[DMCForum] Re: Headlight switch

["cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

What you say rings true. I hear the relays click in behind me when I 
turn the lights on. I don't doubt what you're saying but how do the 
contacts in a sealed relay get dirty?

The headlight switch isn't sealed. Although it doesn't power the 
lights, wouldn't that kind of crud -anywhere- in the circuit cause a 
heat build up at the weakest point?

Also, if what you say is true, do you recommend that I replace my 
relays? I don't know how old they are.

Thanks,

Rich A.
#5335

--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxx> 
wrote:
> A common myth is that the headlight switch powers the lights - it 
> doesn't. The switch powers a pair of relays, one for sidelights, 
one for 
> headlights. The fuse is entirely seperate, electrically, from the 
> switch. The only thing that will directly affect the operation of 
the 
> switch, is the cleanliness of the contacts inside it. Heat is 
generated 
> where connections are dirty, so if the connections on the relays 
are 
> dirty, the relays, and their bases will get warm, not the switch.
> 
> We've found identical switches over here, but with different 
(square) 
> buttons. Not common though.
> 
> Martin
> 
> cruznmd wrote:
> 
> >Ok, I've fixed my headlight switch. (I was going to call Bill and 
do 
> >a "hazard transplant" but it wasn't necessary. Yes, the switch is 
a 
> >poor design. Here's what happened:
> >
> >As we all know (or should know) the fuses and fuse block contacts 
> >should be cleaned about once per year (another example of 
maintenance 
> >not normally done on other vehicles). The blades on my fuses and 
the 
> >fuse block contacts were -BLACK-. Some of the plastic fuse bodies 
> >were bloated from heat.
> >
> >Also, an area that no one thinks of: The sliding brass contacts in 
> >the headlight switch were green/brown with tarnish or corrosion. 
All 
> >of this corrosion causes impedence in the circuit which leads to a 
> >build-up of heat that melted the plastic slide rails in the switch 
to 
> >the sliding brass contacts "freezing" it in the "on" position. Not 
to 
> >mention that some people feel a heavier gauge of wire should have 
> >been used in production anyway.
> >
> >I used a dremel tool to carefully grind away the melted plastic 
and 
> >some fine, needle-nose pliers to carefully re-bend the brass 
sliding 
> >contact.
> >
> >The switch is "Torrix" brand if anyone wants to try to cross-ref 
by 
> >that.
> >
> >If you drive your car a lot, replace or clean your fuses annually. 
> >Use some emery paper and clean the fuse block contacts. This will 
> >help save your wiring and switches.
> >
> >Rich A.
> >#5335
> >
> >  
> >

---

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