! I will definitely look into this issue. See,
you learn something every day.

Ej

--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> Ej,
> 
> Hey, I've cross-referenced some parts at the local parts houses, but 
> fuel line from PepBoys? Are you trying to go out in a blaze of glory?
> 
> The main line (primary pressure) called out in the manual is 4.9-5.3 
> bars. A bar is 14.25 psi. That comes out to 71-ish psi. Higher than 
> your typical Volvo fuel system if the literature I read is correct.
> 
> Personally, I wouldn't run fuel line other than vendor approved but 
> I'm not here to lecture. Just be careful.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Rich
> 
> --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "EJ Chambers" <marmieej@xxxx> wrote:
> > Hey Walter:
> > 
> > "> That weaved thread is exposed because the original black
> > > vinyl(?) coating rotted & fell off."
> > 
> > That makes sense. My car sat for literally 20yrs so any plastic,
> > rubber that sat outside has become brittle. I did replace replace 
> with
> > fuel injection hose from Pep Boys. Due to many lines becoming 
> brittle
> > and hard (or missing), I've been using this line for awhile now 
> (with
> > hose clamps of course) with no problems. This includes on both
> > pressurized and non-pressurized lines.
> > 
> > ">I also would not trust any generic fuel injection
> > > hose because most of it is rated at a lower pressure than
> > > what the Bosch K-Jetronic uses."
> > 
> > I have to inquire at what pressure does the Bosch K-Jetronic operate
> > at? I would be very interested in knowing.
> > 
> > I personally have had great luck with the SpecialTAuto baffle. 
> > 
> > ">Anyway, the only real problem with it is
> > > that whatever glue/epoxy he used to attach a nipple the fuel
> > > suction screen got ate up by the fuel"
> > 
> > This issue did not exist on the baffle kit that I received. If this
> > did pose an issue at one point in time, it appears to have been
> > corrected. 
> > 
> > Just sharing my experiences. Thanks for the info!
> > 
> > Ej
> > 
> > 
> > --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> > > > I have been having hot start problems and then one night I
> > > was driving home and the car whinned in the front and
> > > started to convulse and buck all around.
> > > 
> > > Hi Brian,
> > > This could be from sucking air (low fuel or hole/tear in
> > > fuel suction hose).  Maybe the suction screen is clogged or
> > > rotted apart.  That would allow chunks to clog the pump.
> > > The hot start problem could be caused by junk lodged in the
> > > fuel pump's check valve keeping it open.  Or it could be
> > > caused by a bad accumulator or whatever.
> > > 
> > > > I'm also considering replacing the accumulator and perhaps
> > > the
> > > coil... just to update the system a bit.  Is this a good
> > > idea or not
> > > really neccessary?
> > > 
> > > Maybe.  If you do replace them, I suggest test-driving the
> > > car after each project.  Then if there is a problem with a
> > > new part, you have fewer things to suspect.  Replacing the
> > > original coil with something newer (provided it is a proper
> > > replacement) can make an improvement.
> > > 
> > > Replacing the accumulator is a really tough job.  You run
> > > the risk of kinking hard lines, not being able to properly
> > > attach new hoses, etc.  And when you cut loose the original
> > > hoses from the barbs, don't scratch the damn barbs with a
> > > razor.  It makes them more prone to leaks.  This is easily a
> > > project that may require you to order additional parts once
> > > you get into it.  A stubby set of wrenches is very useful.
> > > Also sometimes I use line wrench crow-foots (aka flair nut
> > > wrenches) on swivels & extensions just to get up in there.
> > > Rob Grady told me that he can heat & attach new hoses to the
> > > barbs while they are on the car.  My advice: don't try this
> > > at home.  It takes some practice to get good at attaching
> > > hoses even while the fittings are off the car.  This
> > > wouldn't be an issue if they sold hoses with new fittings,
> > > but some of the them are no longer available.
> > > 
> > > > Also, in the process the plastic gas line hose with weaved
> > > thread (or
> > > whatever it is) was broke in 3 different places.
> > > 
> > > Hi EJ,
> > > That weaved thread is exposed because the original black
> > > vinyl(?) coating rotted & fell off.
> > > 
> > > > Had to replace with fuel injection hose.
> > > 
> > > The only kind of replacement hose that I have liked so far
> > > is what PJ Grady sells.  It's very orange, though.  It goes
> > > on the same way as the original (have to heat it) & requires
> > > no hose clamps.  I would not trust any kind of hose clamp on
> > > the high pressure side of the fuel system (my personal
> > > bias).  I also would not trust any generic fuel injection
> > > hose because most of it is rated at a lower pressure than
> > > what the Bosch K-Jetronic uses.
> > > 
> > > > If you do go ahead and replace the pump, or hoses I would
> > > definitely
> > > recommend the new baffle unit sold by SpecialTAuto.
> > > 
> > > I've seen one of these before.  I forgot who's car it was
> > > in... Samuel's?  Anyway, the only real problem with it is
> > > that whatever glue/epoxy he used to attach a nipple the fuel
> > > suction screen got ate up by the fuel.  If you buy his
> > > baffle, I recommend asking first if he is aware of and
> > > corrected this problem.  If you're not on a tight budget, I
> > > suggest keeping the fuel baffle original.  The suction hose
> > > made by Ken K (sold by PJ Grady) is the best.  This way the
> > > fuel suction screen can touch the bottom of the tank.  This
> > > makes it less apt to suck air without transmitting fuel pump
> > > vibrations.  If the suction screen on the SpecialTAuto rig
> > > touches the bottom of the tank, a lot more vibration will be
> > > heard.  If it's too high then you won't be able to use all
> > > the fuel in the tank.
> > > 
> > > Fuel pump boots only last about 5 to 7 years of normal use.
> > > No one makes a boot that is worth a shit.  Of all that I've
> > > seen, I like Don Steger's boot & cover the best.  The boot
> > > cover that PJ Grady sells looks exactly like OEM, but it
> > > shrinks & turns rock hard in the presence of fuel vapors.
> > > 
> > > Walt

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