[DMCForum] Re: Fuel system updates - help!! long long long...
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[DMCForum] Re: Fuel system updates - help!! long long long...



Hey Walter:

"> That weaved thread is exposed because the original black
> vinyl(?) coating rotted & fell off."

That makes sense. My car sat for literally 20yrs so any plastic,
rubber that sat outside has become brittle. I did replace replace with
fuel injection hose from Pep Boys. Due to many lines becoming brittle
and hard (or missing), I've been using this line for awhile now (with
hose clamps of course) with no problems. This includes on both
pressurized and non-pressurized lines.

">I also would not trust any generic fuel injection
> hose because most of it is rated at a lower pressure than
> what the Bosch K-Jetronic uses."

I have to inquire at what pressure does the Bosch K-Jetronic operate
at? I would be very interested in knowing.

I personally have had great luck with the SpecialTAuto baffle.

">Anyway, the only real problem with it is
> that whatever glue/epoxy he used to attach a nipple the fuel
> suction screen got ate up by the fuel"

This issue did not exist on the baffle kit that I received. If this
did pose an issue at one point in time, it appears to have been
corrected.

Just sharing my experiences. Thanks for the info!

Ej


--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxx> wrote:
> > I have been having hot start problems and then one night I
> was driving home and the car whinned in the front and
> started to convulse and buck all around.
>
> Hi Brian,
> This could be from sucking air (low fuel or hole/tear in
> fuel suction hose).  Maybe the suction screen is clogged or
> rotted apart.  That would allow chunks to clog the pump.
> The hot start problem could be caused by junk lodged in the
> fuel pump's check valve keeping it open.  Or it could be
> caused by a bad accumulator or whatever.
>
> > I'm also considering replacing the accumulator and perhaps
> the
> coil... just to update the system a bit.  Is this a good
> idea or not
> really neccessary?
>
> Maybe.  If you do replace them, I suggest test-driving the
> car after each project.  Then if there is a problem with a
> new part, you have fewer things to suspect.  Replacing the
> original coil with something newer (provided it is a proper
> replacement) can make an improvement.
>
> Replacing the accumulator is a really tough job.  You run
> the risk of kinking hard lines, not being able to properly
> attach new hoses, etc.  And when you cut loose the original
> hoses from the barbs, don't scratch the damn barbs with a
> razor.  It makes them more prone to leaks.  This is easily a
> project that may require you to order additional parts once
> you get into it.  A stubby set of wrenches is very useful.
> Also sometimes I use line wrench crow-foots (aka flair nut
> wrenches) on swivels & extensions just to get up in there.
> Rob Grady told me that he can heat & attach new hoses to the
> barbs while they are on the car.  My advice: don't try this
> at home.  It takes some practice to get good at attaching
> hoses even while the fittings are off the car.  This
> wouldn't be an issue if they sold hoses with new fittings,
> but some of the them are no longer available.
>
> > Also, in the process the plastic gas line hose with weaved
> thread (or
> whatever it is) was broke in 3 different places.
>
> Hi EJ,
> That weaved thread is exposed because the original black
> vinyl(?) coating rotted & fell off.
>
> > Had to replace with fuel injection hose.
>
> The only kind of replacement hose that I have liked so far
> is what PJ Grady sells.  It's very orange, though.  It goes
> on the same way as the original (have to heat it) & requires
> no hose clamps.  I would not trust any kind of hose clamp on
> the high pressure side of the fuel system (my personal
> bias).  I also would not trust any generic fuel injection
> hose because most of it is rated at a lower pressure than
> what the Bosch K-Jetronic uses.
>
> > If you do go ahead and replace the pump, or hoses I would
> definitely
> recommend the new baffle unit sold by SpecialTAuto.
>
> I've seen one of these before.  I forgot who's car it was
> in... Samuel's?  Anyway, the only real problem with it is
> that whatever glue/epoxy he used to attach a nipple the fuel
> suction screen got ate up by the fuel.  If you buy his
> baffle, I recommend asking first if he is aware of and
> corrected this problem.  If you're not on a tight budget, I
> suggest keeping the fuel baffle original.  The suction hose
> made by Ken K (sold by PJ Grady) is the best.  This way the
> fuel suction screen can touch the bottom of the tank.  This
> makes it less apt to suck air without transmitting fuel pump
> vibrations.  If the suction screen on the SpecialTAuto rig
> touches the bottom of the tank, a lot more vibration will be
> heard.  If it's too high then you won't be able to use all
> the fuel in the tank.
>
> Fuel pump boots only last about 5 to 7 years of normal use.
> No one makes a boot that is worth a shit.  Of all that I've
> seen, I like Don Steger's boot & cover the best.  The boot
> cover that PJ Grady sells looks exactly like OEM, but it
> shrinks & turns rock hard in the presence of fuel vapors.
>
> Walt



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